Are Lightweight Rims worth the investment?

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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that's my point la. rolling diameter is 5% different.. haiyo.. ok let's just drop this chain of thought already


You bough ori? Can teach how to see if ori or not?
Bro, you're wrong, wheels diameter is different but rolling diameter in that video 2 is NOT 5% different! As I said earlier, the 18 is actually 1% bigger rolling diameter yet generates more whp.

In video 3, one of the lighter rim is also exactly same diameter and tire size so again exactly same rolling diameter.
 

sweelt

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that's my point la. rolling diameter is 5% different.. haiyo.. ok let's just drop this chain of thought already


You bough ori? Can teach how to see if ori or not?
Ori or not...susah to differentiate just by look.
Like mine ssr type c.
Rim weight is 3.85kg , not too unbelievable cheap.
And trust between buyer and seller.
 
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Izso

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Ori or not...susah to differentiate just by look.
Like mine ssr type c.
Rim weight is 3.85kg , not too unbelievable cheap.
And trust between buyer and seller.
That's insanely light for a 15". Good stuff bro
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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Ori or not...susah to differentiate just by look.
Like mine ssr type c.
Rim weight is 3.85kg , not too unbelievable cheap.
And trust between buyer and seller.
That's insanely light for a 15". Good stuff bro
The spec on paper for 15' is not that light. It's around 9.3-9.7lbs or 4.2-4.4kg. Still very light nonetheless. The 15' which is under 4kg as far as I know is only Racing Hart CP035 at about 3.9kg.
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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it is similar to searching a needle in a haystack
Not really la. I found the links above just within a few mins of browsing in FB/mudah. Just check them out, P1 is also very lightweight around 4+kg. I would've gotten them myself if it's 5x114.3.
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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For street use, NO. Buy the best tyres you can afford, makes more difference.

Limpeh speak from experience. Limpeh used original Rays TE37, now riding on Enkei RPF1. Unless you on the track and trying to shave 2 tenths of a second from your lap time. TE37 was the 3rd lightest wheel available for my size. The CE28N was lightest, followed by the SSR Type C, and then the TE37. I can only say not worth spending that much on it.

And NMGH (brownie points for those who know what I'm saying), RPF1 damn soft, easy to bend on LJ roads in KL. TE37 and SSR Type C...haha.. forged 1 piece wheels just crack. Can't repair. If you're buying used forged wheels inspect it with a magnifying glass to look out for micro fractures.

Advanti rims are great value for money for the weight they come in with.
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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For street use, NO. Buy the best tyres you can afford, makes more difference.

Limpeh speak from experience. Limpeh used original Rays TE37, now riding on Enkei RPF1. Unless you on the track and trying to shave 2 tenths of a second from your lap time. TE37 was the 3rd lightest wheel available for my size. The CE28N was lightest, followed by the SSR Type C, and then the TE37. I can only say not worth spending that much on it.

And NMGH (brownie points for those who know what I'm saying), RPF1 damn soft, easy to bend on LJ roads in KL. TE37 and SSR Type C...haha.. forged 1 piece wheels just crack. Can't repair. If you're buying used forged wheels inspect it with a magnifying glass to look out for micro fractures.

Advanti rims are great value for money for the weight they come in with.
Yeah the prices for those JDM super lightweight wheels are mostly too high. I have only ever bought 2 forged lighweight wheels, previously 17' Prodrive GC07 and currently used 18' Volk F-Winning Zero. I never bought any wheels over 2.5k/set coz just not willing to spend more than that. The GC07 was the most expensive for me at around 2.4 or 2.3k if not mistaken, bought in 2012 then sold in 2018 at 2k. Both forged wheels are holding well though despite them more than 10 yrs old.

I also use a set of 17' Konig Hypergram now. Almost as light as RPF1 but less than half the price, bought in almost new condition. Excellent value for money but not sure how strong they are, probably similar to RPF1 because same technology.
 

sanekit

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For street use, NO. Buy the best tyres you can afford, makes more difference.

Limpeh speak from experience. Limpeh used original Rays TE37, now riding on Enkei RPF1. Unless you on the track and trying to shave 2 tenths of a second from your lap time. TE37 was the 3rd lightest wheel available for my size. The CE28N was lightest, followed by the SSR Type C, and then the TE37. I can only say not worth spending that much on it.

