4 throttle in 4g93
- Thread starter leftfoot
- Start date
- May 21, 2006
- 70
- 0
- 1,506
Hi guys,
Its been a while since I updated this thread, (do i have to? haha)
Anyway, the 4 throttle project went on for 2 years until one fine day when I decided to switch to single throttle. Why? Because I finally have the reason to. The original intake manifold which was custom welded to fit the itbs finally cracked!. I didnt have any brace support underneath tho, which may have been the reason.
Well to make my story short, I did a complete engine rebuild. And the new recipe:
-Ported Head
-1.8 liter block
-Duratec Rods, because there is no other after market brand at the time, and I insist on having an aftermarket part. Coz at the time, money was no concern.
-JE pistons
-Race bearings
-balanced 4g93 crank
-Jun type 2
-type r intake manifold
-70mm tb
-gsr 390cc injectors. retained from previous build
-tri-y header aka "hytech-copy". this is not the same as local made or taiwan, i'll explain the difference if anyone asks.
-upgraded exhaust to 2.5"
things retained from past build
-megasquirt, now upgraded to 2.0 and latest firmware
-innovate LC-1 wideband
All this was 1 year ago. I'm now happy with my setup. :)
Its been a while since I updated this thread, (do i have to? haha)
Anyway, the 4 throttle project went on for 2 years until one fine day when I decided to switch to single throttle. Why? Because I finally have the reason to. The original intake manifold which was custom welded to fit the itbs finally cracked!. I didnt have any brace support underneath tho, which may have been the reason.
Well to make my story short, I did a complete engine rebuild. And the new recipe:
-Ported Head
-1.8 liter block
-Duratec Rods, because there is no other after market brand at the time, and I insist on having an aftermarket part. Coz at the time, money was no concern.
-JE pistons
-Race bearings
-balanced 4g93 crank
-Jun type 2
-type r intake manifold
-70mm tb
-gsr 390cc injectors. retained from previous build
-tri-y header aka "hytech-copy". this is not the same as local made or taiwan, i'll explain the difference if anyone asks.
-upgraded exhaust to 2.5"
things retained from past build
-megasquirt, now upgraded to 2.0 and latest firmware
-innovate LC-1 wideband
All this was 1 year ago. I'm now happy with my setup. :)
Bro, does jun cam and 2.5" make a great loss for low end? and your exhaust is straight or S-flow?
I am glad you're enjoying your ride now. as for me a bit diasappointed as u never got the 4 throttle to work for you .... anyway to each its own.
zac,
I'm running 2.5inch pipe with straight through muffler, 1 midbox. Everyday driving, I'm using a silencer to lessen the sound and create a little back pressure. Which works great below 5000rpm. When opened, there is a slight power loss below 3000rpm but its nothing to think about.
the so called hytech-copy are similer to the taiwan or local for the naked eye. If you own a US made hytech-copy, you'll know the difference,. for instance, weight. Its far lighter than the local made ones, US steel uses a much quality stainless steel which can be made thinner and still strong. Local steel, as you know, our steel are not as good as the old days. We use thicker gauge stainless steel. Which results in heavy weight. But thats just my theory on the weight. And, the best part is, its even longer at certain parts compared to taiwan's or local's.
The hytech copies are exactly copied from the genuine hytech. From the outside, it looks, measured the same. Only thing is most ppl may want to weld the 2 piece together as it often create leakage. No big deal, i did mine at JFA. Performance wise, you'll thank yourself and your every penny spent. I dont know how to say, but its the best header ive ever known to exist. And even a copied version, its close to the real thing, at 1/10th the price.
Well ofcourse you have to buy it, probably pay some tax, as i did. then modify it to fit your non-honda engine. I dont think i'll ever sell it. Its the best of the best.
About the anti reversion chambers. Those bulges you see in the primaries, those are just made for the racing version, a one-off header. Made exclusively for your engine. There are currently 2 kinds of hytech, the one-off, and the mass produced. These copied ones are made from the mass produced where specifications are made for general mods. But the stepped primary is sort of an anti-reversion design itself.
H2Zero,
4throttle worked for me. It just broke 1 day. :)
I'm running 2.5inch pipe with straight through muffler, 1 midbox. Everyday driving, I'm using a silencer to lessen the sound and create a little back pressure. Which works great below 5000rpm. When opened, there is a slight power loss below 3000rpm but its nothing to think about.
the so called hytech-copy are similer to the taiwan or local for the naked eye. If you own a US made hytech-copy, you'll know the difference,. for instance, weight. Its far lighter than the local made ones, US steel uses a much quality stainless steel which can be made thinner and still strong. Local steel, as you know, our steel are not as good as the old days. We use thicker gauge stainless steel. Which results in heavy weight. But thats just my theory on the weight. And, the best part is, its even longer at certain parts compared to taiwan's or local's.
The hytech copies are exactly copied from the genuine hytech. From the outside, it looks, measured the same. Only thing is most ppl may want to weld the 2 piece together as it often create leakage. No big deal, i did mine at JFA. Performance wise, you'll thank yourself and your every penny spent. I dont know how to say, but its the best header ive ever known to exist. And even a copied version, its close to the real thing, at 1/10th the price.
Well ofcourse you have to buy it, probably pay some tax, as i did. then modify it to fit your non-honda engine. I dont think i'll ever sell it. Its the best of the best.
About the anti reversion chambers. Those bulges you see in the primaries, those are just made for the racing version, a one-off header. Made exclusively for your engine. There are currently 2 kinds of hytech, the one-off, and the mass produced. These copied ones are made from the mass produced where specifications are made for general mods. But the stepped primary is sort of an anti-reversion design itself.
