Modification of the NA engine

Andres

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let me start a thread
to all Brothers and Sisters

what we should upgrade for our engine and become a more power. U all can give ur solution or opinion of how to make a car faster with low budget or more expert modification. It is better we suggest for the NA engine, this is because turbo engine is too power already.... :tee:

Let me start for the 1st stage modification of the NA engine

1. ) Changing the ekzos system. (It will be cost u about 300-800) depend on the brand we choose.

2.) chaging a power air filter

all bro pls give the opinion of it, to some of our member may be need some help so that they can view on this thread...
 

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touchin outside of the engine will never get the picture of increasin hp
internal parts mod are the most extreme significant improvement for ur engine
 

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Ask yourself first... do u plan to move on the forced induction in 1 to 2 years? If so, leave it stock and save money. If not, do some light mods.
 

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Honestly turbo car's aern't really that hard 2 control once u get a hang of it... ands its really easy to get a fair sum of power without spending too much money.. where else playing with NA does has its advantages, but alot of money would be involve and the gain wouldn't be as much as turbo... BUT the satisfaction out of tuning up a NA is really cool.. depends on what you want...
 

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Dino@Casper said:
Honestly turbo car's aern't really that hard 2 control once u get a hang of it... ands its really easy to get a fair sum of power without spending too much money.. where else playing with NA does has its advantages, but alot of money would be involve and the gain wouldn't be as much as turbo... BUT the satisfaction out of tuning up a NA is really cool.. depends on what you want...
if turbo engine not so hard to manage.. can mind tell us dino@casper bro, wat is the best way to start/play with turbo?
get turbo engine.. bolt-on turbo.. or... wat other best ways ? :smile:
 

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nitrus said:
if turbo engine not so hard to manage.. can mind tell us dino@casper bro, wat is the best way to start/play with turbo?
get turbo engine.. bolt-on turbo.. or... wat other best ways ? :smile:
best way to start playing with turbo engine, since its made to be turbocharged from the start thus you save yourself potential headaches.

If you are after big horsepower, turbo is the only 'value for money' way to do it, and more drivable on the road. Why i say so? okay, lets look at 220hp 1.6liter engine, a turbocharged one that pumps 220hp is very normal and easy to drive on the road, while an NA version with 220hp will give you a hell lot of problem like stall engine during traffic jam, engine can't idle properly and not having any power at all at low rev, and to the extreme changing gear sometime might not be as smooth since with super light weight flywheel you'll not only be facing prob of stalling but also rev drop too fast if you shift too slow.

those who play with NA would know the pain of spending a few thousand for a couple of hoursepower and no matter how much you spend it is unlikely to double your car's horsepower while turbocharged engine owner would be able to get few times the power from teh stock just by giving it more boost.

oh ya, one thing before i forgot, the "g-force" you feel when acceleration depends more on the torque than the horsepower. you can mod and mod and mod an NA engine and see the horsepower rating goes up but in reality the mods just increase the torque by a little bit and shift the powerband upward the rev range and as a result give higher HP. HP is useful to run fast in a track but not really the whole case if you are talking about the street. 4age for example, stock one comes with about 15kg-m of torque, and the highest torque i've seen from a 4ag is about 19.6kg-m, thats about 30+% increase from the stock, and it won't make power under 6000rpm. According to some other forum i've participate in, they haven't seen a single NA engine in the world
make more than 89lb-ft of torque per litter

on the other hand turbocharged give alot more power with alot less money...
 

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Hi, maybe u might wanna try out performance cams if u r planning to stick to your current engine, or u might wanna consider an engine transplant n go turbo instead. The choice is up to u... Just my 2 cents... :smile:
 

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Here's a common way of upgrading an NA engine, although in a general way and not specific to any model and do not need to be strictly followed:

1. Good lubricant, less friction means more power.

2. Intake and exhaust, note that drop in filter is better for light mod since open pod/cone filter draws in hot air = less power, unless your car is for track racing where it move fast enough to ram cold air in your engine bay everytime or you can afford cold air intake system.

3. Adjustable cam pulley. can adjust for predictable power, but if you have variable cam timing, might as well leave it, better for everyday driving.

4. mild cams, extra power with stock ecu.

5. use lightened flywheel

6. go for aftermarket programable ecu, and throw in racing cam inside, as high as you can accept.

7. rebuild and balance the whole engine, do a 3 angle valve job or 5 angle one, port and polish the head.