And NMGH (brownie points for those who know what I'm saying), RPF1 damn soft, easy to bend on LJ roads in KL. TE37 and SSR Type C...haha.. forged 1 piece wheels just crack. Can't repair. If you're buying used forged wheels inspect it with a magnifying glass to look out for micro fractures.

Advanti rims are great value for money for the weight they come in with.
i agree. but for those with larger than 17" wheels, it would be a huge benefit. if 15", just go get advanti or those auto option thailand rims. auto option are quite good and reputable 'replicas' eventho it doesnt really get close to the original weight. but durability compare to cheapo 500 bucks taiwan rims, auto option is better. price is close to advanti's.
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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i agree. but for those with larger than 17" wheels, it would be a huge benefit. if 15", just go get advanti or those auto option thailand rims. auto option are quite good and reputable 'replicas' eventho it doesnt really get close to the original weight. but durability compare to cheapo 500 bucks taiwan rims, auto option is better. price is close to advanti's.
Auto Option is much cheaper than Advanti Storm I think. It's also normal weight, so 15x7' is about 7kg/pc while Storm is like 5kg?
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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i agree. but for those with larger than 17" wheels, it would be a huge benefit. if 15", just go get advanti or those auto option thailand rims. auto option are quite good and reputable 'replicas' eventho it doesnt really get close to the original weight. but durability compare to cheapo 500 bucks taiwan rims, auto option is better. price is close to advanti's.
Of course, bigger rims, bigger weight difference. But still don’t justify spending on forged versus advanti flow formed DST range. Which, Enkei EPF1 is flow formed as well.

if advanti made such good wheels back then I would have brought them. Design looks good too. Anyway now on 18” rubbers alone cost 2k... FML, not changing wheels. Can’t even bring myself to splurge on PS4.

I was driving a 5 series for 2 days on 19” with 40 profile fronts and 35 profile rears. I’m like, WHY, 18” would have been fine. This low profile madness isn’t workable in KL LJ roads. I managed to bent 2 stock rims of mine even on 40 & 45 profile. Of course my one of my RPF1 was bent on 50 profile.
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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Of course, bigger rims, bigger weight difference. But still don’t justify spending on forged versus advanti flow formed DST range. Which, Enkei EPF1 is flow formed as well.

if advanti made such good wheels back then I would have brought them. Design looks good too. Anyway now on 18” rubbers alone cost 2k... FML, not changing wheels. Can’t even bring myself to splurge on PS4.

I was driving a 5 series for 2 days on 19” with 40 profile fronts and 35 profile rears. I’m like, WHY, 18” would have been fine. This low profile madness isn’t workable in KL LJ roads. I managed to bent 2 stock rims of mine even on 40 & 45 profile. Of course my one of my RPF1 was bent on 50 profile.
Some mild bends are unavoidable, as long as still can balance without vibrations then still ok. I also prefer using tires with sidewall height at least around 10cm, don't want to go lower than 9.5cm.
 

DNGFashion

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TE37 and SSR Type C...haha.. forged 1 piece wheels just crack. Can't repair. If you're buying used forged wheels inspect it with a magnifying glass to look out for micro fractures.

Advanti rims are great value for money for the weight they come in with.
I was driving a 5 series for 2 days on 19” with 40 profile fronts and 35 profile rears. I’m like, WHY, 18” would have been fine. This low profile madness isn’t workable in KL LJ roads. I managed to bent 2 stock rims of mine even on 40 & 45 profile. Of course my one of my RPF1 was bent on 50 profile.
Enkei rpf1 rim bents on 50 profile, I was shocked to hear that. Worst still, this was my first time hearing a genuine experience of forged rim cracked :O

damn pain at the heart and wallet severe bleeding
 

ixeo

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ixeo

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Enkei rpf1 rim bents on 50 profile, I was shocked to hear that. Worst still, this was my first time hearing a genuine experience of forged rim cracked :O

damn pain at the heart and wallet severe bleeding
Not my forged rims fracture, but I've seen SSR Type C in person with micro fractures. Flow formed wheels can still be repaired. RPF1 with 55 profile also bent...

Including myself, 4 of my friends run RPF1, 3 sets on 15", 1 set on 17"... all of us also bent before...
 
