My Noobie Dictionary :D

[DewA_LavaU]

just wan to share some of my info digging at lancerregister.com:X-:

Originally posted by oilman
No they are no good.
Have a read.
General Remarks on Chlorinated Additives.
A number of ‘add-on’ additives intended to improve the performance of commercially available automotive lubricants have been marketed in recent years, under such names as ‘Xxtralube ZX-1’, ‘Metol FX-1’, ‘PPL Anti-Friction’ and ‘Activ-8’.All such products share the following characteristics with ‘X-1R Friction Eliminator’:-
1) They all contain chlorinated paraffin ‘exteme pressure’(EP) compounds first used in the 1930s in heavily-loaded industrial gearboxes, and in some automotive transmission applications, mainly hypoid gears.
2) They all corrode copper-based alloys at moderate temperatures, easily exceeded in all engine, and most transmission applications.This problem was recognised in the 1930s, and chlorinated compounds were never used in transmissions with bronze bearings or gears. No responsible manufacturer ever suggested using them in engines where their increasing activity at high temperatures could lead to piston ring corrosion and bore glazing. (For the same reason, modern ‘hypoid’ additives are not used in engines, even though they are much safer than any chlorinated additive.)
3) X-1R Friction Eliminator and its clones are based upon very outdated technology, which was abandoned by responsible lubricant manufacturers for automotive transmission uses in the 1950s. Chlorinated compounds still find applications in metal working, but their use is on the decline because of health and safety considerations.
4) When burnt, chlorinated paraffins produce corrosive hydrochloric acid, and organo-chlorine compounds including the highly poisonous phosgene gas. Apart from these corrosion and health hazards, with petrol engines the deactivation of exhaust catalysts is also a problem.
5) Unfortunately, these additives give spectacular results in simple EP test machines such as the ‘Falex’. As a marketing ploy, a demonstration of this type looks impressive to those not aquainted with the above facts. Also attractive is the low cost of chlorinated compounds, allowing profits of several thousand percent to be made.
Cheers
Simon.

i've just planning to buy Tufoil for my engine.Is tufoil not good oso???anyone pls enlighten me~!:mouth_closed:

 

[DewA_LavaU]

About Engine Oil

Originally posted by oilman
Perhaps I should explain the reasons for not recommending what would seem the logical choice 5w-50.
Basically I've not yet seen a good one due to the wide viscosity range for a 5w-50 multigrade. (Fuchs do a PAO based one which is probably the best I've seen)
To make a multigrade work with such a wide range, it requires bucket loads of VI Improvers which makes it more prone to shear
meaning that within a couple of thousand miles it will be a 5w-40 or 5w-30 giving less protection over time than a shear stable 5w-40 which requires far less VI Improvers to make it work.
Hope this makes sense as it's difficult to explain.
Basically the wider the viscosity range the more prone the oil is to thermal breakdown unless proper (ester/pao) basestocks are used which are thermally stable and needing less VI Improvers to prop them up.
VISCOSITY INDEX IMPROVERS
As a lubricant basestock is subjected to increasing temperatures it tends to lose its viscosity. In other words, it thins out. This leads to decreased engine protection and a higher likelihood of metal to metal contact. Therefore, if this viscosity loss can be minimized, the probability of unnecessary engine wear will be reduced.
This is where viscosity index (VI) improvers come in.
VI improvers are polymers that expand and contract with changes in temperature. At low temperatures they are very compact and affect the viscosity of a lubricant very little. But, at high temperatures these polymers "expand" into much larger long-chain polymers which significantly increase the viscosity of their host lubricant.
So, as the basestock loses viscosity with increases in temperature, VI improvers “fight back” against the viscosity drop by increasing their size. The higher the molecular weight of the polymers used, the better the power of "thickening" within the lubricant. Unfortunately, an increase in molecular weight also leads to an inherent instability of the polymers themselves. They become much more prone to shearing within an engine.
As these polymers are sheared back to lower molecular weight molecules, their effectiveness as a VI improver decreases. Unfortunately, because petroleum basestocks are so prone to viscosity loss at high temperatures, high molecular weight polymers must be used. Since these polymers are more prone to shearing than lower molecular weight polymers, petroleum oils tend to shear back very quickly.
In other words, they lose their ability to maintain their viscosity at high temperatures.
Synthetic basestocks, on the other hand, are much less prone to viscosity loss at high temperatures. Therefore, lower molecular weight polymers may be used as VI improvers.
These polymers are less prone to shearing, so they are effective for a much longer period of time than the VI improvers used in petroleum oils. In other words, synthetic oils do not quickly lose their ability to maintain viscosity at high temperatures as petroleum oils do.
In fact, some synthetic basestocks are so stable at high temperatures they need little or no VI improvers at all. Obviously, these basestocks will maintain their high temperature viscosities for a very long time since there are no VI improvers to break down.

