How to choose engine oil?

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What car and is that the recommended viscosity? 15w-40 should be mineral as semi nowadays comes in 10w-40
my ride @ the moment is the fish, coming 9 years this april is the last instalment, have been using p2 semi & send to p2 sc, think its 10w/30. after this will be d.i.y service & the deer will be using jb-jl for upgrade. so wondering which should be using for both so no need to keep diff eo edi, any solid recommendation for eo to use?
 
my ride @ the moment is the fish, coming 9 years this april is the last instalment, have been using p2 semi & send to p2 sc, think its 10w/30. after this will be d.i.y service & the deer will be using jb-jl for upgrade. so wondering which should be using for both so no need to keep diff eo edi, any solid recommendation for eo to use?

If on 10w-30, might as well keep to it. 40 weight may be too heavy. However most oil on sale is 40...:hmmmm:
 
If on 10w-30, might as well keep to it. 40 weight may be too heavy. However most oil on sale is 40...:hmmmm:

if that the case I think i'll use 10W as the main criteria for eo to keep coz it's the morning start up is my main concern + I think 30@40 weight wil do no harm neither for engine nor fc. what do yo guys think bout this??:idea:
 
When I modified my car back then I did balancing, lightening and blue printed everything. The tolerance for each item was so small, the oil I could use was only 30 weight and below. Anything thicker than that will make it sluggish and wouldn't work very well in my car. I've actually tried 5W40 in the car once after modification, it worked and nothing broke, but the power loss was apparent (my ass is sensitive. hehe) and the FC increased quite a bit. Swapped to 5W30 and everything went back to normal.

I'm not saying 30 and 40 weights are different, they aren't.... much. In a normal car using 30 or 40 weight won't make much of a difference. I can almost guarantee you won't feel it if the oil quality is good. That's a big 'if'. I've come across really bad 10W40 oils.

Anyway, ultimately if you buy a genuine oil from a reputable company you can't go wrong la. Just buy within your budget means.
 
When I modified my car back then I did balancing, lightening and blue printed everything. The tolerance for each item was so small, the oil I could use was only 30 weight and below. Anything thicker than that will make it sluggish and wouldn't work very well in my car. I've actually tried 5W40 in the car once after modification, it worked and nothing broke, but the power loss was apparent (my ass is sensitive. hehe) and the FC increased quite a bit. Swapped to 5W30 and everything went back to normal.

I'm not saying 30 and 40 weights are different, they aren't.... much. In a normal car using 30 or 40 weight won't make much of a difference. I can almost guarantee you won't feel it if the oil quality is good. That's a big 'if'. I've come across really bad 10W40 oils.

Anyway, ultimately if you buy a genuine oil from a reputable company you can't go wrong la. Just buy within your budget means.

k thanx for the enlightenment bro, will update if theres anything to share in the future:driver:
 
When I modified my car back then I did balancing, lightening and blue printed everything. The tolerance for each item was so small, the oil I could use was only 30 weight and below. Anything thicker than that will make it sluggish and wouldn't work very well in my car. I've actually tried 5W40 in the car once after modification, it worked and nothing broke, but the power loss was apparent (my ass is sensitive. hehe) and the FC increased quite a bit. Swapped to 5W30 and everything went back to normal.

I'm not saying 30 and 40 weights are different, they aren't.... much. In a normal car using 30 or 40 weight won't make much of a difference. I can almost guarantee you won't feel it if the oil quality is good. That's a big 'if'. I've come across really bad 10W40 oils.

Anyway, ultimately if you buy a genuine oil from a reputable company you can't go wrong la. Just buy within your budget means.

His is fish and deer which usually uses 30 weight, that is why I recommend back to 30 rather then 40, but also being 9 years old probably can use 40 already....hhahha:biggrin:
 
Hello Seniors,

Been going quickly thru this thread, seen some of you suggesting Motul, Castrol, Shell engine oil. 5W30, 5W40, 10W40 and all. I was wondering if somebody could suggest me between Shell or Petronas engine oil for my stock 1.3GL Satria and Saga BLM? 10W40 or 10W30?

I read some forums saying it depends on the driver themselves in determine which engine oil suits them, but i've only used Castrol and Petronas before and not noticing or knowing much benefit from either one of them.
Hope to get enlighten from you seniors.

Cheers.:stupid:
 
Hello Seniors,

Been going quickly thru this thread, seen some of you suggesting Motul, Castrol, Shell engine oil. 5W30, 5W40, 10W40 and all. I was wondering if somebody could suggest me between Shell or Petronas engine oil for my stock 1.3GL Satria and Saga BLM? 10W40 or 10W30?

