using open pod also can make the car runs abit leaner..
what daihatsu engine suitable for race/time attack??
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I'm not quite sure. I think vr2turbo can explain better
Nvm I call him to explain in other forum.
http://forum.autoworld.com.my/index.php?showtopic=91520&st=40&p=1484481&#entry1484481
Wah! you find until Autoworld to flush me out ah?.....hahahahaha
---------- Post added at 08:47 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:41 PM ----------
Basically is like what others call it "air leak". For Carb, it is more efficient as there is no ECU to counter it. If car already running lean may not work. Works well with heavy fc cars. MAP sensor I heard some work, some don't. With air flow sensor still can, the air let in from pcv valve link to inlet manifold, therefore air flow sensor does not sense it.
As bro. SF mentioned the device is actually from the kembara as they are still using this manual device for it's FICD...You can DIY if you have the device just plug a plastic fuel filter to act as an air filter....
---------- Post added at 08:49 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:47 PM ----------
Open pod is in front, once air pass the air flow sensor the ECU will counter. Oh! it is for NA cars only turbo won't work....
LOL! Demm you bro. U r killing me with temptations growing within me.
But then ITB use on 20V have 4 and how come he can get 3? ITB can use on any other car?
Idling have to be on 2K Rpm...damn the FC...
intake manifold risk it to break a few times :stoned: (Any way to prevent this?)
Beat a BOT Kelisa :stoned:
What u work bro, need to night shift
(Night Wangan Racer
if using standalone, it might not have to idle at such high rpm...
I'm an IT engineer, working in cyberjaya... 12 hours shift...
Everyday wangan on MEX going to office or went back home haha
the beauty and curse of a odd-numbered cylinder engine.... but 3 cylinder got that throbb sound that i kinda like...
i remembered my pomen once said that kancil/kelisa/kenari change engine mounts more than a 4cyl or more
the ultimate poison... bigger piston + balance/blueprinted + hi cam + standaoneplonk in K3ve + itb.. hows that sound??
I'm not quite sure. I think vr2turbo can explain better
Nvm I call him to explain in other forum.
http://forum.autoworld.com.my/index.php?showtopic=91520&st=40&p=1484481&#entry1484481
Wa, VR got 65k posts over there.
twistedichc
2,000 RPM
ok, did switch place for the vacuum hose, the car can start wit oni 1 ignite & no need press pedal,but the idling problem still does exist, the rpm is @ 800 & car vibrates like hell (maybe mounting oso got prob), but I have set idle @ 1400rpm (it oni idles @ set rpm when engine is in running temp).next try & error is to remove 1 of the check valve(if my term of the round plastic thingy) in between the vacuum hose connected to auto choke. will update 2moro if possible coz gonna do it 2nite & test is on the morning cold start.
u working in hp ah bro?
I don't know about Kancil and Kenari, but Kelisa mounts I've changed before and it's bloody expensive because of the subframe mounts and the engine mounts. Both need to be changed at the same time and that's roughly about RM800 for ori mounts from Perodua excluding workmanship. All in it'll be 1k+
In my case even though I DIY-ed, buying the mounts was 500+ and removing the damn mounts and engine and all was a super pain in the ass since the engine drops downwards. Need to use support bracing and all. Very very difficult job for a one man show with insufficient tools. If I had the dual stage hydraulic lifter in my house that would've made it easier. But then that would mean my house would be a full scale garage already.
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Wah! you find until Autoworld to flush me out ah?.....hahahahaha
Basically is like what others call it "air leak". For Carb, it is more efficient as there is no ECU to counter it. If car already running lean may not work. Works well with heavy fc cars. MAP sensor I heard some work, some don't. With air flow sensor still can, the air let in from pcv valve link to inlet manifold, therefore air flow sensor does not sense it.
As bro. SF mentioned the device is actually from the kembara as they are still using this manual device for it's FICD...You can DIY if you have the device just plug a plastic fuel filter to act as an air filter....
Open pod is in front, once air pass the air flow sensor the ECU will counter. Oh! it is for NA cars only turbo won't work....
