Car modification for myvi 1.5se auto advice

[cvkit17]

I'm afraid it may lessen your top end if the LCP is smaller. Wait for CVKit to comment.
Oh well. ARB, no other better brands than UR haha. This one also wait for CVKit.
He has a few bars on his car.

Oi wtf why everything also me? Ixeo owns a myvi also ma...turbo somemore

If you like speed and acceleration, don't do the LCP yet. Get a good drop in airfilter. Then change to a lightweight 15" rim. The weight makes a big difference compared to your typical Taiwan mari rim.

And Cvkit was talking about a complete brake change, caliper - rotors - pads. Just changing pads won't make a huge difference.

Come come, let me help you poison a bit. Want a UR 16mm ARB? Hehehehehe.. I don't think my wife appreciates the bar. Honestly though I can't feel the difference with and without it.

---------- Post added at 01:11 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 01:11 PM ----------

Oh and consider a good ATF cooler (not oil cooler, ATF cooler)

Dude the ARB makes huge difference. Even my friend who was driving behind me noticed the difference when I did a U Turn at moderate speed. I don't know if there's different effect on the current model or the older model but it sure gives good help in cornering for lagi best model.

And changing brake pads alone is making a huge difference! No joke! Although the brakes are still spongy but at least it stops! Of course, changing rotor would be better but if you r going upsize, the servo might have to be changed too.

Save up and change to better car, that is different story. That story still in progress. This Myvimod story is full daily drive for 5-6 year more..to give less burden to myvi..i love myvi leh because this is my first car.

The mod below

Already implement:
15 inch lightweight rims

Current Decision:
Voltage Stabilizer
Suspension System
Brake Set
Exhaust System
Lightweight Crank Pulley
Drop-in Air filter

Consideration:
UR ARB Bar
UR Front Strut Bar

On-Hold:
Atf Cooler

Well I'd forget the LCP for the time being coz a good LCP is costly, around 600 bucks. Upgrade the suspension; hi lo soft hard would be great. Install the ARB, front strut, and fender bar. Why fender bar? Myvi chasis is kinda soft so if you want to squeeze the juice out of your suspension, tighten it. But don't make your ride too rigid coz you'll be jumping inside the car when traveling at high speed on highway. With electric steering, it's difficult to control a myvi that's so bouncy.

After suspension and brake upgrades, you can opt for a drop in filter. K&N, redline, simota, etc. I prefer cotton type over steel mesh because of its better ability to filter and need no reoil. Then upgrade the exhaust. Try to remain a cat con in the exhaust system as a responsible being. It might suck some of the power that you could get but it's protecting yourself and us from inhaling toxic fumes.

Grounding can wait. Voltage stabilizer, just get a normal blue raizin is sufficient. Of course you can go for more expensive ones like qmax which some people swears to it but to me it does not justify the cost per benefits. Your call.

ATF cooler is recommended. It is best to do it before any power upgrade. Why? If you have 200bhp from the engine it would mean nothing if your gearbox gives up.

Happy modding and drive responsibly.

 

[Izso]

-My rim is lightweight Rays made in japan 15 inch
-well maybe it call anti roll bar..only lower the percentage of rolling our car?? haha
-i know that the front stut bar..balance the front wheel vibration so can do sharp turn if i'm not mistaken
-What is the difference with the myvi original ATF cooler?

Sigh. Please do a google search la. Anti roll bar isn't there to prevent your car from rolling over. Don't expect spoon feeding all the time!

Anti-Roll Bars - Explained - YouTube


The original Myvi ATF cooler is connected to your radiator and is one thin metal tube. It's useless.

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/automotive-news/383202-transmission-coolers.html

I have put up a DIY on how to install one in a Myvi too. Even though yours is a 1.5, it's the same process.

http://www.zerotohundred.com/newfor...rage/383197-diy-automatic-gearbox-cooler.html

 

[jerrysiow]

Below is my humble suggestion on the myvi mod.

Choose Mythelogy lighten crank pulley if you plan to install LCP. I'm currently using it and close to 40k clocked, so far so good (no leak or causes the bearing spoil).

Before you change to bigger brake kit such as EK4's brake which causes deeper pedal feeling, upgrade your suspension first to a stiffer 1. It makes a significant improvement on your braking (you won't feel dropping to front so hard). Since you got the budget, go for good hi/low/soft/hard adjustable suspension. BC racing is a good product yet cheaper than others.

Myvi new brake (longer pads) and thicker rotor have a better braking power compare to old version myvi brake kit. Get a good brake pads (if you're able to tolerate the noise), you'll like the bite power.

Regarding on the handling, since you got a good tyre. Get a good adjustable suspension + ARB bars + top structure bars. Personally experience, with the above setup, rear tyre wont skid because the suspension react fast and you will feel your tyre most of the time touching the ground eventhough the road is uneven.

 

[zhome]

Alright, most of the post here really useful and really explaining in detail..thank you..and really appreciate it..

haha, i'm so happy right now, my problem for modding is solved..Thank you zerotohundred members seniors!!

