Engine oil and petrol brand (most controversial topic lol)

eques

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Hi guys, I feel like this forum isn't so active. So I've decided to discuss on the 2 of the most controversial topic that everyone can join. Unlike other topic everyone can give their 2 piece of advice / experience no matter what car you drive .i do understand there's a lot of discussion on this topic however most of them are old af therefore it may not be as precise anymore due to new addictive being used.

So let's share our thoughts on which engine oil brand you think serve you best. And where can we buy them to ensure their authenticity ( a lot of fake oil out there)

Second is which fuel brand gives best millage. As for me so far caltex and petron:driver:
 

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For me, I drive a turbo so not looking for mileage but what petrol runs best for my VR. So far only Petron and BHP for me. Shell always having problem....lol
For engine oil, I have been switching brands for years. Why? well, money for value. To me, changing oil on time is better than using expensive oil and prolong OCI. Currently running on Pennzoil HDEO 10w-40 in my turbo. Again Why HDEO? Well, initially suppose to use it to flush my engine, but my engine runs quieter on them so decided to use it. Another reason, they are so much cheaper I can do more frequent OCI.....lol
More over, you can buy Pennzoil direct from UMW counter. Opens every Tuesday and Thursday. Buying from them you get authentic original oil, since you are afraid of fake stuffs from outside supplier....
 

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Oh first time heard someone praising Pennzoil haha usually I heard people say it uses bad base oil. Anyway what's your interval change, because I don't drive far and my interval change is 1 year once lol
 

marsha1l_v6

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my car also like VR..turbo-ed car..

previously using shell..does not perform well on boost..change to petron most of the time, unless fuel almost deplete at my workplace, had to use shell.

as for engine oil, using LM 10w60, tried various EO brand at 10w40, most of the time EO getting less after hard drive. Using 10w60, fix the issue. 7k/3month OCI.
 

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Oh first time heard someone praising Pennzoil haha usually I heard people say it uses bad base oil. Anyway what's your interval change, because I don't drive far and my interval change is 1 year once lol
1 year ? wow...for mine 3 months or 5k maybe 6k top. Spent rm120-150 ++ is better than repair the engine.
Petrol, i fill up just any brand i pass by.
 
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RENESIS VIII

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I'm using Bardahl 5W-40 fully synthetic engine oil for my 4G15 engine. Serves my engine well but some said my engine is a bit noisy.
 

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Engine oil - I uses the Petronas Syntium 3000 for the current car, haven't tried anything else yet since previous owner been using this.
Petrol station? Well anything that comes to sight.
 

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For engine oil - it's subjective unless you do an UOA - used oil analysis test. Otherwise it's just butt feel vs butt feel and everyones butt feel is different. But personally I've used and like Penrite as best value for money oil. 5L bottles and good base oil and additive package.

Petrol is subjective too. Different stations may have different quality of petrol due to tank age, perhaps contaminants, etc. But generally speaking most of us agree Shell is not good for our cars. But having said that my stock 11 year old Myvi and 5 year old Innova use any petrol and I get the same mileage and performance.

so yeah.
 

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ixeo

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For engine oil - it's subjective unless you do an UOA - used oil analysis test. Otherwise it's just butt feel vs butt feel and everyones butt feel is different. But personally I've used and like Penrite as best value for money oil. 5L bottles and good base oil and additive package.

Petrol is subjective too. Different stations may have different quality of petrol due to tank age, perhaps contaminants, etc. But generally speaking most of us agree Shell is not good for our cars. But having said that my stock 11 year old Myvi and 5 year old Innova use any petrol and I get the same mileage and performance.

so yeah.
Mobil 1 has been consistent throughout UOAs posted by individuals on the net. Even after their reformulation 7 or 8 years ago its still consistent. So if you use Mobil 1 it may not be the best EO, but its a good EO.

My sampan actually likes the Blitz S2 5w40 Fully Synthetic more than the Mobil 1 0w40. It's quieter, but from the sound of the engine, the Blitz starts off great, but sounds rough around the 7000km mark. Mobil 1 sounds the same from fresh to about 15000km.
 

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my car also like VR..turbo-ed car..

previously using shell..does not perform well on boost..change to petron most of the time, unless fuel almost deplete at my workplace, had to use shell.

as for engine oil, using LM 10w60, tried various EO brand at 10w40, most of the time EO getting less after hard drive. Using 10w60, fix the issue. 7k/3month OCI.

Wow what car you drive? Using 60.. I used 40 I already feel very heavy haha.