H2Zero,
4throttle worked for me. It just broke 1 day. :)
Last edited:
thx for the elaborations mr leftfoot. i've been a fan of ur blog last time. hehe, hope u can update it u have time =D
I wish so too. just need to find the time and effort. I just think its not worth updating just 2 words. If theres something good to read. I'll be posting soon. :)
gooday!
Car has been so well, thats why I forgot to post here!.. he he he he
Everything is completed, thanks to the internet, mechanic, Tuner, and exhaust shops for bringing my idea and other brilliant ideas into reality!
conclusion:
180whp (176-184 to be more precise, different dyno varying figure)
1.5way aftermarket LSD, really makes the car turn, and not turn! if you know what i mean
2-way exhaust cutout with electric valve, love it on the highway, and silent in the streets
No power steering, no A/C
Aluminium airbox with CAI (custom made)
SuperPro Bushes all around
18mm ARB with superpro bushes
Volk Racing TE-37 15 x 6.5
TITAN Monotube Suspension cant remember spring rate its been more than 4 years now
Endless Pads all around (blue)
Stock satria 1.6 calipers, stock disks(not a fan of cross-drilled or slotted mind me). no probs so far with stopping
PRO RS steel braided teflon brake hoses
AUTOMETER Oil Pressure Gauge, Full sweep electric, Phantom II, takes care of monitoring your oilies
Aluminium Radiator, local made
Oil cooler. filter relocator, steel braided plumbing.
hytech-style header imported from USA (unlike local ones which are much heavier and shorter)
Integra TypeR intake manifold
Skunk 2 composite fuel rail (ITR)
s90 70mm throttle body
whale penis intake filter
390cc fuel injectors (4g93t)
Port n polished head (nasty)
Jun type 2 cam and valve spring
H-Beam Duratec Rods, (the only aftermarket option at the time)
JE Piston
stock bearing
no oil squirter as originally planned
balanced crank, flywheel
4point front ultra racing strutbar, 3 point rear, room bar, 3point fender bar
quick shift (popular japanese brand, cant remember name) ITR shift knob, rethreaded shift pole
Defi Link Meter; speed, oil temp, water temp, defi RPM meter
quick release steering + short bush kit
sard fuel pump
rear battery relocation
Innovate Wide Band
Megasquirt2 standalone ECU (the best and cheapest out there)
battery cut-off switch, (marine quality, heavy duty) ??
cant think of anymore mods now..
enjoy the specs! if i could improve anything, pls let me know :)
Car has been so well, thats why I forgot to post here!.. he he he he
Everything is completed, thanks to the internet, mechanic, Tuner, and exhaust shops for bringing my idea and other brilliant ideas into reality!
conclusion:
180whp (176-184 to be more precise, different dyno varying figure)
1.5way aftermarket LSD, really makes the car turn, and not turn! if you know what i mean
2-way exhaust cutout with electric valve, love it on the highway, and silent in the streets
No power steering, no A/C
Aluminium airbox with CAI (custom made)
SuperPro Bushes all around
18mm ARB with superpro bushes
Volk Racing TE-37 15 x 6.5
TITAN Monotube Suspension cant remember spring rate its been more than 4 years now
Endless Pads all around (blue)
Stock satria 1.6 calipers, stock disks(not a fan of cross-drilled or slotted mind me). no probs so far with stopping
PRO RS steel braided teflon brake hoses
AUTOMETER Oil Pressure Gauge, Full sweep electric, Phantom II, takes care of monitoring your oilies
Aluminium Radiator, local made
Oil cooler. filter relocator, steel braided plumbing.
hytech-style header imported from USA (unlike local ones which are much heavier and shorter)
Integra TypeR intake manifold
Skunk 2 composite fuel rail (ITR)
s90 70mm throttle body
whale penis intake filter
390cc fuel injectors (4g93t)
Port n polished head (nasty)
Jun type 2 cam and valve spring
H-Beam Duratec Rods, (the only aftermarket option at the time)
JE Piston
stock bearing
no oil squirter as originally planned
balanced crank, flywheel
4point front ultra racing strutbar, 3 point rear, room bar, 3point fender bar
quick shift (popular japanese brand, cant remember name) ITR shift knob, rethreaded shift pole
Defi Link Meter; speed, oil temp, water temp, defi RPM meter
quick release steering + short bush kit
sard fuel pump
rear battery relocation
Innovate Wide Band
Megasquirt2 standalone ECU (the best and cheapest out there)
battery cut-off switch, (marine quality, heavy duty) ??
cant think of anymore mods now..
enjoy the specs! if i could improve anything, pls let me know :)
Last edited:
wow. impressive! now i can start upgrading my mivec with the guidelines that you have listed down. btw, what about piston? still using stock bore size or oversized?
just slightly oversized; 81.5mm, no big difference at all. why arent you happy with stock? i miss stock now.. :)
---------- Post added at 10:13 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:58 PM ----------
sikit2 lama2 jadi bukit. throwing money on NA car can be less satisfactory compared to FI, but it always is more reliable in the long term. even if you thrash your car.
i've seen (or heard) ppl throw in more or less the same amount of money on a turbo car, only to have it blown up. pure greed. dont be greedy, be thankfull. its good if you can get a decent amount of whp on a turbo, but once ur over the edge of greediness, it will swallow you!
im not judging how ppl do what on their car, its their choice. i build a car that i want to be able to drive everyday, reliable, fast, near racing-like, not really racing btw. and i dont do illegal racing, illegal drag racing, etc. just the occasional, random spirited driving from time to time.
hahaha...the best mechanic hard to find out but big talk mechanic got lot outside,everyone also say can...easy...no problem.....cheap,fast then..final..waste money and time :stupid:
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