Rotary Engine no good lah

[coolblue]

i'm coolblue la ,

tuning are base on airfuel ratio , not too lean or not too rich ,
if you have stock ecu the air fuel ratio normally not perfect ,
so normally they tune down the fuel because of too rich ,

the best if to do it at dyno , use a wideband sensor a/f ratio meter ,

anyone can do tuning if he has a knollege to tune a ecu base on a/f ratio ,

 

[aiM]

FD3S full tank = 20 Gal, or 76 litre. So, full tank = RM 122.36. Fuel consumption at highway, maintain RPM 3000, 140 km/h without boost is about 30 cent per km. so, you can make 407.87 km per full tank, please note that my engine is 13B-rew earlier model, 255kW. city driving is diffrent, you can calculate around 45 cent per km with a little bit of boost :) if you wanna get better fuel consumption, buy a kancil. RM 20 can stand for a week. please dont compare a sport car with a standard car. Rotary for LIFE~!!

 

[endless551]

i'm coolblue la ,

tuning are base on airfuel ratio , not too lean or not too rich ,
if you have stock ecu the air fuel ratio normally not perfect ,
so normally they tune down the fuel because of too rich ,

the best if to do it at dyno , use a wideband sensor a/f ratio meter ,

anyone can do tuning if he has a knollege to tune a ecu base on a/f ratio ,

right...

 

[phat7]

i'm coolblue la ,

tuning are base on airfuel ratio , not too lean or not too rich ,
if you have stock ecu the air fuel ratio normally not perfect ,
so normally they tune down the fuel because of too rich ,

the best if to do it at dyno , use a wideband sensor a/f ratio meter ,

anyone can do tuning if he has a knollege to tune a ecu base on a/f ratio ,

what i would like to know is what experience you have garnered and from where. i run a fully progammable fuel controller and have set a/f at optimum level + safety buffer. Of course this was done on dyno.It is not so easy to tune a/f as on our fd's at least you have to iron out lean mixtures during transition. What kind of a/f readings are you gettng on idle? at boost? what is your inj duty cycle? What kinds of mods have you had done on the fd to achieve said fuel consumption? I am just picking your brains as this will allow other RE members to understand the importance of A/F ratios which is what in many cases causes the engine to knock and we all know under boost knocking=blown engine. Kindly share.

 

[coolblue]

what i would like to know is what experience you have garnered and from where. i run a fully progammable fuel controller and have set a/f at optimum level + safety buffer. Of course this was done on dyno.It is not so easy to tune a/f as on our fd's at least you have to iron out lean mixtures during transition. What kind of a/f readings are you gettng on idle? at boost? what is your inj duty cycle? What kinds of mods have you had done on the fd to achieve said fuel consumption? I am just picking your brains as this will allow other RE members to understand the importance of A/F ratios which is what in many cases causes the engine to knock and we all know under boost knocking=blown engine. Kindly share.

gain from knollege and see exprieces tunes does that ,
cruising low throttle level ( of course if you press extra pedal the boost will come ) ,
they should be arounds 14 to 14.8:1 a/f ratio ,

If you power the car for sure you need more fuel ,
so depends on what boost that you run , different turbo different setup ,

if stock turbine 0.7bar boost are different from big turbo 0.7bar ,
the pressure level are the same but the flow are different ,

if stock turbine should get set around 11.5 ~ 12.0:1 a/f ratio .


you check around www.rx7club.com or www.nopistons.com they have alot of guides for you get your setup done up .

beside that you dont need to really play with the ignition timing , if they preset from factory they should runs well ,

 

[coolblue]

FD3S full tank = 20 Gal, or 76 litre. So, full tank = RM 122.36. Fuel consumption at highway, maintain RPM 3000, 140 km/h without boost is about 30 cent per km. so, you can make 407.87 km per full tank, please note that my engine is 13B-rew earlier model, 255kW. city driving is diffrent, you can calculate around 45 cent per km with a little bit of boost :) if you wanna get better fuel consumption, buy a kancil. RM 20 can stand for a week. please dont compare a sport car with a standard car. Rotary for LIFE~!!