BTW 4g15.. Missed that engine rip evo line. I feel very bad for people who bought lancer 10 in Malaysia. Everyone will just assume it's a inspira
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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Engine oil depends on budget, how much are you willing to spend? If want to spend over rm200/4ltr then maybe can use Amsoil. If below rm200 then need to find which good ones on promotion, either Mobil 1, Total, Elf, Eneos. I personally like those 4 brands. Maybe Petronas also good but I never tried before. I don't really prefer Shell or Castrol though, unless they're really cheap, coz tests results I've seen on the web don't look as good and they don't publish their oil specs like Viscosity index, TBN, etc2 (or maybe I just missed them). Currently I even use oil cheaper than rm100! :biggrin: But anyway as long as you use suitable viscosity with proper ratings and change oil regularly as recommended then should be fine, just a matter of how much you're willing to spend.

As for fuel, I cannot feel any difference, maybe coz my car is just a normal car, not high performance one hence not sensitive to fuel brands differences. I just fill up Petron coz got rm45 free fuel after 3000 points. :biggrin:
 

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For the next few years, it's highly probable I will be using Mobil 1 :listen:
I'd imagine so too considering you just bought a carton worth. :biggrin:

Engine oil depends on budget, how much are you willing to spend? If want to spend over rm200/4ltr then maybe can use Amsoil. If below rm200 then need to find which good ones on promotion, either Mobil 1, Total, Elf, Eneos. I personally like those 4 brands. Maybe Petronas also good but I never tried before. I don't really prefer Shell or Castrol though, unless they're really cheap, coz tests results I've seen on the web don't look as good and they don't publish their oil specs like Viscosity index, TBN, etc2 (or maybe I just missed them). Currently I even use oil cheaper than rm100! :biggrin: But anyway as long as you use suitable viscosity with proper ratings and change oil regularly as recommended then should be fine, just a matter of how much you're willing to spend.

As for fuel, I cannot feel any difference, maybe coz my car is just a normal car, not high performance one hence not sensitive to fuel brands differences. I just fill up Petron coz got rm45 free fuel after 3000 points. :biggrin:
Yeah, I agree man. Budget is everything. Forcing someone to buy an oil they can't afford is pointless.

Out of curiosity - say I use mineral oils and OCI every 2k-3k KM, would that be the same as me using fully synthetic OCI 10k KM? I mean detergents, lubrication and wear and tear only. Heat exchange would be significantly different I'd expect.

VR2Turbo : Do HDEO have the right additives to be used on high heat type engines?
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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I'd imagine so too considering you just bought a carton worth. :biggrin:



Yeah, I agree man. Budget is everything. Forcing someone to buy an oil they can't afford is pointless.

Out of curiosity - say I use mineral oils and OCI every 2k-3k KM, would that be the same as me using fully synthetic OCI 10k KM? I mean detergents, lubrication and wear and tear only. Heat exchange would be significantly different I'd expect.

VR2Turbo : Do HDEO have the right additives to be used on high heat type engines?
Mineral engine oil will cook in the turbo even if you change every 2000km.
 

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Just go buy cheap synthetic better, if want cheap and use for proton car I usually buy from this facebook page " v fier oil" just google. They are based on Batu caves and if not mistaken I bought semi for about rm120 including oil filter.
 

vr2turbo

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Oh first time heard someone praising Pennzoil haha usually I heard people say it uses bad base oil. Anyway what's your interval change, because I don't drive far and my interval change is 1 year once lol
Pennzoil belongs to Shell, probably base oil is shell, then shell oil also not good....lol

Mine is 5K or 6 months OCI...
 

6UE5t

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I'd imagine so too considering you just bought a carton worth. :biggrin:



Yeah, I agree man. Budget is everything. Forcing someone to buy an oil they can't afford is pointless.

Out of curiosity - say I use mineral oils and OCI every 2k-3k KM, would that be the same as me using fully synthetic OCI 10k KM? I mean detergents, lubrication and wear and tear only. Heat exchange would be significantly different I'd expect.

VR2Turbo : Do HDEO have the right additives to be used on high heat type engines?
Still not the same because the properties will be different. Mineral oils cannot reach as high viscosity index, flash points, and other characteristics of full synth oils, so if say you use mineral oils on high performance engines and rev it to the max even before reaching 2-3k km the properties of the oil should already get significantly deteriorated I'd think. Maybe if you just use normal cars and drive normal then would not be as bad.

