Car modification for myvi 1.5se auto advice

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Izso

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The reason why Jerry suggested Mytheology is because of the damper.
Cost more than Works)no damping) because of it and also its better.
Erm.. no. That rubber piece in the pulley does very little. The main advantage of Mythelogy over the competitors is the reinforced center sleeve. It's stronger and resists wear on the center part of the pulley. Horror stories with other brands wearing out in the center is all over the place.

All aftermarket pulleys (except for one very expensive one I've seen) don't have harmonic dampeners. Meaning they are very prone to vibrational forces and regardless how strong the T5/T6 alu is, it'll wear & eventually and deform, specifically the center part of the pulley that's connected to the crank shaft. That's why stock pulleys all have harmonic dampeners in the first place, to absorb some if not all of that vibration. Unfortunately these dampeners are made of rubber and will wear out over time.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
 

vr2turbo

((( God Level 30,000 RPM )))
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Erm.. no. That rubber piece in the pulley does very little. The main advantage of Mythelogy over the competitors is the reinforced center sleeve. It's stronger and resists wear on the center part of the pulley. Horror stories with other brands wearing out in the center is all over the place.

All aftermarket pulleys (except for one very expensive one I've seen) don't have harmonic dampeners. Meaning they are very prone to vibrational forces and regardless how strong the T5/T6 alu is, it'll wear & eventually and deform, specifically the center part of the pulley that's connected to the crank shaft. That's why stock pulleys all have harmonic dampeners in the first place, to absorb some if not all of that vibration. Unfortunately these dampeners are made of rubber and will wear out over time.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents.
Years ago my VR ones came apart. Now having a solid metal one, not aluminum....:driver:
 

123

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hmm i'm using arospeed alu on my vr now but no holes, just solid, previous owner installed
 

revfast

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Pure sharing.

I have done some suspension upgrade after the mileage clocked 50k

- Rear UR 18mm ARB (highly recommended)
- Front UR strut bar (wasted, 0% feeling)
- AR springs (it meets my 60% handling, 40% comfort. I am more into handling person)
- 15'' taiwan RPF 01 (It is very light. 195-50-15 with Ecopia 200. Surprisingly very good grip on the wet and dry condition)
- Shenzo 5w30 Infinity Fully Synthetic Racing oil (very huge different compare to Perodua semi Syn. Fuel consumption and the engine runs
very smooth. It can last for 15k km.
- Iridium spark plugs (from Perodua, cost me $160+, it can last for 100k km. But I think its bullshit)
- Will be getting a pair of Honda EK front brake system, including the bigger brake pump, roughly $600 in total. This is my second disc rotor(left) warranty replacement. Sick of the quality of the disc rotor.
- Intentionally to get Thunder storm power coil. But I cancelled my mind after the seller couldnt provide the power graft statement.

Basically my ride is running stock, except handling has been enhanced. Well, I still find tuning to my suspension set up. It tends to be abit of understeer, I reckon the front strut bar or maybe some toe in/out adjustment.

Clocked 185+Km/h few times.

When my stock I didnt really try the max, but it hit 175km/h very quick, after that feeling like riding a sampan, very dangerous.

Not going to do BOT, as cons > pros. Stay NA or maybe next move will be MT gearbox. lol

Thanks for reading.
 

vr2turbo

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If you are a handling and cornering kaki, get UHP tyre like PS3. Ecopia are eco entry level tyres only....
 

^pomen_GTR^

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May 13, 2010
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ixeo

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ATF cooler? come i sell you one i have collecting dust. Denso one. RM50 cheap cheap take it and go.

Unless you drive at full throttle ~3 minutes every time, sustained full load on the gearbox constantly. You don't need it. So for example if you do track days you will need it, or you stand on the pedal while travelling on the north south highway or Kesas highway.
 

^pomen_GTR^

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A Post Every 5 Mins

When driving on bumpy road, my car tends to have kruk kruk kruk noise from the front right suspension.

Foreman jacked up the car and shaked the wheel but found nothing's wrong.

He can't feel any freeplay on the wheel.

Anyone knows why? Would lower arm bush be the problem?

Without freeplay on wheel but still got the noise how to check?

Thanks,
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