Yup... U can survey at this shop KF Audio Aman Suria, ACP PJ, SoundQuest Cheras, KK Lau around PJ, MegaSound PJ if I not mistaken laaa.... but some of those product beyond your budget... 2 or 3 amp can get 1 new MYvi or Wira SE....
heheheoldskolboyz said:Yup... U can survey at this shop KF Audio Aman Suria, ACP PJ, SoundQuest Cheras, KK Lau around PJ, MegaSound PJ if I not mistaken laaa.... but some of those product beyond your budget... 2 or 3 amp can get 1 new MYvi or Wira SE....
r60262 said:increase you amp watt to support you woofer... use 1000w 2 channel
your 2 subs are svc and wired in parallel gives u 2ohm, so u need to find an amp that gives enough power to both subs at 2ohmacidcoller said:General
Output 4 Ohms 150W x 1
Output 2 Ohms 300W x 1
Signal-to-Noise Ratio >100
Frequency Response (±3dB) 20Hz - 500Hz
Total Harmonic Distortion 0.1%
Input Sensitivity 250mV - 4V
or
RMS watt @ 4 Ohm = 1x400w
RMS watt @ 2 ohm = 1x700w
RMS watt @ 1 Ohm = 1x1200w
Frequency Response = 20Hz - 2500Hz
Total Harmonic Distortion 0.1%
or any suggest for spec i must get???
gwsallen said:acidcoller:
original product, says European or U.S products, when stated 200W rms means it actually producing 200W rms or slightly more. ayam brand may stated there 1000W but it actually mean 1000W p.m.p.o which may convert back to about 200W rms more or less. some of you may xperience, my one also 1000W, my friend's one also 1000W but his one more expensive. But my one not as punchy as his. Two also 1000W what.... by the time you found out what is PMPO and what is RMS, you will never go back for ayam brand again.
Secondly, original more durable, less noise, better SQ = more stable signal and etc.
Btw, guys, this is a good thread.
Something just came across my mind. Say i have an amp 500W rms to drive a 10" sub. On my amp, my gain level is half. My question here is am i sending 500W signal to the sub or just 250W? This question has been flying around my head for some time, just that i did not bother to go and find out. Hope some gurus here help me in a short cut way :P Thanks in advance.
Not 100% laa.. it's depend on current flow to amp.. let say your amp 500W at 14.4v.. only at this current the amp will pump 500W (max) to you sub.. if the current flow at 13.8v maybe less than that laa.. around 400-450W.. Hope you can check with manual.. every amp manual will show/state the actual power rating like 100w X 2 4ohm 12.v & 150w X 2 4ohm at 13.8v or 14.4v..gwsallen said:acidcoller:
Something just came across my mind. Say i have an amp 500W rms to drive a 10" sub. On my amp, my gain level is half. My question here is am i sending 500W signal to the sub or just 250W? This question has been flying around my head for some time, just that i did not bother to go and find out. Hope some gurus here help me in a short cut way :P Thanks in advance.
Gain is NOT a volume knob. a gain is simply a matching level of your speaker. E.g If you set your gain for your sub higher than your component than your sub wil be louder than your component means your sound is not balance.oldskolboyz said:Not 100% laa.. it's depend on current flow to amp.. let say your amp 500W at 14.4v.. only at this current the amp will pump 500W (max) to you sub.. if the current flow at 13.8v maybe less than that laa.. around 400-450W.. Hope you can check with manual.. every amp manual will show/state the actual power rating like 100w X 2 4ohm 12.v & 150w X 2 4ohm at 13.8v or 14.4v..
Gain control is the Volume Control knob.. I don't know why so many ppl are taught that gains are NOT volume controls.. but that the fact.. Let me try to clarify this a little..
If we hook up a head unit with a 4volt (or more) output to an amplifier, then the volume will get loud very fast when we start to turn it up...In other words if our digital volume control goes from 1-30, then a HIGH VOLT output to an amplifier might make the amplifier reach full power at 5 on the volume scale... That not good cause it would be nice if you had a little more swing in your 1-30 range!
