wira a/back 1.5 auto - help needed

burn1892

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burn1892

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wira a/back 1.5 auto - help wanted

:hello:hi im new here...just owned this ride on monday.
car is in good condition with a very low mileage, i mean for an 11-yrs old car (2002).
after driving for few days im now thinking of doing some minor/medium mods to improve
the performance and the fuel consumption.
been reading 0-100 for past few days and got some ideas, but threads are either
inactive or too old.

my humble request to you guys to kindly help me on these mods planned for my
wira a/back 1.5 auto,injection type:-

-K&N drop-in
-4-2-1 extractor (pls enlighten me on "cat" "s-flow" "high-flow")
-lightened crank pulley(LCP)
-bosch or denso iridium spark plugs
-bosch super sports plug cables
-service fuel pump
-oil stabilizer in engine as well as in gear box (is this what "oil-cooler" known as ?)
-power booster to cool engine & injector

bros give your best simplest advice on which to do, which not to and which is optional.
kindly give a price estimation, most importantly guide me where to get these done in
penang (island or mainland, just name it guys).

lots of thanks in advance:smile:
 

burn1892

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burn1892

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:hello:hi im new here...just owned this ride on monday.
car is in good condition with a very low mileage, i mean for an 11-yrs old car (2002).
after driving for few days im now thinking of doing some minor/medium mods to improve
the performance and the fuel consumption.
been reading 0-100 for past few days and got some ideas, but threads are either
inactive or too old.

my humble request to you guys to kindly help me on these mods planned for my
wira a/back 1.5 auto,injection type:-

-K&N drop-in
-4-2-1 extractor (pls enlighten me on "cat" "s-flow" "high-flow")
-lightened crank pulley(LCP)
-bosch or denso iridium spark plugs
-bosch super sports plug cables
-service fuel pump
-oil stabilizer in engine as well as in gear box (is this what "oil-cooler" known as ?)
-power booster to cool engine & injector

bros give your best simplest advice on which to do, which not to and which is optional.
kindly give a price estimation, most importantly guide me where to get these done in
penang (island or mainland, just name it guys).

lots of thanks in advance:smile:
 

^pomen_GTR^

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^pomen_GTR^

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ditch all those mods and straight go for manual gearbox conversion....

much better than all those u've mentioned upgrade combined
 

LittleWhiteWagon

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LittleWhiteWagon

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Re: wira a/back 1.5 auto - help wanted

:hello:hi im new here...just owned this ride on monday.
car is in good condition with a very low mileage, i mean for an 11-yrs old car (2002).
after driving for few days im now thinking of doing some minor/medium mods to improve
the performance and the fuel consumption.
been reading 0-100 for past few days and got some ideas, but threads are either
inactive or too old.

my humble request to you guys to kindly help me on these mods planned for my
wira a/back 1.5 auto,injection type:-

-K&N drop-in
-4-2-1 extractor (pls enlighten me on "cat" "s-flow" "high-flow")
-lightened crank pulley(LCP)
-bosch or denso iridium spark plugs
-bosch super sports plug cables
-service fuel pump
-oil stabilizer in engine as well as in gear box (is this what "oil-cooler" known as ?)
-power booster to cool engine & injector

bros give your best simplest advice on which to do, which not to and which is optional.
kindly give a price estimation, most importantly guide me where to get these done in
penang (island or mainland, just name it guys).

lots of thanks in advance:smile:
The K&N drop in will make the car rev faster, less restriction in your induction side helps the engine suck air in easier. Fractionally more maybe, but easier is the main issue. Camshaft duration allows more air into the engine.

Likewise with the LCP, anything that is lighter than original will spin easier because less energy is needed to do so. The LCP is not a power adder, but the car will rev more freely.

Exhaust: A 'cat' = catalytic converter. You can use google to learn what that is. S-flow is the ever famous Malaysian term for a muffler that has a flow inside the muffler that is literally shaped like the letter S. Every 'exhaust specialist' will say you NEED a S-flow for automatic cars to retain backpressure. This if you do your own homework, you'll know why it's bullshit and why S-flow design mufflers were created. Nobody designs exhausts overseas saying we must have backpressure, unless its a 2 stroke than that's a different thing entirely

Expensive spark plugs don't add power, though it does add smoothness and longevity, so if you have the budget getting anything better than copper lasts long, but at the cost of expense.

