Better air fuel ratio for torque?

tailgatepro

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Saw some of the website recommend for A/F

13.5:1 , Good for Torque ( 0-100 km/h)
12:5:1 , Good for HP ( top speed)
11.5:1 , Good for Torque ( 0-100 km/h)


I would wonder 13.5 is better or 11.5 is better for torque?
What i know that if my car 11.2 or more fuel (10.5:1) my car will slow down.
Which is better for torque? ( Pls regret the idea of engine will blow if less fuel)
 
if ur a/f too rich u will lose power n slowly engine respond , but it make ur engine run cooler n protection

if a/f is run too lean u will lose power also n engine will b come hot

so...set ur a/f 13.5-13.0 at low rpm (1k-3k rpm) n go more rich a/f 12.5-12.0 at hi rpm (4k-6k rpm)
low end get litter lean a/f can help gain better torque n respond, hi end get litter rich can help engine make maximun HP n run with more cooler

however go to dyno tune is better !!! u can c the result in dyno
 
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if ur a/f too rich u will lose power n slowly engine respond , but it make ur engine run cooler n protection

if a/f is run too lean u will lose power also n engine will b come hot

so...set ur a/f 13.5-13.0 at low rpm (1k-3k rpm) n go more rich a/f 12.5-12.0 at hi rpm (4k-6k rpm)
low end get litter lean a/f can help gain better torque n respond, hi end get litter rich can help engine make maximun HP n run with more cooler

however go to dyno tune is better !!! u can c the result in dyno

A/F too rich doesn't really give much protection on engine,
rich combustion=incomplete combustion=access fuel=carbon=damage plugs and clog exhaust in time.

A/F too lean makes engine feel responsive. But certainly damage the engine due to premature detonation.

Saw some of the website recommend for A/F

13.5:1 , Good for Torque ( 0-100 km/h)
12:5:1 , Good for HP ( top speed)
11.5:1 , Good for Torque ( 0-100 km/h)


I would wonder 13.5 is better or 11.5 is better for torque?
What i know that if my car 11.2 or more fuel (10.5:1) my car will slow down.
Which is better for torque? ( Pls regret the idea of engine will blow if less fuel)

I think what A/F is highly depended on what engine u are driving. NA, turbocharged, supercharged etc. Don't expect ppl to know what engine u are driving.

An NA can be tuned around 13.0 on full load.
A turbocharged engine should be tuned to around 12-13 on full load boosting at around 1 bar.
A turbocharged engine should be tuned to around 11-12 on full load boosting at around 1-1.5bar.

The A/F for tunning using wideband also very much depended on where u mount ur wideband o2 sensor. If u mount it directly before the nenas where no outside air interference can occur, u can target a leaner than putting it at the exhaust outlet...

Please give more information before u seek for advise.
 
A/F too rich doesn't really give much protection on engine,
rich combustion=incomplete combustion=access fuel=carbon=damage plugs and clog exhaust in time.

A/F too lean makes engine feel responsive. But certainly damage the engine due to premature detonation.



I think what A/F is highly depended on what engine u are driving. NA, turbocharged, supercharged etc. Don't expect ppl to know what engine u are driving.

An NA can be tuned around 13.0 on full load.
A turbocharged engine should be tuned to around 12-13 on full load boosting at around 1 bar.
A turbocharged engine should be tuned to around 11-12 on full load boosting at around 1-1.5bar.

The A/F for tunning using wideband also very much depended on where u mount ur wideband o2 sensor. If u mount it directly before the nenas where no outside air interference can occur, u can target a leaner than putting it at the exhaust outlet...

Please give more information before u seek for advise.

if too rich fuel only will get back fire at exhaust muffler and waste fuel,it never harm your engine,if fuel too lean fuel 100% will blow your engine,the engine internal will go out from your exhaust muffler,if turbo engine run 12.1 a/f ratio use normal station fuel 97 octane mean is danger level already,if u using vp racing q16 120 octane maybe can run 12-13 a/f ratio!!!
 
yes speed2horizon bro,

i agree that A/F ratio that is too rich will also cause problem..to add on to it..

