About high cams

[AhLun]

I notice that many ppl using Jun or Toda cams. Why not much ppl using Brian Crower?? I found out that Brian Crower is the cheapest around those 2 brands. Any shifu can give advise becos going to upgrade to high cam.

 

[chaiwl]

how about the performance? did u survey the performance of these cam?

 

[AhLun]

how about the performance? did u survey the performance of these cam?

Performance i dont know. Never try before those high cams. Still a beginner. But spec for Toda C2 and Briancrower stage3 only slightly different.

 

[chaiwl]

surf for the review from the user of the cam. it can help u to decide which to choose 1.

 

[coolmankyl]

i suggest use skunk2 cam is good!

 

[coolmankyl]

skunk 2 is good

 

[shiroitenshi]

Most Japanese spec cams give normal idle when used. Even the higher levels like Toda C2 and Jun 3 can give idle like a stock car.

USDM cams like Skunk2, if level 1-2 give standard idle, if level 3 or more usually will not give smooth idle or good low end power for daily driving. Even skunk2 admits this on their website. Brian Crower also puts that information on their website.

Depends on what you want, you may want a race oriented cam, or a performance oriented cam. Most japanese cams are meant for street, so they're usually a bit milder than USDM cams.

There's no one good cam. Depends on setup and what you expect out of it. If stock standard, keep it as it is. The standard cams work quite well until you start increasing compression past 10.5-11.

I've never driven a car with a USDM cam, so I can't say performance wise if they're indeed better than Japanese cams. Seems like some SuperSixteen racers are using them succesfully, so that's at least one testament to their performance..

 

[AhLun]

Most Japanese spec cams give normal idle when used. Even the higher levels like Toda C2 and Jun 3 can give idle like a stock car.

USDM cams like Skunk2, if level 1-2 give standard idle, if level 3 or more usually will not give smooth idle or good low end power for daily driving. Even skunk2 admits this on their website. Brian Crower also puts that information on their website.

Depends on what you want, you may want a race oriented cam, or a performance oriented cam. Most japanese cams are meant for street, so they're usually a bit milder than USDM cams.

There's no one good cam. Depends on setup and what you expect out of it. If stock standard, keep it as it is. The standard cams work quite well until you start increasing compression past 10.5-11.

I've never driven a car with a USDM cam, so I can't say performance wise if they're indeed better than Japanese cams. Seems like some SuperSixteen racers are using them succesfully, so that's at least one testament to their performance..

Wow.. thats great. Thanks.

 

[eddie_vtec]

if you want change to high cam,make sure increase ur compression first...

 

[dc_vtec]

tht true king eddie..

 

[coolmankyl]

may i know who is using ek and eg?

 

[D-IV]

if you want change to high cam,make sure increase ur compression first...

Don't forget the valve train components. It'll say its compatible with factory valvetrain but I would 100% recommend changing to aftermarket valve springs and retainers coz we VTEC people tend to love going over the redline...

EDITED:
Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 1 < Toda C's in terms of top end
Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 1 > Toda C's slightly in terms of midrange

There was a dyno comparison back to back on these cams on a 1.9 liter motor in honda-tech. But they love the Toda C's performance compared to skunk2.

Question is: Which one is cheaper?

 

[AhLun]

Don't forget the valve train components. It'll say its compatible with factory valvetrain but I would 100% recommend changing to aftermarket valve springs and retainers coz we VTEC people tend to love going over the redline...

Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 2 < Toda C's in terms of top end
Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 2 > Toda C's slightly in terms of midrange

There was a dyno comparison back to back on these cams on a 1.9 liter motor in honda-tech. But they love the Toda C's performance compared to skunk2.

Question is: Which one is cheaper?

Which one cheaper??

 

[D-IV]

I'm not sure myself. If i were in Semenanjung, i could give you that answer. Maybe other members can chime in on pricing.

 

[coolmankyl]

well, i'm using skunk2 pro stage 3 series. as my experience, i feel the cam is higher than jun3. the cam can be adjust up to 31x degree.. and its smoother. maybe u guy can try tht. but must be very high compression only can push the cam run... :proud:

 

[Vagabond]

price comparitively , it seems that Skunk2 is slightly cheaper .......... but not by much!!!

 

[shiroitenshi]

I think BC cams are cheaper, then again, cam prices are related to what materials and how it's made, there's chilled cast cores, then there's billet blanks with heat treatment, then there' the copper coated something (i forget) and a few more. I only remember the common one, which is chilled cast cores. That's the most common one right now I think. Toda doesn't mention how theirs are made, so I don't know.