8. do anything to increase your compresion ratio, but with malaysian's ron97 fuel i don't see too much increasement in power without suffering from knocking :D

thats about the general stuff you can do with your engine, other performance gain that do not have anything to do with the engine would be:
-use a good clutch system
-if you got the money and willing to learn, get a dog engagement gearbox
-use smaller size/lighter/balanced rim
-basically make your car have better power to weight ratio..

well, hope that helps...
 

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Fastest car F1 running on NA.Not turbo.Yes turbo easy to get hp by modifying a bit meanwhile for NA,tons of money haf to spend just to get a slight increase in hp.But maintenance for turbo is way to higher than maintaining a NA.
 

Dino@Casper

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Civic-R said:
Fastest car F1 running on NA.Not turbo.Yes turbo easy to get hp by modifying a bit meanwhile for NA,tons of money haf to spend just to get a slight increase in hp.But maintenance for turbo is way to higher than maintaining a NA.
Now now.. the F1 car's design is very very different from our daily car.. its only meant to last for 2 races.. nothing more for the time being.. previously the engine's were replace every single race... So under such condition the tolerence of the shafts and bearings use in F1 are the lightest and yet would be most efficent... Where else in our daily car.. the engines are design to lets say let your car run even though u haven't service ur engine for more than half a year..

So you cannot take a race car to compare with a normal street car... Now for another big big misconception.. Maintaining a turbo isn't any much more expensive than ur normal NA.. let me take for instance.. if u are driving a same class of cars.. erm... maybe an EVO compare with a Fairlady.. both cars would need good braking systems.. therefore the price of the pads would be the same.. as for the usage of engine oils... during normal service a fairlady would need about 5l of engine oil where else the evo would only use 4.5l .. so you see other than the fact one is a turbo one is not.. there isn't really gonna be much difference in the maintaining the car..

And on the part about the cooling system on the engine, if u upgrade ur car.. even if its a turbo or na, when you tune ur engine u get better combustion.. and if you do love to high rev.. what kind of engine would also benefit from better cooling system... turbo non turbo also important..
 
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Andres

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yalah, if really wan to increase HP in easy way is TURBO. BUt, the turbo car compare to our daily car the maintannace is more high? example like: fuel combustion , turbo kit spoiled, intercooler problem... etc. all also is only turbo car have... so??? pls advice
 

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Andres said:
yalah, if really wan to increase HP in easy way is TURBO. BUt, the turbo car compare to our daily car the maintannace is more high? example like: fuel combustion , turbo kit spoiled, intercooler problem... etc. all also is only turbo car have... so??? pls advice
yes but that's only the case if you torture your car and not taking care of it properly.

turbo fuel consumption can be low if you don't rev it/lap all the time since if the turbo didn't kick in it uses way less fuel. Turbo will hardly spoil if you take good care of it and not abuse it. about the intercooler, i've not had any turbo car before, but the only problem i've heard about so far is those front mount i/c got damaged by flying chips of stones :D
 

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Fuel comsumption is actually lower if u drive on highways and dun always floor.. intercooler problem all those can be solve with a good mechanic.. as long he knows what he is doing.. all this shouldn't have any problem

Honestly if u trash ur NA engine.. the bill would be just as bad as ur turbo car's repair bill man.. trust me been there..
 
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bcteh

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With this kind of mod, I would advice him to do engine transplant ....much cheaper.


rollakid said:
Here's a common way of upgrading an NA engine, although in a general way and not specific to any model and do not need to be strictly followed:

1. Good lubricant, less friction means more power.

2. Intake and exhaust, note that drop in filter is better for light mod since open pod/cone filter draws in hot air = less power, unless your car is for track racing where it move fast enough to ram cold air in your engine bay everytime or you can afford cold air intake system.

3. Adjustable cam pulley. can adjust for predictable power, but if you have variable cam timing, might as well leave it, better for everyday driving.

4. mild cams, extra power with stock ecu.

5. use lightened flywheel

6. go for aftermarket programable ecu, and throw in racing cam inside, as high as you can accept.

7. rebuild and balance the whole engine, do a 3 angle valve job or 5 angle one, port and polish the head.

8. do anything to increase your compresion ratio, but with malaysian's ron97 fuel i don't see too much increasement in power without suffering from knocking :D

thats about the general stuff you can do with your engine, other performance gain that do not have anything to do with the engine would be:
-use a good clutch system
-if you got the money and willing to learn, get a dog engagement gearbox
-use smaller size/lighter/balanced rim
-basically make your car have better power to weight ratio..

well, hope that helps...
 