45cents for a KM is really drink fuel la ,

i think you better retune your ecu with a Emanage or a programable Ecu ,

that will save you alot of $$$ ,

 

[aiM]

45cents for a KM is really drink fuel la ,

i think you better retune your ecu with a Emanage or a programable Ecu ,

that will save you alot of $$$ ,

hahah... if trafic jam, your car move really slow right? but engine still running, that's why i said 45 cent per km, with max speed of 10 km/h :)

 

[heavenz]

I've mod a fc with a fuel consumption like around 400~420km per tank of $80 bucks ,
reasonable?

erm, how can u go 400-420 in 80bucks sumore modded? Or is it i misunderstand the currency of our money....is it rm or $?? My car can only go 260-280kmh in rm80 per tank and my car is not modded. Is there something wrong wif my car or something not rite wif ur car?

 

[coolblue]

before fuel hike .. when it was $1.52 per Litre

 

[phat7]

coolblue i'm still baffled with your fc figures. FC3S with what mods? What kind of af value you running? I can get 500 on highway with full tank but thats constant speed of 110-120kmh. What ecu the car running?

 

[coolblue]

coolblue i'm still baffled with your fc figures. FC3S with what mods? What kind of af value you running? I can get 500 on highway with full tank but thats constant speed of 110-120kmh. What ecu the car running?

if you have 500km on full tank not bad la ,
average afr around 14 to 14.5:1 cruising ,
the car i help my friend to mod ,

setup pretty heavy also la ,
using australian ecu ,

actaully what is your goal ? i think your setting are pretty good also la ,
full tank can run 500 ,

 

[skycaptain]

cooL

dude, no offence taken. ANyway, she did ask as FC was 1 of her considerations as she's doin quite a bit of travelling due to the nature of her job.

Anyway, how much does it cost for full tank with current petrol prices? give or take a little.

thanks again.[/QUOTE

i owned a fc, current pertol price for full tank is around RM100. From cheras to kl it costs me around RM10. So u better reconsider since she needs to travel, in addition, FC is a bit different compare to jazz,not as easy to control as honda jazz. But of course it's cool if a girl drives RX~!!

 

[DRFT_240sx]

gain from knollege and see exprieces tunes does that ,
cruising low throttle level ( of course if you press extra pedal the boost will come ) ,
they should be arounds 14 to 14.8:1 a/f ratio ,

If you power the car for sure you need more fuel ,
so depends on what boost that you run , different turbo different setup ,

if stock turbine 0.7bar boost are different from big turbo 0.7bar ,
the pressure level are the same but the flow are different ,

if stock turbine should get set around 11.5 ~ 12.0:1 a/f ratio .


you check around www.rx7club.com or www.nopistons.com they have alot of guides for you get your setup done up .

beside that you dont need to really play with the ignition timing , if they preset from factory they should runs well ,

i would acknowledge and chip in a little about tuning , a/f ratio eventhough the easiest to play around it is the least important thing in tuning.

the biggest role i would think is ignition timing. its a blackart and usually ignition timing would be set first then only a/f ratio. gosh i dont know how to put it in words and i know a lot of great tuners out there hiding their secret as well is a balance of combustion temp , exhaust gas temp from the difference of ignition timing and a/f ratio.

it's not as simple as u say it is.....

 

[coolblue]

i would acknowledge and chip in a little about tuning , a/f ratio eventhough the easiest to play around it is the least important thing in tuning.

the biggest role i would think is ignition timing. its a blackart and usually ignition timing would be set first then only a/f ratio. gosh i dont know how to put it in words and i know a lot of great tuners out there hiding their secret as well is a balance of combustion temp , exhaust gas temp from the difference of ignition timing and a/f ratio.

it's not as simple as u say it is.....

in rotary world ... ignition timing will not play a important role in horsepower ,
i never see a tuner that try on ignition timing first and finish by the a/f ,
maybe the other way in your side .....

most ignition timing is set conservertive or safe level before they start tuning with a/f ,
after they happy with the a/f level , they will normall try to tune on the ignition to squeez out last power that possible crank out ,

a regular fill of gasoline wont able to make impressive horsepower , but for many ppl that is good enough ,
thats why americans always get higher WHP because they use race fuel ,

when you have race fuel , timing will be the issue to get power ,

as i know , Exprience tuners dont use EGT for referance , because they already know their tuning range or limit for a engine or rotary will likely to take it ,


it's just a guide from my knollege , no offence ,

 

[coolblue]

I really feel it's simple , because it crank out 415whp on 0.9bar boost ,