Thank you everybody ^_^

 

[stupidcar]

Below is my humble suggestion on the myvi mod.

Choose Mythelogy lighten crank pulley if you plan to install LCP. I'm currently using it and close to 40k clocked, so far so good (no leak or causes the bearing spoil).

Before you change to bigger brake kit such as EK4's brake which causes deeper pedal feeling, upgrade your suspension first to a stiffer 1. It makes a significant improvement on your braking (you won't feel dropping to front so hard). Since you got the budget, go for good hi/low/soft/hard adjustable suspension. BC racing is a good product yet cheaper than others.

Myvi new brake (longer pads) and thicker rotor have a better braking power compare to old version myvi brake kit. Get a good brake pads (if you're able to tolerate the noise), you'll like the bite power.

Regarding on the handling, since you got a good tyre. Get a good adjustable suspension + ARB bars + top structure bars. Personally experience, with the above setup, rear tyre wont skid because the suspension react fast and you will feel your tyre most of the time touching the ground eventhough the road is uneven.

The reason why Jerry suggested Mytheology is because of the damper.
Cost more than Works)no damping) because of it and also its better.

 

[Izso]

The reason why Jerry suggested Mytheology is because of the damper.
Cost more than Works)no damping) because of it and also its better.

Erm.. no. That rubber piece in the pulley does very little. The main advantage of Mythelogy over the competitors is the reinforced center sleeve. It's stronger and resists wear on the center part of the pulley. Horror stories with other brands wearing out in the center is all over the place.

All aftermarket pulleys (except for one very expensive one I've seen) don't have harmonic dampeners. Meaning they are very prone to vibrational forces and regardless how strong the T5/T6 alu is, it'll wear & eventually and deform, specifically the center part of the pulley that's connected to the crank shaft. That's why stock pulleys all have harmonic dampeners in the first place, to absorb some if not all of that vibration. Unfortunately these dampeners are made of rubber and will wear out over time.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents.

 

[vr2turbo]

Erm.. no. That rubber piece in the pulley does very little. The main advantage of Mythelogy over the competitors is the reinforced center sleeve. It's stronger and resists wear on the center part of the pulley. Horror stories with other brands wearing out in the center is all over the place.

All aftermarket pulleys (except for one very expensive one I've seen) don't have harmonic dampeners. Meaning they are very prone to vibrational forces and regardless how strong the T5/T6 alu is, it'll wear & eventually and deform, specifically the center part of the pulley that's connected to the crank shaft. That's why stock pulleys all have harmonic dampeners in the first place, to absorb some if not all of that vibration. Unfortunately these dampeners are made of rubber and will wear out over time.

Anyway, that's my 2 cents.

Years ago my VR ones came apart. Now having a solid metal one, not aluminum....

 

[Izso]

must be heavy like hell?!

 

[cvkit17]

Aluminum is prone to fatigue more than steel...

 

[vr2turbo]

must be heavy like hell?!

Enough power mah......

 

[stupidcar]

Enough power mah......

Hahahha, This is Izso right now -->

 

[123]

hmm i'm using arospeed alu on my vr now but no holes, just solid, previous owner installed

 

[vr2turbo]

Hahahha, This is Izso right now -->

VR solid metal pulley.....

 

[revfast]

Pure sharing.

I have done some suspension upgrade after the mileage clocked 50k

- Rear UR 18mm ARB (highly recommended)
- Front UR strut bar (wasted, 0% feeling)
- AR springs (it meets my 60% handling, 40% comfort. I am more into handling person)
- 15'' taiwan RPF 01 (It is very light. 195-50-15 with Ecopia 200. Surprisingly very good grip on the wet and dry condition)
- Shenzo 5w30 Infinity Fully Synthetic Racing oil (very huge different compare to Perodua semi Syn. Fuel consumption and the engine runs
very smooth. It can last for 15k km.
- Iridium spark plugs (from Perodua, cost me $160+, it can last for 100k km. But I think its bullshit)
- Will be getting a pair of Honda EK front brake system, including the bigger brake pump, roughly $600 in total. This is my second disc rotor(left) warranty replacement. Sick of the quality of the disc rotor.
- Intentionally to get Thunder storm power coil. But I cancelled my mind after the seller couldnt provide the power graft statement.

Basically my ride is running stock, except handling has been enhanced. Well, I still find tuning to my suspension set up. It tends to be abit of understeer, I reckon the front strut bar or maybe some toe in/out adjustment.

Clocked 185+Km/h few times.

When my stock I didnt really try the max, but it hit 175km/h very quick, after that feeling like riding a sampan, very dangerous.

Not going to do BOT, as cons > pros. Stay NA or maybe next move will be MT gearbox. lol

Thanks for reading.

 

[vr2turbo]

If you are a handling and cornering kaki, get UHP tyre like PS3. Ecopia are eco entry level tyres only....