Andres

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to all sifu, u all said is correct also, but however, u can post all the modification regarding the turbo or NA engine modification, let all of us also can refer to!!! :tee:
 

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bcteh said:
With this kind of mod, I would advice him to do engine transplant ....much cheaper.
you mean transplat to a turbocharged engine? well yes, you can get all the power of the NA mod with a fraction of the cost by playing with turbo, but you will never get the satisfaction of squizing out every last hp out of that NA engine :D

how i wish there isn't any roadtax... so i can drive around in a 6 liter V8 everyday..
 

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"8. do anything to increase your compresion ratio, but with malaysian's ron97 fuel i don't see too much increasement in power without suffering from knocking"

I don't have any problems running on local fuel with 11.9 compression. It's all in the mapping but some Afterburn helps too..
 

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llsaw said:
"8. do anything to increase your compresion ratio, but with malaysian's ron97 fuel i don't see too much increasement in power without suffering from knocking"

I don't have any problems running on local fuel with 11.9 compression. It's all in the mapping but some Afterburn helps too..
yes i do know that, tho i've only heard about 11.5 before, so thanks for your info :D but you can't deny that having low octane fuel is robbing precious horsepower especially for NA engine.
 

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97 octane is low, suitable for on the road use only. If you have more than 11+ compression and high ignition, engine will knock like crazy.
 

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ron97 compare to US sure not low lar.. but compare to the rest of the more developped country sure on the lower side. me still dreaming of pumping 100 octane fuel in petrol station...
 

V8_nutter

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llsaw said:
"8. do anything to increase your compresion ratio, but with malaysian's ron97 fuel i don't see too much increasement in power without suffering from knocking"

I don't have any problems running on local fuel with 11.9 compression. It's all in the mapping but some Afterburn helps too..
If you're running 11.9 and engine is in "safe" condition meaning that your setup is "mild". Im running that compression wif avgas only, cause even V Power will knock like hell.
 

V8_nutter

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rollakid said:
ron97 compare to US sure not low lar.. but compare to the rest of the more developped country sure on the lower side. me still dreaming of pumping 100 octane fuel in petrol station...
If you feel 97 ron is OK, meaning your engine setup is mild.
 

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"If you're running 11.9 and engine is in "safe" condition meaning that your setup is "mild". Im running that compression wif avgas only, cause even V Power will knock like hell"

Oops.. this probably means that your mapping is incorrect with too much advance or your dynamic compression is too high from running too small a cam profile/ports or your combustion chamber profile is inefficient with too much hot spots. My setup is as "mild" as 11.9 compression, 292/288 cams and race ported cylinder head with 180+bhp will allow me. Also if you're running a 4G93P head and inlet manifold you might want to disable the EGR along with the EGR code on the ECU as this will cause pinging at light throttle/cruising loads due to dilution of the intake combustion mixture.
 

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llsaw said:
"If you're running 11.9 and engine is in "safe" condition meaning that your setup is "mild". Im running that compression wif avgas only, cause even V Power will knock like hell"

Oops.. this probably means that your mapping is incorrect with too much advance or your dynamic compression is too high from running too small a cam profile/ports or your combustion chamber profile is inefficient with too much hot spots. My setup is as "mild" as 11.9 compression, 292/288 cams and race ported cylinder head with 180+bhp will allow me. Also if you're running a 4G93P head and inlet manifold you might want to disable the EGR along with the EGR code on the ECU as this will cause pinging at light throttle/cruising loads due to dilution of the intake combustion mixture.
FYI my mapping is correct and im running high ignition with "maximum" advance possible (aka drag setup). Im not running 4g93p head and im not running that inlet as well, im on mivec head wif fabricated 4 throttle. No point you running 288/292 with mild ignition and safe mapping, dont make sense to me. Disable the EGR code ?? what wiring do you mention ? im not using stock wirings.
 
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V8_nutter

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llsaw said:
Unless your engine setup warrants it, running too high an octane fuel actually will at best result in no increase in power and at worse cause you to lose power. A fuel with a higher octane reading is often more difficult to combust efficiently.
Low octane might suits your engine though, it wont suits mine. From 4000 rpm onwards, it will knocks like hell, suitable for low cam but not for my high lift cam.
 

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You talking about hot spot, sometimes these things you can't avoid. What we can do is to minimize it, if your target is to win races you will tend to have a "lean" fuelling setup wif almost maximum ignition available, then to compensate this only race fuel can do.
 