If your fuel pump is working fine why do you need to service it?

I do not know what an oil stabilizer is, but an oil cooler is basically a radiator for oil. You do not NEED this unless you plan to track the car heavily and use the thinnest oils around. You can always read up anyways what are the pros and cons on using an oil cooler.

God knows what a power booster is, your engine runs fine from the factory. As long there is no traces of overheating DO NOT overcool an engine. It needs to be hot to run optimally but cool enough to not start er... overheating.





Anyways my personal advice since I drive a 1.5 auto as well is... don't dream of drag racing VTEC's with this engine. It's very reliable & cheap, but not the fastest thing around. If you have the budget maybe you can find a 4G18 crankshaft with its conrods and pistons, go stroke the engine to get a bit more power and torque. Or you can always get the Jasma crankshaft. It seems to be reliable enough. Spend a bit of money on good oil, if you can run synthetic oils. They are (usually) always smoother and it's nice to have a car thats smooth right? It's just a personal view of mine. :biggrin:


Last but not least know WHY you're modding. How a specific part works, and how it helps with your car. With everything you gain, usually it will be at the expense of losing something. Whether it is a performance or a reliability mod, always plan ahead and don't be unrealistic unless you have tons of money. Sometimes less is more. Happy modding! :driver:
 

burn1892

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burn1892

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Re: wira a/back 1.5 auto - help wanted

bro littlewhitewagon thx a lot for the detailed and informative explanations..
very good reference for me and others as well..I wasn't really planning to do all
those I mentioned but at the same time wanted to know more.

anyway just sent my car for servicing and I'll update once done.
meanwhile like u said I'll keep doing my homework, once confident will try to improve further especially the crankshaft matter.
thx again bro
 

leynye yamin

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leynye yamin

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add oil cooler for auto gear box. flush old atf fluid with new ones. change to fully synthetic engine oil,
I do recommend the knn drop in filter but drop the rest, and only replace t he rear muffler if you want a bassy exhaust, dont change the original exhaust manifold.

---------- Post added at 08:40 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:39 AM ----------

since you just had the car, suggest changing spark plug, as well. and dont add additives to the engine.

---------- Post added at 08:41 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:40 AM ----------

most of this can DIY, can save you $$$.
Cheers.

---------- Post added at 08:42 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------

check for leaks on vacumm hoses, they help in performance too.
 

Izso

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The sifus have spoken!

Among all you've listed, only the drop in air filter and LCP is ok. Everything else forget it. I have a Wira SE auto and one of the things to do is to install a gearbox cooler like what leynye yamin said. It's not compulsary but it helps prolong your gearbox if you high rev all the time. Use fully synthetic or good gearbox oil (SP III only) like Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII and together with the gearbox cooler it'll prolong the lifespan of your GB for a long time. Keep change intervals to 20k km or 40k km max.

Use good fully synthetic engine oil (5W40 preferred). Caveat is you mustn't have any leaking oil seals or gaskets. If you do, have them changed before you flush your engine or use fully synthetic oil.

Get a ultra lightweight rims. Makes a huge difference in acceleration. Advanti make cheap and cheerful lighweight rims that aren't brittle.

Upgrade brakes to Wira/Satria/Putra 1.6/1.8 and get the servo also.

Get good suspension, adjustable if you don't mind the bumpiness (even hi/lo/soft/hard will be slightly more harder than stock) or use performance springs and absorbers (like Koni eibach).

Get a 90A alternator and make sure the pulley is the same size. Install a nice sound system and just cruiiiiiiiiiise.

---------- Post added at 10:13 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:54 AM ----------

Btw, any change in exhaust will result in a louder exhaust. You might like it initially but as time goes by, it'll get very irritating because the 3-speed auto has very tall ratios. The exhaust will drone and get quite loud (even with stock Wira SE exhaust) and after a while it'll get to you. So if you do change the exhaust, just be prepared for that. Recommend you get a reputable exhaust like those from Superstreet, hotbits, Everco, etc. Don't go beyond 1.75" diameter cuz any bigger and you'll lose low end torque.