And by the same token a headunit with a LOW VOLT output might have to be turned up all the way to 30 and might still not quite drive the amplifier to full power... That not good either..
A gain control in this case will allow you to adjust the amplifier so it allows the volume of a headunit to control the amplifier so it will get loud at a desirable point in the 1-30 swing... Usually about 3/4 the way up. We don't want it to get loud too fast as we wont have a good control as music levels differ. And we don't want it to have to be turned up all the way to get loud either, because since different music may be recorded at different levels if we set the gains for max output with one music source it might not get loud with a music source recorded at a lesser level.
So, by setting the gains so 3/4 turn of the headunits volume knob gets it LOUD gives you plenty of control and some extra above the 3/4 mark in case you get some music that's recorded at a lesser level...
so..kyheng said:First you must know 1 thing, most of the USA brands are made in China.
hope you can read this.. www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/gains.htm .. the voodo lie around us.. I'm not 1 off the ppl inside that group.. are you?appleyard said:Gain is NOT a volume knob. a gain is simply a matching level of your speaker. E.g If you set your gain for your sub higher than your component than your sub wil be louder than your component means your sound is not balance.
Amplifier output it not based on what voltage alone but also current supply. If you run in high voltage but low current draw then your amp will give low output.
E.g let say 2 cars are has an amp that run on 14.4v. Car A use 8 gauge power cables and car B runs with 0/1 gauge. Which car amp's has higher current draw and power output??
I suggest you read more before making your own conclusion as it might mislead those new to ICE and want to learn.
cheers
So let says:oldskolboyz said:Not 100% laa.. it's depend on current flow to amp.. let say your amp 500W at 14.4v.. only at this current the amp will pump 500W (max) to you sub.. if the current flow at 13.8v maybe less than that laa.. around 400-450W.. Hope you can check with manual.. every amp manual will show/state the actual power rating like 100w X 2 4ohm 12.v & 150w X 2 4ohm at 13.8v or 14.4v...
thylantyr said:A bold statement would be to say that the majority of
power amplifier design is as described in previous post about
gain knobs on amps as being input attenuators.
The real amplifier gain is fixed, the knobs to control gain
are really input signal attenuation 'volume' knobs {potentiometers to reduce the signal}.
Example;
QSC PLX proamps;
http://www.qscaudio.com/products/amps/plx/plx.htm
Scroll down;
Voltage Gain = 40x (32dB) across all models.
Each PLX has the game voltage gain by design and it's
fixed. Each amp has different power ratings and the amps all have 'gain controls' even though the real gain is fixed.
The word gain is used loosely and it confuses
people.
This may be the reason on how the issue gets confused.
music signal -> Input attenuation pot -> amplifier input stage -> output stage.
Two gain levels;
Gain is fixed between the amplifier input stage and output stage.
But amplifier gain as a whole measured from
the music signal to output stage is different as you
adjust the input attenuation pot, but it will never be
greater than the fixed gain, only equal or less.
This doesn't imply that all amps are this way, most are.
There is nothing stopping anyone from making the real
amplifier gain adjustable by adding a pot and removing the input attenuation pot.
Sphere said:Gains on an amp are made to match the Source units Voltage gain...Squeezing twice the voltage through the amplifer @ 4 volts into (2 volts gain setting on amplifier) will yeild a better noise floor and improved dynamics...increasing the gains on the amplifier allow it to accept a small 2 volt signal and use it's own gain properties to increase the signal to amplify it to audible levels...this isn't the best option due in part that the amplifier would undoubtedly amplify NOISE AND HISS due in part that it isn't sufficiently sheilded or designed to prevent noise from entering the signal...(The Source Deck is responisble for amplifing a clean signal)------not the amplifier.
The amplifier gain is a passive helper to accomodate various SOURCE DECKS voltage differences with out the need to purchase a deck with a higher voltage output. Still the gain on the amplifer is NOT DESIGNED to amplify the signal itself perfectly without noise...it is the source unit's responsibility.