Racing Cam/Semi/Hi cam?

ettm_14

500 RPM
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Jul 30, 2006
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Hey people,

I did some research on modifying cams-just some questions as this cannot be found in websites.

1. If we do change our camshafts to Racing or Hi cam, will it make the idling moody? This will of course encourage high FC right?

2. If we use semi racing instead of racing will the idling be more stable instead of going up and down?

3. I read that changing the camshafts only improves mid torque(sometimes) and high torque(most of the time) I wonder what can I do to improve on low end torque?Maybe for climbing?Crank shafts?

I am actually driving a Wira 4G15P Auto and as you guys know it is well known for lousy low torque(it is like hell when you climb up Genting even the gear is set at lowest). My mech told me the low acceleration could be due to my open pod K&N, but I beg to differ.

This is not acceptable as Proton claims it actually churns out at least 80bhp. Come on guys, don't say things like "Change engine lar" "Turbo 4g63T, or 4G93" It is not constructive for this discussion.

Thanks in advance yah people for the advice!!sorry if these question too simple-hehe...
 

seanlee

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Jun 30, 2004
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Hey people,

I did some research on modifying cams-just some questions as this cannot be found in websites.

1. If we do change our camshafts to Racing or Hi cam, will it make the idling moody? This will of course encourage high FC right?

2. If we use semi racing instead of racing will the idling be more stable instead of going up and down?

3. I read that changing the camshafts only improves mid torque(sometimes) and high torque(most of the time) I wonder what can I do to improve on low end torque?Maybe for climbing?Crank shafts?

I am actually driving a Wira 4G15P Auto and as you guys know it is well known for lousy low torque(it is like hell when you climb up Genting even the gear is set at lowest). My mech told me the low acceleration could be due to my open pod K&N, but I beg to differ.

This is not acceptable as Proton claims it actually churns out at least 80bhp. Come on guys, don't say things like "Change engine lar" "Turbo 4g63T, or 4G93" It is not constructive for this discussion.

Thanks in advance yah people for the advice!!sorry if these question too simple-hehe...
1. If we do change our camshafts to Racing or Hi cam, will it make the idling moody? This will of course encourage high FC right?
YES

2. If we use semi racing instead of racing will the idling be more stable instead of going up and down?
if you use semi/street/mild cam, your duration lift is reduce so just have slightly up and down ..which hardly to differentiate.

3. I read that changing the camshafts only improves mid torque(sometimes) and high torque(most of the time) I wonder what can I do to improve on low end torque?Maybe for climbing?Crank shafts?
No. changing camshaft actually improve wide range of powerband but also mest with adjustable cam pulley so that you can really fully utilize it, in order to have better TORQUE you have to PNP your engine and skim head create more compression just dun over do it, do not skim your flywheel also. By then it will increase 15%-20% of your current torque and power.

I am actually driving a Wira 4G15P Auto and as you guys know it is well known for lousy low torque(it is like hell when you climb up Genting even the gear is set at lowest). My mech told me the low acceleration could be due to my open pod K&N, but I beg to differ.
Normally i suggest my friend use K&N drop in instead of open pod...but since you have it..nvm..but 1st you need to separate it using heat shield so that your open pod do not suck in HOT air... also you need to do CAI(cold air intake) refer to DIY section for more cold air ...more oxygen i assume..
Second if you driving 3 gear auto, best you change to 4gear auto gearbox you can find it in chop shop..if you like auto car..but will cost alot.

as you know...alot ZTH forumer having monster in the car..that why most of them..advice you to transplant your engine..hahah...but nvm.. take your time to learn..it will gain alot of knowledge..
 

ettm_14

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Jul 30, 2006
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Thanks sean,
haha-yahlar...monsters...always kena cucuk on LDP...sien...all the turbos lar..
How much wil a PNP cost normally?any reliable mech you can intro in Klang valley?
sick of the climbing Sean-like tortoise...
 

