Is oil cooler necessary?

[Veloc]

Guys...

I am contemplating whether or not to put an oil cooler. If possible, I do not want to add to many things if unecessary. Don't want to spend unnecessary money as a proper oil cooler is not cheap.

I am planning to use a spark plug that is just ONE "1" heat range colder. Since it will dump more heat to the oil, the oil will be hotter and possibly thinner i guess? Since it is just one heat range colder, is it possible to not use an oil cooler? Will it reduce the oil viscosity/lubrication? Will it be dangerous or bad for the engine?

thanks...

 

[cvkit17]

Before that you gotta know a few items:

1. What is the recommended lubricant for your engine? What is the viscosity?
2. At what temperature gives the best lubrication if you use that specific oil?
3. What is the optimum temperature of your engine to run at its most efficient state?
4. How / where do you drive the car? Revvvvvv hard, always jam, or just cruising?

All these give an idea on how your engine performs. And then get the best temperature out of it. Put in mind that a cooler engine does not mean better efficiency or more power. It has to be at an optimum state. And if you are driving a not-so-heavily-modded-engine, I suggest you drop the idea. Try getting lower temperature for the engine components instead like air intake, air conditioning system, electronics, etc.

 

[Izso]

2. At what temperature gives the best lubrication if you use that specific oil?

All engine oils run at optimum viscosity at hundred degrees Celsius. That's the weight indication viscosity number no?


Veloc dude : I have my oil temp running at 92 to 95 degrees Celsius at most on normal daily stop-start drive. Highway I might touch 100 if I'm cruising above 3k rpm. At Sepang I hit 120 degrees Celsius. 120 isn't ideal and probably will evaporate some oil (mine didn't. Good oil mah) so if you're hitting the track super often, you'll probably do well to have an oil cooler. If you're driving everywhere within city limits don't bother la. Oil cooler also means the engine takes longer to reach optimum temperature which isn't really ideal.

---------- Post added at 01:52 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:51 PM ----------

why not get yourself an oil temp meter if you're worried?

 

[vr2turbo]

Oil cooler needed if you are already turbo charged. Using 1 number colder for plugs you have to increase you engine power by at least 75bhp, if not no point. My standard turbo still runs on standard No:6 only....

 

[mADmAN]

take note that oil coolers will cause ur oil pressure to drop. one reason why i havent installed one yet even though im planning on tracking as much as possible this year.

some oil coolers come with thermostat to prevent oil pressure drop, but itll still drop once the thermostat opens...although not that long..upgrading oil pump is also an option. and oil coolers with thermostats are expensive... theres the M7 for sale here in this forum oso going about 1.5-1.7k iinm....ive found used oso around 800.

 

[Veloc]

Before that you gotta know a few items:

1. What is the recommended lubricant for your engine? What is the viscosity?
2. At what temperature gives the best lubrication if you use that specific oil?
3. What is the optimum temperature of your engine to run at its most efficient state?
4. How / where do you drive the car? Revvvvvv hard, always jam, or just cruising?

All these give an idea on how your engine performs. And then get the best temperature out of it. Put in mind that a cooler engine does not mean better efficiency or more power. It has to be at an optimum state. And if you are driving a not-so-heavily-modded-engine, I suggest you drop the idea. Try getting lower temperature for the engine components instead like air intake, air conditioning system, electronics, etc.

1. 10w40
2. 95 deg celsius
3. 82 - 95 deg celsius
4. City drive 80%, jam 12%, cruising 6%, rev & fun 2%.

Advise back?

All engine oils run at optimum viscosity at hundred degrees Celsius. That's the weight indication viscosity number no?


Veloc dude : I have my oil temp running at 92 to 95 degrees Celsius at most on normal daily stop-start drive. Highway I might touch 100 if I'm cruising above 3k rpm. At Sepang I hit 120 degrees Celsius. 120 isn't ideal and probably will evaporate some oil (mine didn't. Good oil mah) so if you're hitting the track super often, you'll probably do well to have an oil cooler. If you're driving everywhere within city limits don't bother la. Oil cooler also means the engine takes longer to reach optimum temperature which isn't really ideal.

---------- Post added at 01:52 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:51 PM ----------

why not get yourself an oil temp meter if you're worried?

Izso... I don't want to get other things if not necessary. Later look like racer pulak. Got additional meters. I just want it stock and reliable. Even my decision to run 1 plug colder and "possibly" oil cooler is for reliability sake.

Oil cooler needed if you are already turbo charged. Using 1 number colder for plugs you have to increase you engine power by at least 75bhp, if not no point. My standard turbo still runs on standard No:6 only....

