The mighty 2jz or The legendary RB26

[[PIMPIN]]

Actually its true what you've said about the stock suspension. I used to know a couple of guys with R32GTRs back in Perth who would run stock rear suspension but slightly stiffer aftermarket ones up front. Worked pretty well too, cause one ran easy 12's with very basic mods and the other 11's naturally with more work done. I remember the early days of experimenting - trying various tire pressures but the best was this guy who had a few stacks of scrap paper in his boot ROFL.

The GTR will still 'squat' however since its not full time 4wd until its beloved attessa works its magic. The weight doesn't really shift to the front when you accelerate forward would it? When you brake the weight pitches forward instead kan?

 

[shark79]

yup the gtr will squat but not for long as the power will be distributed to the front taking away the pressure from the back...the weight doesnt shift to the front but what happens is bcoz of the 4wd power will be distributed near perfect to all the wheels this will lead to not enough weight shifted to the rear...remember the rear will come into play first then the front ...so by the time the front can compensate for the lost of traction at the rear it will be too late...its about split sec in drag racing...no doubt there are 6/7sec gtr but the record holder is still a rear wheel drive car

 

[[PIMPIN]]

I don't understand. Why is weight being at the rear so important?

Drag racing is all about getting the power to the ground, as fast as possible and with as much forward traction as can be achieved in order to cover the distance in the shortest elapsed time. That's what the ATTESA system does. It distributes torque to all four wheels as fast as possible. Shouldn't the system be expected to overcome whatever weight distribution issues, etc therefore getting power to all four wheels?

Granted, all the fastest drag cars are RWD but those that do the 400m dash in 7secs and faster can barely be called cars. I'm more interested in comparing real road driven cars - fast, modified but still streetable, not tube frame chassis, etc or top fuel dragsters. The type you might run into on NKVE or something hahah

 

[kaminari]

Eh i thought this 2J vs RB26 topic?hehehe

Bro PIMPIN,

WHY?Still confusing yea hehe.This is Physic, Newton`s Law....we called it INERTIA
"objects at rest tend to stay at rest."

It`s same feeling once u take corner/turn, Eg: turn left,but ur car weight/body shifting to right side.So the accelaration of car will shift most weight to the rear~

I would say ATTESA-Pro on BNR34 is smart torque distributor by reducing wheel spinning to all wheels.From stand point 20:80 then 30:70 then 40:60.On BNR32 is fix 40:60...so they need aftermarket torque distributor to adjust it.

By PULL or PUSH law, FR is more advantage rather than FF which happen losing traction since wheel spinning regardless their HP.On the other hands, AWD is HEAVY with those extra longshaft,driveshaft and gearbox but would be solve by POWER to Weight ratio.

:)

 

[omaroDDin]

aiya. u guys still thinking which is the best ar?
see the ultimate 6 inline challenge which is participated by the mine's GTR n the monster supra.
2jz is memang power but its not as stable if compared to the rb.

 

[jinkl]

i would say
i will vote for the 2jz, first it price wise, its so much cheaper
2nd thing, u dnt need to disturb the internals and oil pump or etc to slap it hard
technology wise i would vote for the rb26 , bt its going to take a lot of more cash to make it a beast , this if im talking 2jz and rb26 in the same kind of body, minus the transmission

 

[cosmicgate]

actually the first stage tuning of 2jz is cheaper than rb26, after that it can get really deep, but still cheaper lah compared to rb26.

so have we drew a conclusion yet to which is the better engine?

 

[BLaCkHoWLiNG]

rB!! 2JZ is designed by motosikal company.. fucking useless... stay away from 2jz!!

 

[khoyos]

rB!! 2JZ is designed by motosikal company.. fucking useless... stay away from 2jz!!

and also worthless piece of junk! my 2jz halfcut cost me rm3k only! how can cheap items be good?

 

[cmng]

yea.. it a junk engine

so blackhowling
i offer you RM4k for your engine turbo , the 6 speed gearbox. ecu, wiring bla bla bla


Khoyos

your is RM1.5k package as above ..

engine must be working and running condition
how ?

Bump: yea.. it a junk engine

so blackhowling
i offer you RM4k for your engine turbo , the 6 speed gearbox. ecu, wiring bla bla bla


Khoyos

your is RM1.5k package as above ..

engine must be working and running condition
how ?

 

[khoyos]

1.5k + 996 porsche brakeset+suitable rotors+pads front n rear installed on my car. deal.

i know where to source the engine n gearbox hehe...

 

[shark79]

cheap sale anyone........whats the market price for 2jz vvti auto 1/2 cut?

Bump: cheap sale anyone........whats the market price for 2jz vvti auto 1/2 cut?

 

[cmng]

1.5k + 996 porsche brakeset+suitable rotors+pads front n rear installed on my car. deal.

i know where to source the engine n gearbox hehe...

you are too late
the porsche brake is sold liow

so offer just RM1.5k saja

 

[BLaCkHoWLiNG]

cmng:



Bump: cmng:

 

[cmng]

ha.. too high ?

then RM3500

how ?

 

[shark79]

the sound of both engines....2j ,rb26......the rb26 has more grunt(sound) due to its 6 throttle....set up

 

[renxun]

damm ... kyoshos.... u get your 2j half cut at 3k only???? can help me source one as my spare ka..?

i know im not up to par yet to comment .. as im only using 1jz. my latest project was not dont YET atm. so with everything bolted up on my 1jz im running near 500whp on pump fuel and unopened internals. i just did turbo, management, fuelings, stronger clutch to hold and thermal handling upgrades. However with everything still the same i knw it would be very xpensive if i go aftermarket internals for bigger boost and higher rev range.

