Knocking after bolt on turbo

[vr2turbo]

Because the tuner are very busy, not able to layan me x_x..
I am using unichip, as I know, there is not much tuner around who able to tune unichip....
Puchong.... Ara Damansara...Sunway... and glenmarie only

Who was the one who did the BOT? They are the ones suppose to make sure it is in order...

---------- Post added at 07:52 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:52 PM ----------

Then I'll suggest either go back to your tuner and get him to better explain clearly why by using thicker gasket, the check engine light willl appear or find other reputable tuner who are able to do it for u. Obviously changing to a thicker gasket(custom gasket)to reduce compression is the most practical and economical in a bot setup. Custom the pistons will do the job too but it will burn a much bigger hole in your pocket and of course being a low boost setup, it will affect your engine response significantly especially during low to mid revs.

Agree with bro. Jac83 the custom job will be costly and defeats the purpose of BOT, right?:rolleyes:

 

[yewly1990]

Who was the one who did the BOT? They are the ones suppose to make sure it is in order...

---------- Post added at 07:52 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:52 PM ----------



Agree with bro. Jac83 the custom job will be costly and defeats the purpose of BOT, right?:rolleyes:

I brought a TIG and some other tools, me and my friend diy it, manifold take very long time. My friend no experience in new car, he only did those evo 3, and did once supercharger a toyota unser.
Its a diy, thats why facing some problems.

 

[peterj]

The knock knock start at 4.5 k rpm

 

[vr2turbo]

I brought a TIG and some other tools, me and my friend diy it, manifold take very long time. My friend no experience in new car, he only did those evo 3, and did once supercharger a toyota unser.
Its a diy, thats why facing some problems.

Then you are responsible....hahahhahha (joking)

I still think main reason is compression too high....

 

[yewly1990]

Then you are responsible....hahahhahha (joking)

I still think main reason is compression too high....

Dun like this larh sifu, young man always full of curiosity.

I`m still trying few way see whenever it works.
Change intercooler, mount into lower grill which is direct air flow.
*Just did custom heat shield yesterday, see how it goes today.
Find another unichip tuner help me do on road tuning.

If still can`t manage to fix it, perhaps I just go and buy a electronic boost controller, and lower the boost.
Or try to thicker the gasket my self.

 

[peterj]

The thicker gasket check light on because of the crank sensor,once the head become higher,timing mark lari sikit

 

[stupidcar]

Bro. Why u play with Almera? I forgot your story. I remember the very tight engine bay in your previous thread only.

 

[ixeo]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. The answer is to install the Haltech Sprint 500, be sure to buy the solenoid valve and let Haltech Sprint 500 do open loop boost control -- even better, get Haltech 1000 and do closed loop boost control.

The problem is NOT fuel quality, it is NOT too much boost...and not any other reasons above.

The problem is... Fuel starvation.
In simple language, your N/A car is in closed loop when boost is coming in.. this usually happens in part throttle full boost situation (1. no closed loop fuel control & 2.non-linear boost control)

The moment you let go of accelerator and mash it to full throttle, no problem, its because the car is in open loop and the stock ECU will spray fuel according to what the o2 picks up (or what Unichip tells it). In closed loop, it sprays fuel according to the table. Stupid piggybacks that claim they can solve this, cannot. The stock ECU is very clever. So you need a full standalone, or a piggyback that controls the injectors directly -- bypassing the stock ECU for fuel injection completely.

To confirm this, install a wideband o2.

 

[^pomen_GTR^]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. The answer is to install the Haltech Sprint 500, be sure to buy the solenoid valve and let Haltech Sprint 500 do open loop boost control -- even better, get Haltech 1000 and do closed loop boost control.

The problem is NOT fuel quality, it is NOT too much boost...and not any other reasons above.

The problem is... Fuel starvation.
In simple language, your N/A car is in closed loop when boost is coming in.. this usually happens in part throttle full boost situation (1. no closed loop fuel control & 2.non-linear boost control)

The moment you let go of accelerator and mash it to full throttle, no problem, its because the car is in open loop and the stock ECU will spray fuel according to what the o2 picks up (or what Unichip tells it). In closed loop, it sprays fuel according to the table. Stupid piggybacks that claim they can solve this, cannot. The stock ECU is very clever. So you need a full standalone, or a piggyback that controls the injectors directly -- bypassing the stock ECU for fuel injection completely.

