need help for engine mods in a 4g13p proton saga engine

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im using a 1.3 carb, preferable to usie 1.8 inch of pipe.. is there any size for intake manifold? wat about bullet? use the "kain perah" or just like a normal bullet.. and i use its orriginal route of piping.. eheheee.. dont giv trouble wif the authorities..

ya, now i noe wats coil over.. ahahaaa.. so noob..

Size ar?... not that I know of. Haha exhaust tuning another black art in M'sia, my friends 4g91 is only using 1.7" piping seems ngam, your 1.8" not too big ar? :hmmmm: Bullet. Hmm I also dunno whats the diff using what gains or loses what. If I start changing I update ZTH members lo... haha :biggrin:

Im also using original route of the piping :proud:
 
weber 32/36 dgv???... damn i miss those weber... progressive carbs.. when 2nd barrel open like "buka vtec"... hahahaha...


intake manifold use back oem one can adi... make sure ur carburetor is properly tuned... stoich AF all across the rpm...

u mishh the 32/36? wat if we exchange.. i used your efi n u used my weber.. :biggrin: heheheeeeeee..
ya, once i drive the sound like v tec.. once spectator c, they say supercharger.. and wat i did is just i smile.. eheheeee..

bout the intake, i use 4 2 1, coz ori is 4 1.. heheeee.. u recomend to use the 4 1 oem?

btw, can u explain to me bout the stoich af all accross the rpm? dont understand bout that.. and i had tune it.. later ill try to seek for nick to tune it for me.. eheheheeee..

bro, u celebrate raya?

---------- Post added at 11:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------

Size ar?... not that I know of. Haha exhaust tuning another black art in M'sia, my friends 4g91 is only using 1.7" piping seems ngam, your 1.8" not too big ar? :hmmmm: Bullet. Hmm I also dunno whats the diff using what gains or loses what. If I start changing I update ZTH members lo... haha :biggrin:

Im also using original route of the piping :proud:

sorry, i dont know bout that.. bro, wat do u mean bout black art malaysia? ehehee.. curious to know..:adore:
 
u mishh the 32/36? wat if we exchange.. i used your efi n u used my weber.. :biggrin: heheheeeeeee..
ya, once i drive the sound like v tec.. once spectator c, they say supercharger.. and wat i did is just i smile.. eheheeee..

bout the intake, i use 4 2 1, coz ori is 4 1.. heheeee.. u recomend to use the 4 1 oem?

btw, can u explain to me bout the stoich af all accross the rpm? dont understand bout that.. and i had tune it.. later ill try to seek for nick to tune it for me.. eheheheeee..

bro, u celebrate raya?

---------- Post added at 11:19 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 11:18 PM ----------



sorry, i dont know bout that.. bro, wat do u mean bout black art malaysia? ehehee.. curious to know..:adore:

haha... i sold my DGV few years back adi before converting to efi... dun wanna look back la... but then, it was fun using it... gained quite alot of power jz from the weber itself... fine tuning was a trouble as there isnt many good tuners around... i need something more universal which any tuner would be able to do....

oem intake manifold is 1-2-4 laa... but all vr short and direct runners laa.... i recommend use back oem one can adi... wan yield more horsepower, get ur cylinder head port and polished done properly...

as for AFR... generally there are 3 condition... rich (too much fuel), lean (too less fuel) or stoich (ngam ngam correct ratio)... to know whether ur engine running what AFR, u need wideband o2 sensor... or a simply dyno run with AF reading will tell u ur AF graph with relation to the power n torque output of ur engine....

stoich AF is around 14.7:1... which means 14.7 pounds of air mix 1 pound of fuel...
lean AF means higher value... 14.7 above....
rich AF means lower value... 14.7 below....

if ur car run about 13.5:1 is good enough... need to be rich a little to prevent detonation at higher rpm....

raya??.. i celebrate HOLIDAY only... who cares siapa punya raya... lolz...
 
