how to improve the performance of 4G13 stock engine

[LimauKanker]

hi sanekit,

yup, contacted. his product current at the billet cam at 288 deg, did not speak much on the technicality of it. but basically billet vs cast steel, can google it which is stronger.

my point wanted to ask about the lifting on regrind, the respond was lukewarm. so... I guess basically it is about the degree of tilting. unless whole head + rocker arm, etc send in, regrind cam + a little tweaking on the rest parts that inside the head, otherwise I don't see anywhere the regrind cam can LIFT. *just solely my personal opinion... pls don't bom me.

nope, you just have to sacrifice. can try to shim and compensate back from tappet adjustment la.

 

[sanekit]

hi sanekit,

yup, contacted. his product current at the billet cam at 288 deg, did not speak much on the technicality of it. but basically billet vs cast steel, can google it which is stronger.

my point wanted to ask about the lifting on regrind, the respond was lukewarm. so... I guess basically it is about the degree of tilting. unless whole head + rocker arm, etc send in, regrind cam + a little tweaking on the rest parts that inside the head, otherwise I don't see anywhere the regrind cam can LIFT. *just solely my personal opinion... pls don't bom me.

from what i read, to add lift on a camshaft, you grind down the radius of the base circle of the lobe to effectively give more lift without adding metal. the non-lobe part is ground away making the difference between highest part of the lobe and the lowest part of the base circle a greater distance. If you grind away enough of the base circle, you can flatten the top of the lobe and still increase the lift while changing the duration profile substantially.

so yes, the lift does increase if u grind the base circle. and you'll need to adjust your lifters or shim to compensate back like what @LimauKanker said.

 

[firezy]

found
1. an orion year 1985, 1.5 engine. the conrod 2mm and stud thicker than 4g18 conrod n 4g13 stud, and the stud is Allen key vs 4g13 normal bolt.
2. 77mm piston non high compression, 19mm piston pin, review orion conrod n block to fit.
3. 320deg cam shaft + cam pulley
4. Dcnf 40 sitting on japan carb intake manifold bcos the local carb intake manifold too big the base.

I hope by this month end can get it fix n on road...

Hahahha....

 

[firezy]

 

[firezy]

 

[firezy]

 

[firezy]

hmmm...

few more days...

the conrods different between the orion vs the magma

 

[firezy]

the urban saying about orion vs magma vs mega... I guess it does hold certain truth to it... I only managed to get the pomen to measured the conrod diff but not the block thickness...

to this orion, I hunted it all the way to Ipoh... paid for it, and it took 10 days to reach JB which I thought I got conned.

the whole thing been rebuilt

plug in a 12v head ported n polished by Eric, Sabah. I try to upload that block ported n polished later. it combo with 320 deg piper cam (pomen recommendation) which I personally more inclined toward matspeed. with BC valve spring.

the waja mmc crankshaft + 8.5" flywheel + racing clutch has been balanced.

the conrod + 77mm flat piston equipped with 19mm pin, therefore the orion conrod original 18mm has to be rebore. and of course the orion block itself bore to fit the 77mm piston too.

as the head been skimmed, now it is using 1.5mm metal gasket.

hope this car survived all these rebuilt.

 

[firezy]

 

[RENESIS VIII]

Gearbox housing looks brand new

 

[firezy]

stock gb with code 211

i'm keeping the gb, just overhaul it + changing all the bearings.

if I'm not happy with it, will find higher final ratio. as of now, keep the short gear ratio combo with the upgrades.

*not advisable for those going the path of rebuilding + stroker as the amount of moola/time spent... this has been highlighted by the taikors sekalian in earlier post, thank you taikors.

just a matter of personal preferences, as most of my aging 4g13p now replaced with new parts.