Mine is just standard. No mods nth at all. I just want to try to reduce knock. Since the optimum combustion chamber temperature is about 500 - 850 deg celsius, I figure out that maybe i can go one heat range colder, assuming that my engine's combustion chamber temperature is somewhere in the middle of 500 - 850. The basis of my assumption is the climate of our country and my driving condition. A lot of stop and go traffic and lots of jams. That would make the engine very hot. I think it would be unlikely that my combustion chamber temperature be at the lower end of the range (500 deg celsius).

---------- Post added at 03:48 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:30 PM ----------

take note that oil coolers will cause ur oil pressure to drop. one reason why i havent installed one yet even though im planning on tracking as much as possible this year.

some oil coolers come with thermostat to prevent oil pressure drop, but itll still drop once the thermostat opens...although not that long..upgrading oil pump is also an option. and oil coolers with thermostats are expensive... theres the M7 for sale here in this forum oso going about 1.5-1.7k iinm....ive found used oso around 800.

Yes bro even if i do get, i will get a proper one with thermostat. Do not want the oil to not reach its working temperature. That would be disastrous too. But im hoping i can get away with not using one when going one plug colder.

Sent from my android using Tapatalk.

 

[vr2turbo]

1. 10w40
2. 95 deg celsius
3. 82 - 95 deg celsius
4. City drive 80%, jam 12%, cruising 6%, rev & fun 2%.

Advise back?



Izso... I don't want to get other things if not necessary. Later look like racer pulak. Got additional meters. I just want it stock and reliable. Even my decision to run 1 plug colder and "possibly" oil cooler is for reliability sake.



Mine is just standard. No mods nth at all. I just want to try to reduce knock. Since the optimum combustion chamber temperature is about 500 - 850 deg celsius, I figure out that maybe i can go one heat range colder, assuming that my engine's combustion chamber temperature is somewhere in the middle of 500 - 850. The basis of my assumption is the climate of our country and my driving condition. A lot of stop and go traffic and lots of jams. That would make the engine very hot. I think it would be unlikely that my combustion chamber temperature be at the lower end of the range (500 deg celsius).

---------- Post added at 03:48 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:30 PM ----------



Yes bro even if i do get, i will get a proper one with thermostat. Do not want the oil to not reach its working temperature. That would be disastrous too. But im hoping i can get away with not using one when going one plug colder.

In that case, probably like bro. Izso mentioned you will need an oil temperature gauge to tell you the temperature after plug change. From there you can gauge whether you need the oil cooler or not.
But based on your usage looks like no need....

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

Guys...

I am contemplating whether or not to put an oil cooler. If possible, I do not want to add to many things if unecessary. Don't want to spend unnecessary money as a proper oil cooler is not cheap.

I am planning to use a spark plug that is just ONE "1" heat range colder. Since it will dump more heat to the oil, the oil will be hotter and possibly thinner i guess? Since it is just one heat range colder, is it possible to not use an oil cooler? Will it reduce the oil viscosity/lubrication? Will it be dangerous or bad for the engine?

thanks...

plug and engine oil not related lerrrr


using 1 range cooler spark plug means the plug tips 1 step shorter than the current one.. (the tip facing inside combustion chamber)


considering if u just use the car for daily with no racing2 weekend then dont bother..just use good and suitable engine oil weight/grade will be sufficient....

 

[vr2turbo]

plug and engine oil not related lerrrr


using 1 range cooler spark plug means the plug tips 1 step shorter than the current one.. (the tip facing inside combustion chamber)


considering if u just use the car for daily with no racing2 weekend then dont bother..just use good and suitable engine oil weight/grade will be sufficient....

You are right....

Got this from Wiki.....

Heat from the combustion chamber escapes through the exhaust gases, the side walls of the cylinder and the spark plug itself. The heat range of a spark plug has only a minute effect on combustion chamber and overall engine temperature. A cold plug will not materially cool down an engine's running temperature. (Too hot of a plug may, however, indirectly lead to a runaway pre-ignition condition that can increase engine temperature.) Rather, the main effect of a "hot" or "cold" plug is to affect the temperature of the tip of the spark plug.

 

[cvkit17]

All engine oils run at optimum viscosity at hundred degrees Celsius. That's the weight indication viscosity number no?

Not too sure haha

1. 10w40
2. 95 deg celsius
3. 82 - 95 deg celsius
4. City drive 80%, jam 12%, cruising 6%, rev & fun 2%.

Advise back?

Izso... I don't want to get other things if not necessary. Later look like racer pulak. Got additional meters. I just want it stock and reliable. Even my decision to run 1 plug colder and "possibly" oil cooler is for reliability sake.

