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Engine Oil Change
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<blockquote data-quote="Izso" data-source="post: 1063844996" data-attributes="member: 2429"><p>I posted this sometime ago.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/features/384644-simplified-guide-to-engine-oils.html" target="_blank">http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/features/384644-simplified-guide-to-engine-oils.html</a></p><p></p><p>Engine oil has several factors, the base oil, the additives and the detergents. The better the base oil the better the oil is and the more expensive it is. Ester based being the best (group 5 usually).</p><p></p><p>The additives are things like friction modifiers, octane boosters and other secret recipes.</p><p></p><p>Detergents are those that clean the internals of your engine bay. Cleaning out sludge, varnish and whatever. </p><p></p><p>Getting a fully synthetic doesn't necessarily mean it'll last 20k km, but it does mean it'll last longer than semi's and minerals. And fully syn won't leave deposits like mineral oils does.</p><p></p><p>A good fully syn like the 5W40 from Honda is pretty good for constant high revving engines and doesn't break down as easily say compared to Pennzoil's 5W30 fully syn.</p><p></p><p>Good detergent fully syns like Royal Purple didn't even last 8000km for me. Engine ended up really rough and FC was bad after 7000km++ but it cleared out so much sludge I ended up discovering some broken oil seals which were clogged by the sludge. </p><p></p><p>Dirty oil indicates the detergents is doing its job. Clean oil after say 8000km I'd be suspicious of the oil quality. The only real way to find out how good or bad an oil is, is to use a UOA test kit and send the test kit results for analysis. But let's be honest - how many people will do that? So in the end it's always about word of mouth or butt tests.</p><p></p><p>If you have a look at my article on the camshaft, you'll see that my cylinder head is super clean, no yellowish varnish anywhere and everything is still silver in colour. Nice... and... clean. </p><p></p><p>5.5k RPM revving isn't really that high unless you're talking about 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, then you're a heavy footer! <img src="https://zerotohundred.com/forums/styles/default/xenforo/smilies/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":biggrin:" title="Biggrin :biggrin:" data-shortname=":biggrin:" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Izso, post: 1063844996, member: 2429"] I posted this sometime ago. [url]http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/features/384644-simplified-guide-to-engine-oils.html[/url] Engine oil has several factors, the base oil, the additives and the detergents. The better the base oil the better the oil is and the more expensive it is. Ester based being the best (group 5 usually). The additives are things like friction modifiers, octane boosters and other secret recipes. Detergents are those that clean the internals of your engine bay. Cleaning out sludge, varnish and whatever. Getting a fully synthetic doesn't necessarily mean it'll last 20k km, but it does mean it'll last longer than semi's and minerals. And fully syn won't leave deposits like mineral oils does. A good fully syn like the 5W40 from Honda is pretty good for constant high revving engines and doesn't break down as easily say compared to Pennzoil's 5W30 fully syn. Good detergent fully syns like Royal Purple didn't even last 8000km for me. Engine ended up really rough and FC was bad after 7000km++ but it cleared out so much sludge I ended up discovering some broken oil seals which were clogged by the sludge. Dirty oil indicates the detergents is doing its job. Clean oil after say 8000km I'd be suspicious of the oil quality. The only real way to find out how good or bad an oil is, is to use a UOA test kit and send the test kit results for analysis. But let's be honest - how many people will do that? So in the end it's always about word of mouth or butt tests. If you have a look at my article on the camshaft, you'll see that my cylinder head is super clean, no yellowish varnish anywhere and everything is still silver in colour. Nice... and... clean. 5.5k RPM revving isn't really that high unless you're talking about 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, then you're a heavy footer! :biggrin: [/QUOTE]
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