Water temperature problem

[bladerunner]

Dude, your mechanic says NVM probably because the job of replacing water is a tedious one and emptying the radiator just won't do... i think the entire system uses about 10 to 15L of water.

Ya, special thanks to sunseeker, reintel and Dr.D. Just wanna make sure one thing before go for my next check up. I read from Skyline AUS forum, the senior said is good to use distilled water instead of tap water to prevent corrode the radiator; but last week I have been told by my mechanic, he said is nvm, how come.....

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Betul pun....

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

I don't know what pulley is it call(a A/C pulley?), it just place at bottom right hand side, below the steering pulley, just wanna make sure is this pulley will stop spinning for once a while?

To sunseeker, can u let me know your day and night water temperature when your car is running(about 100-130kmh), idle during traffic and what is the max temperature if idle for half hour? I hv try on this morning at my car porch, it take 70min to reach 107C(from cold start), it raise up very slow but I'm not sure when it will stop....is it normal?

Other question is, IF we idle our car for let say 2 hours, the temp will continue increase to warning zone? or will stay at certain temperature?

 

[gti[GSR]]

i hav da same issue, i reached more den 100c everytime stuck in jam or in a tunnel...!!! worst off, my air cond wud cut off when it reaches 2 hot. i jus dont understand. i replaced to sard thermo, n same issues.

let me noe wat other solutions u have...

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

No problem Bro, this Thursday I'll do few steps as sunseeker mention above. I'll ask them to pull off my radiator to inspect and flush again, check radiator hose, radiator fan, fan clutch, electrical fan and change thermostat 1st, let see what happen after done this few steps. If problem still exist, I'll go on water pump as well as change all belt at next month. The only thing I worry is leaking at internal, god bless me....

 

[Dr.D]

water pumpaybe half a day.. N1 one good enough even though abit pricey

 

[MrNismo]

The picture you show is the air conditioner compressor unit, the clutch will turn on/off momentarily, nothing much to worry about if it doesn't produce funny noise/smell and your air conditioner is working properly (ie cold)

Few things that might contribute to your problem apart from what was mentioned above:

1) Radiator too thick - Bigger doesn't always mean better as the thicker it is the more difficult it is for air to go through, and on top of that you don't have a fan shroud. Nissan clutch fan are excellent, but they only work well WITH a shroud. If your radiator core is thicker than 50mm, that would contribute towards temperature rise during idling/slow traffic.

2) Aftermarket pulley kit - Seems like you have it from the pics as the power steering pump pulley looks 'aftermarket blue'. Bigger water pump pulleys are great to reduce cavitation at higher rpms, but you will suffer from overheating during idling/slow traffic. For street driven car, the factory unit is the best.

3) Check if your fan is working, both the clutch fan and electric fan. I once have a busted fan relay and the electric fan stop working. As for clutch fan, turn off the engine after a drive and take note if the clutch fan stop spinning the moment you shut down or it keep spinning for another 10-15 seconds (which it shouldn't).

4) Factory thermostat don't usually cause problems, unless there's blockage which limits water/coolant flow.

5) An oil cooler will help, but only if you got the water temperature problems solved.

6) I wouldn't worry about air/fuel ratio if the car is not idling erratically. Little significance with your problems.

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

water pumpaybe half a day.. N1 one good enough even though abit pricey

Thanks for your input bro, N1 water pump is the one I'm looking to.

---------- Post added at 02:57 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:43 AM ----------

The picture you show is the air conditioner compressor unit, the clutch will turn on/off momentarily, nothing much to worry about if it doesn't produce funny noise/smell and your air conditioner is working properly (ie cold)

Few things that might contribute to your problem apart from what was mentioned above:

1) Radiator too thick - Bigger doesn't always mean better as the thicker it is the more difficult it is for air to go through, and on top of that you don't have a fan shroud. Nissan clutch fan are excellent, but they only work well WITH a shroud. If your radiator core is thicker than 50mm, that would contribute towards temperature rise during idling/slow traffic.

2) Aftermarket pulley kit - Seems like you have it from the pics as the power steering pump pulley looks 'aftermarket blue'. Bigger water pump pulleys are great to reduce cavitation at higher rpms, but you will suffer from overheating during idling/slow traffic. For street driven car, the factory unit is the best.

3) Check if your fan is working, both the clutch fan and electric fan. I once have a busted fan relay and the electric fan stop working. As for clutch fan, turn off the engine after a drive and take note if the clutch fan stop spinning the moment you shut down or it keep spinning for another 10-15 seconds (which it shouldn't).

4) Factory thermostat don't usually cause problems, unless there's blockage which limits water/coolant flow.

5) An oil cooler will help, but only if you got the water temperature problems solved.

