Water temperature problem

yup abit high... mine in the morning cruising around 62 celcius.. if stuck in jam almost 100 celsius.. if idle can go up to 110 celcius..,, planning to change to electric fan.... dude what ecu are u running? is ur ignition timing high at low rpm?
 
I think the operating water temp shouldn't run so high, that's around boiling point!

pardon me, non-skyline owner interrupting. interesting topic ler.
planning to git me a GTR soon oso :biggrin:

on a turbocharged german conti water temp is only at 90 degrees, no more, no less. lesser than that the car really runs like crap.

water boils @ 100 celsius is correct, if you're boiling it using a kettle :biggrin:
the radiator cap increases that boiling point effectively by applying a lot of pressure, depends on the max pressure stated on the rad cap. factory radiator caps typically increase the cooling-system pressure by 0.9bar or so.. and that alone raise the effective boiling point to about 6 degrees celsius higher (means frm factory the boiling point is higher,at about 106 degrees celsius if pressure is 0.9bar) so if you guys use higher pressure rad cap, it needs more than 105 degrees to actually boil the coolant ler.

that, if you guys use water as radiator coolant la..
you guys use mahal punya coolant lagi la susah mau boil maa... :smokin:

on a GTR does this problem relates to air/fuel ratio as well?
 
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Wah, naklaju. Your temperatures are so low! *laughs* You must take a very long time to warm up. Does your car even get up to temperature. :biggrin:

---------- Post added at 06:10 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:07 AM ----------

NeniNeniBoBo,
100c is a bit too high for comfort. Lot's of people have already mentioned what I would have said. Do you have an oil cooler? It's not a bad idea to invest in one too.... but get it sorted before you get one. Prevention of a disaster is always better than a cure.

Thanks DC for your advices, will do it asap.

---------- Post added at 02:05 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:02 PM ----------

yup abit high... mine in the morning cruising around 62 celcius.. if stuck in jam almost 100 celsius.. if idle can go up to 110 celcius..,, planning to change to electric fan.... dude what ecu are u running? is ur ignition timing high at low rpm?

Bro, seems like I having the same problem as u, I wanna make the water temperature lower, I plan to mod at next year thus I'll try my best to build a strong foundation this year. Btw, I running a fcon v pro now.

---------- Post added at 02:07 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 02:05 PM ----------

bro ur water pump ok?..

Will check it all at 1 time next week. Wish this one not happen to me~
 
i tot water pump is not expensive , but i dunno abt skyline la..
 
Actually is not a money matter, is the time matter.... From morning wait until night, very tired, face covered by oil n u know how hot inside the garage. Lol~

btw, just curious about the ac fan, mine will stop for a while after few second turn, is it normal to all bnr here? Or it turn unstopable when ac on. And 1 more thing is one of the pulley(behind ac fan) will stop spinning a while even belt is running, slip?
 
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Bro, is the fan clutch is only the "clutch" place in front of the fan? Is it applicable to radiator fan and A/C fan too? Or fan clutch is the "whole fan"??? Sorry this is my 1st time touch with this item....

Btw, just now(night 11.30pm) drove my gtr out to refill petrol, water/oil temperature is normal, is about 78-85C with 100-120kmh, and idle will raise up to 88C(A/C on), thus I start to wonder maybe yesterday my water temperature is cause by hot weather. However, i'll go change to aftermarket thermostat next week and see how.

Anyway, would any bro here mind to state your ride water/oil temperature while idling for 20-30min? I'll very appreciate for your input here. Thanks a lot bro.

Its round steel thingy attach with the fan. There is liquid inside it and when the temp increase it sort off 'lock' so the fan spin faster following the engine rpm.

---------- Post added at 07:28 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------

Actually is not a money matter, is the time matter.... From morning wait until night, very tired, face covered by oil n u know how hot inside the garage. Lol~

btw, just curious about the ac fan, mine will stop for a while after few second turn, is it normal to all bnr here? Or it turn unstopable when ac on. And 1 more thing is one of the pulley(behind ac fan) will stop spinning a while even belt is running, slip?

Normally, it only spin when the temp increase, after awhile it will stop. This function is to avoid the electric burden in the car system and also increase the life of the motor fan.
 
Its round steel thingy attach with the fan. There is liquid inside it and when the temp increase it sort off 'lock' so the fan spin faster following the engine rpm.

---------- Post added at 07:28 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:25 PM ----------



Normally, it only spin when the temp increase, after awhile it will stop. This function is to avoid the electric burden in the car system and also increase the life of the motor fan.

Bro, thank you so much and your explanation is so helpful to me, hehehe:-) but how about the pulley behind the ac fan? If not mistaken I think is place on the water pump there. It also will stop a while even belt is running, is it slipping?
 
If ur engine is on, fan spinning, belting spinning but pulley at water pump is not, the u have jammed water pump. got burning smell? that shud be from ur belting.
 
If ur engine is on, fan spinning, belting spinning but pulley at water pump is not, the u have jammed water pump. got burning smell? that shud be from ur belting.

Bro, no burnng smell from there. I think water pump is begin to jam. At least narrow down the faultly scope now. Thx so much bro ^_^
 
sometimes if ur radiator is too thick and using stock water pump, the water flow in the radiator isnt efficient enough thus reducing the heat transfer and cause increase water temp when idling.. afirnd of mine using koyo rad had this prob until he cahnges to N1 water pump. it reduced his idle water temp
 
I had the same problem before, and below are some of the things that I've done to fix the high temp issue.

