Any experience with throttle controller?

[A4XRBJ1]

I know not all of you are on drive-by-wire, but has anybody experience with a throttle controller, eg the Blitz throttle controller BLITZ POWER USA SITE / THROTTLE CONTROLLER?


Tq,

Andreas

 

[syong888]

Bro, it is not not necessary coz the feature is quick similiar to stock, which is the normal > sport > super sport setting

Go for boost controller in stead :wavey:

 

[A4XRBJ1]

Bro, it is not not necessary coz the feature is quick similiar to stock, which is the normal > sport > super sport setting

Go for boost controller in stead :wavey:

Steve,


thanks for the info man. I'm missing a proper manual, can't read the Japanese stuff. Have to find it somewhere online.

Why should I go for boost controller? Upping boost without a retune is not a good idea, the OEM part is controlling spikes quite well.


BTW, can you PM me what kind of changes you did to your Evo X? Especially which exhaust you built on?


Tq,

Andreas

 

[syong888]

Hehe, after installing boost controller, then retune

BLITZ POWER USA SITE / SBC i-Color

Some links to service manual:

RapidShare: 1-CLICK Web hosting - Easy Filehosting

http://www.onlinefreeebooks.net/aut...ution-x-technical-information-manual-pdf.html

 

[A4XRBJ1]

So what's the big deal about installing a boost controller, still don't get it. Boost remains the same, just a better solenoid to control max. boost, right?

Please enlighten me

 

[lude]

Steve,


thanks for the info man. I'm missing a proper manual, can't read the Japanese stuff. Have to find it somewhere online.

same here.. mine keeps showing some "AFS OFF" indicator..

 

[A4XRBJ1]

same here.. mine keeps showing some "AFS OFF" indicator..

I think had this too last week or so. I accidently came on one of the button near the handbrake, which says AFS or so, this is how I turned it off.

Just press the button there and see if it helps.


Andreas

 

[mynnDAWG]

to me any type of throttle controller is a waste of money...yes u'll feel slight increase in power but its all in the mind actually, if u know what i mean..

its better if u opt for boost controller for real increase in power...

 

[A4XRBJ1]

to me any type of throttle controller is a waste of money...yes u'll feel slight increase in power but its all in the mind actually, if u know what i mean..

its better if u opt for boost controller for real increase in power...

Not sure what Evo you drive, but for the electronically controlled tb's Evo's it's actually a real big difference. If you ever tuned a car for your own pleasure, enriching it for faster acceleration is crucial once your rate of throttle body opening is increasing dramatically whilst in the milliseconds time area. This is when you push your right foot on the gas, you want to have immediate response because it's either an emergency or you want to show somebody the power of the car.

Why do people go for lighter flywheels for example or are looking for higher boost in lower rpm sections on turbo charged cars? Because it's the difference between first and second place.

Boost is for discussion at your local pub because it's mainly responsible for your max hp number that everybody likes to discuss. I'd rather have a WRC car with 300hp only and would still all your 500-600hp asses all along the street with it's sheer acceleration.

With a linear, old fashioned wire pushing your TB open it's different, tuning has to be done like I wrote above, flywheel, reducing the masses on the rotating wheels, enriching your car on the special accel map.

With our Evo X it's all electronically controlled, this is where a boost controller kicks in delivering a non linear performance to whatever you do with your right foot.

As Steve highlighted, it's not making sense from accel point of view as we do have sport mode and super-sport mode. But it can make sense from a gas saving eco mode, as is highlighted eg on Blitz description of their throttle controller.


Thanks for listening, hope I made my points clear and was not too technically,

Andreas

 

[lude]

I think had this too last week or so. I accidently came on one of the button near the handbrake, which says AFS or so, this is how I turned it off.

Just press the button there and see if it helps.


Andreas

yup that button turns off the AFS and when its turned off the indicator doesnt blink.. just like the ASC when its turned off.. the "ASC off" indicator lights up..

my problem is more of a blinking "AFS off" indicator.. read somewhere its probably caused by a faulty steering angle sensor

 

[lanevo6]

Andreas,
This statement i like the most. We have the same thinking. Thats y my car also can stick with all those 500hp monster on street. . And my flywheel looks like plastic

Boost is for discussion at your local pub because it's mainly responsible for your max hp number that everybody likes to discuss. I'd rather have a WRC car with 300hp only and would still all your 500-600hp asses all along the street with it's sheer acceleration.