seanlee

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Jun 30, 2004
382
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Thanks sean,
haha-yahlar...monsters...always kena cucuk on LDP...sien...all the turbos lar..
How much wil a PNP cost normally?any reliable mech you can intro in Klang valley?
sick of the climbing Sean-like tortoise...
normally PNP cost about RM300-1000 depend on the workmanship and reliable of it..
my car i done it in KL TRIAL tunning workshop TRIAL@OFFICIAL@WEB SITE i guess most of the forumer know ... it will cost about RM850 for basic without engine oil.... but i can nego for you if you interested to do there....abit far i guess hahaha...
 

handsomeboy

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seanlee, im driving a satria neo.. thinking of changing cams too... wat i need is pickup cuz campro's low end torque is horrible... so wat degree do u recommend? n i dont want my idling to go hairwire... thanks!!
 

neoblitz

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Jul 1, 2004
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1. If we do change our camshafts to Racing or Hi cam, will it make the idling moody? This will of course encourage high FC right?
YES
YES

2. If we use semi racing instead of racing will the idling be more stable instead of going up and down?
if you use semi/street/mild cam, your duration lift is reduce so just have slightly up and down ..which hardly to differentiate.
You might want to visit POWERZONE. They are specialize in Proton Mods.


3. I read that changing the camshafts only improves mid torque(sometimes) and high torque(most of the time) I wonder what can I do to improve on low end torque?Maybe for climbing?Crank shafts?
No. changing camshaft actually improve wide range of powerband but also mest with adjustable cam pulley so that you can really fully utilize it, in order to have better TORQUE you have to PNP your engine and skim head create more compression just dun over do it, do not skim your flywheel also. By then it will increase 15%-20% of your current torque and power.
This really depends on the mech that did the tuning by accommodating the adjustable cam pully and the cam you select.

To my exp, it can take up to days or even weeks to set up a car that is up to your own driving style.


I am actually driving a Wira 4G15P Auto and as you guys know it is well known for lousy low torque(it is like hell when you climb up Genting even the gear is set at lowest). My mech told me the low acceleration could be due to my open pod K&N, but I beg to differ.
Normally i suggest my friend use K&N drop in instead of open pod...but since you have it..nvm..but 1st you need to separate it using heat shield so that your open pod do not suck in HOT air... also you need to do CAI(cold air intake) refer to DIY section for more cold air ...more oxygen i assume..
Second if you driving 3 gear auto, best you change to 4gear auto gearbox you can find it in chop shop..if you like auto car..but will cost alot.

I would recommend you to try the K&N drop in and sell your open pod. I used to have a Wira 1.5 and when I install when I first got the car with an open pod (HKS) from my previous car. The power band completed drop and with bonus of extreme loud in air suction.

Try this, do a test drive of your current setting on the road and replace your open pod with original air filter. You should feel your low end will improve but your high end will be sluggish a little but still it will be better than open pod. Reason is that your ECU are not program for open pod filter and it will not self learn to provide more sparks and fuel as when you have more air.

Even for drop in will slightly drop your low end compares to your original air filter. But overall it increase your speed at mid range where you can achieve higher speed at shorter time.


Bottom line, I would suggest that you do the following mods to increase low end (if that is the aim you desired)
1) Crank Pulley (Mythelogy) - this will not increase much in HP but your this is help your low ends. You will feel that your is lighter by 50-100kg (one less passenger in your car)

2) Exhaust - To increase Low ends will need 4-1-1 but on the highway, you will not achieve very high speed. However, 4-2-1 piping will provide you a smooth speed climb.

3) Adj. Cam Pulley (Hotbits) - slightly advance the timing to provide more fuel for the initial push.

4) Try not to touch the cams or any internal PnP. It will not gives you a long lasting engine unless you want to be seen at workshop every other month. Then by all means go ahead :P~

5) When you have nothing else you could do. (No, I will not tell you change engine assuming after you have spent the money on the Mods). Consider to upgrade a good set of absorbers. It will help your car to grips better at the initial start up especially for Genting Hills.

