turbo manifold crack

ahloy74

Active Member
Senior Member
Joined
Feb 6, 2011
Messages
46
Points
508
Location
n sembilan
Hi all,

recently decided to remove my JSpeed manifold heat shield due to its rattling on idle. Its spot weld has came off. Suddenly notice a hair line crack measuring approx 3 inch long. During idle it doesnt produce any weird sound.

Will this defect affect performance?? As off behind the wheel, feel as normal as before.
 
Hi all,

recently decided to remove my JSpeed manifold heat shield due to its rattling on idle. Its spot weld has came off. Suddenly notice a hair line crack measuring approx 3 inch long. During idle it doesnt produce any weird sound.

Will this defect affect performance?? As off behind the wheel, feel as normal as before.

Even no leak sound, there could be a minute leak, but a crack anyway means breaking up. Once develop leak then need boost more to achieve normal level.
I crack two cast iron manifold already. Seems the VR4 manifold cast iron one very prone to crack....:banghead:
 
Even no leak sound, there could be a minute leak, but a crack anyway means breaking up. Once develop leak then need boost more to achieve normal level.
I crack two cast iron manifold already. Seems the VR4 manifold cast iron one very prone to crack....:banghead:

Ok bro, take note of that. Without realizing and i thought normal, the engine is working extra to compensate for the minute leak. Will find replacement from chopshop. Thks
 
Ok bro, take note of that. Without realizing and i thought normal, the engine is working extra to compensate for the minute leak. Will find replacement from chopshop. Thks

Chop shop need to buy whole turbine together if not mistaken....:smokin:
 
Hi all,

recently decided to remove my JSpeed manifold heat shield due to its rattling on idle. Its spot weld has came off. Suddenly notice a hair line crack measuring approx 3 inch long. During idle it doesnt produce any weird sound.

Will this defect affect performance?? As off behind the wheel, feel as normal as before.

Imagine trying to suck through a straw with pin hole. If too lazy to take it off, then just clean the area and weld it. Otherwise have some shop custom make a tubular stainless steel manifold, last longer & spool better and faster. Also, wrap it up with high temp wrap. Good luck.
 
Chop shop need to buy whole turbine together if not mistaken....:smokin:

Imagine trying to suck through a straw with pin hole. If too lazy to take it off, then just clean the area and weld it. Otherwise have some shop custom make a tubular stainless steel manifold, last longer & spool better and faster. Also, wrap it up with high temp wrap. Good luck.

Ok bro. Noted. Contemplating on changing to tubular manifold but i really love the quick spooling of OEM cast manifold.
currently more on saving cost approach. Thks.

---------- Post added at 07:18 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:15 PM ----------

Chop shop need to buy whole turbine together if not mistaken....:smokin:

Ok bro, will try to look around or last choice, weld it.
 
Ok bro. Noted. Contemplating on changing to tubular manifold but i really love the quick spooling of OEM cast manifold.
currently more on saving cost approach. Thks.

---------- Post added at 07:18 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:15 PM ----------



Ok bro, will try to look around or last choice, weld it.

Yours is the original cast iron one? Seems my mechanic say welding won't last....:banghead:
 
welding cast iron can be done, if there is a sifu know his trade.
But wrongly weld, the crack will become a hole....
 
Ok bro. Noted. Contemplating on changing to tubular manifold but i really love the quick spooling of OEM cast manifold.
currently more on saving cost approach. Thks.

---------- Post added at 07:18 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:15 PM ----------



Ok bro, will try to look around or last choice, weld it.

Actually, the equal length tubular manifold should spool the turbo better than the stock one as far as I know. It is well worth the money for the long run.
 
welding cast iron can be done, if there is a sifu know his trade.
But wrongly weld, the crack will become a hole....

Ya bro, definately agree with you

---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:12 PM ----------

Actually, the equal length tubular manifold should spool the turbo better than the stock one as far as I know. It is well worth the money for the long run.

Oh. What i read was OEM is the best set up for fast spoling but will loose the top end. The tubular is good for mid and top.
 
Ya bro, definately agree with you

---------- Post added at 09:13 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:12 PM ----------



Oh. What i read was OEM is the best set up for fast spoling but will loose the top end. The tubular is good for mid and top.

Both have advantages. This link explain better than I could :)
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/log_style_vs_equal_length_manifolds
 

Similar threads

New Posts

Posts refresh every 5 minutes




Search

Online now

Enjoying Zerotohundred?

Log-in for an ad-less experience