6) I wouldn't worry about air/fuel ratio if the car is not idling erratically. Little significance with your problems.

Thanks bro for your kindly reply, your post will be a great lesson to me ^_^ and I believe to all the future freshly.

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

This morning went to service the radiator, take out and flush, realingment the radiator fin, check fan clutch, check thermostat. I hv been told by the mechanic, my fan clutch is still in good condition, thermostat too. The only possible of causing this happen is like mr.nismo said, the aftermarket radiator is quite thick, thus this make the stock radiator fan can't suck in more air while idle. Anyway, he suggest me not to change/add extra fan now since my radiator hv been realignment the fin and flushed, it should solve the problem.
And now, my water temperature maximum reach 97c at idling. Thanks god finally I can relax now. And thanks to all senior here to input your suggestion, it really improve my knowledge so much! ^_^

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

All sifu, I'm wondering N1 water pump, N1 oil pump and walbro 255L fuel pump can withstand the power of 450whp+-? Is required to change to oversize oil pan and baffle at this power stage??

 

[gobiz]

All sifu, I'm wondering N1 water pump, N1 oil pump and walbro 255L fuel pump can withstand the power of 450whp+-? Is required to change to oversize oil pan and baffle at this power stage??

Injectors? Tuning?

If setup, fuelling and mapping is correct, 600whp+ also can with that setup

But there has been so many horror stories about N1 oil pump bro, initially I thought it was just cheap replicas of the N1 pump, but lots of people broke genuine N1 oil pump it seems.

If I were you, I would either watch the revs very carefully (not go above 7800rpm) or change my oil pump.

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

My future target is 450whp and I hv been told is good to upgrade all the foundation 1st before u plan to increase your Hp, thus now I wondering is n1 water/oil pump and walbro 255l fuel pump is sufficient for that power.
Bro, i also knew there r few stories of n1 oil pump, so what u suggest? Tomei is the best to me but is it required to change the oil pan as well? Oil pan is killing man.... Or just apply a baffle plate is enough?

 

[gobiz]

Tomei is the no.1 best oil pump. But you will need:
1. RM6000-7000
2. Big capacity/extended oil sump - because the pump will pump so much!
3. Oil restrictor in the block and turbo - otherwise oil will get past your turbo seal and ruin them!

Baffled sump is needed if you are going to track and plan to do a lot of Gs... good idea anyway if the sump if coming off.

People say Nitto oil pump is also good.

I would say genuine latest N1 pump is probably ok but don't rev too high, Nismo (not N1), HKS, Jun oilpumps are also good.

RIPS from NZ used just recond OEM oilpump on RB30 for 700whp! But only rev around 7000rpm.

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Bro, I just used it for street(semi aggresive), I think N1 oil pump should be alright. If use oil pump like Tomei, jun, nismo n hks, I hv to folk out more $ for oil sump which is very expensive. I wish to apply a oil pump that can sustain 450whp+- and it not necessary to change oil sump. Btw, tomei oil pump cost around rm6k to 7k? I tot rm3k to 4k+(convert from yen)....

 

[gobiz]

Yeah, should be ok with N1. Just be careful with the revs and watch your oil pressure.
Its very funny, rb26 is famous for RPM but RPM = ruins peoples motors hehehe

For 6-7k I included everything...maybe underestimate also.

Tomei Oil pump - RM3-4k but add shipping, taxes or not..if kena tax, i think its 30+10%
Sump - not so expensive, just take your sump, put sump extension, mechanic must be good at welding
Oil restrictors in block and turbo
Upah for mechanic to take everything out

Where are you based?
For my project, I'm targeting 550awhp hehehe but lower revs with 2962cc :slug::slug::slug:

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Yeah, should be ok with N1. Just be careful with the revs and watch your oil pressure.
Its very funny, rb26 is famous for RPM but RPM = ruins peoples motors hehehe

For 6-7k I included everything...maybe underestimate also.

Tomei Oil pump - RM3-4k but add shipping, taxes or not..if kena tax, i think its 30+10%
Sump - not so expensive, just take your sump, put sump extension, mechanic must be good at welding
Oil restrictors in block and turbo
Upah for mechanic to take everything out

Where are you based?
For my project, I'm targeting 550awhp hehehe but lower revs with 2962cc :slug::slug::slug:

Can I install a Nismo/Jun oil pump without extend my oil sump, I bet Nismo/Jun oil pump's pump rate are not so strong as Tomei right? I've search many demo car, Tomei oil pump usually used for 600whp+(GT-RS turbo), but my list only Garrett Gt2860-5. Wow~ 550awhp is too power for me, hehehe:-)

 

[Temujin]

For my project, I'm targeting 550awhp hehehe but lower revs with 2962cc :slug::slug::slug:

RB30 single turbo tuned by Haltech



I reckon soon I'll get fat eating dust while watching ur taillight become smaller over the horizon

 

[gobiz]

RB30 single turbo tuned by Haltech



I reckon soon I'll get fat eating dust while watching ur taillight become smaller over the horizon

NOlar boss, oredi bought D-jetro PowerFC...it's a budget project after all, can't afford Haltech although it's definitely better.

