wira a/back 1.5 auto - help needed

burn1892

Active Member
Thread starter
Jun 19, 2013
41
0
506
PENANG
ditch all those mods and straight go for manual gearbox conversion....

much better than all those u've mentioned upgrade combined
add oil cooler for auto gear box. flush old atf fluid with new ones. change to fully synthetic engine oil,
I do recommend the knn drop in filter but drop the rest, and only replace t he rear muffler if you want a bassy exhaust, dont change the original exhaust manifold.

---------- Post added at 08:40 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:39 AM ----------

since you just had the car, suggest changing spark plug, as well. and dont add additives to the engine.

---------- Post added at 08:41 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:40 AM ----------

most of this can DIY, can save you $$$.
Cheers.

---------- Post added at 08:42 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:41 AM ----------

check for leaks on vacumm hoses, they help in performance too.
The sifus have spoken!

Among all you've listed, only the drop in air filter and LCP is ok. Everything else forget it. I have a Wira SE auto and one of the things to do is to install a gearbox cooler like what leynye yamin said. It's not compulsary but it helps prolong your gearbox if you high rev all the time. Use fully synthetic or good gearbox oil (SP III only) like Mitsubishi Diaqueen SPIII and together with the gearbox cooler it'll prolong the lifespan of your GB for a long time. Keep change intervals to 20k km or 40k km max.

Use good fully synthetic engine oil (5W40 preferred). Caveat is you mustn't have any leaking oil seals or gaskets. If you do, have them changed before you flush your engine or use fully synthetic oil.

Get a ultra lightweight rims. Makes a huge difference in acceleration. Advanti make cheap and cheerful lighweight rims that aren't brittle.

Upgrade brakes to Wira/Satria/Putra 1.6/1.8 and get the servo also.

Get good suspension, adjustable if you don't mind the bumpiness (even hi/lo/soft/hard will be slightly more harder than stock) or use performance springs and absorbers (like Koni eibach).

Get a 90A alternator and make sure the pulley is the same size. Install a nice sound system and just cruiiiiiiiiiise.

---------- Post added at 10:13 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:54 AM ----------

Btw, any change in exhaust will result in a louder exhaust. You might like it initially but as time goes by, it'll get very irritating because the 3-speed auto has very tall ratios. The exhaust will drone and get quite loud (even with stock Wira SE exhaust) and after a while it'll get to you. So if you do change the exhaust, just be prepared for that. Recommend you get a reputable exhaust like those from Superstreet, hotbits, Everco, etc. Don't go beyond 1.75" diameter cuz any bigger and you'll lose low end torque.

Stick with a S-flow rear muffler, a straight midbox (resonator) and the catcon for backflow pressure. Straightflow will make the autobox go crazy as well.

Don't remove the catalytic convertor la.. save the environment. Or invest on a high flow catcon if you must. And if you remove the catcon, keep the catcon cuz it's worth a lot of money and if you want to swap back to stock, it's damn expensive to buy!
For an 11yr old car good to change to iridium plugs, some aftermarket plug cables, nice thick gauge grounding, 90A alternator, a good high flow drop in filter(K&N) Do a nice custom Cold Air Intake to the standard airbox, some chassis strengthening bars, proper wheels like Izso mentioned.

For FC and performance I suggest to do at least a top overhaul first before adding higher quality oils. Clear out all the old deposits and service the GB. Get a tuned exhaust system for optimum performance gain. If its a Siemens ECU, you can't really do much.

good day evry1...here's the list of things need to be done:-

- top overhaul
* little leakings detected

- skimming
* im not sure what it is, and this is only IF required while top-overhaul being done

- engine oil (eneos 10w40) + filter
*requested 5w40 but foreman said 1.5 engine better use 10w40, i was a little confused but agreed..