Pls bare in mind that the all the above will only help to increase your pick up by 20% and HP will have at least 15HP.
 

seanlee

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seanlee, im driving a satria neo.. thinking of changing cams too... wat i need is pickup cuz campro's low end torque is horrible... so wat degree do u recommend? n i dont want my idling to go hairwire... thanks!!
hardly recomend you for a cam..but you can try 26x degree with loop design from MAtspeed, your car runing Siemens EMS700, so putting adjustable fuel pressure regulator and Hotbit adjustable cam pulley will ehlp much on the torque and yet which campro runing twin cam easy to adjust abit....wider powerband
maybe for more expertise you can logon to www.speedworks.com for some advice.Speedworks : The PERFORMANCE PARTS Specialist Hotbit project car..
 
Last edited:

seanlee

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Jun 30, 2004
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Bottom line, I would suggest that you do the following mods to increase low end (if that is the aim you desired)
1) Crank Pulley (Mythelogy) - this will not increase much in HP but your this is help your low ends. You will feel that your is lighter by 50-100kg (one less passenger in your car)

2) Exhaust - To increase Low ends will need 4-1-1 but on the highway, you will not achieve very high speed. However, 4-2-1 piping will provide you a smooth speed climb.

3) Adj. Cam Pulley (Hotbits) - slightly advance the timing to provide more fuel for the initial push.

4) Try not to touch the cams or any internal PnP. It will not gives you a long lasting engine unless you want to be seen at workshop every other month. Then by all means go ahead :P~

5) When you have nothing else you could do. (No, I will not tell you change engine assuming after you have spent the money on the Mods). Consider to upgrade a good set of absorbers. It will help your car to grips better at the initial start up especially for Genting Hills.

Pls bare in mind that the all the above will only help to increase your pick up by 20% and HP will have at least 15HP.
bro dun scare people lar...
1) Mythelogy lighten crank pulley, yes i`m using it Sponsor by Mythelogy...is good for pick up...very light pedal feel in 1st gear and 2nd gear...but the cranks pully only weight 1.5kg....where got such thing 50-100kg?.....

2) Exhaust - To increase Low ends (dude remember his car is auto) 4-2-1 is way to go but makeusre you muffler is s-flow..auto car need the back pressure alot..
4-1-1 mostly setup is for racing using for higher rev power....ofcouse same may said...got pick up..but then..4-1-1 can more pickup if you get a larger diameter piping design which flow more easy..then later will suffer...always do research or get consulting by workshop...on piping..otherwise you wasting your money or ask people feedback...there is no harm for asking

3) adjustable cam pulley ...make it advace is good...make sure done it nicely..not too advance

4) touching cam and PNP....is depend on how professional they have, normally i do it in reputable workshop in my Wira SE siemens .... use correct engine oil.. maintainence of you car is important althought didn`t do PNP....current my car still tip top condition for half year...compare to my friend car we get it the same day his car leaking, up and down, piston worn out....he is a polite driver ..i`m autocross racer..

5) correct...safety comes 1st...
 
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handsomeboy

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hey seanlee, thanks for the tips.. fyi, i alrady installed adjustable cam pulley n JFA full exhuast n open pod system... s now im just scouting around about the hi cam, probably end of this year then only i install it... got a few more quests to ask :

1. how bout 272 degree?? is it considered street or already full racing specs??

2. and like u say, fuel regulator is needed to gain max gain. but if i use a piggyback, will i get more gains??

thanks!!!
 

seanlee

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Jun 30, 2004
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hey seanlee, thanks for the tips.. fyi, i alrady installed adjustable cam pulley n JFA full exhuast n open pod system... s now im just scouting around about the hi cam, probably end of this year then only i install it... got a few more quests to ask :

1. how bout 272 degree?? is it considered street or already full racing specs??

2. and like u say, fuel regulator is needed to gain max gain. but if i use a piggyback, will i get more gains??

thanks!!!
1) 27x degree and above consider high cam..which bring you headache on idle.. trust me...you will not like it...unless you use piggyback or change the AXt ecu

2) Fuel regualtor is use to adjust alittle bit of more fuel .... stock ECU have it own fuel mapping as well..but also need to done up more perfect fine tune....anyway I heard Speedworks offering a good price for SAFC NEO with RM1.6k plus DYNO tune on the campro....but yet the gain was slightly 10% of your current HP...
 

ettm_14

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Jul 30, 2006
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thanks neoblitz...
I guess, yea there is alot of things have to learn and change...i also must have free flow of $$$
haha...great power comes with great responsibility

I think the most basic mod would be the crank right which will cost at least rm700-800 with installation.