Cheers
Simon

ohh ya others member are encourage to copy paste any quote which u think relevant to be share here :_: :X-: SHARING IS CARING~!

 

[DewA_LavaU]

Why we should consider Esther Based Engine Oil?

slivia bro now u have to give me special discount on your Sunoco product hehehehehehe :_: :shades_smile:

Originally posted by Scrappy
Hiya Si,
A rally team uses Silkolene Pro R 15w/50 Oil on my Evo7 FQ300 (approx 17K miles)
Now whats the difference between this and Silkolene Pro S 10w/50 Oil as the Pro S is slightly more expensive and i wondered why??
cheers
Jono

Originally posted by oilman
They both excellent products but the formulation on the S is more expensive. There is more ester in the S than the R which makes it a slightly better product.
They are both streets ahead of most of the competition though.
What I do find surprising is the choice of viscosity.
I would have put them in this order for suitabiliy:
Pro S 5w-40
Pro S 10w-50
Pro R 15w-50
Cheers
Simon

Originally posted by Scrappy
Ahh cheers mate, :cool:
So basically heres what i think, both Pro S and Pro R have the same properties and perform exactly the same when the engine is hot hence the 50W. On cold startup however the Pro S 10W-50 is better than the Pro R 15W-50 as it reaches the engines components quicker due to the 100% esters involved. So theoritically a 5W-50 oil would be even better. Does that sound right?
Cheers.
Jono
Ps why do rally teams use thicker oil then? maybe something to do with leaks? I guess they are not as bothered about engine wear at cold start cos they are constantly rebuilding them.

Originally posted by oilman
You're correct apart form the 5w-50 bit.
Wide viscosity oils are less stable as they need more VI Improvers
and this makes them prone to shear.
5w-40 is a far more thermally stable grade than 5w-50 as is 10w-50 vs 10w-60 - Get it?
Cheers
Simon

Originally posted by oilman
I'll demonstrate to you why they use thicker oils.
Names witheld at request.
From: xxxx
Sent: 07 May 2004 16:16
To: Rowland, John
Subject: Peugeot Cosworth - result!
John
Just a note to let you know I've heard from xxxx - the rally driver with the 300+bhp Peugeot-ice-racer-bodied hybrid with the normally asthmatic Cosworth in the back.
Prior to you taking over, he used to have to strip the engine after every event (normally 45 miles, he couldn't get it to last for a National event of 70-80 miles) and change the big end bearings every time.
He'd been everywhere and tried everything (including Halfords!), and couldn't solve his problem.
First off, he was really surprised when you asked to look at the bearings, as no-one had ever asked! He was equally surprised by your recommendation to go thinner, and also, I have to say, worried. He equated 'thickness' with 'better
protection'.
I eventually persuaded him to try Pro S 5w/40, as you suggested.
He called me to say he'd stripped the engine this week, after it's FOURTH event (approx 200 competitive miles!), and there isn't a mark on it. He is utterly delighted, and asked me to pass on his thanks for all your help and expertise.
I'd also like to add my thanks to you. He is extremely influential in competition circles, and is now going to tell the world and his wife what, and who, sorted this problem.

Once again, many thanks
Regards
I would also add to this that most top rally teams in modern cars (Subaru etc) use 5w-40 proper synthetics. In their case MOTUL 300V 5w-40. I have this confirmed by MOTUL.
Cheers
Simon

Originally posted by Scrappy
This is very interesting stuff Simon, thankyou for taking the time to reply ;)
So now im left with which one to go for.
Now bearing in mind that i drive my car very hard. Its probably running about 310-315bhp. If i go for the shear stable 5W-40 i will have great cold start protection but if i run the car very hard i am better off with a higher Viscousity oil such as a 10W-50 or 15W-50 (currently) however isnt the 10W-50 oil less thermally stable than the 15W-50 grade due to the higher Viscosity range? Does this mean that the 10W will Bio-degrade faster than the 15W thus more frequent oil changes but better overall temperature range/Lubricity protection due to the 100% Ester content?? Basically the more Ester molecules, the better + healthier/cleaner the engine runs??
btw
What oil Viscosity was the rally driver using prior to changing to 5W-40?
cheers
Jono

Originally posted by oilman
I would go for the PRO S 5w-40.
He was using 15w-50.
Cheers
Simon

 

[DewA_LavaU]

About Engine Flushing~

Engine Flushing!

