Need help with Alpine Replica V12 Amp

wilcwo2003

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I have a Alpine Replica V12 Amp 4ch and 4 component speakers (2 rear + 2 front) + 1 pair of tweeters (rear)

I am wondering if the v12 amp can be bridged for a 10-12" woofer. I knoe the v12 is not powerful enuff for woofers, but I just want minimal bass effect and not those BOOM BOOM BOOM type of bass.

Can anyone help?
 

kyheng

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I have this amp also, but frankly speaking, it can use for powering coaxial or component set only, as it output is 85w rms at 4ohm. You must know this is a replica amp, not real amp, so maybe the power is less than actual it stated..
 

wilcwo2003

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oldskolboyz,
am using a perdana v6

kyheng,
so far sound wise not bad la .. since ur using it, you realise that there isn't any or much bass. practically i can barely hear them and some music that has bass in it plays terribly on this amp.

as for the power of the amp, i could not say much as i don't think we would know the actual rms power, but if its really 85 rms than if you bridge the two ch together should be able to get 150-160RMS???? I'm not sure la .. just guessing

Anyway .. thanks and anyone who can give help would very much appreciate it.

thanks!
 

wilcwo2003

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kyheng, oh yea forgot to mention i have a friend using the original v12 amp. he also said the same thing "for powering component and coaxial sets" and not for bass, however he did not try bridging it la ..
 

kyheng

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Nolah, I use the amp to power my RF FNX2614 comp set, the bass is nice, futhermore is put on rear, not on front door, if put on front door it should give me better bass.. But this will not happen to me, as I don't want to make a hole on my front door, I don't trust accessories shop's workmanship. When do that time say you will not have lose screw sound problem, after I encounter this problem, they say your car is old already, sure have this problem..
Anyway don't even try to use it for sub if you can bridge it, as I use it to power my 4" and 6.5" also become warm, temp around 45'C, if use for sub it will go higher...
 

Zenn

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sure u can bridge it as long as it is at 4ohm, so look for a 4ohm single voice coil sub, also since the power isnt that high, look for a low rms rated sub, thats easier to drive. loose booming type of bass cant be helped as lower end / entry level subs tend to be that way. tight transparent and musical subs are pretty expensive. a well built sealed box and proper tuning would help i guess...
use the other 2 channels for the components in front (mids, passive & tweets).
 

howiechoo

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erm..i tried b4 bridge it for a 150rms 12" sub...work..and quite nice
 

bryan90s

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i tried b4 for a week then returned it.

frankly is not suitable for woofer even when u bridge it all to mono. it cant feed my twin 6.5" subwoofer in bandpass enclosure.sound lembik.
 

kyheng

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Yarloh, said before already, with 2 front speaker and 2 rear speaker it also can become warm, if sub means sure it can use to fry an egg...
Anyway I use a 2 channel amp (other brand)bridged for sub to test, with the same amp, speakers will be warm only but sub, put water it boils off instantly.
 

wilcwo2003

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well .. all i want is some bass and not those BOOM BOOM sound ... besides too much bass spoilt the music and not good for the ears and heart .. later get heart attack when driving :p
 

oldskolboyz

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So U just need basic system set-up loorr... just add 1pc 8'mid woofer or subwoofer at the center your rear speaker board.. rear speaker connect direct from HU... V12 power front speaker & 8' mid/sub..
 

Kippo

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wilcwo2003 said:
well .. all i want is some bass and not those BOOM BOOM sound ... besides too much bass spoilt the music and not good for the ears and heart .. later get heart attack when driving :p
boom boom is how good is your sub+box combo.
Read the amp manual and see if it can be bridged. If can, hantam la pasang 1 wufer.
 

83cat

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hey, i also have one, it really can't play any base la, no omp, ofcause you can push 12" or 10" also got sound but no that kind of tum tum..
 

Kippo

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seems that some of you are not clear on the items that affects the sub.

1. Amp. output power: It has no bearing on the frequency response of the sub. A sub that move 5mm with 200W & move 10mm with 600W will have the same freq. response. The difference is only the loudness of the sub. So if you have a problem with how not loud your sub is, go for more power that the sub allows. If you change the sub then the freq. response will differ. You cannot make a direct comparison la.

2. Box design : ported/vented, sealed, bandpass (4th./6th./many2 order), hybrid design etc. will affect how the sub will sound. If you do not like how your sub souds then go re-design your box. Which response you want? More on upper end (80~150hz) or lower end (30~50hz)? This will affect how you design your box.
If you like *thump*thump* kind of bass then you need to go for higher Qtc (>1) for sealed box or port tuning higher eg.50hz for ported/vented box. If you like more low end extension i.e rumbling bass (your car vibrates but you don't feel anything) then go for lower Qtc (0.85>) for sealed box or port tuning at eg.30hz for ported box.
So what you like? it will depend on your music taste. Rock & techno (kampai kind of style) will be more on upper end. If you like hip-hop, trance, classical etc. then go for lower end.
A good way to see if you like a particular sub response, go build a ported box but with the round port installed outside the box. Then vary the port tuning by shortening or extending the port length. I recommend to use PVC pipe (3" or 4" so minimise port noise). Once you like the sub response, (this for experience user only) go and measure the port lenght and calculate the port tuning. Use simulation software eg. WinISD or LEAP (if u're rich) and plot the freq. response graph by putting in the net box vol., port length&diameter (port tuning). Now if you want to use sealed box then plot a sealed box response curve and vary the box volume until you get almost similar curve as the response that you like. That will be your base for more fine tuning.

i'll stop here.
 

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