AFR for 20V on piggyback or standalone

Just notice the picture there. Mind to share the internal recipe for 154bhp?

Thank you in advance
 
154 hp at the wheel on what dyno? Well i guess that engine have at least 175 hp at crank.
Cams,bigger piston,extractor,ECU tune,engine mechanicals blueprinting...should be about 160hp on wheel.

The thing i really2 want to try on 4ag is...Dry sump! Really curious how much Hp increase with that system,plus it looks cool.But dry sump is really expensive.
 
done dyno at William Trail, still not satisfy with the power output, will retry the tuning to hit above 160 on wheel...
 
done dyno at William Trail, still not satisfy with the power output, will retry the tuning to hit above 160 on wheel...

Have you blueprint and balance the internals,if not then should try,u feel much smoother and response,also some power increase.

For more power,need to feed more air(change longer duration cams),bigger bore,higher rev cut (9000rpm is more than enough for street) and air fuel ratio tune/ignition timing tune..
 
Have you blueprint and balance the internals,if not then should try,u feel much smoother and response,also some power increase.

For more power,need to feed more air(change longer duration cams),bigger bore,higher rev cut (9000rpm is more than enough for street) and air fuel ratio tune/ignition timing tune..

Let say, 9k is best for street. What duration aftermarket cam is suitable for an optimize peak till 9000rpm?
 
dont dare to set the limit to 9k, currently only set the limit to 8.2k...
here are some internal parts, 288cam, 82mm forged piston, engine full balance...cam setting powerband start from 5krpm, will keep trying on AFR tuning...
 
Ahaa... there you go. So no doubt your FC is going up like crazy due to plenty of "toyols" under the hood... hehe
Anyways, I'll suggest you get an EGT to check as too high EGT could result in damaged valves. I've read somewhere that 20V usually have exhaust valves damaged if the EGT is too high (due to lean conditions). Perhaps this is why the stock ECU is adding more fuel during WOT at high RPMs to keep the engine & EGT cool.

On another note, Ben can you try to dyno run at Millennium Motorsports Sunway. They are running Dyno Dynamics, which can actually put load on the engine which will reflect a more realistic WHP. FYI, Millennium only charges RM60 for dyno runs (3 runs).
 
how many throttle position did you guys set for the vvt to trigger?
 
Let say, 9k is best for street. What duration aftermarket cam is suitable for an optimize peak till 9000rpm?

288 above...we see,Stock BT cam around 250 mark,already peak power near to 7k rpm...i would reckon with 288 it will drag peak power to 7.5k+ rpm region.

Cam timing plays a role too,in particular intake close and exhaust open point

---------- Post added at 08:26 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:25 AM ----------

the green le 20v laaa...not the my sr20 nissan...hehehe..but now le with with new setup, fuel set to very rich coz race in very hot afternoon...this setup very sedap during staging...hehehe

running haltech? powerful
 
288 above...we see,Stock BT cam around 250 mark,already peak power near to 7k rpm...i would reckon with 288 it will drag peak power to 7.5k+ rpm region.
Cam timing plays a role too,in particular intake close and exhaust open point

Is it true, that if our rev limit <9K , our block still can take it without doing balancing? Objective here is to get aftermarket items for the Head without touching the block yet (indirectly, save cost)
 
Is it true, that if our rev limit quote]

I think the stock bottom is quite ok,everybody knows that Toyota block it is almost bullet proof..Be it 4AG,1J,2J...so i guess,just rev it to 9k without balance,cause toyota already balance in factory to certain tolerance(maybe not as tight as a race engine cause mass production).

If it doesnt broke,dont fix...but i suggest change the bearings to a better one.I would be more worried bout the valvetrain at such engine speed.
 
better change to racing engine bearing...if >9k target, better get strong internal part..
 
What is valvetrain?

Cam,valve lifter+shims,valve spring retainer,valve springs,and the valve itself..

If things were to fails first,i think its the valvetrain and con-rod bearing...saw one damaged BT engine at a shop,the valve broke and smash the piston until got huge hole.Guess it he was boucing on the rev limiter too long
 
yaa...this happen to my engine before rebuild to 288 cam, one valve broken and hitting the piston...
 
pehhhh 288 cam...u guy trully racer laaa...tringin tgk ur car n chit chat with u...
 


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