haha... i sold my DGV few years back adi before converting to efi... dun wanna look back la... but then, it was fun using it... gained quite alot of power jz from the weber itself... fine tuning was a trouble as there isnt many good tuners around... i need something more universal which any tuner would be able to do....

oem intake manifold is 1-2-4 laa... but all vr short and direct runners laa.... i recommend use back oem one can adi... wan yield more horsepower, get ur cylinder head port and polished done properly...

as for AFR... generally there are 3 condition... rich (too much fuel), lean (too less fuel) or stoich (ngam ngam correct ratio)... to know whether ur engine running what AFR, u need wideband o2 sensor... or a simply dyno run with AF reading will tell u ur AF graph with relation to the power n torque output of ur engine....

stoich AF is around 14.7:1... which means 14.7 pounds of air mix 1 pound of fuel...
lean AF means higher value... 14.7 above....
rich AF means lower value... 14.7 below....

if ur car run about 13.5:1 is good enough... need to be rich a little to prevent detonation at higher rpm....

raya??.. i celebrate HOLIDAY only... who cares siapa punya raya... lolz...

oraite.. nice info bro.. sure gona do it.. tankiu so much..:adore:
 
hi guyz... im new in zerotohundred...

need help from u sifu's out there... =)

i have modded me iswara hatchback abit already la as the following

4:2:1 extractor inclusive of bullet
Cheap open port Filter (red one)
S-flow Exhaust with 1.7" piping
Improve absorbers fronmt and back(springs are stock)
front 2 point bar
pivot raizin voltage stablizer
Semi- Overhaul my engine (change to new vavles) =)

i was thinking to change my carb to weber carb but it seems that it is hard to maintain around here... sigh... so been playing with stock since i bought the car. im a touge counterpart. not a dragster .. =X but still i come off corners abit slow... LOL... wat else do i need to get off corner faster?:driver:
 
hi guyz... im new in zerotohundred...

need help from u sifu's out there... =)

i have modded me iswara hatchback abit already la as the following

4:2:1 extractor inclusive of bullet
Cheap open port Filter (red one)
S-flow Exhaust with 1.7" piping
Improve absorbers fronmt and back(springs are stock)
front 2 point bar
pivot raizin voltage stablizer
Semi- Overhaul my engine (change to new vavles) =)

i was thinking to change my carb to weber carb but it seems that it is hard to maintain around here... sigh... so been playing with stock since i bought the car. im a touge counterpart. not a dragster .. =X but still i come off corners abit slow... LOL... wat else do i need to get off corner faster?:driver:

LSD bro, HAHA. Perhaps lowering springs if youre on a tight budget? :biggrin: Im also gonna try change my carb to a weber, but I dont own a proton heh. Are you using stock seats or buckets? :hmmmm:
 
hi guyz... im new in zerotohundred...

need help from u sifu's out there... =)

i have modded me iswara hatchback abit already la as the following

4:2:1 extractor inclusive of bullet
Cheap open port Filter (red one)
S-flow Exhaust with 1.7" piping
Improve absorbers fronmt and back(springs are stock)
front 2 point bar
pivot raizin voltage stablizer
Semi- Overhaul my engine (change to new vavles) =)

i was thinking to change my carb to weber carb but it seems that it is hard to maintain around here... sigh... so been playing with stock since i bought the car. im a touge counterpart. not a dragster .. =X but still i come off corners abit slow... LOL... wat else do i need to get off corner faster?:driver:

as a driver, in order to get off corners fast, i believed u can mantain yr rpm at a higher rate by doing the heel to toe. this will allow you maximize the power of yr car as compared to lower rpm.. ( you may have know about this tho) by mastering this technique of driving you can go come off corners real fast.

basically for touge, power doesnt really matter. handling matters most. so get yr dynamics right first. most importantly, get a good pair of hard front absorbers like GAB or TEIN. very important for cornering. then only sport springs. the rear absorbers are not so important. but remember that the front absorbers are very important. if its not hard enough, you are more likely to oversteer because when you are going through a corner at high speed, the force on the front absorber will push downwards, causing yr rear tyres to be very much lighter, and when u turn yr steering during that period at high speed, you will oversteer, thus causing u to lose control of yr car.