Toda C2 is abt. 310 advertised, 260+ actual duration. So they're not really as extreme as you may think. The high advertised duration points to the fact that they have low velocity angled ramps on the lobes, which means they're friendlier on STOCK timing belts, unlike racing cams that really requires REINFORCED versions. The faster the valves rise to peak lift, the more stress on the belt, so TODA did the obvious thing.. open it WAY EARLIER.

Skunk 2 mostly specifies actual duration. I'm not sure if they still use advertised durations for their cams or not. At least, they don't in their last catalogue, I'm not sure.. But I'd love to see anyone who can run their car with a 315 actual duration cam without passing the 10K rpm mark.

I think most manufacturers from US notes in their cam specs how they're made, and they willingly admit they're less stronger than the stock versions (when the stock version is nearly 10 years old, and still can be sold as 2nd hand, that's truly a testament to their strength, ha ha.

There's also the issue of the profiles of the low and high cam, if anyone want to get technical. If you have average compression, using super high cam will cause a lumpy idle, good for racing and 'stylo', not really good for low end daily driving and fuel consumption.

Kind of depends on how 'stylo' you want to go, and how much 'racing' you do..

 

[pardypeople]

What you guys think about this cams? Hardly seen its application here >>​

Buddy Club Racing Spec V B-Series DOHC VTEC Camshafts
Specifications: intake 312 duration, 12.8 mm lift, exhaust 306 duration, 11.8 mm lift.​

​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]U[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]tilizing advance Japanese auto manufacture profile modeling Buddy Club has developed a versatile cam shaft that produces feasible horsepower, smooth idling and better throttle response over OEM through out the power band.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Buddy Club Spec V Camshafts are made with brand new blank chilled cast cores to ensure strength and flexibility to take advantage of our patent pending Lobe Forming Technology to truly optimize the primary and VTEC cam lobes. The Spec III Plus camshafts were designed to accommodate a wide range of compression ratios from 10.0:1 to 13+. These cams are our most popular camshafts to date! They are designed to provde a smooth and constant power especially in the low and mid range areas and throughout the rest of the power band. These are ideal street camshafts for anyone who wanst some extra power to their engines.[/SIZE][/FONT]

• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Ideal for street use[/SIZE][/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Direct Bolt-On[/SIZE][/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Patent pending lob e forming technology for low to midrange torque[/SIZE][/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Provides smooth constant power throughout the power [/SIZE][/FONT]

 

[dcloo]

What you guys think about this cams? Hardly seen its application here >>​

Buddy Club Racing Spec V B-Series DOHC VTEC Camshafts
Specifications: intake 312 duration, 12.8 mm lift, exhaust 306 duration, 11.8 mm lift.​

​

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]U[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]tilizing advance Japanese auto manufacture profile modeling Buddy Club has developed a versatile cam shaft that produces feasible horsepower, smooth idling and better throttle response over OEM through out the power band.[/FONT][/FONT]

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Buddy Club Spec V Camshafts are made with brand new blank chilled cast cores to ensure strength and flexibility to take advantage of our patent pending Lobe Forming Technology to truly optimize the primary and VTEC cam lobes. The Spec III Plus camshafts were designed to accommodate a wide range of compression ratios from 10.0:1 to 13+. These cams are our most popular camshafts to date! They are designed to provde a smooth and constant power especially in the low and mid range areas and throughout the rest of the power band. These are ideal street camshafts for anyone who wanst some extra power to their engines.[/SIZE][/FONT]

• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Ideal for street use[/SIZE][/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Direct Bolt-On[/SIZE][/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Patent pending lob e forming technology for low to midrange torque[/SIZE][/FONT]
• [FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][SIZE=-1]Provides smooth constant power throughout the power [/SIZE][/FONT]

Buddy Club Spec 4 has been use by last year sepang drag battle champion which on white EG
this which telling by owner where skunk 2 pro 3 will have better high end after pass 7k-9.5KRPM
from low to mid could tell its was same only 1-2 WHP in certain RPM but after 7k RPM some was different but how far i could not tell cause i not compare to the dyno graph

If Buddy Club spec V VS skunk2 Pro 3 this still a very good question:hmmmm:

 

[dcloo]

Don't forget the valve train components. It'll say its compatible with factory valvetrain but I would 100% recommend changing to aftermarket valve springs and retainers coz we VTEC people tend to love going over the redline...

EDITED:
Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 1 < Toda C's in terms of top end
Skunk2 Pro Series Stage 1 > Toda C's slightly in terms of midrange

There was a dyno comparison back to back on these cams on a 1.9 liter motor in honda-tech. But they love the Toda C's performance compared to skunk2.

Question is: Which one is cheaper?

Skunk2 pro 2+spring+retainer RM 4400
Skunk2 pro 3+spring+retainer RM 4500
Toda C or C2+spring RM 4000