Engine oil getting lesser

[Fluffy]

yup.its okay to add in.i do all the time.:_:

 

[nitrus]

hehehe ok! :_:

yea i will add in with the same engine oil / same grade / same everything, from the same bottle from last service too, lol !!

 

[simplythebest]

How much to do a compression test? :cool:

 

[firasparK]

gog kokeng....hehe...ya im talking about the sport air filter like cendawan lai det 1......sir fileter must use ler...if not the engine will be chuck...hehe

firaspark.....ya then izit the endine old d,.....some time engine too oold will makan engine oil....is ok lah now...chnage new engine d wor...so happy rite...jehehehhe

hahaha yaaa!!! my cendawan red colour de :emoticon_U:

 

[canken2]

How much to do a compression test? :cool:

RM60 at Autochild

 

[nonameNo]

before you overhaul the top engine, there are few ways to check whether your engine is "eating oil"...

1) Ask someone to rev your engine up to almost red line of RPM, then you stand behind and see whether there is black or white smoke coming out. Sometimes we cant see it when engine is idle.. but can see it when you accelerate.

2) Check the engine oil gasket (where you pour in the engine oil). Check the surround of the rubber - whether it is already worn out or not. Then check any leakage on the side of the gasket hole - on the engine.

3) Check the spark plug. Check whether there is any leakage on there.

4) Check the engine side... especially the top cover part. Check the surround whether there is leakage or not.

5) Park you car and check whether there is leakage of the engine oil on the floor. If yes, then there is leakage. If no, then the leakage might be minimal. Perhap the engine oil is dried up when you drive the car and the engine is hot...

If all above is not true, then only opt for overhaul. Overhaul doesnt mean need to change the piston ring. Sometimes the mechanic just want to trick you... since the engine already open, why not change it now?

mostly is the gasket that seal around the engine cover is already worn.... do a checkup and see.

 

[vantageX]

nonameNo is correct with the tests above. Here's a few more:

Check your engine, if its dry top to bottom then you don't have an external oil leak. Conduct the above tests as nonameNo suggested though the revving to red line thing isn't really recommended with old cars cause its almost certain you're gonna see some kinda smoke coming out which doesn't necessarily mean something's wrong.

Another way oil can be escaping is thru your engine's breather system. Some people replace the breather with a small air filter. If this filter is covered with oil then you know where your leak is. If you have a original breather system then this will most certainly lead to your air filter box. Open up the air filter box and look inside, if there is any indication of oil then you know the oil is coming out of the breather pipe and into the air filter and then is taken back into the combustion chambers and burnt.

The above breather pipe mentioned is from the rocker cover. Not the crank breather assembly. The reason the breather pipes have oil coming thru is because the valve seals are leaking. This would mean a top overhaul at the least.

Another place oil can go though its somewhat uncommon would be to the clutch. There is an oil seal that is mounted between the clutch housing and the engine. This seal can sometimes leak and if its a major leak you'll sometimes notice your clutch slipping though a minor leak would be very hard to trace.

 

[mengz]

vantageX can i connect tat breather hose to a oil catch can instead of putting a filter there?

 

[vantageX]

mengz: Sure, you can connect an oil catch tank. That would be another option especially if you're losing oil thru your breather hose. It'll be better than the oil going into the combustion chamber and being burnt off.

Though an oil catch tank will collect the oil instead of it being burnt off, you can't avoid the fact that if your engine has oil coming out of the breather pipe with normal everyday driving then you do have a problem.

If you do a lot of spirited driving then do expect some oil to escape thru the breather hose.

 

[mengz]

hmmm...ok thanks for the info. i think i rather put an oil catch tank there instead of a filter, bcoz i dun want engine oil to be evaporating under my hood. but like that means got 2 oil catch can edi, one for the PCV and one for the breather...hmmmm..

 

[vantageX]

mengz: why do you need two oil catch tanks? Does your catch tank have its own air filter at the top?

What is your current oil catch tank connected to?

 

[Doink]

Yo there,

Same here, not going to overhaul the engine, is a retarded 1.3 engine.

Actually, my mech advise me to drive at moderate speed from now onwards, the engine condition is still ok, just that don't drive too harsh, like whack 6K RPM all the time.

Mileage only 88,000 km's.

Your engine oil getting lesser too? I change my engine oil every 4,000 km's now.

seems like ur car didnt run in too well during initial breaking in period...or u can check if ur engine got dirty or not with oily stuff at any part of ur engine...that shows ur gasket is bad and need replacement...ur engine is still new...
u dont need to change engine oil every 4k...just change at normal 5k...and keep the spare oil after each change...to top up when u check the car engine oil is low...

 

[gogo2]

My engine oil also getting lesser and lesser very fast last time. All shop ask me do top overhaul. But I keep on asking everyone. Then I found one place. The mechanic ask me to change valve seal instead for RM1xx. It doesn't involve opening up engine. So after changing, no more oil missing. Furthermore, during the changing of valve seal, I change my engine oil from mineral to fully synthetic. I think I'm kinda crazy that time.

