My plan is to invest in factory size 15" with PCD 4 x 114.3 lightweight rims, what will be some of the notable differences especially in day to day commute?
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Are Lightweight Rims worth the investment?
- Thread starter DNGFashion
- Start date
lower unsprung mass will always be a benefit.
- more quicker response when accelerating and braking
- you might feel steering is sharper/lighter
disadvantages - potentially easier to crack and break (depending on brand and tyre profile) when impacted by potholes and stuff.
Just make sure you opt for a reputable brand and model.
- more quicker response when accelerating and braking
- you might feel steering is sharper/lighter
disadvantages - potentially easier to crack and break (depending on brand and tyre profile) when impacted by potholes and stuff.
Just make sure you opt for a reputable brand and model.
In addition to the above, theoretically the lower unsprung weight should:
- improve fuel consumption
- prolong durability of suspension parts as they have less weight to control the wheel movements. This also may improve traction marginally.
In short, you won't go wrong by going lighter, just a matter how much you're willing to spend or you can afford, coz the lighter they are usually the more expensive as well.
- improve fuel consumption
- prolong durability of suspension parts as they have less weight to control the wheel movements. This also may improve traction marginally.
In short, you won't go wrong by going lighter, just a matter how much you're willing to spend or you can afford, coz the lighter they are usually the more expensive as well.
I doubt FC will improve much if at all. Lower momentum so the car will potentially slow down faster which changes the way people drive.
Oh and lightweight isn't a matter of cost. It's a matter of how strong. The stronger the lightweight wheel is potentially it'll be more expensive.
Probably if city drive might improve coz the wasted power for the initial pick up is less due to moving lighter wheels? Because on the dyno, lighter wheels can gain a bit more power.
I am talking as a potential customer to buy wheels coz generally the lighter ones are also more expensive. We won't have the means to test or know the comparative strength but we only can test the weight and of course can see the price.
Most importantly IMHO, don't buy fake wheels. Buy original brands.
thanks all.
I'm looking at advanti rims because most aftermarket lightweight rims do not have pcd 4 x 114.3 which renders limited choices.
have you all heard from Kean Lee Hin store at jalan ipoh, which is one of the authorized supplier for Advanti rims?
Will the gap between the fender and the tyre look weird with aftermarket lightweight rims?
I'm looking at advanti rims because most aftermarket lightweight rims do not have pcd 4 x 114.3 which renders limited choices.
have you all heard from Kean Lee Hin store at jalan ipoh, which is one of the authorized supplier for Advanti rims?
Will the gap between the fender and the tyre look weird with aftermarket lightweight rims?
no laaa.. change light weight rims mana ada increase power. It increases response not power! Perhaps a steeper uphill curve but that's about it.
Not all Advantis are light. Look at the series and do your homework first. The Storm series are lightweight. About 4.6kg for the 15" range.
As for gap - it depends on your tyre profile and how the design is like for the wheel. Some wheels like the RPF01 make the whole tyre look small. But then again you never said what size you're upgrading from. So if your stock 16" or 17", then going to 15" will definitely make the gap weird unless you go with big ass profile tyres. But even that looks sorta kinda weird unless you're looking for comfort.
factory size 15" with PCD 4 x 114.3 lightweight rims (stock) :D
storm series doesn't have that PCD specification.
but those specifically are the ones to get
btw the gap.... that one is down to ur height/offset all of that...they will usually allow u to testfit if they have the rims in stock.
- Mar 3, 2005
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4 x 114.3 you just need more time to find, got one just less common than 4x100. SSR Type C and Evo rega master has 114.3. RPF1 don't have. Do you have pic of your stock rim? see see
Proton Iriz 2015 Premium 1.6 in Johor Automatic Hatchback Silver for RM 30,800 - 6450770 - Carlist.my
Proton Iriz 2015 Premium 1.6 in Johor Automatic Hatchback Silver for RM 30,800 - 6450770 - Carlist.my - One Owner Well Maintenance Original Body - Carlist.my
www.carlist.my
you can refer to the link attached, it is the same as my ride.
yes but unfortunate as it doesn't fit
Maybe if you have the time, mod to 5 x 114.3 and suddenly your rim choices exponentially increase.
I have seen a few test comparisons before by some international media. Coz they measure power on wheels, got slight increase when changing to lighter wheels.
Yes, Kean Lee HIn is YHI dealer, Yokohama tyres and YHI deal in a few brands of rims.
Get the correct offset and tyre size, then will look good. Want to rims to look bigger need to get the design with the spokes reaching the edge of the rims....
My son's Swift also now use 15x7 et35 coz it's the best offset to just lineup with the fenders.
Yup despite having lowered with around -1°-1.5° camber, because often cornering a bit hard. All my cars are like this.
Nope, if over inflated it actually should wear off the middle more. All my cars are like this despite different tires, pressures, weight.
