Need help: AE111 4AGE 20V auto problems

[XRS]

Hi ppl,

I'm recently got a AE111 20V 4AGE blacktop (Auto) and it seems to have a cold start problem. More often than not when I try to start the car, it just stalls. Only after 2 or 3 times, the engine runs. What's worst is I have to wait a couple of minutes for the engine to warm up, else if I try to put to reverse or D, it stalls once again. What's even more annoying is sometimes the engine stalls under hard breaking or when I fully tilt the steering. What could be the potential problems? It feels like there's a leakage in power somewhere. Could it be anything to do with the racing thermostat/ iridium spark plugs/ cables?

Also, I've searched through the forum and realised many were having poor low end torque with this engine. Are there any hard and fast rule that I could address this issue? I noticed one of the threads state to advance the distributor timing to 12-13 degrees. My car is running on straight flow pipe and N1 style exhaust.

1.Would changing to a smaller S-flow PIPE (if there's such a thing) solve the problem?
2. Could it be the stock 4AFE gearbox that's holding it back? If yes, what other auto gearbox alternatives are there?

Thanks alot in advance.
Cheers

 

[chinozie]

Idling not so good...
I think you need a throttle body cleaning...

 

[wfhan]

Hi ppl,

I'm recently got a AE111 20V 4AGE blacktop (Auto) and it seems to have a cold start problem. More often than not when I try to start the car, it just stalls. Only after 2 or 3 times, the engine runs. What's worst is I have to wait a couple of minutes for the engine to warm up, else if I try to put to reverse or D, it stalls once again. What's even more annoying is sometimes the engine stalls under hard breaking or when I fully tilt the steering. What could be the potential problems? It feels like there's a leakage in power somewhere. Could it be anything to do with the racing thermostat/ iridium spark plugs/ cables?

Also, I've searched through the forum and realised many were having poor low end torque with this engine. Are there any hard and fast rule that I could address this issue? I noticed one of the threads state to advance the distributor timing to 12-13 degrees. My car is running on straight flow pipe and N1 style exhaust.

1.Would changing to a smaller S-flow PIPE (if there's such a thing) solve the problem?
2. Could it be the stock 4AFE gearbox that's holding it back? If yes, what other auto gearbox alternatives are there?

Thanks alot in advance.
Cheers

I've encounter one time the situation "...What's even more annoying is sometimes the engine stalls under hard breaking..." which was like 3~4 months ago, but after that, everything is fine, the prob never recur .:P * touchwood * ... some told me is the vacuum (leaking!?) causing it

Anyhow, i don't think the problem is due to your (1.) exhaust Piping nor the (2) gearbox is the culprit.

But for your Question 1, if u use auto + straight flow, that will seriously affect your fuel consumption and low end torque.

From my experience, mine previously was similar to your setup (Auto & straight flow)...but found out the car won't 'go' at low end, and fuel consumption was realyl bad (rm60 only fetch about 250km)... then now after i changed to S-flow, things improved.

Anyhow, take chinozie advice, go clean the throttle bodies, and also check your vacumm hoses, see got leaking or not. also check/change your petrol filter (maybe it's clogged).

juz my 20cents opinion.

 

[XRS]

Thanks for the replies.

wfhan,
You're saying S-flow as in S-flow muffler or S-flow piping or both? My fuel consumption is about there as well, RM60=250KM.

Any workshops you guys recommend around PJ area that's expect in the 4AG engine? Btw, roughly how much does it take to do this throttle body cleaning (don't want to get ripped off)

Thanks

 

[pcmoddingmy]

If engine stall when hard breaking or turning, I think it could be your fuel tank. Are you using EFI tank or carb tank?

As for piping, using N1 on auto is not recommended. Better go with s-flow and 2" piping.

Btw, why use stock 4AFE gearbox? Should have gone with BT auto gearbox (A245E). Also, it could be your cables. And why install racing thermostat?

 

[XRS]

pcmoddingmy,

I'm using EFI tank. Noted for the exhaust. I'm planning to change to S flow piping rather than the muffler as it is a cheaper alternative, do you think it helps?