Eh bro, you worked in an oil company, you should know better than me la!
 

vr2turbo

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Still not the same because the properties will be different. Mineral oils cannot reach as high viscosity index, flash points, and other characteristics of full synth oils, so if say you use mineral oils on high performance engines and rev it to the max even before reaching 2-3k km the properties of the oil should already get significantly deteriorated I'd think. Maybe if you just use normal cars and drive normal then would not be as bad.

Eh bro, you worked in an oil company, you should know better than me la!
He not into technical aspect of the oil mah! He IT sifu......:driver:
 

vr2turbo

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What is hdeo, share abit le
Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO) is more to reference diesel engine oil.
But there are those that are strictly for diesel engine with C rating only and there are those usable for both diesel and petrol with C and S rating....:driver:
 

vr2turbo

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Still he is a car guy who worked on an well known oil company, I'd think he would know more than typical guy like me la.
Well, all depends whether the person into it or not. Like me, professional working was in Logistics, but hobbies were cars, tyres, oil and detailing....:driver:
 

marsha1l_v6

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Wow what car you drive? Using 60.. I used 40 I already feel very heavy haha.

BTW 4g15.. Missed that engine rip evo line. I feel very bad for people who bought lancer 10 in Malaysia. Everyone will just assume it's a inspira
Driving perdanalution.. Evo3 engine perdana.. :driver:
 

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Still not the same because the properties will be different. Mineral oils cannot reach as high viscosity index, flash points, and other characteristics of full synth oils, so if say you use mineral oils on high performance engines and rev it to the max even before reaching 2-3k km the properties of the oil should already get significantly deteriorated I'd think. Maybe if you just use normal cars and drive normal then would not be as bad.

Eh bro, you worked in an oil company, you should know better than me la!
But that's what I'm saying - if you're just a normal driver driving a normal car would it make any difference?

Or even in the case of a turbo car - say I opt for semi but OCI it every 2k km... how is that compared to a FS and OCI it every 7k km? Not track use or anything excessive. Just daily driving.
 

marsha1l_v6

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Haha I feel like its very heavy eh, why you using 60. What engine your perdana using
4g63t evo3, doesnt feel heavy,liqui moly race tech gt1 10w-60, been using for 3 cycle already. not disappointing and no missing oil after hard drive. Now saw petronas race oil 10w-60 full syn..not sure the price but keen to try, better if less than current EO..hahaha :rofl:
 

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4g63 ? Theres many variant for malaysia style of evo ma.. :confused::confused:
Some people even consider 4g13 or 4g15 to be a "evo" engine. People tend to confuse between lancer and an evolution
Those people talking nonsense loh. VR4 plus Evo 1 to 9 are the evo engine 4G63T. Only Evo X have 4B11T
 

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Those people talking nonsense loh. VR4 plus Evo 1 to 9 are the evo engine 4G63T. Only Evo X have 4B11T
Ya La, but didn't want to be rude haha. Malaysian tend to think if it's Mitsubishi or mivec it's who engine. Didn't know that guy knows his stuff or not. Some people even thinks dohc means evo while shoc is the lancer version
 

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4g63t evo3, doesnt feel heavy,liqui moly race tech gt1 10w-60, been using for 3 cycle already. not disappointing and no missing oil after hard drive. Now saw petronas race oil 10w-60 full syn..not sure the price but keen to try, better if less than current EO..hahaha :rofl:
Very little brands out there is more expensive than Liqui Moly :biggrin: Try Amsoil signature series bro. Good shit.
 

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Very little brands out there is more expensive than Liqui Moly :biggrin: Try Amsoil signature series bro. Good shit.
will try after to OCI cycle, next cycle will give me free OCI for the following cycle.. :love:

they sell it in quart..may need 5 quart..if each cost rm8x (refering to signature series @ lazada before discount) ..cost well over than current EO..hahaha pokai pokai.. :bawling:
 

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Just go buy cheap synthetic better, if want cheap and use for proton car I usually buy from this facebook page " v fier oil" just google. They are based on Batu caves and if not mistaken I bought semi for about rm120 including oil filter.
Why would you go all the way there to buy semi oil for RM120 with oil filter? P1/P2 oil filters are around RM15.. means the oil is RM105? Semi... depending on the quality, can run 5k km to 10k km.

M1 @ RM160 for 4L, + 1x Filter for RM15, can go 15k km EASY.

Assuming 30k km mileage, you would have changed your semi 3 times. Or with M1, changed twice. Total cost over 30k km =

Mobil 1 4L x 2 = RM320, 2x filter = RM30, total RM350
Your RM120 package x 3 = RM360

Mobil 1 is definitely good... your v fier oil.. i dunno. Why bother when M1 works out to be cheaper?

