Rim weight

Mar 13, 2009
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thats the thing..im not really going for the looks if just want the looks, i wudnt have asked all these questions =p..hehe..btw,the weight written on the rim, is that the weight of the rim or is that the physical weight a rim can withstand?



the SSr type-c is 3.6kg for 15"x6 rim.. btw,how light is lightweight to you?..anyway,my car is stiffen my ultra racing bar top/bottom front/rear and im using brand new GAB..so yea..not feeling safe is because of the grip i guess :biggrin:
I think sometimes stiffen the car too much on absorbers, and roll bars will make the car feel more unsafe, the roll bars are use to prevent the body from deforming while cornering. stiff absorbers do give a more stable ride as it prevent the car from rolling so much, stiffening meaning lesser vibration absorption. when u drive on a rough road then u will feel the vibration directly from the steering and this may gives us a feeling of unsafe.

Correct me if im wrong.
 
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frank118

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My bad experience was that I changed my shocks and tuned it to original rims and then changed to light alloys, the ride suffered. It was like riding on a bronco horse..

So, i guess, if there is a drastic change in rim wieght and size, get them rims first.
 

joshua7paul

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I think sometimes stiffen the car too much on absorbers, and roll bars will make the car feel more unsafe, the roll bars are use to prevent the body from deforming while cornering. stiff absorbers do give a more stable ride as it prevent the car from rolling so much, stiffening meaning lesser vibration absorption. when u drive on a rough road then u will feel the vibration directly from the steering and this may gives us a feeling of unsafe.

Correct me if im wrong.
to a certain extend ur right bro..but take for example proton..proton as weak chassis..not as tough as japanese rides..so when we use to stiff absorbers the dampening pressure n tension is actually quite hard on the body, there are certain cases where the body 'koyak'...hence use bars like ultra racing to tighten them..btw..my rides is ok..it suits my kinda of driving..cos i like to speed n layan corner..but yes i admit..comfort wise..i dun have it..got la abit..if wan comfort dont go full adjustable.. =)


My bad experience was that I changed my shocks and tuned it to original rims and then changed to light alloys, the ride suffered. It was like riding on a bronco horse..

So, i guess, if there is a drastic change in rim wieght and size, get them rims first.
yes yes..diff rims..diff height..car performs diff =)..btw..what shocks are u using?..
 

FVel

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rim that are too light..isnt that not safe for our malaysian road?..hehe
Go for the lightest rims you can afford. They benefit your car's handling because a lighter rim reduces the unsprung mass on your car.

Forged rims are lighter than cast but also stonger by virtue of being forged. Cast rims are heavier but also weaker and softer. When cast wheels fail, they tend to bend and distort, whereas when forge wheel fails, they tend to shatter. You shouldn't be put off by that though. All in all, a forge wheel is far superior and a better choice than cast wheels if you can afford them.

What that other poster said about a forged rim like Te-37s standing up to pot-holes has an element of truth in it since they are so much stronger than cast wheels. Of course you don't purposely aim your car to potholes, since that will mess-up your suspension if you do it on a regular basis. It's just that if you happen to run a pothole hard, the likelihood that a cast rim will be bent is high.

A lot of SSR rims (I'm not sure of their latest premium range) are made using their propreitory process which falls somewhere in between cast and forge. They call it 'semi-forged' or something like that. Slightly heavier, cheaper but still very desrirable high quality rims. Over the years, SSR has significantly closed the gap to the forged rims with their semi-forged rims, so the differences are nominal and very much less than what they were earlier but still competitive in terms of pricing. You won't go wrong choosing SSR or the more traditional forged wheels such as Ray's Te-37.

Just shop around. There are still very nice 2nd hand forged wheels to be had if you are patient.
 

joshua7paul

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to me 3+kg is as light as it gets...

at that price it always be worth it...and resale value also doesnt drop far off the pruchase price.unless you damage it
just checked

SSR type C 16" 114.3 - 4k..with kumho tyres
TE37 16" 114.3 - 3.8k with re001
 

joshua7paul

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Guys how to know if Enkei RPF-1 is original japan?.. the word enkei is supposed to be painted or sticker?..
 

AD_EG

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i too am in love with the RPF1 Gold rim...i think its a sticker bro...i saw a couple ori from japan with sticker not engraved or painted...

SSR type c also chun..Advan RG also nice..

I feel TE37 price is quite ok...compared to other rims...somemore..the bronze version is seriously nice...Like Ragamaster 15" crazy wei the price...Advan Rg also...haizzz...
 

joshua7paul

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i too am in love with the RPF1 Gold rim...i think its a sticker bro...i saw a couple ori from japan with sticker not engraved or painted...

SSR type c also chun..Advan RG also nice..

I feel TE37 price is quite ok...compared to other rims...somemore..the bronze version is seriously nice...Like Ragamaster 15" crazy wei the price...Advan Rg also...haizzz...
thnx bro..confirmed mine is ori ed =)..its really light.according to the shop...the lightest is SSR type-c then TE37 then RPF-1...but i love my rpf-1 man!..it looks small..cos the lips are thick..hehe..planning to get it done into gunmetal ..hehe
 

AD_EG

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thnx bro..confirmed mine is ori ed =)..its really light.according to the shop...the lightest is SSR type-c then TE37 then RPF-1...but i love my rpf-1 man!..it looks small..cos the lips are thick..hehe..planning to get it done into gunmetal ..hehe
bro !!! you got that rim ???!? how much ?Color?? 15" ? or 16" ? can post a pic pleaseeeeeeeeeee :bawling:

why repaint ?
 

GT_AUTO

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i'm still looking for 17'' rpf-1.i like the wheel.currently using gold rg2.i like the rpf-1 design.
 

frank118

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If the imitation rims looks so much like the real one...doesnt it make sense to pay much less for them (since I cant afford the ori)..instead of going for taiwan made ones???
 

AD_EG

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they might look alike bro, but im ASSuming that the quality or the durability of the rim is definitly questionable....meaning to say ..you might end up saving 500-900 for the rims...but assuming if you were to hit a pothole hard enough to crack it...its gone for good...however an ori one could have survived that same hit...thats just my assumption...
 

frank118

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I guess you're right...considering those factors...i bet if i could afford them..i would be driving like 50kmh and head on the windshield looking out for pot holes.
 

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