Stick with a S-flow rear muffler, a straight midbox (resonator) and the catcon for backflow pressure. Straightflow will make the autobox go crazy as well.

Don't remove the catalytic convertor la.. save the environment. Or invest on a high flow catcon if you must. And if you remove the catcon, keep the catcon cuz it's worth a lot of money and if you want to swap back to stock, it's damn expensive to buy!
 

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For an 11yr old car good to change to iridium plugs, some aftermarket plug cables, nice thick gauge grounding, 90A alternator, a good high flow drop in filter(K&N) Do a nice custom Cold Air Intake to the standard airbox, some chassis strengthening bars, proper wheels like Izso mentioned.

For FC and performance I suggest to do at least a top overhaul first before adding higher quality oils. Clear out all the old deposits and service the GB. Get a tuned exhaust system for optimum performance gain. If its a Siemens ECU, you can't really do much.
 

Izso

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Izso

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For an 11yr old car good to change to iridium plugs, some aftermarket plug cables, nice thick gauge grounding, 90A alternator, a good high flow drop in filter(K&N) Do a nice custom Cold Air Intake to the standard airbox, some chassis strengthening bars, proper wheels like Izso mentioned.

For FC and performance I suggest to do at least a top overhaul first before adding higher quality oils. Clear out all the old deposits and service the GB. Get a tuned exhaust system for optimum performance gain. If its a Siemens ECU, you can't really do much.
Damn. I wanna remove my 'like' already. Siemens ECU is good cuz you don't need to do much. It'll adapt to whatever mods you throw at it so you never have to worry about a/f mix and ignition timing. I've done extensive mods and still running on stock ECU without any issues.
 

burn1892

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burn1892

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wonderful & informative replies....I deeply appreciate u guys for helping me out..I had my car diagnosed at a workshop..i will update soon...thank you very much all of you...now going to do some homework regarding mods u guys suggested, then will upgrade little by little soon if not now
 

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wonderful & informative replies....I deeply appreciate u guys for helping me out..I had my car diagnosed at a workshop..i will update soon...thank you very much all of you...now going to do some homework regarding mods u guys suggested, then will upgrade little by little soon if not now
You got a budget? If you do then there's a few more things I'd highly recommend to you to help improve the power and even your fuel consumpiton.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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You got a budget? If you do then there's a few more things I'd highly recommend to you to help improve the power and even your fuel consumpiton.
Wah! add power and save fuel.......turbo can ah? pulling your leg......:biggrin::biggrin:

Going to pass on some knowledge from your hero's mod.....:driver:
 

Izso

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Wah! add power and save fuel.......turbo can ah? pulling your leg......:biggrin::biggrin:

Going to pass on some knowledge from your hero's mod.....:driver:
My hero can do more. But I'm just not bothered anymore. After the next TTA she's going into a retirement home. :biggrin:

Add power yes, the save fuel part really depends on how you drive. Back then my 3-speeder had lots of power (nothing like yours la... 'lots of power' for a 3-speed auto) and as long as I drove sensibly without any revving, I actually managed 15km/L most times with minimum 12km/L. On gila babi rev like mad days worst I got was 10km/L. Not bad for a 3-speed auto mah and 96whp isn't bad either! Just that it's nothing like your 150whp turbo petrol monster la. :biggrin:
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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My hero can do more. But I'm just not bothered anymore. After the next TTA she's going into a retirement home. :biggrin:

Add power yes, the save fuel part really depends on how you drive. Back then my 3-speeder had lots of power (nothing like yours la... 'lots of power' for a 3-speed auto) and as long as I drove sensibly without any revving, I actually managed 15km/L most times with minimum 12km/L. On gila babi rev like mad days worst I got was 10km/L. Not bad for a 3-speed auto mah and 96whp isn't bad either! Just that it's nothing like your 150whp turbo petrol monster la. :biggrin:
Tried to drive slowly, but never can.....hahahahaha:biggrin: 7.5km/l I think was best.....:bawling:
 

burn1892

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burn1892

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ditch all those mods and straight go for manual gearbox conversion....

much better than all those u've mentioned upgrade combined
add oil cooler for auto gear box. flush old atf fluid with new ones. change to fully synthetic engine oil,
I do recommend the knn drop in filter but drop the rest, and only replace t he rear muffler if you want a bassy exhaust, dont change the original exhaust manifold.

