How to convert ur stock tb into racing type tb

[speed2horizon]

Hi everyone...

Esspecially to Mitsubishi engine owner. Most of us have experience facing the idle problem when turning on the air cond. And alot of use converted to FICD(Fast Idle Control Device) to solve the bad idle problem when turn on the air cond. which is just a solenoid valve. Some are solved, some are still not solved.

Some are solved with FICD connected to the manifold and bleeder outlet of the rocker cover having hoses flying across the engine bay.

Here I'd like to share something with everyone.

KNOWING OUR THROTTLE BODY

Image above shows how our stock throttlebody looks like with the ISC(Idle Stepper Controller) removed.

Above shows some holes on the throttle body which helps in our idling with/without aircond.


SOME BASIC THEORY

Here is what happen when we turn on our air cond. The magnetic clutch of the compressor is activated and become a load to the crank pulley. In order to overcome the extra load, the ISC opens the valve and allow extra air enters the engine via intake manifold. Which is why, U'll notice the rpm goes up a little when the AC compressor kicks in...

After knowing the ports and function of the throttle body, here we go... Converting our stock TB into a racing TB.

Get the ISC mount removed completely from the TB. There are 5 screws(For Japanese model or Local DOHC n V6 Model) to be removed.

*due to the lock tight applied during the fabrication stage, u may need to open it with an impact screw driver.

After removing the water passage and the ISC mount, this is what U'll see.

Here is the drawing I did for the block off plate. The top one is to be fabricate if u are planning to place ur FICD somehere else.

The bottom drawing is what I have. The 2 extra holes is for the FICD as a replacement of ISC.

And here's the result fabricated plate. I used a 6mm because there's alot of wastage and extras at my office.

If you are doing what I did, the second drawing, U may opt for any of the following method.

-Weld 6mm stainless steel/steel hose
-Look for in-out 1/4' male hose adaptor with sockets
-Any other connection u may think off

And here is what I have... I have the second choice.

And finally, here I present

MY 60mm Racing TB, the RESULT OF 2 SKIPPED LUNCH.

Cheers...:proud::proud::proud::proud:

If anyone knows how to do it for other makes than Mitsubishi engine, Please share it...

 

[ek_elleh]

haha.. the nipples and welding look samer with mine..
but my adapter shape little different than your.. now only neeed to connect the in/out to FICD..

 

[speed2horizon]

haiz... should have gone for TIG welding... Slack skit la....

 

[ek_elleh]

i use flat metal..
n then make thread (tapping)
to fit the nipple..

 

[speed2horizon]

i use flat metal..
n then make thread (tapping)
to fit the nipple..

That's the problem, I don't have the tapping tool for ISO 1/4". And my steel plate is only 6mm. So, if screw habis, keluar dr blkg plak.... Hehe...

 

[ek_elleh]

yes..
for that nipple, need to use inch tapping..
i customed the mitsubishi 2.0 throttle body to my viva..
hahaha..

 

[speed2horizon]

yes..
for that nipple, need to use inch tapping..
i customed the mitsubishi 2.0 throttle body to my viva..
hahaha..

Good good... Share it. Share it.... So everyone can enjoy cheap way to improve performance.

 

[SkYwAlKeR]

with that, u dont use the throttle body ISC anymore rite??... so why still flow water into the throttle body??.. cannot jz block it out completely??...

 

[speed2horizon]

with that, u dont use the throttle body ISC anymore rite??... so why still flow water into the throttle body??.. cannot jz block it out completely??...

Hehe.. the 2 holes is for FICD. So, U don't need to have hoses flying all over ur place... Water is blocked off completely.

In this case, I replaced the ISC with a FICD for the idle adjustment.

 

[bluhapp2]

may i know how u block ur water hose? just tape it off ?

my isc showing signs of going out.

 

[speed2horizon]

may i know how u block ur water hose? just tape it off ?

my isc showing signs of going out.

See picture #4, open the 5 screws and get the whole water chamber removed. U may need an impact screw driver. Then download the drawing and send to engineering shop. If u don't
mind having hoses flying around ur engine bay, u can use the drawing on the top. Then connect FICD like conventional way. If u want to hide the FICD under the TB, then take the btm drawing. Then, weld any fitting as u desired. Like mine, I just weld 2 NPT 2/8" sockets and fits in 2 hose adapter. Then connect it to the FICD.

Make sure u don't remove the rubber gasket. In addition, u have to apply little ammount of silicon gasket paste.