4g93T gsr engine rebuild, need advice

[speed2horizon]

speed, just for discussion and not arguing.

I do get your picture. You see the scenario is like this.. You have pearl straw (biggest intercooler) and vitagen straw (smallest intercooler). You and me (having the same engine) sitting next to each other, u choose vitagen straw and I choose pearl straw.. COunt to 3 then start blowing.. "Definately a good blow job will do the job well".. For sure you will win since you have the small straw to get more bubbles up or air into water.. But in real scenario is not like that, as I start my car, I dont pecut.. The air is flowing filling in regular... It is like I'm blowing air to the straw but not strong enough to create a bubble.. then when I pecut (count to 3) my air into the water will be more than u..

Another thing, i was thinking.. the best design for piping not only shortest, but should be small to bigger where biggest next to TB. This will create a air pressure. Another thing did crossed my mind.. put in the small fan into the pipe.. so practically pulling air from the intercooler to TB fast enough.. hahaha.. just an idea..

The thing that will create the pressure is the turbo... NOt the piping. Bigger volume requires more air to fill in.

Regarding the turbo blowing before rev. Please remember that ur engine is also consuming air. The air consumes is more that what ur turbo is blowing on idle and cruise... That's why ur pressure gauge indicates negative pressure.

All I said has been personal experience and not entirely theory. It's the knowledge I gain along my path of BOT till today also with the help of some professional tuners and underground racers.

Anyway... it's ok, as long as u are happy with the set up. Go ahead.... Cheers mate...

 

[SimpleGuy]

I tot the whole charge pipe never b in vacum? The reading from the boost gauge shows vacum at idle and crusing is bcoz the sensor u place it after the TB. Try to full throttle at 1k RPM c wether it still vacum? If really vacum, tat means the turbo really produce less then wat ur engine nid ^^

 

[speed2horizon]

At cruise, tb not close. Still negative. The fact is, turbo requires a certain pressure n flow to be effective. Before it starts pressurize the charge pipe. Different turbo will have different combination. Can check from the compressor mapping. That's what I was trying to say. Big intercooler require more time to pressurize. If it's not -ve, it should be 0 for a a while before it starts boosting. That's lag...

Wether the whole charge pipe is vacumn or not, plunk in another meter before tb and u'll know... Lolz... Cheers...

 

[jo1]

Lag is over rated... use the stick place in the middle of the car to counter lag unless you're driving a two speed auto on the road.

 

[contreasjun27]

Lag is over rated... use the stick place in the middle of the car to counter lag unless you're driving a two speed auto on the road.

well if you want to drive a turbo car then must prepare for the turbo lag...this is something im not used to when changing to a bigger turbine but heck look on the other hand bigger snails=turbo lag haha if not change to small turbine loh haha

 

[fscheon]

sorry to interrupt guys, wanted to ask some stupid questions....any1 knows after welding the transfer case axle, do we still need to fill it up with gearbox oil? or was it the LSD type of oil? how many litres does the CK GSR with transfer case gearbox requires? seems that i fill up 2 litre it's still have way much more to go.....further more there is 1 more question does the transfer case blocks waja / gen2 sub-frame? any1 face this issue before? it seems that after i fitting in the engine the sub-frame from waja/gen2 seems relatively low & it seems like have no clearance at all for then engine moving front & forth during engaging gears....1 more final question any1 using evo4 subframe?

hope u guys can help out abit >.<

 

[terial]

hi guys . im new here ..nice thread .
i have a question to ask all the master ..
if i wanna bore my cylinder to 2100 cc .. what piston and rod can i use ?

 

[fscheon]

hmmm guys would like to enquire do u guys have any clutch issue like mine, my first & 2nd gear seems like the clutch is unable to grip the flywheel properlly sort of like lag afew seconds hmm not sure why oso.....occationally i have problems with my clutch it have this stupid grinding sound suspect could be as per attached picture...not sure weather the master clutch pump on proton is same as the master clutch pump on CK GSR.....any 1 have any idea what is the size of both master clutch pump? I'm using stock gen2 master clutch pump cyclinder + gsr slave pump on top of the gearbox & steel braided hose for the clutch line....however this stupid grinding sound is irritating + causing my gear1 & gear2 to slip very much.....gear3 onwards it works perfectly fine....hmmm superbly wierd not sure why oso......occationally oso have some wierd sound when fully turn my wheel + reversing....not sure why oso....lolz

 

[GSR06]

The piping length and diameter plays a big part in determining whether you would gain more power or becoming less power...bigger turbo means more power but if it's not tuned properly, it also means more turbo lag...those cars with very big intercooler, it is nice to see but setback, high turbo lag due to the volume isn't optimized according to factory settings...therefore, turbo size + piping length and diameter + intercooler size determine the overall performance.

The thing that will create the pressure is the turbo... NOt the piping. Bigger volume requires more air to fill in.

Regarding the turbo blowing before rev. Please remember that ur engine is also consuming air. The air consumes is more that what ur turbo is blowing on idle and cruise... That's why ur pressure gauge indicates negative pressure.

All I said has been personal experience and not entirely theory. It's the knowledge I gain along my path of BOT till today also with the help of some professional tuners and underground racers.

Anyway... it's ok, as long as u are happy with the set up. Go ahead.... Cheers mate...

 

[Mat Indera]

IMO,
9.0:1 cr wiseco pistons is the better choice. As it is forged from 2618 aluminium that can withstand > 2bar of boost. Even if its made from the higher silicone 4032 aluminum still its far superior than any factory/oem.. (out of topic abit)..

Using 9.0cr means u can achieve higher HP/torq figures compared to using 8.6/8.0cr without having to boost as high. .
As for the MLS gasket if it's up to u. But remember, the more thicker the gasket the higher the risk of detonation can occur from the increased "squish" volume.
The head gasket will lower the compression more depending on it's thickness.
But Normally i think it's easier to find or gsr the 1.5mm compared to 1.2/1.6/etc in the market. so just proceed with the 1.5mm gasket. I myself are using 1.5mm.

U don't have to worry about the piston hitting the valves, wiseco's 4g93/b18c pistons have generous valve relief pockets. Even if u use hi duration cams, ur valves would still clear the piston dome.

But i u want to use Nitrous Oxide/NOS better use lower (8.6cr) and thicker gaskets.

Only my opinion from experience.. But the piston can still ht the valves if not installed properly :hmmmm:

Why worry about CR for turbo car. The matter is perssure inside cylinder once piston reach TDC. Than you boost 0.5, or 1.0 or 1.5 or 2.0. Which one is high cylinder pressure 8.0 CR with 0.5 bar dengan 0.7 cr with 1.0 bar??.

=> PV=nRT

 

[haizrul.azmi]

evo2 into perdana?ADVICES GUYZ