safety first. just my opinion. :)
 
as a driver, in order to get off corners fast, i believed u can mantain yr rpm at a higher rate by doing the heel to toe. this will allow you maximize the power of yr car as compared to lower rpm.. ( you may have know about this tho) by mastering this technique of driving you can go come off corners real fast.

basically for touge, power doesnt really matter. handling matters most. so get yr dynamics right first. most importantly, get a good pair of hard front absorbers like GAB or TEIN. very important for cornering. then only sport springs. the rear absorbers are not so important. but remember that the front absorbers are very important. if its not hard enough, you are more likely to oversteer because when you are going through a corner at high speed, the force on the front absorber will push downwards, causing yr rear tyres to be very much lighter, and when u turn yr steering during that period at high speed, you will oversteer, thus causing u to lose control of yr car.

safety first. just my opinion. :)

Totally agree on the heel & toe-ing. But why do you say the rear absorbers are not so important? :hmmmm: Lol if the rears are soft esp in the old saga from a left-right corner I think it can oversteer also haha :biggrin:
 
Totally agree on the heel & toe-ing. But why do you say the rear absorbers are not so important? :hmmmm: Lol if the rears are soft esp in the old saga from a left-right corner I think it can oversteer also haha :biggrin:

rear absorbers are important as well but not as important as the front because most of the impact on the absorbers are at the front when u corner at high speed. even with good absorbers u can oversteer, depending on how u take corners i believe haha.

well anyway, i always think the budget style first haha as we know a good pair of absorbers can cost up to 1.5K which is very much way out of most people's budget. forgive my inaccuracy :)
 
recommend you to go to powerzone.com.my.their specialist in proton car mod
 
hi guyz... im new in zerotohundred...

need help from u sifu's out there... =)

i have modded me iswara hatchback abit already la as the following

4:2:1 extractor inclusive of bullet
Cheap open port Filter (red one)
S-flow Exhaust with 1.7" piping
Improve absorbers fronmt and back(springs are stock)
front 2 point bar
pivot raizin voltage stablizer
Semi- Overhaul my engine (change to new vavles) =)

i was thinking to change my carb to weber carb but it seems that it is hard to maintain around here... sigh... so been playing with stock since i bought the car. im a touge counterpart. not a dragster .. =X but still i come off corners abit slow... LOL... wat else do i need to get off corner faster?:driver:

u need coilovers and more strut bars...
 
hi guyz... im new in zerotohundred...

need help from u sifu's out there... =)

i have modded me iswara hatchback abit already la as the following

4:2:1 extractor inclusive of bullet
Cheap open port Filter (red one)
S-flow Exhaust with 1.7" piping
Improve absorbers fronmt and back(springs are stock)
front 2 point bar
pivot raizin voltage stablizer
Semi- Overhaul my engine (change to new vavles) =)

i was thinking to change my carb to weber carb but it seems that it is hard to maintain around here... sigh... so been playing with stock since i bought the car. im a touge counterpart. not a dragster .. =X but still i come off corners abit slow... LOL... wat else do i need to get off corner faster?:driver:

A wider tires set perhaps. It will give u a better grip during the corner compared to the 175 stock. I recommend u to use Bridgestone RE001.
 
rear absorbers are important as well but not as important as the front because most of the impact on the absorbers are at the front when u corner at high speed. even with good absorbers u can oversteer, depending on how u take corners i believe haha.

well anyway, i always think the budget style first haha as we know a good pair of absorbers can cost up to 1.5K which is very much way out of most people's budget. forgive my inaccuracy :)

Mm yeah, like my wagon is running coilovers in the front, chopped springs + revalved absorbers in the rear, it handles good.

But, its not perfect. Quite weird lah the stroke front and rear, since im using shorter strokes in front it cant seem to absorb bumps as good as the rear over uneven surfaces BUT once the road is smooth the front is much stiffer :biggrin:

Just my 2 cents but I think balanced suspension is important too haha, not rojaked like mine... :driver:
 

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