I'm currently on the lookout for a BT gearbox as well. Any idea what's the market value? What cables are you talking about?

I have no idea why the racing thermostat was installed, as the previous owner did the transplant. Could the racing thermostat causing any of these problems?
thanks

 

[wfhan]

Thanks for the replies.

wfhan,
You're saying S-flow as in S-flow muffler or S-flow piping or both? My fuel consumption is about there as well, RM60=250KM.

Any workshops you guys recommend around PJ area that's expect in the 4AG engine? Btw, roughly how much does it take to do this throttle body cleaning (don't want to get ripped off)

Thanks

i mean s-flow muffler, and use back at least stock piping (BT stock) thru original piping route..If u want to explore more u can try 2.2" or 2.3" piping diameter...
for me, now i'm using ori/stock BT exhaust (piping+muffler)..
my FC rm60 = 340~350km, hehehe...
for 4AG engine expert/workshop in PJ i leave it to others to recommend, cos i not stay in nearby PJ...:P

I..... Should have gone with BT auto gearbox (A245E). Also, it could be your cables. And why install racing thermostat?

oh.. now only i kno BT auto gb code is A245E...
ya, maybe that auto tranny cable (donno what it's called).. near the throttle there a it loose, can tighten it a bit (i just did mine 2 days ago)..:)

 

[levin818]

Hi XRS,
Yeah cuci your Throttle body AND the Idling Valve then your stalling problems will gone.
Never use straigh flow exzos for A/T or you will paid more petrol to lost the front torque. Stock exzos is highly recomended.
Use back BT Auto GB dont use others.
All of the above can be found at Goodspeed 019-2248577 (Ah Choy).
You may ask for "MME package" if you have some extra.
Good luck!

 

[XRS]

Thanks for all the replies
So i should
1. Get the throttle body checked
2. Vacuum hoses
3. Change to S-flow
4. Petrol filter
5. Auto tranny cable? (Not sure what is that)

Anything else?
Thanks alot

 

[hitz]

Hi XRS,
Yeah cuci your Throttle body AND the Idling Valve then your stalling problems will gone.
Never use straigh flow exzos for A/T or you will paid more petrol to lost the front torque. Stock exzos is highly recomended.
Use back BT Auto GB dont use others.
All of the above can be found at Goodspeed 019-2248577 (Ah Choy).
You may ask for "MME package" if you have some extra.
Good luck!

Wah Ah Choy got special package now also ar.. Hahahahaha.. Ya why dun u look for him to check it out....

 

[tctho]

Bro Wfhan,

FC rm60 = 340~350km > highway or town use? Can give detail what u hv change to make it 350km per rm60 fuel.

 

[wfhan]

tho,
ok just to share, for mine:-
- roughly highway 60%, town 40%.
- using BT stock exhaust piping + muffler.
- using k&n drop-in filter + trd plug cable + normal toyota plug
- using toyota oil
- using 195/55/15 tyre size
- add-on a FuelSaver magnet (bought form YongFei)
- add-on grounding/earth cable (bought from c-ground)
- engine internals parts + auto-tranny all stock
- advance a the distributor timing a bit by my mech (not sure if that is what it's called)
- drive full-time in 'power' mode (if i use 'manu' mode and drive like ah-pek style, my record was rm60~400km at new petrol price!)
- reduce a bit car weight by using space-saver tyre (toyo... hehehe)
that's about it..
but the most important thing is.. u gotta kno ur car/engine powerband and utilize it well (i.e. for my auto, i play with "D", "overdrive" and sometimes "2" to maintain the rpm range as much as possible during uphill / stop-start / when required torque <- hard to fight the temptation of unleashing the 20v power sometimes)

 

[tctho]

wfhan, Thanks for ur information.

 

[2 Old 2 Rusty]

I feel the car responds better at low end revs (between 1-3k rpm) when both the power & manu buttons are disengaged lar. Have you guys tried it ?

 

[foolat]

one more thing to check, your ecu diagnostic codes.