Mine is just standard. No mods nth at all. I just want to try to reduce knock. Since the optimum combustion chamber temperature is about 500 - 850 deg celsius, I figure out that maybe i can go one heat range colder, assuming that my engine's combustion chamber temperature is somewhere in the middle of 500 - 850. The basis of my assumption is the climate of our country and my driving condition. A lot of stop and go traffic and lots of jams. That would make the engine very hot. I think it would be unlikely that my combustion chamber temperature be at the lower end of the range (500 deg celsius).

---------- Post added at 03:48 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 03:30 PM ----------



Yes bro even if i do get, i will get a proper one with thermostat. Do not want the oil to not reach its working temperature. That would be disastrous too. But im hoping i can get away with not using one when going one plug colder.

Sent from my android using Tapatalk.

If the engine runs at 82-95 degC the EO best viscosity is at 95 degC, my perception is to change nothing at all coz all those seems to be healthy datas altogether.

And correct me if I were wrong, knocking occurs due to pre-ignition. Isnt changing to colder spark plug will make it worse?

 

[Veloc]

plug and engine oil not related lerrrr


using 1 range cooler spark plug means the plug tips 1 step shorter than the current one.. (the tip facing inside combustion chamber)


considering if u just use the car for daily with no racing2 weekend then dont bother..just use good and suitable engine oil weight/grade will be sufficient....

Bro, correct me if i'm wrong. Doesn't the heat index represents how much heat a spark plug can insulate or conduct out of the combustion chamber? Nothing to do with the tip length right?

You are right....

Got this from Wiki.....

Heat from the combustion chamber escapes through the exhaust gases, the side walls of the cylinder and the spark plug itself. The heat range of a spark plug has only a minute effect on combustion chamber and overall engine temperature. A cold plug will not materially cool down an engine's running temperature. (Too hot of a plug may, however, indirectly lead to a runaway pre-ignition condition that can increase engine temperature.) Rather, the main effect of a "hot" or "cold" plug is to affect the temperature of the tip of the spark plug.

Oh you mean it affects the temperature of the tip only and not the whole combustion chamber itself? Learned something new. Thank you....

Not too sure haha



If the engine runs at 82-95 degC the EO best viscosity is at 95 degC, my perception is to change nothing at all coz all those seems to be healthy datas altogether.

And correct me if I were wrong, knocking occurs due to pre-ignition. Isn't changing to colder spark plug will make it worse?

Changing to colder plug will not make it worse. Knocking is due to high compression and/or high combustion chamber temperature. If a plug can really make a combustion chamber slightly cooler, i think knocking can be reduced. Of course not completely eliminated, but at least reduced.

 

[cvkit17]

Owh ok bro Veloc I got your point now but it isn't that. Fire needs 3 things to exists. Air, fuel, and heat. Spark is a form of concentrated heat. When we say high compression, it means the pressure inside the combustion chamber is high. When pressure increases in a space, the temperature rises too. This is what causes pre ignition because the temperature is so high the fuel self ignite. It is usually solved by tuning the ignition timing or using high RON fuel. Cold spark plugs will not be able to transfer so much heat from your engine that it becomes significant. Even if you install an oil cooler, it will not help much because the pressure and temperature build up instantly when the mixture of air and fuel is compressed. The heat transfer is not fast enough.

 

[vr2turbo]

Owh ok bro Veloc I got your point now but it isn't that. Fire needs 3 things to exists. Air, fuel, and heat. Spark is a form of concentrated heat. When we say high compression, it means the pressure inside the combustion chamber is high. When pressure increases in a space, the temperature rises too. This is what causes pre ignition because the temperature is so high the fuel self ignite. It is usually solved by tuning the ignition timing or using high RON fuel. Cold spark plugs will not be able to transfer so much heat from your engine that it becomes significant. Even if you install an oil cooler, it will not help much because the pressure and temperature build up instantly when the mixture of air and fuel is compressed. The heat transfer is not fast enough.

Maybe can use methanol or water injections system to cool temperature slightly....

 

[Izso]

Knocking with RON95 high comp blacktop setup eh? The methanol injection from SNOW is a solution but a pretty expensive one. Have you tried the additive that I reviewed recently? That thing cured my knocking issue

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

Bro, correct me if i'm wrong. Doesn't the heat index represents how much heat a spark plug can insulate or conduct out of the combustion chamber? Nothing to do with the tip length right?

yep it has nothing to do with tip length but normally for visual inspection apart from reading the plug code number...comparing the tip length is another way to judge the plug heat range...especially if the plug came from the same brand... (might not applicable when comparing plugs from different brand)