So cheapest way is to go for the 1.5j option where i only need to change to new 2jz timing belt, new piston rings,aftermarket main and conrod bearings and a little bit of work to the water piping works n xhaust where the existing turbo will have to sit abit higher and a bigger turbine housing. else i will have a low torque monster with the xtra displacement to blow my "snail" and its cheap as Fcuk for an engine kosong and some little bits here and there.. i have my finger crossed as im not sure at what whp i can run with this setup. but i hope i can run at about additional 50whp frm my previous setup. i know its not big number for some people for my lousy old toyota car which already aged at near 30years old it can be pretty scary on my side to handle too

although its only a 2jz bottom i hope that i have the right to give opinion on 2jz behalf. rb26 i have 0 knowledge as so far only 2 person i knew is using it where one is remain stock and another one had some mild mods in it.. so i reli couldnt comment anything. problem wise i dun see any trouble with them running as i still see them driving around town picking up chicks almost everynight

Bump: damm ... kyoshos.... u get your 2j half cut at 3k only???? can help me source one as my spare ka..?

i know im not up to par yet to comment .. as im only using 1jz. my latest project was not dont YET atm. so with everything bolted up on my 1jz im running near 500whp on pump fuel and unopened internals. i just did turbo, management, fuelings, stronger clutch to hold and thermal handling upgrades. However with everything still the same i knw it would be very xpensive if i go aftermarket internals for bigger boost and higher rev range.

So cheapest way is to go for the 1.5j option where i only need to change to new 2jz timing belt, new piston rings,aftermarket main and conrod bearings and a little bit of work to the water piping works n xhaust where the existing turbo will have to sit abit higher and a bigger turbine housing. else i will have a low torque monster with the xtra displacement to blow my "snail" and its cheap as Fcuk for an engine kosong and some little bits here and there.. i have my finger crossed as im not sure at what whp i can run with this setup. but i hope i can run at about additional 50whp frm my previous setup. i know its not big number for some people for my lousy old toyota car which already aged at near 30years old it can be pretty scary on my side to handle too

although its only a 2jz bottom i hope that i have the right to give opinion on 2jz behalf. rb26 i have 0 knowledge as so far only 2 person i knew is using it where one is remain stock and another one had some mild mods in it.. so i reli couldnt comment anything. problem wise i dun see any trouble with them running as i still see them driving around town picking up chicks almost everynight

Bump: damm ... kyoshos.... u get your 2j half cut at 3k only???? can help me source one as my spare ka..?

i know im not up to par yet to comment .. as im only using 1jz. my latest project was not dont YET atm. so with everything bolted up on my 1jz im running near 500whp on pump fuel and unopened internals. i just did turbo, management, fuelings, stronger clutch to hold and thermal handling upgrades. However with everything still the same i knw it would be very xpensive if i go aftermarket internals for bigger boost and higher rev range.

So cheapest way is to go for the 1.5j option where i only need to change to new 2jz timing belt, new piston rings,aftermarket main and conrod bearings and a little bit of work to the water piping works n xhaust where the existing turbo will have to sit abit higher and a bigger turbine housing. else i will have a low torque monster with the xtra displacement to blow my "snail" and its cheap as Fcuk for an engine kosong and some little bits here and there.. i have my finger crossed as im not sure at what whp i can run with this setup. but i hope i can run at about additional 50whp frm my previous setup. i know its not big number for some people for my lousy old toyota car which already aged at near 30years old it can be pretty scary on my side to handle too

although its only a 2jz bottom i hope that i have the right to give opinion on 2jz behalf. rb26 i have 0 knowledge as so far only 2 person i knew is using it where one is remain stock and another one had some mild mods in it.. so i reli couldnt comment anything. problem wise i dun see any trouble with them running as i still see them driving around town picking up chicks almost everynight

 

[BLaCkHoWLiNG]

renxun: dun tipu.. 1jz ..2jz all useless engine...1.5J lagi teruk... don... pls look away

Bump: renxun: dun tipu.. 1jz ..2jz all useless engine...1.5J lagi teruk... don... pls look away

 

[shark79]

bro share la some info...dontla have the whole pie fr urself...

Bump: bro share la some info...dontla have the whole pie fr urself...

 

[renxun]

ya .. lets keep the price low...so i can blow more engine in future

Bump: ya .. lets keep the price low...so i can blow more engine in future

 

[khoyos]

the engine is affordable. market price for non-vvti engine kosong is around 2.5k n engine lantai around 3k complete with wiring, ecu, twin turbos etc.

but the gearbox is farking expensive n too hard to find. if i come across any for sale cheaps, for sure i'll buy n keep as spare...

 

[cmng]

friend.. why you need to keep a spare since the gearbox rarely have issue ?

 

[BLaCkHoWLiNG]

cmng: his car power gila.. so always fuckup gearboxes...

Bump:

ya .. lets keep the price low...so i can blow more engine in future

Bump: ya .. lets keep the price low...so i can blow more engine in future

if u can blow it la

 

[cosmicgate]

LOL renxun

 

[khoyos]

friend.. why you need to keep a spare since the gearbox rarely have issue ?

i had issue with my 1st gearbox, now 2nd gearbox running sweet n smooth. better be safe than sorry, keep 1 as extra.