Didn't you see the thread on gtruk? 2530s can easily push 600+hp, some people get close to 700hp on them (beyond also if use race fuel).

So maybe *I* will eat *your* dust...but I'm not into racing after all :sleep::sleep::sleep:

 

[kaminari]

My future target is 450whp and I hv been told is good to upgrade all the foundation 1st before u plan to increase your Hp, thus now I wondering is n1 water/oil pump and walbro 255l fuel pump is sufficient for that power.
Bro, i also knew there r few stories of n1 oil pump, so what u suggest? Tomei is the best to me but is it required to change the oil pan as well? Oil pan is killing man.... Or just apply a baffle plate is enough?

Seems I`m bit free today, so i think should do bit write up here...haha.

N1 Oil Pump no doubt already being proved in Super Taikyuu and 24Hour Nur Race and if saying about HP rating, STD BNR34 NUR output is 450HP (with ECU tune & bigger exhaust system) meanwhile Super Taikyuu BNR34 rated over 480PS (473HP). Clearly N1 Oil Pump will support engine HP up to 500HP.

The design for the N1 Oil Pump especially from BNR34 is different from BNR32/BCNR33(Duo Centric Gear Type) which using AFC Rotor.This slightly increase the volume of oil compare BNR32/BCNR33
oil pump.

What`s the hint of Super Taikyuu Oil Pump?Yes they using same N1 Oil Pump and the only different is the gear material which being made from strengthen material SCM430H. If you keen to convert into this gear, REIMAX got sell it. :)

I would say N1 oil pump is best moderate oil pump which can save a lot of your bucks $$ to convert oiling system. High end oil pump like JUN/HKS needing you to change bigger oil sump,oil restrictor and also oil return flow.

Below attach you guys the flow rate of FAMOUS RB Oil Pumps :

1) NISMO Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 47L/min *SCM430H Gear

2) NITTO Oil Pump, at 7000RPM 64.8L (6k RPM est 55.5L/min) * Australia made

3) TOMEI Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 56L/min

4) JUN Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 58.9L/min

5) HKS Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 65L/min

6) REIMAX Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 70L/min * Previously crafted oil pumps for GREDDY

If flow rate over 50L/min rate...it`s recommended to change your oil sump for bigger ones....if not they will SUCKS your oil till DRY~heee


Regards
Tom

 

[NeniNeniBoBo]

Seems I`m bit free today, so i think should do bit write up here...haha.

N1 Oil Pump no doubt already being proved in Super Taikyuu and 24Hour Nur Race and if saying about HP rating, STD BNR34 NUR output is 450HP (with ECU tune & bigger exhaust system) meanwhile Super Taikyuu BNR34 rated over 480PS (473HP). Clearly N1 Oil Pump will support engine HP up to 500HP.

The design for the N1 Oil Pump especially from BNR34 is different from BNR32/BCNR33(Duo Centric Gear Type) which using AFC Rotor.This slightly increase the volume of oil compare BNR32/BCNR33
oil pump.

What`s the hint of Super Taikyuu Oil Pump?Yes they using same N1 Oil Pump and the only different is the gear material which being made from strengthen material SCM430H. If you keen to convert into this gear, REIMAX got sell it. :)

I would say N1 oil pump is best moderate oil pump which can save a lot of your bucks $$ to convert oiling system. High end oil pump like JUN/HKS needing you to change bigger oil sump,oil restrictor and also oil return flow.

Below attach you guys the flow rate of FAMOUS RB Oil Pumps :

1) NISMO Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 47L/min *SCM430H Gear

2) NITTO Oil Pump, at 7000RPM 64.8L (6k RPM est 55.5L/min) * Australia made

3) TOMEI Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 56L/min

4) JUN Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 58.9L/min

5) HKS Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 65L/min

6) REIMAX Oil Pump, at 6000RPM 70L/min * Previously crafted oil pumps for GREDDY

If flow rate over 50L/min rate...it`s recommended to change your oil sump for bigger ones....if not they will SUCKS your oil till DRY~heee


Regards
Tom

Thank you so much bro, you give me all the answers I need! Just to confirm 1 more time, Nismo oil pump is made of SCM430H Gear?
So from your suggestion for 450awhp+-, is worth to get a N1 oil pump(with SCM430H Gear modified) or 1 shot buy Nismo oil pump? And is the crank collar required to used?