- timing belt (ori mitsu)

- fan belt (ori proton)

- oil sump
*needed cleaning or to be changed, not too sure

- iridium plugs and cables (bosch)
*ordered thru a lowyat member today so it'll take some time, hopeful to get it in time before the top overhauling finishes

- mounting
* changing all four since 2 of them are torn

- ATF oil change (ori proton brand)
*requested flush, f'man said not much difference it will make, i agreed
*requested Mitsu Diaqueen SPIII, f'man this time said ori proton is SPIII as well except that the liquid being a tad thicker, and, Mitsu SPIII's liquid which is thinner, thus, for 1.5 auto gb, it is possible for the gears to 'slip' (from his exp with other wiras)....again, i was helpless so just agreed

- wheel bearing (left sided front & rear)

- rear brake shoes (cresto or crestor)
*had to change since brake shoes needed to be dismantled
*requested for better brands (bendic, ebc) but foreman had no others
*front disc pads are still good

- roof lamp changed

- all power window serviced

- radiator flush + necessary valves/seals replacements

- coolant

estimated total charges: RM1820
my budget was 1.5k, so decided to stop there..


need to change sooner:
rear absorber (left only, very small leakage)
*planning to change both rear, medium-range ones

90A alternator
K&N drop-in filter
cold air intake
oil cooler

*foreman suggests only to do the oil cooler as drop-ins & CAI only jams up the throttle body with the amount of air-intakes which will then lead to a lesser engine 'power' - :hmmmm:guys, i'm confused but confident of getting explanations just as i have been receiving all this while

thanks & regards

---------- Post added at 06:55 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:41 PM ----------

You got a budget? If you do then there's a few more things I'd highly recommend to you to help improve the power and even your fuel consumpiton.
its my pleasure bro izso....do kindly share with me
i will try to do/upgade them in phases, and of course when i have the budget too..

btw can bros suggest good brands and the prices for these items:-

rear muffler
LCP
rear absorbers
90A alternator & pulley
K&N drop-in filter
cold air intake
oil cooler

other items suggested by bros I shall consider later

thx again
 

LittleWhiteWagon

1,500 RPM
Senior Member
Oct 12, 2009
1,656
187
1,663
P.J
Re: wira a/back 1.5 auto - help wanted

bro littlewhitewagon thx a lot for the detailed and informative explanations..
very good reference for me and others as well..I wasn't really planning to do all
those I mentioned but at the same time wanted to know more.

anyway just sent my car for servicing and I'll update once done.
meanwhile like u said I'll keep doing my homework, once confident will try to improve further especially the crankshaft matter.
thx again bro
Not a problem. :biggrin:
 

Izso

NA NA NA NA NA
Helmet Clan
Moderator
Mar 28, 2004
15,389
6,411
5,213
KL
First of all, I'd suggest you change mechanic. This guy sounds like he's just after your money and is looking to chop you. SPIII is SPIII regardless of brand. The main difference is whether it's fully syn or semi syn. Mitsu Diaqueen doesn't cause slip gears like he claims, I revved the crap out of my 3-speed gearbox and really abused it. With a ATF cooler it worked great and it never gave any problems. Always used Diaqueen.

5W40 is rare among mechanics so not surprised he insisted on 10W40. It's not a big deal but he's just one lazy ass mechanic to keep forcing you to use his products. What brand and model of 10W40 did he recommend to you?

In your case, forget about the oil cooler and install the gearbox cooler instead. You don't really need an oil cooler. CAI and drop-in will allow more air (cooler air) into the engine, yes but it won't affect power la. If you're using a Siemens VDO Wira and not a MMC one, the VDO will self adjust the air-fuel mixture to compensate for the more air which is even better la.

- Alternator isn't a must if your current one is working.
- Absorbers is a must. Get a good set front and back together with springs. If you're still on original setup, it's very likely worn out complete (springs also)
- LCP and CAI isn't really necessary at the moment.
- Drop in airfilter doesn't have to be K&N. Just find a reputable brand one that isn't a metal-mesh type filter and it'll do. K&N is very expensive and needs to be oiled.
- Recommend you consider brakes upgrade. Front caliper swap to Putra/Wira/Satria 1.8 and the master servo as well. Leave the rear drums, they work fine and you have new pads anyway.

