DIY Water Injected

[12oY]

wau that cool thank bro...

 

[kabu]

HAAAAAA itula yg wa nak mentioned tu.......gune vacum utk sedut masuk...gune udare vavle control frm aquarium utk kawal titisan air yg masuk agar ia boleh jadi mist bile mix dgn heat...

kat sini dah jimat.tak yah beli pump........tak yah gune injector.....tak yah nak tarik wiring utk pump tak yah beli relay utk wiring tu........tak yah.ape lagi ek???
pump dah digantikan dgn vacum suction.......injector dah digantikan dgn aquarium udare controller 2 way..........

 

[fabianyee]

do a search on "water Injection" or "Hydro Turbo" on google and you shud find some interesting read....
the water mist is to cool down the air temperature in the intake manifold as mentioned earlier.... and from what I read, it also act as steam cleaning for the combustion chamber.... Have also read that water itself can be corrosive for the aluminum surface in the intake manifold, so the proper way is to mix water with alcohol (forgot which type, but definitely not JD)

I have unplugged my water container and it's now functioning like those microcompressor thingy, I just leave the valve open to draw in more air...
Total cost < RM20...
3meter black Vacuum hose RM10
Aquarium Valve RM3
1-way water valve (attached to water container) RM1.50
Aquarium hose RM3
Listerine bottle FOC....

 

[slow_no.]

quote by fabianyee:-
I have unplugged my water container and it's now functioning like those microcompressor thingy, I just leave the valve open to draw in more air...
Total cost < RM20...
3meter black Vacuum hose RM10
Aquarium Valve RM3
1-way water valve (attached to water container) RM1.50
Aquarium hose RM3
Listerine bottle FOC....

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Why not try to connect the open valve to draw more air with a small air filter....these will filtered dust n a little bit of heat from coming through the open valve n dierct to the system........

 

[drexchan]

kabu,

some one has explained it before me. FYI, muatan haba tentu is "specific heat capacity".

I have done some researched on the water vapour injection as well. And i already have the components in my store. It's a matter of time to assemble it.

As you know, what we need to do is to unplug the crankcase ventilation hose, and connect the intake hose (just before the TB) to the water reservoir using a longer hose.

The air will be drawn-in via a small filter and bubbled through the water using a fish-stone. Since the air is hot, it will transfer some heat to the water and eventually evaporates it. The vapour of water is then collected at the top of the container and is sucked into the manifold.

Yes, the vacuum effect will be greatest at part-throotle, but not at idling nor full-throttle.

The amount of air being sucked-in can be controlled using a valve just after the filter. For safety reason, an additional valve after the container can be added.

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*the reason why I am still thinking of whether to do it or not:

Injecting additional air (with water vapour) AFTER the MAF will just lean up the mixture.

This is not a problem at idling because: 1. engine idling runs on closed-loop, 2. the injection point is before the butterfly. Any variation in A/F ratio during closed-loop can be rectify by the ECU as long as the variation is not too large.

But this is a problem during part-throttle, i.e. during highway cruising, because the engine is running on open-loops (for Siemen's ECU) now. During open-loop, the engine runs on default mapping. The variation in A/F ratio will not be rectify.

The results of this could be either (depends on the design of the ECU):

1. leaner burning that create more heat, but is 'cooled-down' by the water vapour. So overall effect will be better fuel economy at highway cruising due to a 'better' burning ---> the objective of this modification is achieved. But how much is the ratio of H2O/air to be injected (which is hard to control) to justify the additional heat (lean burning) and cooling effect (H2O high heat capacity) is a BIG QUESTION.

2. Well, some ECUs learn. These ECUs are mainly closed-loops ECUs. During part-throttle situation as i have described above, the ECU will make correction on the A/F ration based on the mapping, and if the 'error' occurs everytime, the ECU will make that as the defaut setting, and a new map is refered ---> You will just lean-up everything!

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I have no idea how exactly my ECU works.. that's why the project is still on-hold.

 

[flamefox850]

dude, try using SAFC to richen ur fuel a bit..then drive and see the result. if u want more accurate, use wide band air/fuel meter to adjust ur air fuel ratio..on dyno machine is more accurate cos ur car can 'move'

p/s: hehe my car using MAP sensor only no need to worry..just using safc to richen it but got no money and no time to get this experiment yet :P

 

[drexchan]

That's an advantage of using only MAP. Thanks for pointing it out.. :)

by the way, is SAFC compatible with Siemens VDO ECU?

 

[flamefox850]

dunno about that bro...some say siemens ecu can't be adjusted/..dunno true or not

 

[drexchan]

That's why i asked... heard from the majority that it's not possible but someone told me some tuner shop did it before..

 

[tykoh]

mind to share the pictures that you had install it to your car?

 

[Viperleed]

if i'm not mistaken, Tom did it before and posted last time..
correct me if i'm wrong... need some advice from our boss ler....

 

[drexchan]

Originally posted by tykoh@Nov 26 2004, 17:41
mind to share the pictures that you had install it to your car?

who me? not installed yet but got the components.. some in my lab, some in my car, some in my store.. hehe!! Will gether them and take a photo for you guys... ;)