Like Izso said before, if NA cars that have ECU, installing the Air Valve wouldn't help? Since the ECU will adapt to it after awhile. May feel difference at start but not anymore after ECU adapt?
I didn't flush u out, Google placed Sifu's Post No.1 on top
Yip, that's what they said too, change mounting more frequent, especially if the 3 cyl is actually an A/T.
Next time if I go MEX, if I here a kepish kepish kancil passing by, I will give way.
Wa, VR got 65k posts over there.
If not he will not be known around Malaysia and gain the title Grandmaster.
Do keep us updated bro. My mech told me if want to reduce vibration can increase the idling point but then FC will be slightly affected after installing the air valve. I told him is okay then. Can cope.
But the vibration is really strong during cold start and the car nowadays will die off if didnt step on the pedal. Running lean but he will get it check for me and cant remember what sensor to adjust he mentioned previously.
I don't know about Kancil and Kenari, but Kelisa mounts I've changed before and it's bloody expensive because of the subframe mounts and the engine mounts. Both need to be changed at the same time and that's roughly about RM800 for ori mounts from Perodua excluding workmanship. All in it'll be 1k+
In my case even though I DIY-ed, buying the mounts was 500+ and removing the damn mounts and engine and all was a super pain in the ass since the engine drops downwards. Need to use support bracing and all. Very very difficult job for a one man show with insufficient tools. If I had the dual stage hydraulic lifter in my house that would've made it easier. But then that would mean my house would be a full scale garage already.
Nowadays the mounting very cheap liao. No longer as costly as before. RM200+ one set as I was told by the sparepart shop.
I don't know about Kancil and Kenari, but Kelisa mounts I've changed before and it's bloody expensive because of the subframe mounts and the engine mounts. Both need to be changed at the same time and that's roughly about RM800 for ori mounts from Perodua excluding workmanship. All in it'll be 1k+
In my case even though I DIY-ed, buying the mounts was 500+ and removing the damn mounts and engine and all was a super pain in the ass since the engine drops downwards. Need to use support bracing and all. Very very difficult job for a one man show with insufficient tools. If I had the dual stage hydraulic lifter in my house that would've made it easier. But then that would mean my house would be a full scale garage already.
We waiting for you to buy over your neighbor's house.....
---------- Post added at 09:47 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:42 AM ----------
Like Izso said before, if NA cars that have ECU, installing the Air Valve wouldn't help? Since the ECU will adapt to it after awhile. May feel difference at start but not anymore after ECU adapt?
I didn't flush u out, Google placed Sifu's Post No.1 on top
If not he will not be known around Malaysia and gain the title Grandmaster.
Do keep us updated bro. My mech told me if want to reduce vibration can increase the idling point but then FC will be slightly affected after installing the air valve. I told him is okay then. Can cope.
But the vibration is really strong during cold start and the car nowadays will die off if didnt step on the pedal. Running lean but he will get it check for me and cant remember what sensor to adjust he mentioned previously.
Like in my Hyjndai using air flow sensor, I cheat it by letting air in from the other end direct into manifold...
Ah! is it, I did not know woh!:hmmmm:
No lah! what well known....
Your carb got sensor to adjust? I think the other screw that is hidden one to adjust the air....
I don't know about Kancil and Kenari, but Kelisa mounts I've changed before and it's bloody expensive because of the subframe mounts and the engine mounts. Both need to be changed at the same time and that's roughly about RM800 for ori mounts from Perodua excluding workmanship. All in it'll be 1k+
In my case even though I DIY-ed, buying the mounts was 500+ and removing the damn mounts and engine and all was a super pain in the ass since the engine drops downwards. Need to use support bracing and all. Very very difficult job for a one man show with insufficient tools. If I had the dual stage hydraulic lifter in my house that would've made it easier. But then that would mean my house would be a full scale garage already.
I've heard you mentioned this before somewhere over here that Kelisa mounting is even more expensive than Wira. Why is so? Or is it because the mountings are imported from Japan?
BTW, how much does Wira engine mounting costs? My mechanic told me that mine should be replace already if I want.
Like Izso said before, if NA cars that have ECU, installing the Air Valve wouldn't help? Since the ECU will adapt to it after awhile. May feel difference at start but not anymore after ECU adapt?