To confirm this, install a wideband o2.

this one i totally agree....


but maybe the ecu can be flashed using opensource?? maybe....because some modern ecu can do....if almera owner is lucky....if can reflash..sure can reduce a lot of money for standalone

 

[vr2turbo]

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. The answer is to install the Haltech Sprint 500, be sure to buy the solenoid valve and let Haltech Sprint 500 do open loop boost control -- even better, get Haltech 1000 and do closed loop boost control.

The problem is NOT fuel quality, it is NOT too much boost...and not any other reasons above.

The problem is... Fuel starvation.
In simple language, your N/A car is in closed loop when boost is coming in.. this usually happens in part throttle full boost situation (1. no closed loop fuel control & 2.non-linear boost control)

The moment you let go of accelerator and mash it to full throttle, no problem, its because the car is in open loop and the stock ECU will spray fuel according to what the o2 picks up (or what Unichip tells it). In closed loop, it sprays fuel according to the table. Stupid piggybacks that claim they can solve this, cannot. The stock ECU is very clever. So you need a full standalone, or a piggyback that controls the injectors directly -- bypassing the stock ECU for fuel injection completely.

To confirm this, install a wideband o2.

Then if NA injector volume not big enough need to change injectors too.....

 

[peterj]

Then if NA injector volume not big enough need to change injectors too.....

Bro,he gt extra injector dy:wavey:

---------- Post added at 04:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:18 PM ----------

And the fuel starvation are from the close loop,cause the ecu tent to read rich mixture when u boost anf give signal to ori injector to reduce fuel on first w.o.t.... after u w.o.t once,let off and w.o.t again,the car close loop will be open(layman's term) then u will gt the exact tuning from the piggyback.....

---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------

So temporary solution,w.o.t once to open the loop then u can boost all the way without knock<<< my expectation

 

[l2s_turbo]

Unichip cannot control bigger injectors replacing stock, it can only control extra injector.. How many cc is your extra injector? Did you change fuel pump? Fuel pressure regulator? And bro, did your check engine light pop out? I'm a unichip Q user with BOT on my swift.. currently running 0.7bar boost.. I can share bit to you on my BOT adventure.. One more thing i would tell you is that, your stock intake manifold is made of ABS plastic, same as mine.. in long run, it'll create rattling sound like what i'm facing now.. going to change to swift sport's aluminium intake manifold if got money.. hehe.. right now the rattling starts in between 1700~2000rpm... anything over or below no sound... a bit annoying la... haha....

 

[vr2turbo]

Bro,he gt extra injector dy:wavey:

---------- Post added at 04:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:18 PM ----------

And the fuel starvation are from the close loop,cause the ecu tent to read rich mixture when u boost anf give signal to ori injector to reduce fuel on first w.o.t.... after u w.o.t once,let off and w.o.t again,the car close loop will be open(layman's term) then u will gt the exact tuning from the piggyback.....

---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------

So temporary solution,w.o.t once to open the loop then u can boost all the way without knock<<< my expectation

My bad, miss the extra injector there.
Last time my friend play around with bigger turbine add two injector then add manual switch, so when he boost at high speed he flip on the switch manually...haha
But slow down time must remember to switch off, if not over fuel.....

 

[yewly1990]

Bro. Why u play with Almera? I forgot your story. I remember the very tight engine bay in your previous thread only.

Ya, its a very tight engine bay I show u the photo, almost no place for intake piping.
Not for playing, just bolt on for fun, I use it for daily driving, I actually had 1jz none vti to play with, planning to buy a e32 to swap engine.

---------- Post added at 10:00 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:48 PM ----------

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. The answer is to install the Haltech Sprint 500, be sure to buy the solenoid valve and let Haltech Sprint 500 do open loop boost control -- even better, get Haltech 1000 and do closed loop boost control.

The problem is NOT fuel quality, it is NOT too much boost...and not any other reasons above.