Pennzoil belongs to Shell, probably base oil is shell, then shell oil also not good....lol

Mine is 5K or 6 months OCI...
You can't say Shell Oil not good. While it is still Group III based stocks which is not 100% synthetic. Shell uses their proprietary XHVI process. Can read the technical details here:

https://books.google.com.my/books?i...UVB6QQ6AEIUDAG#v=onepage&q=shell xhvi&f=false

Personally I rank Shell Helix Ultra above the normal Group III synthetics, but below 100% Group IV PAO or 100% Group V esters. Would I use it? Yup, sure did.

http://www.bmwblog.com/2014/11/10/bmw-replaces-castrol-shell-recommended-oil-supplier/

I personally think the Castrol european synthetics are way above shell, but sadly, manufacturers like BMW ditched Castrol for Shell's cheaper EOs. Guess BMW is gonna make more money from the customers. Sell the Shell Oils for the same price as Castrol, but in actual fact it is using a cheaper base stock.

I'd try Amsoil over Liqui Moly for that kind of price.
Amsoil oils are GOOD.
 

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Why would you go all the way there to buy semi oil for RM120 with oil filter? P1/P2 oil filters are around RM15.. means the oil is RM105? Semi... depending on the quality, can run 5k km to 10k km.

M1 @ RM160 for 4L, + 1x Filter for RM15, can go 15k km EASY.

Assuming 30k km mileage, you would have changed your semi 3 times. Or with M1, changed twice. Total cost over 30k km =

Mobil 1 4L x 2 = RM320, 2x filter = RM30, total RM350
Your RM120 package x 3 = RM360

Mobil 1 is definitely good... your v fier oil.. i dunno. Why bother when M1 works out to be cheaper?
...


Amsoil oils are GOOD.
Yup agree with the above, using good FS oil actually can be cheaper than using semi. If semi oil, should get below rm90 or at least under rm100 then ok.

Amsoil not widely available though.
 

vr2turbo

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I personally think the Castrol european synthetics are way above shell, but sadly, manufacturers like BMW ditched Castrol for Shell's cheaper EOs. Guess BMW is gonna make more money from the customers. Sell the Shell Oils for the same price as Castrol, but in actual fact it is using a cheaper base stock.
Do you think Castrol will be using BP base oil since they are under BP....:smokin:
 

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Do you think Castrol will be using BP base oil since they are under BP....:smokin:
Don't know, never bothered. But doesn't really matter because other than Shell, all other oil blenders hydrocrack their Group III base stocks and call it "synthetic".
 

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Don't know, never bothered. But doesn't really matter because other than Shell, all other oil blenders hydrocrack their Group III base stocks and call it "synthetic".
Yup, all the major oil company does that.......lol
 

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Yup agree with the above, using good FS oil actually can be cheaper than using semi. If semi oil, should get below rm90 or at least under rm100 then ok.

Amsoil not widely available though.
looks like amsoil >> Lmoly :hmmmm:

lazada only got 1 seller...selling only 1 amsoil..do you know where can i get it in klang valley?
 

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I've used Amsoil SSO, German Castrol, M1, Blitz S2, Shell Helix Ultra.

Among all, I'd say Amsoil SSO 0w30 is the best overall. 15,000km easy
M1 0w40 is 2nd best overall. 15,000km as well

German Castrol 0w30 is good, but longevity from the sound of the engine not as good as SSO & M1. I won't go beyond 10,000km
Blitz S2 5w40 is good when fresh, again, longevity from the sound not as good as all 3 above. But in terms of "fresh oil" it is the best by far. Kaputs around 7000km. If you're practicing oil change every 5000km, I'll definitely pick this oil. I'm too lazy so I go for the long oil change intervals.

Shell Helix Ultra.. oklor. I got it for RM119 back then, apa lagi mau? It was the cheapest synthetic.

Redline engine oil is fully synthetic, but the price was like RM6x per quart, too expensive for my blood. But from my friend's subjective feedback, doesn't seem to last well past 10k km.

I use my oils hard, because the turbo is always boosting and engine oil is circulated to the turbo as well.
 

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I've used Amsoil SSO, German Castrol, M1, Blitz S2, Shell Helix Ultra.

