4g15(Wira) covert 4g18 stroker kit

[parakey]

Bro. Izso, Bar in engine probably can hide. Fit Roll cage, you know who get shot first.....hhahhahaha

Hmm .. would it not possible to custom a roll cage to be hidden within the ABC pillars?

 

[RENESIS VIII]

4G63T transplant in a C91 chassis is just asking for trouble. Accident, cannot claim assuming you survive. That chassis was not designed for that much power either so expect it to crack over time. Nose heavy too.

I've seen a C99 Putra chassis crack with a 4G93 NA modded car. 4G63 in a C91? Good luck seriously.

But since you're gonna go illegal, might as well spot weld the chassis while you're at it.

4G15 Wira not C97 chassis?

4G93 NA mods with some cusco bars here and there. This was when UltraRacing was still new in the market. Spot welded chassis, solid mounts and stripped. On wheel it was over 300bhp+ and even with LSD it was twitchy. I never drove it because the owner was relatively short. Had a full bucket with modded brackets to cater for his height. As for the mod list, it was extensive to put it mildly. Without the standalone the idle speed was 1k-2k-1k-2k-1k God knows how he drove it like that for the time without the standalone.

The funniest story about this car was his bumper canards were installed at an overly aggressive angle and during sepang, the front bumper snapped off. The fella claims over "downforce" the front

Anyway in the end car was scrapped I think, or was it sold? The front cross member area had tears (don't know the actual name of the area but it was near there) and everytime the fella revved can physically see that tear flexing. If he did sell the car, I pity the new owner. It would only be a matter of time before the car becomes condemned. Hopefully the new owner was smart enough to demod and use normal mounts. Too much stress to the chassis la I think.

Just because of the weakness in chassis, the whole engine is wasted... Too bad... I wonder if the owner manage to source original Mitsubishi chassis like those of CA4A Mirage Cyborg or Mirage Asti, will these chassis be tougher than then C99?

 

[vr2turbo]

Hmm .. would it not possible to custom a roll cage to be hidden within the ABC pillars?

No place to hide....

 

[parakey]

No place to hide....

Referring to the attached picture of Proton Suprima. Note that some bars align to the pillars.

I don't mean a full fledged roll cage with tubular bars but perhaps modify a bit using flatter, slimmer tensile ones which can later be hidden with the pillars' plastic covers. Roof has ample space to add tubular ones. It's a bit like reinforcing all those pillars and connecting each to the strengthened roof. Should act similar to a light duty roll cage. Likely won't need to wear a helmet driving this.

He He .. with those bars added, car will be heavier. No more pickup :damnmate:

Edit:
LOL .. don't mind me. After re-reading this post, I feel as though my head got knocked on one of those bars. :stupid:

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

If going illegal, why stop and spot weld, add iron bar and strengthen.....lol

---------- Post added at 04:56 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:55 PM ----------



The Rally one or street one......Rally sure crack loh.....hhahhahahhah

the strongest proton chassis was the one and only version Satria GTi R3 edition...true double spotweld (i think it was more like triple spotweld on some area)

Thanks for sharing.

Still we shouldn't place all the blame on the engine upgrade. With more power available, the desire to speed increases

The driver behind the wheel has to share some of the blame. Chassis damage results from aggressive driving. Stuff like extreme corner Gs or high speeds over undulated surfaces. The chassis is severely flexed. Over time, this flex translates to permanent damage.

yeah, I feel the fender bars are particularly important. Mind sharing what other steps you took to stiffen the car? I recently autofoamed my side sills. Car is so much nicer to ride in now.

i use fender bar+4point strut bar....but didnt believe much on the undercarriage bar especially the one hooked to the already sturdy engine subframe....


autofoam is good start...u can upgrade using the track package....

Hmm .. would it not possible to custom a roll cage to be hidden within the ABC pillars?

Referring to the attached picture of Proton Suprima. Note that some bars align to the pillars.

I don't mean a full fledged roll cage with tubular bars but perhaps modify a bit using flatter, slimmer tensile ones which can later be hidden with the pillars' plastic covers. Roof has ample space to add tubular ones. It's a bit like reinforcing all those pillars and connecting each to the strengthened roof. Should act similar to a light duty roll cage. Likely won't need to wear a helmet driving this.

