DIY the "probably the only real FUEL SAVER"

[Northiswara]

the civic save u.
hehe....

 

[ibeni05]

Hi,.. sorry to butt in.. I am not a new member.. just another 'hi, hi.. bye bye".. in these forumer..

I have been reading through in ZTH and in some other site for more info.. and I guest it's my turn for squeeze in my thought.

first.. why don't you use some neutral plates (solid) to reduce the voltage (1-3V per plate) and thus reduce the heat produced? As far as i read thru all the details.. you don't need more than 2V to make it produce more bubble.

and 2nd.. to improve the H2 generated just use PWM pulse circuit (DC pulsed motor Controller with potmeter).. when adjusted properly the cell will produce more H2 bubbles..

I am dying (DIYing) to rig this cell thing and currently looking for parts myself but not sure when to complete all the ingredients.

correct me if I'm wrong as we are also learning from each other.. right? (and I'm reading from external sites as a source also).

about TT... anybody here from puchong? we may view and diskas things more clearly..

 

[Northiswara]

welcome bro!
ur idea so good but i dont understand what is PWM circuit.
mind to explain. i not E&E ppl.

 

[ibeni05]

thx.. but no.. its not my idea.. if you just follow the thread (and maybe some other in ZTH [DIY water powered car]) did mentioned Water Powered Car .. and there are even image of what to put where as in the image below..

i read it several times and do some 'interrogating' to some others.. at last yesterday i got the hint on how to assemble it..

the big Question now is where can I get those perforated (holed) SS304 @ SS316 plates and solid ones (as described in the WPC.com?? those PWM (DC pulsed motor Controller - you can lookit in the net 'hint''hint' Gurgle.. hehe.. there are alot..)..

and no.. I'm no E&E guy also.. but proud to have easy digestive brains (left & right ones)

 

[ibeni05]

ops.. sorry.. for got to include file..

but try to click this as i cant upload.. to big..

and in this kind of wiring they did not use any neutral plates.. there are some instances they did use [-NNN+NNN-] config.. while in the wiring diagram they use a relay to limit V to 2V.. (the rest is 'absorbed' be the relay..).. to enhanced the H2 production the guy used PWM pulse circuit instead..

some used KOH/kalium hydroxide (i think the name is)/ or widely known as Potassium Lye or Potassium Hydroxide or something like that as catalyst. the draw back is the K (potassium), Ba (barium), Li (lithium) and the such are all BASE, as in Acid and Base?? which are ALKALI.. even in small amount wrong mixture are corrosive.

they say just add water (H2O) as the catalyst does not separated to any thing.. but 2(H2O) + (-e) as in electricity from the battery = 2(H2) + (O2). while 2(H2) +(fire)+ (O2) = 2(H2O).

but in the combustion chamber is another story. H2 + some other HydroCarbon (eg. C2H4O2 (that's some sort of alchohol or ethanol or what ever.. petrol are much longer than that.. much mooooore longer) ... H2 +C2H4O2 +(fire)+ O2 ==?? my guest is more hydrocarbon .. but the links are much less than other heavier/longer chainlink hydrocarbons..

 

[Northiswara]

??????????

and no.. I'm no E&E guy also.. but proud to have easy digestive brains (left & right ones)

i not as digestive as u. NEED HELP!!

 

[imoloq]

Im not quite agree with the 5 min engine running that will boil away the water. The content of the vapor is not 100% h20 but its mixed with some other substance which yet to be confirmed. (Doing chemical test on the water, waiting for results)
If you boil the "water", it will dry up and left some white color substance that can corrode the engine block or other metal components. This is not my prediction but experienced.
Hope it helps.

Oh no no no. If you channel the gas tru a bubbler, which uses distilled water as medium, u should not have contamination.

I was talking about how to prevent rust in the cylinders btw :)

 

[imoloq]

very good information, imolog..... once its turn off n stop producing hydrogen vapor, extra 5 minit burning the remaining vapor off....so no more vapor kept producing overnight while u r not running the engine.

am i right ?

Yup thats for solving the rust problem.

But as fritz found out, there might be some other substances that got into the cylinders as well. I suspect it might be the electrolyte he's using.

Any updates on the tests, fritz?

 

[imoloq]

There's one more thing:

It's best to test all your diy experiments on a carburetted car. EFI cars have pretty advanced electronics governing all aspects of engine operations. When a HHOgenerator is attached to the engine, it causes the fuel inside the cylinders to burn nicely and clean. Unfortunately, the computer is expecting the same amount of unburnt oxygen to come out of the tailpipe. When it doesn't detect it, it assumes its running lean (more o2 than petrol) and increases the fuel rate to get back to its normal inefficient method of running. This cancels the mileage improvements unless something is done to adjust the operation of the computer.

The computer can be tricked but it requires major diy.

 

[proton63t]

But according to this, perhaps the car is burning more petrol and gain a slight better power, no ?

 

[icecube]

Okie. I got the baking powder in my cell now. I think less then 5g or so.. (less then half the cap of the bottle). and it bubble very aggressively. Then i dilute it futher coz its drawing very high current (by judging on the volt meter i got)... until its drawing less current and enough bubble to see a different.

Anyway, i think all of you are right about the EFI thingy. It just keep pumping in more fuel. And i do need a water trapper as recommend by fritz coz when using with the baking soda, the gas is so high that in the hose u can see it turning back into water and slowly sipping into the engine.... but at the end of the hose going into the engine side, it dries up... probably due to heat of the block.

So i'll try to get a fuel filter and DIY a water trapper (or where can i get one) coz now i felt the car is heavier can hardder to accelerate with the huge gas coming in....... (or it became water when reaching the throttle). but when crusing on highway at 80kmph its smoother and lower rpm.......

i done the circuit on the DIY EFIE thingy that uses a 12 level one way knob switch. just cant test the circuit coz i dont have a 0.5v input to test (and tune ) it before actually plugging the unit up with my O2 sensor and tapping it into my ECU to avoid any potential problem. argh.... but heck i'll get drunk one day and hook it in my car some day.... i guess....

 

[icecube]

Is Baking Soda and Baking Powder the same?

 

[ibeni05]

Hi, Sorry about the mumblings.. I'm just not myself that day.

Anyway who have the SS thread left overs and living some where closer to puchong??? I did looked around but the shop is selling @RM30++ per 2m lengh? Care to sell? as it's hard for me to travel to KL just for buying that (need a little taichi'ying from my significant other).

 

[icecube]

Hi, Sorry about the mumblings.. I'm just not myself that day.

Anyway who have the SS thread left overs and living some where closer to puchong??? I did looked around but the shop is selling @RM30++ per 2m lengh? Care to sell? as it's hard for me to travel to KL just for buying that (need a little taichi'ying from my significant other).

The SS thread u mention is the 6mm rod/stud (to fit nut No.10) ? I do have some leftt over, how many feet do u want?

 

[icecube]

Found out another thing.

Baking soda and Baking power is different.

Use only Baking soda (pure 99% sodium bicarbonate) rather then Baking Powder (mixture of corn flour,soudium bicarbonate and some other stuff making it more acid based).

I tried both. And Baking Powder cause the water to become like curry. Reddish brownish and dirty. Baking Soda only add a little bit of brownish to the water but still clear. And both have the same gas out put (as dynoed using my eyes).

USE ONLY BAKING SODA ... NOT BAKING POWDER!! (U can get at giant for RM0.99 in a small bottle near the cake assesories department)