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What V8_nutter is tuning the engine for maximum power with excessive advance ignition which will not be applicable for street use. Hence you will find 97 or even 100 octane fuel is low. Of course with high racing octane fuel you can run higher compression, more advance ignition and more boost if turbo. But it just not practical for a daily street driven car. Like a friend i know running 4G63 big turbine for daily use at 1bar on 92 octane pump gas. then on the dragstrip with a flick of a switch the whole fuel + ignition mapping change to 1.6 bar but this setup can only be use with full high octane drag fuel only!!

LLsaw's car is a Daily Driven putra running high static 11.9 compression with high overlap cams which reduces dynamic compression. He's car is properly tune and map for our regular 97 octane gas churning out all possible maximum power with his setup. So when a car can run properly with 97 octane does not mean it is not tune maximum!!!

So if it is a street daily driven car, and the car pink or knock, then it is definitely that the car is NOT TUNE properly to be daily driven for 97 octane! Just simple as that. Track and race car is total different ball game.

The Honda B18C-R engine, even stock is 11.0 compression, and I'm sure many members are running fine on regular 97 oct gas.

The MME race spec B18C-R engine are slightly higher at 11.2 to 11.5 comp, and it had no problem running on 97 oct for 12 hours non-stop race! The MSS race spec B18C-R engine are even higher at 12 to 12.5 comp with high overlap cams doing perfectly fine on 97 oct gas for short race!! It boils down how you tune and map your fuel + ignition on ECU for the 97 gas you using and the appropriate use of the car.
 

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Don't know what's a drag setup? Drag engines usually last 1-2 races before complete teardown and really not a good benchmark. Likewise the cooling of the engine is not up to it as the engine barely gets hot enough with heat soak in a 400m run. Static ignition should be left at 5 deg BTDC with dynamic advance depending on your engine setup and of course engine load. You control the dynamic advance via your ECU maps. On an engine with big profile cams giving a lot of overlap and with big ports bleeding off dynamic compression the static compression ratio should be increase else you will lose low end power.

Static compression ratio = measured compression when engine is not running
Dynamic compression = compression of the engine when the engine is running.

You can get by relatively high compression if you run big cams. That is the way to go. If you're pinging you're most likely running lean or you have inadequate cooling of the intake charge. Having an airbox with CAI setup or better still water injection into your inlet manifold will help in this aspect.
 

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llsaw said:
Don't know what's a drag setup? Drag engines usually last 1-2 races before complete teardown and really not a good benchmark. Likewise the cooling of the engine is not up to it as the engine barely gets hot enough with heat soak in a 400m run. Static ignition should be left at 5 deg BTDC with dynamic advance depending on your engine setup and of course engine load. You control the dynamic advance via your ECU maps. On an engine with big profile cams giving a lot of overlap and with big ports bleeding off dynamic compression the static compression ratio should be increase else you will lose low end power.

Static compression ratio = measured compression when engine is not running
Dynamic compression = compression of the engine when the engine is running.

You can get by relatively high compression if you run big cams. That is the way to go. If you're pinging you're most likely running lean or you have inadequate cooling of the intake charge. Having an airbox with CAI setup or better still water injection into your inlet manifold will help in this aspect.
Drag setup = maximum everything without thinking much of reliabity. We dont use big overlap cams for drag, we use high lift so that's the difference. FYI we running 4 throttle meaning that "airbox" is irrelevant.

llsaw,, running lean makes the "most" horsepower if you really want to know.
 

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chris2000 said:
What V8_nutter is tuning the engine for maximum power with excessive advance ignition which will not be applicable for street use. Hence you will find 97 or even 100 octane fuel is low. Of course with high racing octane fuel you can run higher compression, more advance ignition and more boost if turbo. But it just not practical for a daily street driven car. Like a friend i know running 4G63 big turbine for daily use at 1bar on 92 octane pump gas. then on the dragstrip with a flick of a switch the whole fuel + ignition mapping change to 1.6 bar but this setup can only be use with full high octane drag fuel only!!

LLsaw's car is a Daily Driven putra running high static 11.9 compression with high overlap cams which reduces dynamic compression. He's car is properly tune and map for our regular 97 octane gas churning out all possible maximum power with his setup. So when a car can run properly with 97 octane does not mean it is not tune maximum!!!

So if it is a street daily driven car, and the car pink or knock, then it is definitely that the car is NOT TUNE properly to be daily driven for 97 octane! Just simple as that. Track and race car is total different ball game.

The Honda B18C-R engine, even stock is 11.0 compression, and I'm sure many members are running fine on regular 97 oct gas.