Over-rich A/F ratio will cause leftover fuel to sip down (certain cases) and get mixed with the engine oil causing the mixture to be acidic and highly corrosive..

will be bad for the engine on the long run..
 
if too rich fuel only will get back fire at exhaust muffler and waste fuel,it never harm your engine,if fuel too lean fuel 100% will blow your engine,the engine internal will go out from your exhaust muffler,if turbo engine run 12.1 a/f ratio use normal station fuel 97 octane mean is danger level already,if u using vp racing q16 120 octane maybe can run 12-13 a/f ratio!!!

Fuel TOO RICH confirm damage the plugs la.... Carbon deposit is an isolator... Later on, the carbon stack will prevent spark ignition.

I've been boosting 1bar with 12:1 AFR for over a year on RON 97. Wideband mounted on downpipe. Now upgraded to GT2560R.

Need retunning.

---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:34 PM ----------

yes speed2horizon bro,

i agree that A/F ratio that is too rich will also cause problem..to add on to it..

Over-rich A/F ratio will cause leftover fuel to sip down (certain cases) and get mixed with the engine oil causing the mixture to be acidic and highly corrosive..

will be bad for the engine on the long run..

Oh yeah bro... the carbon deposit will slip through the rings and through the hole on the pistons to the oil.

If ppl dun believe, try use 4 liter engine oil, tune car to run rich 7 rich. After 3000km, do an oil change. Then tune at something lesser than stoichiometric combustion, do another oil change at 3000km run. Then compare...
 
Fuel TOO RICH confirm damage the plugs la.... Carbon deposit is an isolator... Later on, the carbon stack will prevent spark ignition.

I've been boosting 1bar with 12:1 AFR for over a year on RON 97. Wideband mounted on downpipe. Now upgraded to GT2560R.

Need retunning.

---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:34 PM ----------



Oh yeah bro... the carbon deposit will slip through the rings and through the hole on the pistons to the oil.

If ppl dun believe, try use 4 liter engine oil, tune car to run rich 7 rich. After 3000km, do an oil change. Then tune at something lesser than stoichiometric combustion, do another oil change at 3000km run. Then compare...

where got people run a/f 7.0 no one will stupid like that,engine piston and plug dirty not a problem,if turbo engine boost 1.5 bar or 2 bar,need run a/f 10.0 at hi rpm and full boost time,also better than piston break or fly out from engine~if run lean fuel....
 
yes speed2horizon bro,

i agree that A/F ratio that is too rich will also cause problem..to add on to it..

Over-rich A/F ratio will cause leftover fuel to sip down (certain cases) and get mixed with the engine oil causing the mixture to be acidic and highly corrosive..

will be bad for the engine on the long run..

where got people run a/f 7.0 no one will stupid like that,engine piston and plug dirty not a problem,if turbo engine boost 1.5 bar or 2 bar,need run a/f 10.0 at hi rpm and full boost time,also better than piston break or fly out from engine~if run lean fuel....

I said RICH 7 RICH... Understand RICH 7 RICH mou..?

>. We don;t even know what engine he's driving...
 
from my point of view, there's no point discussing this, like wat speed2horizon said bro, best is to get a wideband, go dyno, and tune, a/f varies and it depends on the rpm range versus boost/ airflow, just cant simply say wat air fuel is the best. i suggest to get it tune and do trial and error on which which rpm and airflow suites best a/f ratio, trust me, dyno machine and wideband are more accurate then we here typing, happy tuning :biggrin: :driver:
 
from my point of view, there's no point discussing this, like wat speed2horizon said bro, best is to get a wideband, go dyno, and tune, a/f varies and it depends on the rpm range versus boost/ airflow, just cant simply say wat air fuel is the best. i suggest to get it tune and do trial and error on which which rpm and airflow suites best a/f ratio, trust me, dyno machine and wideband are more accurate then we here typing, happy tuning :biggrin: :driver:


1st thing i am practical fella,i learn engine hardware from 9 years ago,not a typing man or talk cock fella,also blow 15 engine cause test maximum,already know what a/f blow engine point,octane is very important for engine,always 2am-5am follow my ex master go hi way on the road tune at subang 2 they,if this is normal thread is never mind,this thing if wrong will harm people engine,i never allow let this shit thing being!!!
 