He He .. with those bars added, car will be heavier. No more pickup :damnmate:

Edit:
LOL .. don't mind me. After re-reading this post, I feel as though my head got knocked on one of those bars. :stupid:

that would be just impossible.....from my experience with rollcage....my only suggestion is u custom order whole rollcage set from chrome-moly material using 1"-1.5" diameter tube pipe and as close as possible to a pillar, b pillar and across floor at b-pillar fully welded along with sturdy base plate at all 4 point to the floor as well as retaining plate placed at strategic spot and secure using bolt....and final job to mask all of that via whole interior panel wrap in fabric (means cut stock interior panel to clear the rollcage and then wrap the whole area with interior fabric.... (floor can do with similar pattern of floor carpet and wrap around those cage to hide the obvious....

thats the best we could do if u really want rollcage and remain stealth from outside....but whoever steps inside your car definately will notice that....

 

[Izso]

Hmm .. would it not possible to custom a roll cage to be hidden within the ABC pillars?

Probably could if you had the budget. But for such an old car, would the cost be justified?

4G15 Wira not C97 chassis?

Just because of the weakness in chassis, the whole engine is wasted... Too bad... I wonder if the owner manage to source original Mitsubishi chassis like those of CA4A Mirage Cyborg or Mirage Asti, will these chassis be tougher than then C99?

Erkkkk.... 97? Erm. You're probably right. I just googled and there's no such thing as 91. Hehehe.. Paiseh.

And stronger than c99? C99 if not mistaken is the same as the original Evo 1 chassis. Ok what. Anyway, I dunno what happened to the car.

 

[vr2turbo]

Referring to the attached picture of Proton Suprima. Note that some bars align to the pillars.

I don't mean a full fledged roll cage with tubular bars but perhaps modify a bit using flatter, slimmer tensile ones which can later be hidden with the pillars' plastic covers. Roof has ample space to add tubular ones. It's a bit like reinforcing all those pillars and connecting each to the strengthened roof. Should act similar to a light duty roll cage. Likely won't need to wear a helmet driving this.

He He .. with those bars added, car will be heavier. No more pickup :damnmate:

Edit:
LOL .. don't mind me. After re-reading this post, I feel as though my head got knocked on one of those bars. :stupid:

I think will strengthen slightly only.
Looking at the pic you posted, that even have a center 6 point bar to take direct impact....

 

[parakey]

Probably could if you had the budget.

No lah. Don't intend to get roll cage. Merely postulating a wild theory.

i use fender bar+4point strut bar....but didnt believe much on the undercarriage bar especially the one hooked to the already sturdy engine subframe....
autofoam is good start...u can upgrade using the track package....

Apart from skipping the beam under the front seats and those in the roof, I think all other places progressively foamed the past few months. Originally started as a soundproofing project. Midway got detoured to improving handling. So far, I am satisfied with the overall result.

On this C99, I have fender bars, 2pt alloy front strut bar & Stiff Rings installed front/rear. Planning to upgrade the rear ARB. This car doesn't go on track. So no need for 23mm unit. Indecisive whether to get 16 or 19mm units. Or should I stick with the stock ARB? Any suggestions? The taman where I reside has numerous road humps. Have to consider the comfort factor. I occasionally drive to Genting. Upgrading the ARB will help address understeer. Recently the Genting road added many new thickish lines (speedbreakers). The drive up was okay but the Wira didn't enjoy bouncing over them on the way down. Not sure if foaming the side sills will help. Will find out on my next trip.

@^pomen_GTR^, I noticed you didn't mention rear tower strut bar. Does it mean you find them 'not that useful'? I am contemplating it but still unsure if I want to sacrifice boot space. Any feedback on this will be greatly appreciated.

But for such an old car, would the cost be justified?

Yalor, this is the main reason holding me back from overdoing my car. Car is already 19 years old. Have a Proton Preve for outstation trips. Over the past 2.5 years, the Wira having a manual transmission wasn't utilised much. After getting used to the Preve, each time I drive the Wira I find the road noise/drone intolerable. Which was what led to the soundproofing project. After making the recent changes, it is now a much nicer ride. Now backside itchy already.

Come to think of it. If I had made these changes before buying the Preve, I might not have made the purchase. :hmmmm: Weighing less, the Wira traverses road humps better. Definitely zippier than the Preve. Currently also thinking of getting FTuned coilovers but that's another dilemma. After last round of autofoam, I'm happy with the current ride. Worried if the coilovers will ruin the honeymoon. Normally I would wait a few months; get used to the autofoam before deciding if I need coilovers but GST (Gomen Suka Tax) is coming. If I buy now, it will be cheaper. Any thoughts gentlemen?