1) Reverse flush the radiator, so that all the rust (if any) will come out.
2) Check the fan clutch (it is important), mine was ok at that time.
3) Have you taken out the original fan shroud ? It is a good idea to put it back (or source one that fit your after market radiator) if you have the fan shroud removed.
4) Upgrade a aftermarket thermostat (I've changed a NISMO thermostat), work perfectly.
5) If you have aftermarket ECU, check the air/fuel ratio (especially at idiling range)
6) Finally use a reliable coolant (I used REDLINE Water Wetter, 2 bottles + water will do the job).

Now i am running at most 85 - 95 degree celcius. Before that, the temp meter gave me like what you had .. scarey man !

Hope it helps ...

Good luck !

Cheers
 
sometimes if ur radiator is too thick and using stock water pump, the water flow in the radiator isnt efficient enough thus reducing the heat transfer and cause increase water temp when idling.. afirnd of mine using koyo rad had this prob until he cahnges to N1 water pump. it reduced his idle water temp

im using an aftermarket radiator but Bcoz I'm the second owner of this car, so I don't know whether my car is still running with stock water pump or nt... Anyway, how long to take for chAnge a water pump??

---------- Post added at 12:52 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:33 AM ----------

I had the same problem before, and below are some of the things that I've done to fix the high temp issue.

1) Reverse flush the radiator, so that all the rust (if any) will come out.
2) Check the fan clutch (it is important), mine was ok at that time.
3) Have you taken out the original fan shroud ? It is a good idea to put it back (or source one that fit your after market radiator) if you have the fan shroud removed.
4) Upgrade a aftermarket thermostat (I've changed a NISMO thermostat), work perfectly.
5) If you have aftermarket ECU, check the air/fuel ratio (especially at idiling range)
6) Finally use a reliable coolant (I used REDLINE Water Wetter, 2 bottles + water will do the job).

Now i am running at most 85 - 95 degree celcius. Before that, the temp meter gave me like what you had .. scarey man !

Hope it helps ...

Good luck !

Cheers

As reply to your step:
1) Yes I did.
2) Will do it next week since every sifu suggest me to make it a check. Btw, how much for a fan clutch cost?
3) Too bad this car is come without the fan shroud.... Mechanic told me is quite difficult to find since it cant fit with the aftermarket radiator, is it true?
4) Definitely will do that, but what i knew he only got SARD, is it ok?
5) Ecu again.... I hate the Fcon, very troublesome thing.... I'll ask my tuner bout this.
6) I use Motul Mocool, can I add 2 bottle too?

Thank you so much for your kindly detail info, thanks bro~
 
im using an aftermarket radiator but Bcoz I'm the second owner of this car, so I don't know whether my car is still running with stock water pump or nt... Anyway, how long to take for chAnge a water pump??

---------- Post added at 12:52 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:33 AM ----------



As reply to your step:
1) Yes I did.
2) Will do it next week since every sifu suggest me to make it a check. Btw, how much for a fan clutch cost?
3) Too bad this car is come without the fan shroud.... Mechanic told me is quite difficult to find since it cant fit with the aftermarket radiator, is it true?
4) Definitely will do that, but what i knew he only got SARD, is it ok?
5) Ecu again.... I hate the Fcon, very troublesome thing.... I'll ask my tuner bout this.
6) I use Motul Mocool, can I add 2 bottle too?
Thank you so much for your kindly detail info, thanks bro~

1. Yes, Good !
2.I'm too sure how much it costs, 2nd hand i believe have to be few hundred ??
3. I am using an aftermarket radiator, at first I also did not have a fan shroud, but managed to find one (original RB26), it doesn't fit 100%, need to do some simply modification.
4. SARD should be OK.
5. Yes, better checked with them.
6. I am not too sure, read their instruction, sometimes it doesn't mean that putting in more coolant the better, it will lower the efficiency.
 
1. Yes, Good !
2.I'm too sure how much it costs, 2nd hand i believe have to be few hundred ??
3. I am using an aftermarket radiator, at first I also did not have a fan shroud, but managed to find one (original RB26), it doesn't fit 100%, need to do some simply modification.
4. SARD should be OK.
5. Yes, better checked with them.
6. I am not too sure, read their instruction, sometimes it doesn't mean that putting in more coolant the better, it will lower the efficiency.

Ok, i'll do that this on this Thursday.
2) Ic, mean brand new will easily cost few thousand? Hopefully not that pricey.
 
Great advice here... will have to check this thread again once my car lands in tropical Malaysia.

Now my water temp is right in the middle between C and H even when idling, but the temperature here has not gone beyond 10 C for a long time :rofl::rofl::rofl:
 
Ya, special thanks to sunseeker, reintel and Dr.D. Just wanna make sure one thing before go for my next check up. I read from Skyline AUS forum, the senior said is good to use distilled water instead of tap water to prevent corrode the radiator; but last week I have been told by my mechanic, he said is nvm, how come.....
 
Use distilled water that is correct coz it is free of minerals that may corrode your radiator. RO water is also ok.
 


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