The things that I wanted to recommend was stroking, port and polishing, overbore and all that good stuff. But since you just got your car, I suggest you get used to it first and master driving the car. Once you have it sorted, then only considering upping the power.
 

vr2turbo

Beyond 20,000 RPM!
Helmet Clan
Moderator
May 11, 2010
29,998
8,385
1,713
Petaling Jaya
Wira mod sifu have spoken.....:driver:

Oi! when want to try your Trestor Blue Advantage. After try maybe you will recommend also....hahahahaha:rofl:
 

Izso

NA NA NA NA NA
Helmet Clan
Moderator
Mar 28, 2004
15,389
6,411
5,213
KL
Until you are free, no worries, not taking up much space.......:biggrin:
Just thought you may be anxious to try them out.....:driver:
I actually did some minor repairs to my rear calipers and the brakes are biting way better now. But my stupid handbrake is still not tight enough. Need to try adjusting from the console.
 

vr2turbo

Beyond 20,000 RPM!
Helmet Clan
Moderator
May 11, 2010
29,998
8,385
1,713
Petaling Jaya
I actually did some minor repairs to my rear calipers and the brakes are biting way better now. But my stupid handbrake is still not tight enough. Need to try adjusting from the console.
You need to adjust from the calipers first. I had problems before, my old calipers were not self adjusting. so every time the pads wears, my handbrakes became higher. Of course it is easier to adjust from console but there will be a limit, then have to send to mechanic adjust from caliper. Mine at caliper requires the special tool to turn the piston out (for handbrakes):mad:
 

Izso

NA NA NA NA NA
Helmet Clan
Moderator
Mar 28, 2004
15,389
6,411
5,213
KL
You need to adjust from the calipers first. I had problems before, my old calipers were not self adjusting. so every time the pads wears, my handbrakes became higher. Of course it is easier to adjust from console but there will be a limit, then have to send to mechanic adjust from caliper. Mine at caliper requires the special tool to turn the piston out (for handbrakes):mad:
The special 'tool' I've learnt to turn the caliper is the long nose plier :biggrin:
 

^pomen_GTR^

7,000 RPM
Senior Member
May 13, 2010
7,509
1,690
1,713
The Mines
The special 'tool' I've learnt to turn the caliper is the long nose plier :biggrin:
same here :biggrin:

but not i found out a better "special tool"

using the multiple clip plier like this




 

Izso

NA NA NA NA NA
Helmet Clan
Moderator
Mar 28, 2004
15,389
6,411
5,213
KL
pomen : wouldn't that tool be really soft? The long nose plier is very solid ler. This c-clip plier isn't going to be strong enough to turn that piston
 

burn1892

Active Member
Thread starter
Jun 19, 2013
41
0
506
PENANG
hi bro iszo..sorry to reply late
i dont really know bout this guy, this is my 1st experience with the workshop..but he gave simple yet easy to u/std type of explanations for almost all my questions..but, yes different ppl different opinions, upon one's experiences..

abt the mitsu SPIII, he didnt discourage me frm using it nor did he encourage me..but he said hes unsure of using it in a wira gb (tats when he raised the "gear slip" matter) since theres alrdy an SPlll from proton itself, which is also mitsu standard, according to him..in the end he asked for my choice, and i opt for the low risk proton SPIII..but now im fixed on my next atf replacement, mitsu DQ SPIII:)

for the engine oil he used Eneos, and said 10w40 wud be advisable for older wira like mine..

yes bro mine is an VDO type, i'll do the most important ones first like u suggested..
-is hayden for tranny cooler ok?
-k&n drop-in filter rm1250, yea very expnsv indeed, works' is cheap but uses stainless steel-mesh type..any other rcmndation other than the two?
-searching for front calipers, absorbers & etc, is servo a must? i dont really know how to "feel" if its still good to be used or not

yes bro like u said i'll try to maximum-use the car before getting other upgrades..meanwhile will study ur other suggestions "stroking, port and polishing, overbore" who knows one day i may need one or all of them.
thx a lot mate...surely kena blanja u for ur eye-opening ideas and advises all this while:)
regrds n cheers
 

desmond0318

Known Member
May 31, 2013
467
48
528
Kuala Lumpur
Hi burn1892, im also driving wira with VDO ECU for 10years, honestly when there is a budget, the most worth to mod is extractor/piping.. Don't waste money on expansive spark plugs and cable, for sure we will notice the performance when we just install it in, but we have to understand what our ECU made for, as VDO some said good because itself learning ECU, but don't forget itself revert as well, and we never know when it gonna revert and when will gonna learn again.
For tuner, this is a retarted ECU that need EMS, for daily driver this is good ECU that keeps our parts inside engine running normal performance so those parts last long abit than MMC's ECU.
But the tune curiosty or hobby is still there because modern car lovers treat their cars/bikes like ancient knight treat their horse, there is no knight without a muscular lightning speed horse? j/k :biggrin:
 