---------- Post added at 08:40 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:39 AM ----------

since you just had the car, suggest changing spark plug, as well. and dont add additives to the engine.

---------- Post added at 08:41 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:40 AM ----------

most of this can DIY, can save you $$$.
Cheers.

---------- Post added at 08:42 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------

check for leaks on vacumm hoses, they help in performance too.
The sifus have spoken!

Among all you've listed, only the drop in air filter and LCP is ok. Everything else forget it. I have a Wira SE auto and one of the things to do is to install a gearbox cooler like what leynye yamin said. It's not compulsary but it helps prolong your gearbox if you high rev all the time. Use fully synthetic or good gearbox oil (SP III only) like Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII and together with the gearbox cooler it'll prolong the lifespan of your GB for a long time. Keep change intervals to 20k km or 40k km max.

Use good fully synthetic engine oil (5W40 preferred). Caveat is you mustn't have any leaking oil seals or gaskets. If you do, have them changed before you flush your engine or use fully synthetic oil.

Get a ultra lightweight rims. Makes a huge difference in acceleration. Advanti make cheap and cheerful lighweight rims that aren't brittle.

Upgrade brakes to Wira/Satria/Putra 1.6/1.8 and get the servo also.

Get good suspension, adjustable if you don't mind the bumpiness (even hi/lo/soft/hard will be slightly more harder than stock) or use performance springs and absorbers (like Koni eibach).

Get a 90A alternator and make sure the pulley is the same size. Install a nice sound system and just cruiiiiiiiiiise.

---------- Post added at 10:13 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:54 AM ----------

Btw, any change in exhaust will result in a louder exhaust. You might like it initially but as time goes by, it'll get very irritating because the 3-speed auto has very tall ratios. The exhaust will drone and get quite loud (even with stock Wira SE exhaust) and after a while it'll get to you. So if you do change the exhaust, just be prepared for that. Recommend you get a reputable exhaust like those from Superstreet, hotbits, Everco, etc. Don't go beyond 1.75" diameter cuz any bigger and you'll lose low end torque.

Stick with a S-flow rear muffler, a straight midbox (resonator) and the catcon for backflow pressure. Straightflow will make the autobox go crazy as well.

Don't remove the catalytic convertor la.. save the environment. Or invest on a high flow catcon if you must. And if you remove the catcon, keep the catcon cuz it's worth a lot of money and if you want to swap back to stock, it's damn expensive to buy!
For an 11yr old car good to change to iridium plugs, some aftermarket plug cables, nice thick gauge grounding, 90A alternator, a good high flow drop in filter(K&N) Do a nice custom Cold Air Intake to the standard airbox, some chassis strengthening bars, proper wheels like Izso mentioned.

For FC and performance I suggest to do at least a top overhaul first before adding higher quality oils. Clear out all the old deposits and service the GB. Get a tuned exhaust system for optimum performance gain. If its a Siemens ECU, you can't really do much.

good day evry1...here's the list of things need to be done:-

- top overhaul
* little leakings detected

- skimming
* im not sure what it is, and this is only IF required while top-overhaul being done

- engine oil (eneos 10w40) + filter
*requested 5w40 but foreman said 1.5 engine better use 10w40, i was a little confused but agreed..