hello guys, yesterday i just remove my revcut and increased my rev limit from 7000rpm to 8800rpm. since i using highcam so the power comes around 5000-8500. but the thing is my ecu-rechipper have richen my a/f mixture. when rev all the way to 8800rpm, during 5000-7500 feels like lacking of fuel or something.

what could be the problem ? (dont have F/R or piggyback yet)
 
hello guys, yesterday i just remove my revcut and increased my rev limit from 7000rpm to 8800rpm. since i using highcam so the power comes around 5000-8500. but the thing is my ecu-rechipper have richen my a/f mixture. when rev all the way to 8800rpm, during 5000-7500 feels like lacking of fuel or something.

what could be the problem ? (dont have F/R or piggyback yet)

Richen A/F mixture..?
Not enough fuel...? Dun understand. Please explain.
 
hello guys, yesterday i just remove my revcut and increased my rev limit from 7000rpm to 8800rpm. since i using highcam so the power comes around 5000-8500. but the thing is my ecu-rechipper have richen my a/f mixture. when rev all the way to 8800rpm, during 5000-7500 feels like lacking of fuel or something.

what could be the problem ? (dont have F/R or piggyback yet)

can let me know u using what kind engine and cam degree,got fuel regulator and race fuel pump?if got will become more easy,u can go dyno machine or on the road tune by wide band adjust your fuel regulator,this not best way but better than don have,no worry got wide band very easy let u know about a/f ratio,if full pedal at hi rpm is a/f 10.1 mean is too rich if is na engine,if running 13-14 a/f ratio at hi rpm is too lean if na engine also lean,full pedal hi rpm 11.1 is safety run ron 97 fuel,is turbo car hi boost run 97 ron must 10.1 at hi rpm...
 
1st thing i am practical fella,i learn engine hardware from 9 years ago,not a typing man or talk cock fella,also blow 15 engine cause test maximum,already know what a/f blow engine point,octane is very important for engine,always 2am-5am follow my ex master go hi way on the road tune at subang 2 they,if this is normal thread is never mind,this thing if wrong will harm people engine,i never allow let this shit thing being!!!

im not referring to u la bro, and man why have to be so rude, be a gentleman abit la bro
 
im not referring to u la bro, and man why have to be so rude, be a gentleman abit la bro

i don understand what your mean?i only talk the true,if people dislike me i also cant do nothing,at least i never lie people and teach wrong thing to anyone,people how to think me is not my problem,i cannot control all people mind,what ever talk the true better than talk cock fella,welcome to share your any exp and if is usefull,i also want know your level untill where.....
 
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Please give more information before u seek for advise.

WOW, so many ppl give good comment here.

honda Fit with TD04 turbo at max 0.6 bar only.
Not for racing and normal driving N/W highway.

My tunner set A/F 11.5, after I installed AEM A/F gauge,
I do myself some adjusting 12.5 for 5000 RPM and above because when my car reached 170 km/h,
my car cannot go faster, but if i release some fuel, instead slow down, it go up to 190 km/h, that why i know 12.5 give better power.

But I just want to know 11.5 or 13.5 which is better only. HEHEHEHE.
I had RSM and i clocked 0-100 km/h, both are abt the same timing as 11.5
clocked abit more faster in some test run, but average is abt the same.
However, I had felt that at 11.5 ,the turbo sound more powerful only.

Currently i had retune myself from 11.5 to 13.5 at 3000 RPM.

By the way, is it comment that the A/F ratio gauge always jumping? Is it very hard to see current A/F ratio.
 
my experience, when i was using evo 6 engine, my a/f ratio on dyno was 13.1 till 12.7 till redline, got better fuel pump, better fuel regulator, boosted 1 bar with a/f ratio 11.8, car feel much more torque, besides, lower a/f ratio keeps the engine cooler bro, so i suggest do not run 13.5 once ur on boost...
 
i also found out where you mount the sensor also will give differant reading. so the reading that chris mentioned is based on sensor mounted at tail pipe ? or somewhere near downpipe?

err... my level goes no where. still learning... i ran 11.8afr wid conservative timing at 1.2bar .. the sensor mounted under the car near the flexible nenas.
 


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