Carburetor Section

@dawnryder

Just want to know if the information I gave you have solved your problem. Hope it did.

yes it help a bit. done my problem with that 3 wires. I've connect it directly to similar wires i found from bundles of wires from the computer box. and now, no more exposed wire. But the engine is still have the same symptoms.
 
I think you need to send your ECM for diagnostic test. To confirm if it's ECM working. They must also check if sensors and TPS working normally. They also must confirm wiring connection of O2 sensors, Coolant Sensor, Fuel solenoid drivers was correct. Specially the 3 wire TPS or Throttle Position Sensor. It must be wired w/ the same color or wire stripe.

You must also check the vacuum lines if properly connected.
 
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I think you need to send your ECM for diagnostic test. To confirm if it's ECM working. They must also check if sensors and TPS working normally. They also must confirm wiring connection of O2 sensors, Coolant Sensor, Fuel solenoid drivers was correct. Specially the 3 wire TPS or Throttle Position Sensor. It must be wired w/ the same color or wire stripe.

You must also check the vacuum lines if properly connected.

I've settled the problem already.. Its the idle limiter that need to be adjusted. Once adjusted, my engine is ok already.
 
Hi sifu2, newbie here. Just asking some questions is there any sifus around posted on how to tune a kancil carb? if yes please show. =) my fc is really bad.
 
kancil carb?

---------- Post added at 05:50 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 05:43 PM ----------

first of all, if u are using 91 carb on 4g15 then u gonna get headaches, as 91 carb has sensors, no doubt it has twin venturis but it will be major headache if its not connected to wiring.
 
ello i'm driving kancil 660 (A) & wit out air-cond, it's a replacement half cut EF engine from Japan, my problem is this, cold start no problem but idle is @1800-2000 RPM, after warm up maintain @ 1800, shift in gear drops to 1200, @ trafic light idling free gear after speed @ 100kmh still 1800 but... if i were to let go of pedal & let the car stroll own its own for a few minutes the rpm is @ 1000 & after fully stop free gear idle @ 800 only & the dash board starts to shake but not shaking if @ 1800, try to tune 2 make it max idle @ 1400 by turning the carb idle screw (if facing front of car, located under the stock air filter facing dashboard can turn using hands) but it could not tolerate at all it's either @ 1800 or 1200 oso. The question is, wether i do it correctly @ sumthing fishy bout the carb edi. So sifu's ur help are much much appreciated & i am new to this DIY car maintaining, modding & been driving only for 7 years.:banghead:
 
hi sifu I bought a used beat up lmss which got some problems that I hope sifus here can advise me.

Anyone knows why my car is hard to start after running, I mean its not hard to start when cold but after running hot then stop then hard to start. I need to step full throttle then only can start and ya when stop the engine still runs about a second. Any advise is welcomed.
 
hi sifu I bought a used beat up lmss which got some problems that I hope sifus here can advise me.

Anyone knows why my car is hard to start after running, I mean its not hard to start when cold but after running hot then stop then hard to start. I need to step full throttle then only can start and ya when stop the engine still runs about a second. Any advise is welcomed.

Check color spark plug gap insulator was too white. Adjust carburator for slight richer fuel. Color of spark plug must light brown.
 
yo mr, fastrader,, thats a hell of a explanation. well bro i need some help to tune my ga16ds carby turbo soon after engine transplant in my b11. so far i bought rising rate fuel regulator, oil cooler, external fuel pump(used one), ct9 turbo(used from 4efte), intercooler(custom), ngk 10.2 plug cables, ngk iridium plug and still need so more stuff. im going to blow trough with weber 32/36 dgav. im going to use a trotle body to prevent the boost from leaks the carby. the trotle body will be placed before the carb and link the carb so when ever the carb butterfly closed the trotlebody will also close and not allowed boost to pressure the carb float and seals. now the problem im facing is no metal gasket for ga16 in market and the cylinder head difficult to oversize(port) exzos ventures(too small and wall thickness very thin)
if some one got idea please share with me,i will be glad for it.
 
Sorry to revive an old thread.
I need some help in sourcing a Toyota 4AF card (1.6 Manual). My current one is dead and gone and the car is siting idle.
Any help is appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 

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