- timing belt (ori mitsu)

- fan belt (ori proton)

- oil sump
*needed cleaning or to be changed, not too sure

- iridium plugs and cables (bosch)
*ordered thru a lowyat member today so it'll take some time, hopeful to get it in time before the top overhauling finishes

- mounting
* changing all four since 2 of them are torn

- ATF oil change (ori proton brand)
*requested flush, f'man said not much difference it will make, i agreed
*requested Mitsu Diaqueen SPIII, f'man this time said ori proton is SPIII as well except that the liquid being a tad thicker, and, Mitsu SPIII's liquid which is thinner, thus, for 1.5 auto gb, it is possible for the gears to 'slip' (from his exp with other wiras)....again, i was helpless so just agreed

- wheel bearing (left sided front & rear)

- rear brake shoes (cresto or crestor)
*had to change since brake shoes needed to be dismantled
*requested for better brands (bendic, ebc) but foreman had no others
*front disc pads are still good

- roof lamp changed

- all power window serviced

- radiator flush + necessary valves/seals replacements

- coolant

estimated total charges: RM1820
my budget was 1.5k, so decided to stop there..


need to change sooner:
rear absorber (left only, very small leakage)
*planning to change both rear, medium-range ones

90A alternator
K&N drop-in filter
cold air intake
oil cooler

*foreman suggests only to do the oil cooler as drop-ins & CAI only jams up the throttle body with the amount of air-intakes which will then lead to a lesser engine 'power' - :hmmmm:guys, i'm confused but confident of getting explanations just as i have been receiving all this while

thanks & regards

---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:41 PM ----------

You got a budget? If you do then there's a few more things I'd highly recommend to you to help improve the power and even your fuel consumpiton.
its my pleasure bro izso....do kindly share with me
i will try to do/upgade them in phases, and of course when i have the budget too..

btw can bros suggest good brands and the prices for these items:-

rear muffler
LCP
rear absorbers
90A alternator & pulley
K&N drop-in filter
cold air intake
oil cooler

other items suggested by bros I shall consider later

thx again
 

LittleWhiteWagon

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LittleWhiteWagon

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Re: wira a/back 1.5 auto - help wanted

bro littlewhitewagon thx a lot for the detailed and informative explanations..
very good reference for me and others as well..I wasn't really planning to do all
those I mentioned but at the same time wanted to know more.

anyway just sent my car for servicing and I'll update once done.
meanwhile like u said I'll keep doing my homework, once confident will try to improve further especially the crankshaft matter.
thx again bro
Not a problem. :biggrin:
 

Izso

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Izso

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First of all, I'd suggest you change mechanic. This guy sounds like he's just after your money and is looking to chop you. SPIII is SPIII regardless of brand. The main difference is whether it's fully syn or semi syn. Mitsu Diaqueen doesn't cause slip gears like he claims, I revved the crap out of my 3-speed gearbox and really abused it. With a ATF cooler it worked great and it never gave any problems. Always used Diaqueen.

5W40 is rare among mechanics so not surprised he insisted on 10W40. It's not a big deal but he's just one lazy ass mechanic to keep forcing you to use his products. What brand and model of 10W40 did he recommend to you?

In your case, forget about the oil cooler and install the gearbox cooler instead. You don't really need an oil cooler. CAI and drop-in will allow more air (cooler air) into the engine, yes but it won't affect power la. If you're using a Siemens VDO Wira and not a MMC one, the VDO will self adjust the air-fuel mixture to compensate for the more air which is even better la.

- Alternator isn't a must if your current one is working.
- Absorbers is a must. Get a good set front and back together with springs. If you're still on original setup, it's very likely worn out complete (springs also)
- LCP and CAI isn't really necessary at the moment.
- Drop in airfilter doesn't have to be K&N. Just find a reputable brand one that isn't a metal-mesh type filter and it'll do. K&N is very expensive and needs to be oiled.
- Recommend you consider brakes upgrade. Front caliper swap to Putra/Wira/Satria 1.8 and the master servo as well. Leave the rear drums, they work fine and you have new pads anyway.

The things that I wanted to recommend was stroking, port and polishing, overbore and all that good stuff. But since you just got your car, I suggest you get used to it first and master driving the car. Once you have it sorted, then only considering upping the power.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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Wira mod sifu have spoken.....:driver:

Oi! when want to try your Trestor Blue Advantage. After try maybe you will recommend also....hahahahaha:rofl:
 

Izso

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Izso

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Wira mod sifu have spoken.....:driver:

Oi! when want to try your Trestor Blue Advantage. After try maybe you will recommend also....hahahahaha:rofl:
Sorry la sifu. How to colect from you?