---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:25 PM ----------

I think will strengthen slightly only.
Looking at the pic you posted, that even have a center 6 point bar to take direct impact....

Agreed .. but then again even with proper roll cage if the car turns turtle, without 4pt harness seat belt, I think we'll still suffer neck injuries.

 

[issuzark]

Probably could if you had the budget. But for such an old car, would the cost be justified?



Erkkkk.... 97? Erm. You're probably right. I just googled and there's no such thing as 91. Hehehe.. Paiseh.

And stronger than c99? C99 if not mistaken is the same as the original Evo 1 chassis. Ok what. Anyway, I dunno what happened to the car.

C99 if same with Evo 1 then shouldn't have issues ripping at 300bhp? Unless because its FWD so the stress isn't distributed evenly.

 

[vr2turbo]

Agreed .. but then again even with proper roll cage if the car turns turtle, without 4pt harness seat belt, I think we'll still suffer neck injuries.

That is why need to do complete mod, not half way.....hhahahhahaha

---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:26 PM ----------

C99 if same with Evo 1 then shouldn't have issues ripping at 300bhp? Unless because its FWD so the stress isn't distributed evenly.

Can be too. 4WD splits the power to all wheels. 2WD only front wheel gets all the power....

 

[issuzark]

That is why need to do complete mod, not half way.....hhahahhahaha

---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:26 PM ----------



Can be too. 4WD splits the power to all wheels. 2WD only front wheel gets all the power....

Just a thought. How well does those ciplak 4 point harnesses work compared to stock seatbelts?

 

[vr2turbo]

Just a thought. How well does those ciplak 4 point harnesses work compared to stock seatbelts?

Won't know until you test them...Now who will be test dummy:hmmmm:.....hahaha

 

[Izso]

C99 if same with Evo 1 then shouldn't have issues ripping at 300bhp? Unless because its FWD so the stress isn't distributed evenly.

You and Chew already pointed it out. 4WD vs 2WD. AWD vs FWD. Very different physics man.

Just a thought. How well does those ciplak 4 point harnesses work compared to stock seatbelts?

Why would you bother. Harnesses need an anchor. So you'll probably gonna need to harness yourself to something like a bar at the back (which you don't have at the moment). It's fugly and overkill seriously. Get a full bucket first then only consider a harness.

On this C99, I have fender bars, 2pt alloy front strut bar & Stiff Rings installed front/rear. Planning to upgrade the rear ARB. This car doesn't go on track. So no need for 23mm unit. Indecisive whether to get 16 or 19mm units. Or should I stick with the stock ARB? Any suggestions? The taman where I reside has numerous road humps. Have to consider the comfort factor. I occasionally drive to Genting. Upgrading the ARB will help address understeer. Recently the Genting road added many new thickish lines (speedbreakers). The drive up was okay but the Wira didn't enjoy bouncing over them on the way down. Not sure if foaming the side sills will help. Will find out on my next trip.

Stock is 16mm la. Even if it was thinner it's not that much of a difference with 16. 19 and above will definitely be felt. But if comfort is what you're looking for, you probably don't need anymore than stock. 19mm will affect comfort to a certain extent.

As for foaming - where'd you get it done and how much? I'm going nuts with the road noise from my tyres.

Btw, speed bumps are there to make you feel uncomfortable when going over them. Which is why people slow down when they get to them. Unless you have rally suspension you're gonna feel bumps. Don't expect side still foaming to help much. Probably will have some effect but won't be significant.

@^pomen_GTR^, I noticed you didn't mention rear tower strut bar. Does it mean you find them 'not that useful'? I am contemplating it but still unsure if I want to sacrifice boot space. Any feedback on this will be greatly appreciated.

It firms up the rear and changes the characteristics of the rear grip. But if you're going to go to fTuned suspension then don't bother. If you're going to keep stock suspension then you'll feel it. Whether it's worth the boot sacrifice, depends on how hard you drive and how often you drive it hard. You don't need it for daily driving.