Originally posted by oilman

DOnt use a flushing oil or addative, if you want to flush the engine, follow this proceedure as some flusher are a kerosene or parrafin mix
Flushing Procedure (Don’t use flushing oils or additives)
1. Warm up engine to get oil circulating
2. Turn off engine and drain old oil
3. Fill with new oil to minimum (you will be wasting this)
4. Warm up engine to get oil circulating
5. Turn off engine, drain new oil and change filter
6. Fill to marker on dipstick
Cheers
Simon.

 

[DewA_LavaU]

For Speed Run Kaki!~

some nice info~!hihi:shades_smile:

Originally posted by kamil
Very interesting thread for a new Evo owner. Let me ask one question which seems still not clear for me.
I have brand new 265 Evo VIII. After running it in I'm going to change to the very best oil for it because I use my cars very hard to their very last breath and want the best protection for all my abuse. In previous cars I learned that Motul 300V oils are at the very top at the moment. I used LeMans 15W60 and Competition 15W50 later and they proved to be really buletproof. But it was in very loose V6 Alfa engine. Now when it comes to much tighter Mitsi turbo 4G63 I'm a bit confused - should I stay with thick 15W50 or choose much thinner 5W40?
My main objective is protection - this engine must stand hard driving for prolonged periods of time, like track days or all-weekends-long mountain blasts.
Will I tune it? Most likely so but not much, just to release it's full potential, like 300-320 bhp.
So what sould I put into my Evo? What are the pros and cons of 5W40 and 15W50 for my car?

Originally posted by oilman
Believe me, your car doesn't need 15w or sae 50.
You need a proper race 5w-40 for the best all round protection as the oil flows more rapidly at start up preventing wear.
You should look at the pao/ester basestock oils like Silkolene PRO S 5w-40 or Motul 300V 5w-40 as these are the best quality.
I sell them both and there's a group buy offer on at the mo.
Before you ask, there's nothing in it I just prefer the Silkolene due to my dealings with them for over 10 years and the proven track record over countless years.
Cheers
Simon

Originally posted by kamil
Thanks for a quick reply, Simon.
OK, I also feel this engine doesn't need thick oil. But let me ask (just for my curiosity) - would 15W50 be somehow wrong for this engine, like too thick? You recommend 15W50 for highly tuned Evos - for better thermal and stress protection I guess. So isn't it that 15W50 would also protect stock engine better? Would be very grateful for making this clear to me :)
I'll stay with the Motul, because where I live Silkolene is not available.

Originally posted by oilman
It's simply too thick and 5w-40 will be fine so long as it's a decent PAO/Ester one which is very shear stable.
Unless you are running temps above 110degC, stick with 5w-40 as this is thicker at 110degC than a 15w-50 at 140degC.
See here:
Some Figures: Pro-S 5W/40 Typ. 15W/50
Visc. at 100C 14.9 18.2
Visc at 110C 12.06 14.53
Visc. at 140C 7.09 8.25

So, at an ‘oil-cooler’ temp of 110C, the 5W/40 is still thicker than the 15W/50 at 140C.
Cheers,
Simon

 

[DewA_LavaU]

Castor-based Engine Oil?

Interesting Fact!

Originally posted by oilman
Castorene is Castor based and I have not written what follows, it was written by the Silkolene Chemist in response to a query that I raised but I'm posting it because it is probably the best explanation from a true expert (chemist).
Quote:
There is no doubt that castor oil , even by today’s standards, is a superb lubricant. It is, in common with all vegetable oils, a triglyceride, but the 3 fatty acids attached to the glycerol are almost always ricinoleic acid. (Plus the odd oleic and linoleic.) This unusual composition (which makes it indigestible!) imparts unique properties, notably high viscosity, (50SAE), a low solidification point, (-10 to -18C), and a highly polar nature which means the molecules are attracted to metal surfaces by electrostatic forces.
This makes castor oil a very good ‘boundary’ or thin-film lubricant; the adsorbed castor molecules prevent micro-welding of metal-to-metal contacts between moving surfaces. (Commonly called ‘wear’!).
Now for the bad news. Castor oxidises rapidly at fairly high temperatures to produce high-viscosity polymers, which can solidify into insoluble gums and lacquers. These oxidation products can attack copper alloys, and the soluble copper compounds accelerate oxidation into a destructive feedback loop. Pure castor is at its best in total-loss applications (1st WW rotary aero engines, for example).
But!.........the oxidation stability of castor can be improved. Just adding some mineral oil helps (as in the 1930’s Castrol R), but the real advance came in the 1960s-70s when antioxidants developed for synthetic ester jet engine oils were found to work well in castor. So the modern Castrol R is a mixture of castor, mineral oil and special anti-oxidants. However, it is possible to improve on this by using castor, antioxidants, copper passivators and heat-resistant synthetic esters. (Castor is a ‘natural’ ester.
Most synthetic esters are very good thin-film boundary lubricants.) Oddly enough, this is a description of Silkolene Castorene R40 and 40S. (What a coincidence!) This approach gives the oil a reasonable life, even in modern non-turbocharged petrol engines. (Up to 5 race hours, or 1000 road miles.) In the long term, dirty engine internals and jammed piston rings can be a problem.
A safer bet is Silkolene Pro-R 15W/50. Widely used in modified cars, this grade is excellent due to its high shear stability and high synthetic ester content.
Unquote:
I hope this helps.
Cheers
Simon