I read some forums saying it depends on the driver themselves in determine which engine oil suits them, but i've only used Castrol and Petronas before and not noticing or knowing much benefit from either one of them.
Hope to get enlighten from you seniors.

Cheers.:stupid:

Just stick with the most common 10W40 will do. Try Kendall for its price. RM80/gallon
 
Huh. Most common means most used, so reliable and plenty here. In Malaysia at least.

Alright. Thanks for the information. I'll try to have a go with one of that Kendall soon. Oh by the way, which engine flush would you suggest?
 
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Alright. Thanks for the information. I'll try to have a go with one of that Kendall soon. Oh by the way, which engine flush would you suggest?

Have u been using genuine engine oil? And also change oil within 5,000km?
If yes, engine flush is a waste of money. Just change engine oil within 5,000km no matter fully syn or semi or mineral.
 
Hello Seniors,

Been going quickly thru this thread, seen some of you suggesting Motul, Castrol, Shell engine oil. 5W30, 5W40, 10W40 and all. I was wondering if somebody could suggest me between Shell or Petronas engine oil for my stock 1.3GL Satria and Saga BLM? 10W40 or 10W30?

I read some forums saying it depends on the driver themselves in determine which engine oil suits them, but i've only used Castrol and Petronas before and not noticing or knowing much benefit from either one of them.
Hope to get enlighten from you seniors.

Cheers.:stupid:

Hmm... stock right? Then whatever brand you buy, as long as it's a reputable brand and original - 10W40 or 10W30 will be fine la. I personally wouldn't use Magnatec for reasons known to me only, but any other brand will be fine.

If you really want to feel a difference in the oils, try going for 0W30. You'll feel really broke cuz the oil is so much more expensive than 10W30.

:biggrin:
 
Have u been using genuine engine oil? And also change oil within 5,000km?
If yes, engine flush is a waste of money. Just change engine oil within 5,000km no matter fully syn or semi or mineral.

Engine oil genuine so far. That is the thing, mine kinda exceed 5,000km with the Satria. Thinking of flushin it. Any recommendation?:hmmmm:
 
Hello Seniors,

Been going quickly thru this thread, seen some of you suggesting Motul, Castrol, Shell engine oil. 5W30, 5W40, 10W40 and all. I was wondering if somebody could suggest me between Shell or Petronas engine oil for my stock 1.3GL Satria and Saga BLM? 10W40 or 10W30?

I read some forums saying it depends on the driver themselves in determine which engine oil suits them, but i've only used Castrol and Petronas before and not noticing or knowing much benefit from either one of them.
Hope to get enlighten from you seniors.

Cheers.:stupid:

Engine oil genuine so far. That is the thing, mine kinda exceed 5,000km with the Satria. Thinking of flushin it. Any recommendation?:hmmmm:

Mineral or semi? If mineral how often have you been using mineral? Have you checked for leaks and all? A good engine flush will dislodge sludge and all that so if you had sludge blocking a leak or a hole somewhere, flushing your engine will make it leak.

Anyway as for recommendations, I highly recommend the bluechem engine flush. That one is pretty awesome. Otherwise the CRC engine flush will do as well.
 
Mineral or semi? If mineral how often have you been using mineral? Have you checked for leaks and all? A good engine flush will dislodge sludge and all that so if you had sludge blocking a leak or a hole somewhere, flushing your engine will make it leak.

Anyway as for recommendations, I highly recommend the bluechem engine flush. That one is pretty awesome. Otherwise the CRC engine flush will do as well.

If afraid of what bro. Izso mentioned on the sludge and leak, you can also buy a cheap single grade 30 weight oil, change the oil, run with it for a while then drain and then pour in your preferred oil....:driver:
 
Mineral or semi? If mineral how often have you been using mineral? Have you checked for leaks and all? A good engine flush will dislodge sludge and all that so if you had sludge blocking a leak or a hole somewhere, flushing your engine will make it leak.

Anyway as for recommendations, I highly recommend the bluechem engine flush. That one is pretty awesome. Otherwise the CRC engine flush will do as well.

Been using semi, just did a repair on a leakage few months ago. Thanks for the insight Izso, I just did the service without flush. I'll take note of bluechem when it comes to engine flush. Thanks again.
 
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Been using semi, just did a repair on a leakage few months ago. Thanks for the insight Izso, I just did the service without flush. I'll take note of bluechem when it comes to engine flush. Thanks again.

Rarely there will be sludge.
Unless everytime high rev with 15,000km OCI(Oil change interval). For years.
Within 10,000km normal driving you will get away with it.
 

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