Last edited:

Izso

NA NA NA NA NA
Helmet Clan
Moderator
Mar 28, 2004
15,389
6,411
5,213
KL
hi bro iszo..sorry to reply late
i dont really know bout this guy, this is my 1st experience with the workshop..but he gave simple yet easy to u/std type of explanations for almost all my questions..but, yes different ppl different opinions, upon one's experiences..

abt the mitsu SPIII, he didnt discourage me frm using it nor did he encourage me..but he said hes unsure of using it in a wira gb (tats when he raised the "gear slip" matter) since theres alrdy an SPlll from proton itself, which is also mitsu standard, according to him..in the end he asked for my choice, and i opt for the low risk proton SPIII..but now im fixed on my next atf replacement, mitsu DQ SPIII:)

for the engine oil he used Eneos, and said 10w40 wud be advisable for older wira like mine..

yes bro mine is an VDO type, i'll do the most important ones first like u suggested..
-is hayden for tranny cooler ok?
-k&n drop-in filter rm1250, yea very expnsv indeed, works' is cheap but uses stainless steel-mesh type..any other rcmndation other than the two?
-searching for front calipers, absorbers & etc, is servo a must? i dont really know how to "feel" if its still good to be used or not

yes bro like u said i'll try to maximum-use the car before getting other upgrades..meanwhile will study ur other suggestions "stroking, port and polishing, overbore" who knows one day i may need one or all of them.
thx a lot mate...surely kena blanja u for ur eye-opening ideas and advises all this while:)
regrds n cheers
- Hayden is good. Works is smaller but more expensive but it's good too.
- K&N isn't RM1250 la... RM125 maybe. Look out for Simota, Works, Redline, they all have filters without metal mesh. But if you can pay for a K&N no problems except for maintenance, I personally am lazy to wash and re-oil.
- servo isn't a must la. I'm still using stock Wira SE servo with my 1.6/1.8 calipers off a Putra.

Stroke, oversized pistons go together. Port and polishing is separate.

Mitsu DQSPIII can wait until after your next oil change la. But remember to replace the gb filter.

Hi burn1892, im also driving wira with VDO ECU for 10years, honestly when there is a budget, the most worth to mod is extractor/piping.. Don't waste money on expansive spark plugs and cable, for sure we will notice the performance when we just install it in, but we have to understand what our ECU made for, as VDO some said good because itself learning ECU, but don't forget itself revert as well, and we never know when it gonna revert and when will gonna learn again.
For tuner, this is a retarted ECU that need EMS, for daily driver this is good ECU that keeps our parts inside engine running normal performance so those parts last long abit than MMC's ECU.
But the tune curiosty or hobby is still there because modern car lovers treat their cars/bikes like ancient knight treat their horse, there is no knight without a muscular lightning speed horse? j/k :biggrin:
Uh.. VDO will keep learning la. It's not going to revert back to stock unless you force it to (battery disconnected for more than 24 hours or using PDT to reset the ECU).

But extractor and piping is a good idea. But I would normally recommend this last until you're done with the mods. If you change now (stock) then recommended to use 4-2-1 or 4-1 depending on preference, 1.7" piping and s-flow rear muffler for auto. But if you stroke then exhaust needs to change again to utilize the power. I'm using 2" full piping which if used on stock won't necessarily work well.
 

Random Post Every 5 Minutes

hi.anyone here have install adjustable fuel regulator on your viva..please share with me how you did that..thank you..
Ask a question, start a discussion or post something for sale!
Post thread

Online now

Enjoying Zerotohundred?

Log-in for an ad-less experience