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sanekit

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Auto Option is much cheaper than Advanti Storm I think. It's also normal weight, so 15x7' is about 7kg/pc while Storm is like 5kg?
depends on the design. i've seen auto option rpf1 design weight less than 6kg.

advanti only this design weights 4.9kg for 15" no? i searched other design, 79B storm S1 also about 10lbs (4.6kg). but i dont really like the design on advantis.
 

lsm1991

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depends on the design. i've seen auto option rpf1 design weight less than 6kg.

advanti only this design weights 4.9kg for 15" no? i searched other design, 79B storm S1 also about 10lbs (4.6kg). but i dont really like the design on advantis.
tahan the storm series design, function over form!
 

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Haiya.

Use black steelies for lightweight and no heart ache when damaged. Then use Duct tape and tape your own special design on top for wannabe power.
 

ixeo

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the 79B storm S1, maybe i dont mind having it. haha
Nice wor. I wouldn't mind having it. If it's cheaper than RPF1, definitely take these.
 
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koshin

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lower unsprung mass will always be a benefit.
- more quicker response when accelerating and braking
- you might feel steering is sharper/lighter

disadvantages - potentially easier to crack and break (depending on brand and tyre profile) when impacted by potholes and stuff.

Just make sure you opt for a reputable brand and model.
we no pro racer so we dont really feel much.. and comparing the 8MR from RG to taiwan i don think can feel anything also. rims are all bling bling la. sometime i wonder does it justify the value. The EF with 15" regamaster also like meh even on sepang. just buy any rim you think its nice and you really want la. no point buying light like nike air but fugly and everyday moan about it. so... like i said its not worth it- unless you track. but even u track you wanna go for strong rigid rims and not light weight. maybe its just me
 

DNGFashion

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we no pro racer so we dont really feel much.. and comparing the 8MR from RG to taiwan i don think can feel anything also. rims are all bling bling la. sometime i wonder does it justify the value. The EF with 15" regamaster also like meh even on sepang. just buy any rim you think its nice and you really want la. no point buying light like nike air but fugly and everyday moan about it. so... like i said its not worth it- unless you track. but even u track you wanna go for strong rigid rims and not light weight. maybe its just me
just as what ixeo mentioned, buy the best tyres which make more differences:burnout:
 
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ixeo

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I feel 16" is not worth it, because the tyre price is almost same as 17", and 17" is visually nicer. 16" always been the odd duck for tyre sizing and price in Malaysia.
 

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we no pro racer so we dont really feel much.. and comparing the 8MR from RG to taiwan i don think can feel anything also. rims are all bling bling la. sometime i wonder does it justify the value. The EF with 15" regamaster also like meh even on sepang. just buy any rim you think its nice and you really want la. no point buying light like nike air but fugly and everyday moan about it. so... like i said its not worth it- unless you track. but even u track you wanna go for strong rigid rims and not light weight. maybe its just me
I think for track better for strong and light. Since there's less chance to crack it on track why not just get the best performance?
 

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My VR Advanti rims are second hand ones bought from ex colleague. He change rims so I sapu. Hyundai one also second hand ones from Hup Shun. Both also 17" at RM850 per set those days......
 

lsm1991

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It's 8 holes double pcd, or just single pcd 4x114.3 but the other 4 holes are just drilled to reduce weight, like CE28.
8 actual physical lugs... 8 bloody physical lugs... (and no he aint joking)
5x114.3 to 8x88 pcd (and no im not joking either... nothing here makes sense, i dont think there is any sense)

would like to claim, they came with the car, me poorfeg~
 

6UE5t

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oh ya just counted holes. seller typo one lah. all holes looks like it's 114.
It should be just 4x114.3 pcd and the other 4 holes cannot use for nuts because they're just drilled to lighten the weight. That's the main difference between original Japan and fake ones, often the fakes gives double pcd instead.
 

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It should be just 4x114.3 pcd and the other 4 holes cannot use for nuts because they're just drilled to lighten the weight. That's the main difference between original Japan and fake ones, often the fakes gives double pcd instead.
Drill to lighten will weaken the rims.....
 

6UE5t

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6UE5t

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Drill to lighten will weaken the rims.....
Well drilling holes is what Rays does with CE28, Racing Hart with the CP035, and some other famous lighweight wheels.

I noticed my Konig Hypergram also got some extra holes around the hub.
 

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Well drilling holes is what Rays does with CE28, Racing Hart with the CP035, and some other famous lighweight wheels.

I noticed my Konig Hypergram also got some extra holes around the hub.
Those are ready made like that, therefore should be reinforced. Not taking one and simply drill holes in them......hahhahhaha
 
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