I dunno man.
the 2nd and 3rd video examples show a difference in diameter. Hypothetically - If traction wasn't a factor - switching from a 15" to 12" tyre and wheel package would technically increase acceleration for a car. However if the same car switched from 15" to a lighter 15" with the same HP (power), then acceleration should improve which is what I've been saying - response. It doesn't increase HP.
Engineering explained talked about rotational mass - that one I can agree. I'm trying to apply the concept in my head and it's giving my headaches. His bicycle wheel example compares one low profile vs one high profile wheel and according to his theory the higher profile wheel will be quicker to roll down the hill even though both are the same diameter. But in a real car situation - a smaller wheel bigger profile tyre wouldn't deliver the same kind of blistering performance feel due to tyre flex and probably other things I don't understand.
Right now I'm talking about improving performance by means of response, ie-acceleration resulting from changing 15" heavy to 15" lightweight rims.
Can an asian dude with good maths please come in explain to us if this improves HP as well? Because I don't think it does. I agree it improves acceleration because the rotational mass is less but does higher acceleration = higher HP? Or just less resistance to the torque needed to turn that mass?
The difference in diameter is just the wheels but not the overall diameter, at least not significantly. But the weight difference are significant there. This is talking about transferring power to the ground. If there's no additional power going to the ground to move the car quicker then what does?? Power at the engine is the same but there's not as much loss used to rotate the mass of the wheels hence enabling the power more to move the car.
I suck at math and only loves to look at the outcome.
However, since we all agree that gb eats up some hp from the engine thus making hp at the wheel lower to hp at the flywheel...i am guessing whatever parts (including the rims) which are there to transfer the power from the engine to the road will have impact in hp figure. Its a matter of how much.
Would be interesting to see a dyno chart though. Then do the dyno again...this time removes the drive wheel disc brakes...i would love to see the outcome.
Ok I'm beginning to see the disconnect now. What you're saying here is you'll potentially regain some lost power. You won't gain power like what was said originally. This much I can agree! But I also did say the gains is minimal in the beginning.
Diameter of the whole wheel package (tyres and all) between a 20" and 18" is pretty significant. Based on the dimension given by the bloke in the 2nd video, it's roughly 5% difference. That alone would contribute to the slower acceleration on top of the wheel weight. Anyway, the 2nd and 3rd video has too many discrepancies. What we should do is make a video comparison between same diameter, same tyre and just a difference in wheel weight.
Anyway thinking too much about this is giving me a bloody headache. I'm done thinking. Hahaha! We all generally agree that lightweight means more better.
You know what we should do? We should start a ZTH video channel where members get together to properly mythbust or discuss topics like this and share on Youtube.
Cuz I sure would like to see for myself how this'll turn out on a wheel dyno and hub dyno.
love the discussions here.
Maybe we need to define what is HP?
HP rated at engine or HP rated effectively on the ground (BHP)?
Engineering Explained has a very good point on rotational mass. Having a lightweight piston, crankshaft, driveshaft, flywheel and all parts that delivered power to the ground essentially increases BHP and probably slight increment in HP rated at engine for the same engine capacity.
Maybe we need to define what is HP?
HP rated at engine or HP rated effectively on the ground (BHP)?
Engineering Explained has a very good point on rotational mass. Having a lightweight piston, crankshaft, driveshaft, flywheel and all parts that delivered power to the ground essentially increases BHP and probably slight increment in HP rated at engine for the same engine capacity.
erm..... hp vs bhp??
i think you want to discuss crank hp (i believe this what you are referencing to as is the bhp) vs wheel hp (at the wheels)
hp vs bhp, no real point thinking bout it
Nope the 5% difference he mentioned is not the rolling diameter difference but he expected around 5% difference in dyno results! The 20' tyre he used was 255/35/20 while stock 18' should be 235/50/18 which is actually bigger rolling diameter than the 20' tires! So despite running bigger rolling diameter, it actually got 20whp more than the heavier 20' setup with slightly smaller rolling diameter. To me it's pretty conclusive. I had seen many other tests long time ago but just cannot find them anymore.
If the factory can sell direct, then okay. Like my ex company, the factory only manufacture for export and sales to local sales company for local sales. Even factory staff who wants to buy the goods, need to get then through the sales company as the factory cannot sell direct...
the 5% I'm talking about the size difference based on tyre profile and wheel size. Not what the dyno was referring to.
It's not conclusive to me. But to each his own.
Hmm I think that should not matter much if at all as long as the rolling diameter is about the same. Weight on the other hand plays a significant role.
Take ur time if u really interested with aftermarket.
But not much fancy choices for 4x114.
Took me 3 mth to search for right ssr type-c 4x114.
that's my point la. rolling diameter is 5% different.. haiyo.. ok let's just drop this chain of thought already
You bough ori? Can teach how to see if ori or not?
Found a 15 P1 also at very reasonable price:
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