Come to think of it. If I had made these changes before buying the Preve, I might not have made the purchase. :hmmmm: Weighing less, the Wira traverses road humps better. Definitely zippier than the Preve. Currently also thinking of getting FTuned coilovers but that's another dilemma. After last round of autofoam, I'm happy with the current ride. Worried if the coilovers will ruin the honeymoon. Normally I would wait a few months; get used to the autofoam before deciding if I need coilovers but GST (Gomen Suka Tax) is coming. If I buy now, it will be cheaper. Any thoughts gentlemen?

Expect extreme differences in comfort levels with coilovers. Regardless of what people tell you - stock is the most comfortable setting. Coilovers will stiffen any ride regardless of what spring rates you chose. But if you're like me and get used to it, soft and spongy suspension is very meh for me. I prefer firm and predictable suspension over comfort. I hate soft and uncomfortable plus unpredictable suspension.

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

Just a thought. How well does those ciplak 4 point harnesses work compared to stock seatbelts?

No lah. Don't intend to get roll cage. Merely postulating a wild theory.


Apart from skipping the beam under the front seats and those in the roof, I think all other places progressively foamed the past few months. Originally started as a soundproofing project. Midway got detoured to improving handling. So far, I am satisfied with the overall result.

On this C99, I have fender bars, 2pt alloy front strut bar & Stiff Rings installed front/rear. Planning to upgrade the rear ARB. This car doesn't go on track. So no need for 23mm unit. Indecisive whether to get 16 or 19mm units. Or should I stick with the stock ARB? Any suggestions? The taman where I reside has numerous road humps. Have to consider the comfort factor. I occasionally drive to Genting. Upgrading the ARB will help address understeer. Recently the Genting road added many new thickish lines (speedbreakers). The drive up was okay but the Wira didn't enjoy bouncing over them on the way down. Not sure if foaming the side sills will help. Will find out on my next trip.

@^pomen_GTR^, I noticed you didn't mention rear tower strut bar. Does it mean you find them 'not that useful'? I am contemplating it but still unsure if I want to sacrifice boot space. Any feedback on this will be greatly appreciated.


Yalor, this is the main reason holding me back from overdoing my car. Car is already 19 years old. Have a Proton Preve for outstation trips. Over the past 2.5 years, the Wira having a manual transmission wasn't utilised much. After getting used to the Preve, each time I drive the Wira I find the road noise/drone intolerable. Which was what led to the soundproofing project. After making the recent changes, it is now a much nicer ride. Now backside itchy already.

Come to think of it. If I had made these changes before buying the Preve, I might not have made the purchase. :hmmmm: Weighing less, the Wira traverses road humps better. Definitely zippier than the Preve. Currently also thinking of getting FTuned coilovers but that's another dilemma. After last round of autofoam, I'm happy with the current ride. Worried if the coilovers will ruin the honeymoon. Normally I would wait a few months; get used to the autofoam before deciding if I need coilovers but GST (Gomen Suka Tax) is coming. If I buy now, it will be cheaper. Any thoughts gentlemen?

---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:25 PM ----------


Agreed .. but then again even with proper roll cage if the car turns turtle, without 4pt harness seat belt, I think we'll still suffer neck injuries.

rear strut bar does help too...but on my daily driver/family car....i cant sacrifice the boot space.... (wife cant left home without her stuff...alot of em actually )


as for your car... i would recommend do full autofoam package and full soundproofing job (vibration damping mat).....

and then we look in to suspension department...if u already have adjustable suspension...just swap your current springs with lower spring rate and adjust the damping to suits..... (thats my theory and practical setup for daily driven car without the need sacrifice good handling for family comfort)....

both my daily driven car use adjustable suspension with massive front+rear arb size and front fender bar as well as front strut bar....but with soft adjustable spring rate....

1-satria: common spring rate usually 6k front, 4k rear...mine 4k front with 3k rear (heck if got 2.5k spring available i would choose that)

2-scooby: common spring rate usually 8k~10k front, 6k~8k front...but mine just 7k front and 5k rear....

 

[Izso]

Oh btw, pasting on sheets and sheets of sound dampening bitumen material is heavy. Very heavy. It'll affect the handling of the car for sure.

Having driven a kosong edition Wira that doesn't come with sound proofing from the factory itself, it's so so so so different compared to the premium model that has loads of sound proofing. I mean sure it's quieter but I prefer a better drive than a quieter drive. I can live with noise to some extent if the drive is entertaining.