Originally posted by JIGGA
Simon, one last question: What did he (chemist) mean by "In the long term, dirty engine internals and jammed piston rings can be a problem."? Does this mean that by using the oil for a longer period of time (in excess of 5 race hours and/or 1,000 road miles) that this will happen or just overall prolonged use of this castor based oil will cause engine internals to be excesively dirty and possibly jamming of piston rings?

thanks in advance,

Aurelio

Originally posted by oilman
He is saying that this is far more of a potential downside when using castor based oils.

Personally I would look for ester based ones like Silkolene Pro or Motul 300V, a far more practical and durable oil.

Esters

All jet engines are lubricated with synthetic esters, and have been for 50 years, but these expensive fluids only started to appear in petrol engine oils about 20 years ago.

Thanks to their aviation origins, the types suitable for lubricants ) work well from –50 degC to 200 degC, and they have a useful extra trick.

Due to their structure, ester molecules are “polar”; they stick to metal surfaces using electrostatic forces. This means that a protective layer is there at all times, even during that crucial start-up period. This helps to protect cams, gears, piston rings and valve train components, where lubrication is “boundary” rather than “hydrodynamic”, i.e. a very thin non-pressure fed film has to hold the surface apart. Even crank bearings benefit at starts, stops or when extreme shock loads upset the “hydrodynamic” film.

Cheers
Simon

 

[DewA_LavaU]

Lancer Color Code!

taken from evolutionm.net :)

Thunder Gray Metallic Clearcoat A02
Coronado Sand Metallic Clearcoat A26
Satellite Silver Metallic Clearcoat A69
Rio Red Metallic Clearcoat R20
Nares Blue Pearl Clearcoat T38
Diamond White Pearl Tricoat W13
Scotia White W83
Amethyst Black Pearl Clearcoat X42
Lightning Yellow Y01

 

[DewA_LavaU]

US Modz CS3A :)

taken from evolutionm.net :) nice,clean & simple & I LIKE THE RIMS!hihi

 

[DewA_LavaU]

Thread of nice looking CS3A Bodykit Modz! :)

for CS3A lover this link dedicated for you (and myself).taken from evolutionm.net

http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?p=3291968#post3291968

 

[DewA_LavaU]

Nice looking Lancer Cedia Modz!!!

taken from evolutionm.net :)

 

[DewA_LavaU]

Cedia Rulezzzz~

taken from evolutionm.net :X-:

Evo 7 Style Cedia~~!!!!Wicked!!!!!:_:

Turbocharged Cedia!!!! aaaaaaaa saliva dropping~~~!!!:_:

US-based Lancer oso using 4G18P beside 4G69 Mivec!!!this is cool!hihihihi:_:

 

[DewA_LavaU]

Wicked Cedia!!! :)

I'm observe that those US kaki like Cedia very2 much! :_:

 

[DewA_LavaU]

DIY Cedia Smoked Tail-Light Conversion~!!! :D

again taken from evolutionm.net :X-: SEXY SMOKED TAIL-LIGHT!!!hihihi:shades_smile:

 

[DewA_LavaU]

DIY Cedia Air Intake~!!! :D

salute~!:shades_smile: taken from evolutionm.net

 

[DewA_LavaU]

Massive Picz of Cedia + CS3A !!! :D

thanks to evolutionm.net :X-:

CEDIA EVO7 STYLE!!!!!

WICKED CS3A!!! aaaaaaaaaaaa~~~:shades_smile: