Review: Bosch Engine Oil - Premium X7 5W40

[drummydrew]

If so, I think I should just stick to FS for the next oil change.

goooo for it, feeeel the difference!

 

[RENESIS VIII]

goooo for it, feeeel the difference!

I did felt a slight difference when I changed from 10W-40 SS to 5W-40 FS while sticking to the same brand, Bardhal. For the next change, I'll probably switch to a different brand and see how that goes.

 

[vr2turbo]

Actually, changing between FS and SS won't make much difference is it? One thing I heard about FS is that their oil change interval is longer.

Just because the oil is more expensive people think they can last longer. The oil clean the engine that is why they turn dark. The additives do break down. The only difference between FS and SS and/or Mineral is the oil base. Group 5 FS are Ester base, Group 4 is PAO, Group 3 is hydrocrack crude oil, Group 2 is SS and 1 mineral

---------- Post added at 06:05 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:04 PM ----------

I did felt a slight difference when I changed from 10W-40 SS to 5W-40 FS while sticking to the same brand, Bardhal. For the next change, I'll probably switch to a different brand and see how that goes.

You want lighter engine feel can try 5w-30......lol

 

[drummydrew]

Just because the oil is more expensive people think they can last longer. The oil clean the engine that is why they turn dark. The additives do break down. The only difference between FS and SS and/or Mineral is the oil base. Group 5 FS are Ester base, Group 4 is PAO, Group 3 is hydrocrack crude oil, Group 2 is SS and 1 mineral

if oil are categorized in this segment, does that mean my practice has been wrong all awhile? should i be keeping the change intervals ~5000KM regardless of FS/SS/M?? :hmmmm:

 

[marsha1l_v6]

only thing difference i notice on my decades old engine is no tappet during cold startup and slightly better mileage since i fill up by liter. shell SS 10-40 to molygen 5-40 FS. running it 1k mark..still green color EO.

 

[RENESIS VIII]

Just because the oil is more expensive people think they can last longer. The oil clean the engine that is why they turn dark. The additives do break down. The only difference between FS and SS and/or Mineral is the oil base. Group 5 FS are Ester base, Group 4 is PAO, Group 3 is hydrocrack crude oil, Group 2 is SS and 1 mineral

---------- Post added at 06:05 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 06:04 PM ----------



You want lighter engine feel can try 5w-30......lol

I din't plan to drag too long for oil change interval. 5000 to 7000km interval will do.

5W-30 I think is not suitable for my engine. I heard now cars like Axia, Bezza uses 0W-20.

 

[vr2turbo]

if oil are categorized in this segment, does that mean my practice has been wrong all awhile? should i be keeping the change intervals ~5000KM regardless of FS/SS/M?? :hmmmm:

That is the problem, you ask oil company, they ask you follow car manufacturer recommendation......lol

To what I know, some prolong especially like conti cars that have 5L or more for engine oil capacity

---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------

only thing difference i notice on my decades old engine is no tappet during cold startup and slightly better mileage since i fill up by liter. shell SS 10-40 to molygen 5-40 FS. running it 1k mark..still green color EO.

My VR used to run 5w-50, 10w-60, then 5w-40. I tried 5w-30 but when warm up too noisy then I tried Diesel EO for flush, but when I poured that in my engine, it was much more quiet, so instead of using as flush, I use as my EO. Now running 15w-40 diesel oil but with S rating for petrol, and is so much cheaper RM90 for 7L....

 

[marsha1l_v6]

That is the problem, you ask oil company, they ask you follow car manufacturer recommendation......lol

To what I know, some prolong especially like conti cars that have 5L or more for engine oil capacity

---------- Post added at 09:22 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:19 PM ----------



My VR used to run 5w-50, 10w-60, then 5w-40. I tried 5w-30 but when warm up too noisy then I tried Diesel EO for flush, but when I poured that in my engine, it was much more quiet, so instead of using as flush, I use as my EO. Now running 15w-40 diesel oil but with S rating for petrol, and is so much cheaper RM90 for 7L....

DIesel EO..?care to share? hehehe

 

[vr2turbo]

DIesel EO..?care to share? hehehe

Actually have been following some users in other forums for many years already. Most are using Caltex delo 400 and to economize they even buy 18L barrels.
Diesel oil have for diesel engine only and rated C. Latest I think is CI, but I look for those rated for diesel and petrol, means C and S rated. Was at UMW warehouse sale last year saw the diesel oil 15w-40 so initially thought of using as a flush. This oil rated CH and SL and 7L bottle selling around RM80. After I pour that in, my engine was running quieter. My Mitsu hydraulic valve most of the time can hear the tappet clicking away, but with this oil it was way less. So since engine is also old already just carry on using.....

 

[marsha1l_v6]

Actually have been following some users in other forums for many years already. Most are using Caltex delo 400 and to economize they even buy 18L barrels.
Diesel oil have for diesel engine only and rated C. Latest I think is CI, but I look for those rated for diesel and petrol, means C and S rated. Was at UMW warehouse sale last year saw the diesel oil 15w-40 so initially thought of using as a flush. This oil rated CH and SL and 7L bottle selling around RM80. After I pour that in, my engine was running quieter. My Mitsu hydraulic valve most of the time can hear the tappet clicking away, but with this oil it was way less. So since engine is also old already just carry on using.....

ooo, i thought you were using diesel as EO. Since you were flushing the engine,my thought were diesel fuel instead of EO.

I guess diesel EO should be ok, have not take a look into it, but hows the engine behave at long distance travel/high temp application?

I did heard there are dragster using cooking oil as EO during drag event. After that revert to normal EO. Engine survive though.:hmmmm:

 

[vr2turbo]

ooo, i thought you were using diesel as EO. Since you were flushing the engine,my thought were diesel fuel instead of EO.

I guess diesel EO should be ok, have not take a look into it, but hows the engine behave at long distance travel/high temp application?

I did heard there are dragster using cooking oil as EO during drag event. After that revert to normal EO. Engine survive though.:hmmmm:

Diesel fuel can add a bit to petrol but not to clean engine loh....hhahaha

Diesel EO if rate C only I think better not use...lol

 

[sweelt]

uncle VR, oil filter ? same as usual one...i might try diesel oil, look interesting

 

[Jac83]

SS EO taking a drag to 12k km mileage and beyond, claimed to be still 'working great'.

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4192241

Makes me wonder why my previously used EO Synthetic Blend LM Toptec 4100 5w40 and FS Motul H-Tech 100 plus 5w30 doesn't even last 7k km mileage lol.

 

[RENESIS VIII]

SS EO taking a drag to 12k km mileage and beyond, claimed to be still 'working great'.

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/4192241

Makes me wonder why my previously used EO Synthetic Blend LM Toptec 4100 5w40 and FS Motul H-Tech 100 plus 5w30 doesn't even last 7k km mileage lol.

Maybe it depends on your type of engine and whether did you use it for track?

 

[Jac83]

Maybe it depends on your type of engine and whether did you use it for track?

Nope no track lol, just city drive, typical na car out there. Using 2gr-fe engine, upon reaching 5k km eo mileage, the buttfeel difference is pretty significant. FC started to deteriorate, engine getting noisier especially cold start and sluggish. Which is why there is no way i can drag on to even 8k km unless i'm being ignorant to the tell tale signs of course haha.