The MME race spec B18C-R engine are slightly higher at 11.2 to 11.5 comp, and it had no problem running on 97 oct for 12 hours non-stop race! The MSS race spec B18C-R engine are even higher at 12 to 12.5 comp with high overlap cams doing perfectly fine on 97 oct gas for short race!! It boils down how you tune and map your fuel + ignition on ECU for the 97 gas you using and the appropriate use of the car.
Running 12.5 comp wif 97 octane ?? horsepower must be down, not maximum enough. Perhaps suitable for track race.
 

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""Drag setup = maximum everything without thinking much of reliabity. We dont use big overlap cams for drag, we use high lift so that's the difference. FYI we running 4 throttle meaning that "airbox" is irrelevant.

llsaw,, running lean makes the "most" horsepower if you really want to know.""


Running 4 throttle doesn't mean an airbox is irrelevant eventhough it is meant for racing only. Have you seen that many race cars in Europe that runs Individual Throttle Body (ITB) aka 4 throttle for 4-cylinder engine, many have custom airbox made out of fiberglass or carbon fiber with a hose ducting cold fresh air from the outside. This is because the cooler the air the More Hosepower and also to reduce intake temp which in turns reduce ping/knock in an engine.

And who doesn't know that running a car lean will give more horsepower. There is only that small limit and margin of error, before high horsepower with ZERO reliability happens. That is why there is so many JUNK yard shop to sell you engine kosong when blow engine or melt a piston!! And mind you, I think "DRAG Setup = maximum power without thinking reliability" is rubbish! Every Drag car want to achieve highest power but not wanting it to blow at the drag strip! Don't tell me you built drag engines without thinking reliability and expect that it will blow during drag race.


""Running 12.5 comp wif 97 octane ?? horsepower must be down, not maximum enough. Perhaps suitable for track race.""

Like I said earlier the car is tune for max horsepower for 97 octane gas. So how to say horsepower is down and not maximum. Official sanctioned circuit race in Malaysia only allows 97 octane like a normal road car. Hence car is tune to maximum for use with 97 octane.

Of course if we were running some 100 octane or F1 or A1 race fuel, the tuning of the engine will be different to maximise more horsepower from these type of racing fuel.

What I am just trying to point out is that, No Matter What type of Fuel you are using, you will still be able to tune for MAXimum Power without knocking and pinging if the tuner has done everything right.
 

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Yes but running too lean also raise the temp to beyond acceptable levels. It's all in the compromises.

High lift cams will also bleed off the dynamic compression. Most NA big cams are high lift and also high duration.

Prooperly implemented individual throttle bodies or as you call it 4 throttle or 6 throttle or 8-12 throttle depending on how many cylinders you have do utilize carefully ducted airboxes and piping. Just check on the BTCC engines from previous years (before the single TB regulation) or even any modern NA race engine. One good drag example would be the latest Skunk2 racecars but those are probably running close to or more than 16.0:1 compression. If yours is filterless or running on sock-type filters and sucking in the hot air.. Oh well.. looks fierce though ;)

So irregardless of what a one race 400 m drag setup you want to use which is probably out of scope for 99% of the ZTH forumners, the original point is that 97 octane is ok for a high compression engine if you map and setup your engine carefully. And yes.. a higher compression engine running on this petrol will make more power than one with lesser compression again provided the parameters and engine mapping is optimum. There are however limits to the compression you can run with 97 octane petrol before all this becomes a waste of exercise and this exact figure depends on which tuner you speak too as the engine combination and setups are frankly endless..
 
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Oh yes, forget to add. When I say high overlap cams doesn't necessary means it is a low lift cams. Like the 12.5 compression honda engine was running high overlap engines with 12.5" Lift and 300 Duration. If this is not high then I don't know what is..
 

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chris2000 said:
""

Running 4 throttle doesn't mean an airbox is irrelevant eventhough it is meant for racing only. Have you seen that many race cars in Europe that runs Individual Throttle Body (ITB) aka 4 throttle for 4-cylinder engine, many have custom airbox made out of fiberglass or carbon fiber with a hose ducting cold fresh air from the outside. This is because the cooler the air the More Hosepower and also to reduce intake temp which in turns reduce ping/knock in an engine.