Among all, I'd say Amsoil SSO 0w30 is the best overall. 15,000km easy
M1 0w40 is 2nd best overall. 15,000km as well

German Castrol 0w30 is good, but longevity from the sound of the engine not as good as SSO & M1. I won't go beyond 10,000km
Blitz S2 5w40 is good when fresh, again, longevity from the sound not as good as all 3 above. But in terms of "fresh oil" it is the best by far. Kaputs around 7000km. If you're practicing oil change every 5000km, I'll definitely pick this oil. I'm too lazy so I go for the long oil change intervals.

Shell Helix Ultra.. oklor. I got it for RM119 back then, apa lagi mau? It was the cheapest synthetic.

Redline engine oil is fully synthetic, but the price was like RM6x per quart, too expensive for my blood. But from my friend's subjective feedback, doesn't seem to last well past 10k km.

I use my oils hard, because the turbo is always boosting and engine oil is circulated to the turbo as well.
Any particular reason why you use a 0w? I thought they're only required in 4 seasons countries.

Also, anybody tried voltronic?
 

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Any particular reason why you use a 0w? I thought they're only required in 4 seasons countries.

Also, anybody tried voltronic?
0w for cold countries is the old explanation. newer cars with tighter tolerances these days would use oil as light as 0w20.

https://www.carlist.my/news/caring-...ce-jobs-done-hondas-authorised-service/42767/

The turbochargers and its related ancillary components are maintenance-free and since Honda has adopted the highest SN grade lubricant (formulated by Idemitsu, 0W-20 for fully synthetic oil) for all its engines, the Civic does not need a different lubricant.
0w oils help protect against cold starts, as the oil is lighter/easier to circulate before its up to operational temperature.
 

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I've used Amsoil SSO, German Castrol, M1, Blitz S2, Shell Helix Ultra.

Among all, I'd say Amsoil SSO 0w30 is the best overall. 15,000km easy
M1 0w40 is 2nd best overall. 15,000km as well

German Castrol 0w30 is good, but longevity from the sound of the engine not as good as SSO & M1. I won't go beyond 10,000km
Blitz S2 5w40 is good when fresh, again, longevity from the sound not as good as all 3 above. But in terms of "fresh oil" it is the best by far. Kaputs around 7000km. If you're practicing oil change every 5000km, I'll definitely pick this oil. I'm too lazy so I go for the long oil change intervals.

Shell Helix Ultra.. oklor. I got it for RM119 back then, apa lagi mau? It was the cheapest synthetic.

Redline engine oil is fully synthetic, but the price was like RM6x per quart, too expensive for my blood. But from my friend's subjective feedback, doesn't seem to last well past 10k km.

I use my oils hard, because the turbo is always boosting and engine oil is circulated to the turbo as well.
where do u get your amsoil?

so far change every 7k once the EO get really dark...and butt feel 'heavy'

How do you determine whether the EO kaputs?
 

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where do u get your amsoil?

so far change every 7k once the EO get really dark...and butt feel 'heavy'

How do you determine whether the EO kaputs?
Back then from Mayalab, but I think they are no longer the distributor.

EO should turn black after use, that's the detergents and additives working. I determine it from the sound from the engine. I'm quite attuned to the sound of my engine. So I make a mental note when oil is fresh, and listen to it from time to time.

Considering M1 shows that it easily does 10k miles (16k km) on other people's UOA, so I just went for it. Actually it sounds like it can still go, but I didn't bother since no I don't do UOA, and 15k miles is almost a year. I strongly believe changing EO every year, regardless of the mileage.

And from the time where my engine was cracked open, everything inside is clean. No varnish whatsoever.

Oh forgot, I also used the local UMW Pennzoil synthetic platinum, usually 8k km.
 

s.marz

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s.marz

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0w for cold countries is the old explanation. newer cars with tighter tolerances these days would use oil as light as 0w20.

https://www.carlist.my/news/caring-...ce-jobs-done-hondas-authorised-service/42767/



0w oils help protect against cold starts, as the oil is lighter/easier to circulate before its up to operational temperature.
That's very interesting, thanks for sharing the knowledge.

Always thought it is for cold countries only and when I started my car back then when it was -20 outside, the engine did sound terrifying at first.
 

Izso

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Izso

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That's very interesting, thanks for sharing the knowledge.

Always thought it is for cold countries only and when I started my car back then when it was -20 outside, the engine did sound terrifying at first.
Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Realistically, with M'sian weather 10w oil is more than enough. But say you're parked in Genting or Camerons overnight, 5w or 0w would be good to have
I doubt it makes much difference in Cameron with 16 deg C on cold raining morning. Overseas winters are those below zero winters.....:driver: