Engine Oil 10w40 - Recommendation?

gunnerzz

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Well, the oils sold at Tesco do have the same rating as others and they're the same well known good brands like Mobil & Total. The last oil I bought which is the Mobil 3000 5w40 is also rated as SN oil. Total 5w40 there is also SN, as well as the other brands like Castrol, Shell, & Petronas. I'm doing OCI in my Mark X at 10k km using oils from Tesco/AEON (Mobil, Eneos) for many years already and no problem what so ever. I think you're wasting your money changing it at 5k intervals but it's up to you what ever gives you your peace of mind I suppose. :biggrin:
well,all this while i am using oil from outside shop so its expensive and i did it at 10k km.
now,oil is cheaper so can change earlier.
i even used the Tesco brand fs oil in my campro.
not to bad compared to known brand of fs oil.
this is the oil i change at 5k km.
its sold at rm89...half the price of reputable fs oil amd only a tad more expensive than some mineral or semi oil.
 

vr2turbo

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Many of the oil sold in Tesco is SN rated already. I even saw Shell New Pure plus technology Helix Ultra being sold there...
 

6UE5t

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well,all this while i am using oil from outside shop so its expensive and i did it at 10k km.
now,oil is cheaper so can change earlier.
i even used the Tesco brand fs oil in my campro.
not to bad compared to known brand of fs oil.
this is the oil i change at 5k km.
its sold at rm89...half the price of reputable fs oil amd only a tad more expensive than some mineral or semi oil.
Oh you mean the Tesco brand oil! That one I never try, and most likely will never too coz I only want to use brands I know will be good. IMHO it's best calue if buy Mobil/Tota/ etc2 FS oils at Tesco when on promotion coz only rm119-149 but can last 10 k km.

Many of the oil sold in Tesco is SN rated already. I even saw Shell New Pure plus technology Helix Ultra being sold there...
Yeap exactly.
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
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Oh you mean the Tesco brand oil! That one I never try, and most likely will never too coz I only want to use brands I know will be good. IMHO it's best calue if buy Mobil/Tota/ etc2 FS oils at Tesco when on promotion coz only rm119-149 but can last 10 k km.



Yeap exactly.
I have tried Mobil 1 before and it was at super bargain price.
Too bad my engine does not seem to interact well with the oil.
Maybe its been running on Total all along so I started using the total 7000 energy.
Super cheap, 5l packaging..what more can I ask for as my Waja needs 5l of oil.

For the Tesco oil, my BLM is still using it and previous oil was drain at abt 5k km.
 

6UE5t

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I have tried Mobil 1 before and it was at super bargain price.
Too bad my engine does not seem to interact well with the oil.
Maybe its been running on Total all along so I started using the total 7000 energy.
Super cheap, 5l packaging..what more can I ask for as my Waja needs 5l of oil.

For the Tesco oil, my BLM is still using it and previous oil was drain at abt 5k km.
How do you know it "does not seem to interact well with the oil."?
 

gunnerzz

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c
How do you know it "does not seem to interact well with the oil."?
slightly higher fc and lower low end pull.
if i recall correctly the viscosity is the same as the total quartz 9000 i was on.

juat check my drain container which is an pty total 7000 energy container.
it was rated SL,guess they have upgrade the rating now.

next i will buy eother the aisin 20l barrel or buy 4-5 bottle of the total 7000.
total is slightly cheaper conpared tp the aisin.
maybe coz aisin is sold at spare part shop.
 

vr2turbo

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c

slightly higher fc and lower low end pull.
if i recall correctly the viscosity is the same as the total quartz 9000 i was on.

juat check my drain container which is an pty total 7000 energy container.
it was rated SL,guess they have upgrade the rating now.

next i will buy eother the aisin 20l barrel or buy 4-5 bottle of the total 7000.
total is slightly cheaper conpared tp the aisin.
maybe coz aisin is sold at spare part shop.
Total Quartz 9000 have 5w-30, 5w-40 and 5w-50. The one sold in Tesco was 5w-40 if not mistaken. Mobil 1 silver is 5w-50 and Gold is 0w-40. If use silver Mobil 1 then the viscosity is thicker at 50, which could have cause your higher fc and lesser acceleration.....:driver:

---------- Post added at 07:58 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:53 AM ----------

I personally can never tell any difference, butt feel or other feels. That's why I just buy cheapest one as long as within the required viscosity spec. :rofl:
I am with you brother on this, if using same viscosity of different brand. Cannot feel the difference that is why I just use the cheapest FS I can get my hands on. For me since running lower mileage I just change at 5k km or 6 months.
However I used 5w-50, 10w-60, 5-30 and 5w-40 before in the VR.
10w-60 was definitely heavier feel, 5w-50 was quite close to 5w-40 but still slightly heavier. 5w-30 was light but my hydraulic tappet chatter loudly after the oil have warmed up, so I drained it and have been on 5w-40 even since.....:driver:
 

Izso

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Just wondering.....I am currently using Total 5w30....But then, Malaysia weather so hot couple with my engine being turbocharged, wouldnt it be too much heat for the oil grade to take? I mean i am just guessing la.