I don't want to convert the engine because I might be buying a car soon-so wanna keep the car as it is...just wanna do some minor mod...

Anyone know the FC for Perdana V6>?I am looking at one-just resprayed-mileage arnd 150,000. Its is a end yr 2000 car. Lady driver. Selling at rm 30,000.So was wondering if i should get it-


Oh yah-to all taikos and sifus with turbo and powerfukl engine-got news stating that now LDP is no longer camera free-so in future don;t cucuk cucuk ya...haha

especially if you see a slow Wira at 140km/h no 3311-give face, don't tiong untill so near-just flick your lights, i will gladly move to the left lane...wahahha
 

GT_AUTO

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1. Exhaust - To increase Low ends will need 4-1-1 but on the highway, you will not achieve very high speed. However, 4-2-1 piping will provide you a smooth speed climb.
neoblitz,to increase low end,u need 4-2-1 not 4-1.4-1 is for high revving
race engine with good torque.4-2-1 is for low to mid range torque
while 4-1 is for high end power.that's y most car from factory comes
with cast 4-2-1 extractor.
 

handsomeboy

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seanlee, thanks for the info.. hmmmm, speedworks afc neo is 10% gain? that is okay la... oh ya, lets say i wanna use 272 degree, the idle will go hairwire right? so wat can i do to solve this prob? i heard one of unichip's function is idle control... so can i use it to control the idle?
 

neoblitz

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Hey ETM,

No prob. I drives a Gen2 manual and trust me the initial 1st and 2nd gear also can lost to Kancil 850 manual...sheesh.

Anyway...To Seanlee reply

bro dun scare people lar...
1) Mythelogy lighten crank pulley, yes i`m using it Sponsor by Mythelogy...is good for pick up...very light pedal feel in 1st gear and 2nd gear...but the cranks pully only weight 1.5kg....where got such thing 50-100kg?.....

Bro, not scare lar...just missed a word only...the crank pulley FYI is 700gm for Gen2 ....not sure for Wira. I said it feels that your CAR (missing word) is lighter by 50 - 100 kg. ....and not the crank pulley ler..:P

2) Exhaust - To increase Low ends (dude remember his car is auto) 4-2-1 is way to go but makeusre you muffler is s-flow..auto car need the back pressure alot..
4-1-1 mostly setup is for racing using for higher rev power....ofcouse same may said...got pick up..but then..4-1-1 can more pickup if you get a larger diameter piping design which flow more easy..then later will suffer...always do research or get consulting by workshop...on piping..otherwise you wasting your money or ask people feedback...there is no harm for asking

Oh shoot! I din see that ETM's car is auto...Muahaha... erm..well.....maybe it's good to NOT do any mods...:P LOL...you will need alot of $$$ to get the thing in the air dude..:P

3) adjustable cam pulley ...make it advace is good...make sure done it nicely..not too advance

I echo my own statements again and again! WOOHOO! I suggest to get it done at Speedworks ...coz they have done alot of the R&D for proton cars... it took them 30 mins to tune my car...

4) touching cam and PNP....is depend on how professional they have, normally i do it in reputable workshop in my Wira SE siemens .... use correct engine oil.. maintainence of you car is important althought didn`t do PNP....current my car still tip top condition for half year...compare to my friend car we get it the same day his car leaking, up and down, piston worn out....he is a polite driver ..i`m autocross racer..

Recommend to ETM ler...:)

5) correct...safety comes 1st...

All that I have said are done into my car ....and it's from 103.7 HP standard factory...to 124.7HP. For N/A ...its not bad I guess....
 

seanlee

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Jun 30, 2004
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seanlee, thanks for the info.. hmmmm, speedworks afc neo is 10% gain? that is okay la... oh ya, lets say i wanna use 272 degree, the idle will go hairwire right? so wat can i do to solve this prob? i heard one of unichip's function is idle control... so can i use it to control the idle?
bro just piece of advice..if you think you going to use your auto to mod, 1st thing..a tip top condition engine..2nd, get ATF cooler aswell...otherwise it will burn your gearbox
 

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