 

[mengz]

mengz: why do you need two oil catch tanks? Does your catch tank have its own air filter at the top?

What is your current oil catch tank connected to?

i dun have one now, but im planning to get one and i've been reading on the net, usually the oil catch tank is connected in between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. so unless any oil catch can in the market has 2 input and 2 outputs, then i can route the breather hose into the same oil catch tank.

 

[huakenny]

i dun have one now, but im planning to get one and i've been reading on the net, usually the oil catch tank is connected in between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. so unless any oil catch can in the market has 2 input and 2 outputs, then i can route the breather hose into the same oil catch tank.

u can customize the OCT...so u only need one OCT......ehehe

 

[kyheng]

Seems like every one here have left out 1 very important thing on the engine oil lost.
Some background of engine : everything that rotate will have wear and tear include the piston rings. If the engine is rev to 4.5k and above regulary, the piston rings sure will wear faster and creating some small gap between the holder and piston.
Engine oil will change its properties when hot it will become lighter or more technical is the viscocity of the oil drops. So when the oil is hot, it will slip in to the combustion chamber and burn together with petrol. Depending on how much the slip-thru is, lesser we won't see any white smoke. When the gap is big, then we can see alot of white smoke. Petrol will tend to slip thru to engine oil also if the gap is big and make the oil become lighter. This don't have actual proof as the petrol in contaminated oil will booil off when the car is moving. So the best is don't adjust a car's timing more than factory default. If the enigine is vibrating, maybe is caused by other problem.
Below are the examples of engine consumption on an old car(8 years and above) based on normal wear and tear or an uncle cars that never rev the engine till 4.5k and above.
If we use syntactic oil(Shell Helix Utra or similar), the oil will only last you for 1-2 weeks or the lost is 50-70% as viscocity of the oil is lowest.
If semi-syntactic(Shell Helix plus), the lost will be around 30-50% as the visco is higher.
If use the lowest grade(Shell Super Standard) the lost will be 20-40% as the visco is highest.
As wear and tear we cannot avoid, at the same time want to save money for the top overhaul, so the best way is add addative to the engine oil to bring up the viscocity. Then the lost will be lesser. Like my Wira 2003(done 95k), when using semi-syntactic oil the lost is around 10-20%, if add the addative, the lost is lesser at 5% only.

 

[vantageX]

i dun have one now, but im planning to get one and i've been reading on the net, usually the oil catch tank is connected in between the PCV valve and the intake manifold. so unless any oil catch can in the market has 2 input and 2 outputs, then i can route the breather hose into the same oil catch tank.

You got your crankcase breather and your cylinder breather hoses right. Use a T joint which you can find in hardware shops or somewhere else and connect the two hoses up. A T joint has 3 connections so you have one connection left. Connect this to the oil catch tank's inlet. And the outlet is connected to your PCV. Remember seeing such a set-up on an old Austin Allegro. The Allegro had one pipe coming out from the drivers side of the engine near the clutch assembly (crankcase breather) and one pipe coming from the cylinder head cover. These 2 pipes met at a T-joint which then led to the air filter.

kyheng: Good points. But just wondering why do you still use a semi-synthetic and then add an additive to thicken up the oil? Doesn't this just defeat the purpose in the first place of using a semi-synthetic?

It has been said in the past that even new cars with high-mileage can switch to a lower grade oil to improve oil consumption and to make up for wear and tear.

 

[kyheng]

Well, you got the point, but if use lower grade oil, the engine temp will be slightly higher, if use semi syntactic the temp will be lower, that is why I have to use like this. The addative is to bring up the viscocity, but will not affect much of the oil other properties. You might feel the car abit heaviey is use lowest grade, but if use semi + addative is still like you are using semi only.
Actually in order sense, is useless also, as the addative is cost 12-1++ and have to change every 5000-6000km. Is abit subjective on this, so have to depend what we want, but if the leak is big, is better to add the addative.

 

[vantageX]

I see, what brand of additive are you using? Sounds like you're using it to stop a leak? Would it be No Smoke? The price sounds about right for No Smoke.

 

[kyheng]

The price is around 14-20, as said earlier, as said earlier, oil tends to slip-in to the combustion chamber due to piston rings wear and tear(this applied to new cars also). If the gap is small, the slip-in is less which is my car facing now. The addative is not used to stop leak, is used to make the visco higher, so if the car is running with the engine oil is hot(maybe 70°C), it will not so fast and easy to slip-in to combustion chamber. Thus the oil will not lost in short time. If really a big leak where using addative also cannot control, is better to do top overhaul.

Engine oil got certain visco index at certain temperature, the number in the container is at ambient temperature or 15°C, say 40cst. When the engine temp become 70°C, the visco will go lower, say 15cst. So at 15cst it will move/flow faster than 40cst.