For cars with e-throttle, this is crucial. I think you know what you want. Oh ya aluminium intercooler piping will help your reponse as well.(not sure if the X comes with it.

With our Evo X it's all electronically controlled, this is where a boost controller kicks in delivering a non linear performance to whatever you do with your right foot.

Good luck with your mod :wavey:

 

[A4XRBJ1]

Thanks Lanevo6, finally somebody who understands how to get a fast car. The FMIC is actually a problem on the Evo X (like in all other Evo's), whereas it doesn't keep the low temp once you add boost to it.

That's why I'm either opting for a PerrinPerformance FMIC or for water injection, both will keep the intake temperature down.


Regards,

Andreas

 

[PabloIceman]

Andreas,
This statement i like the most. We have the same thinking. Thats y my car also can stick with all those 500hp monster on street. . And my flywheel looks like plastic

Boost is for discussion at your local pub because it's mainly responsible for your max hp number that everybody likes to discuss. I'd rather have a WRC car with 300hp only and would still all your 500-600hp asses all along the street with it's sheer acceleration.

For cars with e-throttle, this is crucial. I think you know what you want. Oh ya aluminium intercooler piping will help your reponse as well.(not sure if the X comes with it.

With our Evo X it's all electronically controlled, this is where a boost controller kicks in delivering a non linear performance to whatever you do with your right foot.

Good luck with your mod :wavey:

No wonder so fast laa ...

 

[A4XRBJ1]

No wonder so fast laa ...

It's hard to be fast in MY, when it takes only 6-7 seconds until your legally in trouble on every street including highway.

 

[azizi.aziz]

Thanks Lanevo6, finally somebody who understands how to get a fast car. The FMIC is actually a problem on the Evo X (like in all other Evo's), whereas it doesn't keep the low temp once you add boost to it.

That's why I'm either opting for a PerrinPerformance FMIC or for water injection, both will keep the intake temperature down.


Regards,

Andreas

Andreas, mind to share a lil bit...
At what range of temperature consider good while boosting??? as you said the FMIC layout doesn't keep the low air temp....make me wonder why the Mitsubishi Engineers doesn't rectify this problem?

And if we've installed Perrin FMIC or other aftermarket FMIC or water injection what the air temp will be???

Thanks for sharing...

 

[A4XRBJ1]

Andreas, mind to share a lil bit...
At what range of temperature consider good while boosting??? as you said the FMIC layout doesn't keep the low air temp....make me wonder why the Mitsubishi Engineers doesn't rectify this problem?

And if we've installed Perrin FMIC or other aftermarket FMIC or water injection what the air temp will be???

Thanks for sharing...

Bro Aziz,

easy to share. Basically you want to stay as close as you can to ambient temperature, which is already very hot in MY. Mitsu Engineers did a good job on FMIC from fromer Evo's to Evo X, this is why the car is performing as good as the former ones whilst having the extra weight on it (I think 150 kgs).

Why does it make the car so much faster when the max hp stay the same? It's about the area under the power curve, not the max hp as stated in another article already. Can I maintain close to full max hp all over my rev band or only in one small area of rpm, the rest I do lose a lot of power?

As in real world examples, please refer to this excellent article from PerrinPerformance where they're giving insights into their different design of the IC, proofing with some numbers that their solution is stable at the intake temps:

Perrin Performance - EVO X FMIC Test and Tune

So back to your question of why did the Mitsu boys don't do better with the IC? I just quote Jeff from PerrinPerformance on that one, it's easy to answer:

"Well the stock parts at stock boost levels work pretty well. But start turning up the boost and then things start to see their faults"

Somehow most Evo owners go the route for increasing their boost, which is why it turns out that the current system is then becoming restrictive (besides the fact that exhaust for example has to qualify for all worldwide noise and cat efficiency tests, under all conditions).

The above mentioned link has a small number comparisons which is showing that at 7300 rpm you have a difference of 24 degrees of Fahrenheit. Here's another quote from the article:

"So with some scary data behind us we thought, our IC must be able to do much better! It does and it deals with that extreme Pre-IC temps pretty well. The Pre-IC temps were still hot but about 20F cooler. First runs peaked at 380F, and the last run peaked at 400F. Well that is a good start. This drop in temp could be from the IC being less restrictive than the OEM core. We saw about .9psi vs 1.5psi drop. So the turbo has to work less to make the same boost, more efficient! Now the data that really matters. The Post-IC temps were much more inline, but still about 20F higher than we normally see. The first run showed a peak of 114F and the last run hit 120F. This was huge improvement. With a good tuning tool this could be worth a little extra timing and more power! Or, if nothing else a safer setup. EGT's also improved peaking from 1616F in the first run and 1636F. So overall the PERRIN FMIC ran more than 30F cooler on the IC oulet temps, and almost 80F cooler! All that means a happier safer engine."


Hope this helps,

Andreas

 

[jameswwt]

Bro Aziz,

easy to share. Basically you want to stay as close as you can to ambient temperature, which is already very hot in MY. Mitsu Engineers did a good job on FMIC from fromer Evo's to Evo X, this is why the car is performing as good as the former ones whilst having the extra weight on it (I think 150 kgs).

Why does it make the car so much faster when the max hp stay the same? It's about the area under the power curve, not the max hp as stated in another article already. Can I maintain close to full max hp all over my rev band or only in one small area of rpm, the rest I do lose a lot of power?

As in real world examples, please refer to this excellent article from PerrinPerformance where they're giving insights into their different design of the IC, proofing with some numbers that their solution is stable at the intake temps:

Perrin Performance - EVO X FMIC Test and Tune

So back to your question of why did the Mitsu boys don't do better with the IC? I just quote Jeff from PerrinPerformance on that one, it's easy to answer:

"Well the stock parts at stock boost levels work pretty well. But start turning up the boost and then things start to see their faults"

Somehow most Evo owners go the route for increasing their boost, which is why it turns out that the current system is then becoming restrictive (besides the fact that exhaust for example has to qualify for all worldwide noise and cat efficiency tests, under all conditions).

The above mentioned link has a small number comparisons which is showing that at 7300 rpm you have a difference of 24 degrees of Fahrenheit. Here's another quote from the article:

"So with some scary data behind us we thought, our IC must be able to do much better! It does and it deals with that extreme Pre-IC temps pretty well. The Pre-IC temps were still hot but about 20F cooler. First runs peaked at 380F, and the last run peaked at 400F. Well that is a good start. This drop in temp could be from the IC being less restrictive than the OEM core. We saw about .9psi vs 1.5psi drop. So the turbo has to work less to make the same boost, more efficient! Now the data that really matters. The Post-IC temps were much more inline, but still about 20F higher than we normally see. The first run showed a peak of 114F and the last run hit 120F. This was huge improvement. With a good tuning tool this could be worth a little extra timing and more power! Or, if nothing else a safer setup. EGT's also improved peaking from 1616F in the first run and 1636F. So overall the PERRIN FMIC ran more than 30F cooler on the IC oulet temps, and almost 80F cooler! All that means a happier safer engine."


Hope this helps,

Andreas

Wow...Great sharing and really longing to see the German Green Monsterssssss on TT.....hehe

 

[A4XRBJ1]

Wow...Great sharing and really longing to see the German Green Monsterssssss on TT.....hehe

Well, willing to share more if you keep pressing the "Thank you button" like this

I've lot's of experience in performance tuning, even though it wasn't a turbo but a supercharger the same main principles apply.

There's so much more you can do with easy tuning for more hp!

Andreas

 

[drift_devil05]

bro andreas... unfprtunately allow to press once only

 

[lanevo6]

Thanks Lanevo6, finally somebody who understands how to get a fast car. The FMIC is actually a problem on the Evo X (like in all other Evo's), whereas it doesn't keep the low temp once you add boost to it.

That's why I'm either opting for a PerrinPerformance FMIC or for water injection, both will keep the intake temperature down.


Regards,

Andreas

Not sure about the X but the E6 I/C still can take additional of 0.3 to 0.4 boost and max at 380hp tested.
i keep my intake temp low with carbon airbox and my piping has aquamist for higher boost.

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No wonder so fast laa ...

If i drive ur car it will be faster and the fastest