And who doesn't know that running a car lean will give more horsepower. There is only that small limit and margin of error, before high horsepower with ZERO reliability happens. That is why there is so many JUNK yard shop to sell you engine kosong when blow engine or melt a piston!! And mind you, I think "DRAG Setup = maximum power without thinking reliability" is rubbish! Every Drag car want to achieve highest power but not wanting it to blow at the drag strip! Don't tell me you built drag engines without thinking reliability and expect that it will blow during drag race.

I totally agree with chris2000 on these.
 

V8_nutter

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V8_nutter

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chris2000 said:
""Drag setup = maximum everything without thinking much of reliabity. We dont use big overlap cams for drag, we use high lift so that's the difference. FYI we running 4 throttle meaning that "airbox" is irrelevant.

llsaw,, running lean makes the "most" horsepower if you really want to know.""


Running 4 throttle doesn't mean an airbox is irrelevant eventhough it is meant for racing only. Have you seen that many race cars in Europe that runs Individual Throttle Body (ITB) aka 4 throttle for 4-cylinder engine, many have custom airbox made out of fiberglass or carbon fiber with a hose ducting cold fresh air from the outside. This is because the cooler the air the More Hosepower and also to reduce intake temp which in turns reduce ping/knock in an engine.

And who doesn't know that running a car lean will give more horsepower. There is only that small limit and margin of error, before high horsepower with ZERO reliability happens. That is why there is so many JUNK yard shop to sell you engine kosong when blow engine or melt a piston!! And mind you, I think "DRAG Setup = maximum power without thinking reliability" is rubbish! Every Drag car want to achieve highest power but not wanting it to blow at the drag strip! Don't tell me you built drag engines without thinking reliability and expect that it will blow during drag race.


""Running 12.5 comp wif 97 octane ?? horsepower must be down, not maximum enough. Perhaps suitable for track race.""

Like I said earlier the car is tune for max horsepower for 97 octane gas. So how to say horsepower is down and not maximum. Official sanctioned circuit race in Malaysia only allows 97 octane like a normal road car. Hence car is tune to maximum for use with 97 octane.

Of course if we were running some 100 octane or F1 or A1 race fuel, the tuning of the engine will be different to maximise more horsepower from these type of racing fuel.

What I am just trying to point out is that, No Matter What type of Fuel you are using, you will still be able to tune for MAXimum Power without knocking and pinging if the tuner has done everything right.
You can't have ultra high ignition wif 97 octane, as simple as that. Can you max out your ignition wif that octane ?? can you boost out till 2.2 wif that octane ?? Dont be silly.

11.9 can be raise more wif thinner gaskets, we get that number wif a thicker 2 peice gaskets. If im using thinner 2 peice one, can 97 ron deal wif it ?? (wif ultra high ign). We use to play compression until it nearly maxed out (more than 13, 14) wif 83 piston & capalang sleeve using AMOIL race fuel, but still ignition cannot be max out. So youre saying 97 ron can maxed out horsepower ?? think again.

Of course we want to protect our engine from blowing, but once you lighten every single parts in engine, it's not reliable anymore. Track racing is different, engine setup also different, that's why track car is not quick compare to the drag setup. You can check 2.0 litre VTEC track car compare to 2.0 drag machine. Engine setup is completely different, i dont want to explain more, if you notice the different than you will know.

If you think that "engine" setup between drag and track are similar, than youre in lost lah.
 
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V8_nutter

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V8_nutter

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llsaw said:
Yes but running too lean also raise the temp to beyond acceptable levels. It's all in the compromises.

High lift cams will also bleed off the dynamic compression. Most NA big cams are high lift and also high duration.

Prooperly implemented individual throttle bodies or as you call it 4 throttle or 6 throttle or 8-12 throttle depending on how many cylinders you have do utilize carefully ducted airboxes and piping. Just check on the BTCC engines from previous years (before the single TB regulation) or even any modern NA race engine. One good drag example would be the latest Skunk2 racecars but those are probably running close to or more than 16.0:1 compression. If yours is filterless or running on sock-type filters and sucking in the hot air.. Oh well.. looks fierce though ;)

So irregardless of what a one race 400 m drag setup you want to use which is probably out of scope for 99% of the ZTH forumners, the original point is that 97 octane is ok for a high compression engine if you map and setup your engine carefully. And yes.. a higher compression engine running on this petrol will make more power than one with lesser compression again provided the parameters and engine mapping is optimum. There are however limits to the compression you can run with 97 octane petrol before all this becomes a waste of exercise and this exact figure depends on which tuner you speak too as the engine combination and setups are frankly endless..
Eventhough im using airbox to get cold air, it still wont prevent knocking. Maybe very "slightly" only.