I didn't flush u out, Google placed Sifu's Post No.1 on top
Yip, that's what they said too, change mounting more frequent, especially if the 3 cyl is actually an A/T.
Next time if I go MEX, if I here a kepish kepish kancil passing by, I will give way.
If not he will not be known around Malaysia and gain the title Grandmaster.
Do keep us updated bro. My mech told me if want to reduce vibration can increase the idling point but then FC will be slightly affected after installing the air valve. I told him is okay then. Can cope.
But the vibration is really strong during cold start and the car nowadays will die off if didnt step on the pedal. Running lean but he will get it check for me and cant remember what sensor to adjust he mentioned previously.
Nowadays the mounting very cheap liao. No longer as costly as before. RM200+ one set as I was told by the sparepart shop.
You put unker VR on table already. Grandmaster in the country.
renesis, my perdana mouting MMC costs rm75 per pc, wira should be approx. rm40-50 per pc.
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Some poison. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUWrsiPAoos
I also not sure what is it, but will bring over let him see. So if i want to install the air valve in Jetta also can?
Yes, Daihatsu Mounting from Japan then is costly. Now ori Daihatsu and Normal one almost same price. Price not much difference.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUWrsiPAoos
Like in my Hyjndai using air flow sensor, I cheat it by letting air in from the other end direct into manifold...
Ah! is it, I did not know woh!:hmmmm:
No lah! what well known....
Your carb got sensor to adjust? I think the other screw that is hidden one to adjust the air....
I also not sure what is it, but will bring over let him see. So if i want to install the air valve in Jetta also can?
I've heard you mentioned this before somewhere over here that Kelisa mounting is even more expensive than Wira. Why is so? Or is it because the mountings are imported from Japan?
BTW, how much does Wira engine mounting costs? My mechanic told me that mine should be replace already if I want.
You put unker VR on table already. Grandmaster in the country.
Yes, Daihatsu Mounting from Japan then is costly. Now ori Daihatsu and Normal one almost same price. Price not much difference.
45-50 is way cheaper than Kelisa then. Thanks for the info, Danz.
Some poison.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tUWrsiPAoos
I also not sure what is it, but will bring over let him see. So if i want to install the air valve in Jetta also can?
Yes, Daihatsu Mounting from Japan then is costly. Now ori Daihatsu and Normal one almost same price. Price not much difference.
Perodua should have just manufacture it here for the sake of convenience and budget of their customers.
twistedichc
2,000 RPM
I don't know about Kancil and Kenari, but Kelisa mounts I've changed before and it's bloody expensive because of the subframe mounts and the engine mounts. Both need to be changed at the same time and that's roughly about RM800 for ori mounts from Perodua excluding workmanship. All in it'll be 1k+
In my case even though I DIY-ed, buying the mounts was 500+ and removing the damn mounts and engine and all was a super pain in the ass since the engine drops downwards. Need to use support bracing and all. Very very difficult job for a one man show with insufficient tools. If I had the dual stage hydraulic lifter in my house that would've made it easier. But then that would mean my house would be a full scale garage already.
posted edi bout my fish mounting, if u tell them wira owner the price the mouth surely drop1:0
wifey lenovo wit tapatalk
VR4 MMC ones last time RM200 plus. Nowadays don't know from where RM90 plus so use first....hahahaha
---------- Post added at 04:38 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:37 PM ----------
Jetta can I think, just ask Fong, he should know as he tried on many makes and model, so which work and don't he has better idea...
yup... guilty as charged... you oso?
Me wangan 110 km/h only..... not dare venture more since it'll be at 5k rpm and my suspensions kinda mismatch of ori L5 springs + proride heavy duty shocks (long stroke like original but hard like the sport variant)... kinda bouncy and twitchyNext time if I go MEX, if I here a kepish kepish kancil passing by, I will give way.
after the speedcut removed, me manage to hit 160km/h (based on my gps app) but the car bouncy and the front tires seem lifted made me scared to try again
maybe need sports coilover set + final drive change to kelisa ones then maybe i can achieve higher hehe
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