What do you guys think? Would the viscosity for the 5w be very thin and cannot protect the engine with the heat that its going through? :confused:
Your turbo isn't oil cooled right? Meaning you won't burn off any oil or anything. Why would you need to go thicker than manufacturer recommended?

Valvoline 10-40 not bad but so far sumo 10-60 is really damn good.

Silky smooth & big contrast compare to 10-40.
Personally if you ask me - if 10W60 is "smoother" than 10W40, I'd be concerned. Something so thick is smoother on your car means the oil viscosity is either inaccurate or there's something wrong with your car. It's supposed to feel very heavy for 10W60.

Or was your car specs supposed to use 10W60 in the first place? Then using 10W40 will make it unresponsive cuz too thin.

I have tried Mobil 1 before and it was at super bargain price.
Too bad my engine does not seem to interact well with the oil.
Maybe its been running on Total all along so I started using the total 7000 energy.
Super cheap, 5l packaging..what more can I ask for as my Waja needs 5l of oil.

For the Tesco oil, my BLM is still using it and previous oil was drain at abt 5k km.
I recall servicing a Waja. And I don't recall it ever using that much oil. Sure ka?

I personally can never tell any difference, butt feel or other feels. That's why I just buy cheapest one as long as within the required viscosity spec. :rofl:
I personally can't tell the difference either until the car is pushed hard. Then the temp stability is a giveaway
 

marv3

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Your turbo isn't oil cooled right? Meaning you won't burn off any oil or anything. Why would you need to go thicker than manufacturer recommended?

How do i know if the turbo is oil cooled or not ya? Any way to identify it from the car?:confused::confused:

But i think is both though, but cant really be sure......
 
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Maxx

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Your turbo isn't oil cooled right? Meaning you won't burn off any oil or anything. Why would you need to go thicker than manufacturer recommended?



Personally if you ask me - if 10W60 is "smoother" than 10W40, I'd be concerned. Something so thick is smoother on your car means the oil viscosity is either inaccurate or there's something wrong with your car. It's supposed to feel very heavy for 10W60.

Or was your car specs supposed to use 10W60 in the first place? Then using 10W40 will make it unresponsive cuz too thin.



I recall servicing a Waja. And I don't recall it ever using that much oil. Sure ka?



I personally can't tell the difference either until the car is pushed hard. Then the temp stability is a giveaway
How do i know if the turbo is oil cooled or not ya? Any way to identify it from the car?:confused::confused:

But i think is both though, but cant really be sure......
i dont think there is a 'oil cooled' turbo.. all turbo running on oil isnt it?
just some turbo got water cooled.

afaik, those term oil cooled / water cooled are coined from formen.. differentiating 'oil only turbo' and 'oil & water cooled turbo'
 

vr2turbo

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I recall servicing a Waja. And I don't recall it ever using that much oil. Sure ka?
I think his Waja is with Renault 1.8L engine that requires 5L engine oil....:smokin:

---------- Post added at 06:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:22 PM ----------

i dont think there is a 'oil cooled' turbo.. all turbo running on oil isnt it?
just some turbo got water cooled.

afaik, those term oil cooled / water cooled are coined from formen.. differentiating 'oil only turbo' and 'oil & water cooled turbo'
Like mine, it is water cooled but oil lubricated......:driver:
 

gunnerzz

2,000 RPM
Jul 3, 2014
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I recall servicing a Waja. And I don't recall it ever using that much oil. Sure ka?



[/QUOTE]

mine is neither the campro nor mitsu waja.
mine is f4p engine.
 

6UE5t

6,000 RPM
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Oct 8, 2010
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Total Quartz 9000 have 5w-30, 5w-40 and 5w-50. The one sold in Tesco was 5w-40 if not mistaken. Mobil 1 silver is 5w-50 and Gold is 0w-40. If use silver Mobil 1 then the viscosity is thicker at 50, which could have cause your higher fc and lesser acceleration.....:driver:

---------- Post added at 07:58 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:53 AM ----------



I am with you brother on this, if using same viscosity of different brand. Cannot feel the difference that is why I just use the cheapest FS I can get my hands on. For me since running lower mileage I just change at 5k km or 6 months.
However I used 5w-50, 10w-60, 5-30 and 5w-40 before in the VR.
10w-60 was definitely heavier feel, 5w-50 was quite close to 5w-40 but still slightly heavier. 5w-30 was light but my hydraulic tappet chatter loudly after the oil have warmed up, so I drained it and have been on 5w-40 even since.....:driver:
Mobil also now has Mobil 3000 X1 5w40 in Tesco.
Yeah for Mitsu's HLA, I also used to use Total Quartz 9000 5w40 FS.

...
I personally can't tell the difference either until the car is pushed hard. Then the temp stability is a giveaway
I don't push hard for too long period, maximum only like the time I need when going up Genting, not racing on tracks or repeated drag runs. Temp still stable also but of course I don't measure with more accurate meters.
 

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