The problem is... Fuel starvation.
In simple language, your N/A car is in closed loop when boost is coming in.. this usually happens in part throttle full boost situation (1. no closed loop fuel control & 2.non-linear boost control)

The moment you let go of accelerator and mash it to full throttle, no problem, its because the car is in open loop and the stock ECU will spray fuel according to what the o2 picks up (or what Unichip tells it). In closed loop, it sprays fuel according to the table. Stupid piggybacks that claim they can solve this, cannot. The stock ECU is very clever. So you need a full standalone, or a piggyback that controls the injectors directly -- bypassing the stock ECU for fuel injection completely.

To confirm this, install a wideband o2.

Oh, I does`t have any idea how the unichip go with.
Izzit unichip q+ full controlling the extra injector?

I was regret of not buying haltech 500, the amount I pay for unichip q+ with turbo module tuning and map sensor etc, its 70% of installing a haltech

---------- Post added at 10:03 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:00 PM ----------

Bro,he gt extra injector dy:wavey:

---------- Post added at 04:23 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:18 PM ----------

And the fuel starvation are from the close loop,cause the ecu tent to read rich mixture when u boost anf give signal to ori injector to reduce fuel on first w.o.t.... after u w.o.t once,let off and w.o.t again,the car close loop will be open(layman's term) then u will gt the exact tuning from the piggyback.....

---------- Post added at 04:25 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:23 PM ----------

So temporary solution,w.o.t once to open the loop then u can boost all the way without knock<<< my expectation

Ya yes, the first w.o.t , having knocking problem, after I release the pedal, the 2nd time I full throttle again, knocking gone

---------- Post added at 10:06 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:03 PM ----------

Unichip cannot control bigger injectors replacing stock, it can only control extra injector.. How many cc is your extra injector? Did you change fuel pump? Fuel pressure regulator? And bro, did your check engine light pop out? I'm a unichip Q user with BOT on my swift.. currently running 0.7bar boost.. I can share bit to you on my BOT adventure.. One more thing i would tell you is that, your stock intake manifold is made of ABS plastic, same as mine.. in long run, it'll create rattling sound like what i'm facing now.. going to change to swift sport's aluminium intake manifold if got money.. hehe.. right now the rattling starts in between 1700~2000rpm... anything over or below no sound... a bit annoying la... haha....

How was the rattling sounds like, i feel like does`t have that weird sound.
My fuel pump was okie, had tested fuel pressure, my car does`t have fuel regulator, mine is a return type..

BTW thx for the sharing Appreciate it

---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 10:06 PM ----------

My bad, miss the extra injector there.
Last time my friend play around with bigger turbine add two injector then add manual switch, so when he boost at high speed he flip on the switch manually...haha
But slow down time must remember to switch off, if not over fuel.....

Today after installing custom heat shield, knocking appear lesser, and significantly improvement on fuel consume.

 

[peterj]

If no fuel regulator,it is returnless fuel rail...new cars utilize this design..

 

[Veloc]

You got to keep re-paying for tuning? A reasonable deal should be one payment for a "no-problem" tune. I think you were being taken for a ride.

And by the way, I know our fuel is faeces, but with proper tune, it's no problem to run RON95. Even more, yours is a low boost. I would say your tuner failed miserably.

Stop bleeding money.

---------- Post added at 01:09 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------

I think I will be just compiling and summarising the suggestion given so far, But I guess it will help

Try any one or the combination of these:
-reduce boost by 0.05-0.1 bar
-Try one step colder plug (not lower than heat range 7 for ngk, 22 for denso)
-reduce compression (try using double head gasket)
-Enrich AFR to 12.5 or 13 at high loads
-retard ignition timing
-revert to stock air box and use drop in filter or use a heat shield with open pod
-raise bonnet a little for better cooling
-use a 1.3 bar radiator cap and a sports thermostat (But please keep thermostat)
-If all else still fail, try Petron fuel.

 

[yewly1990]

You got to keep re-paying for tuning? A reasonable deal should be one payment for a "no-problem" tune. I think you were being taken for a ride.

And by the way, I know our fuel is faeces, but with proper tune, it's no problem to run RON95. Even more, yours is a low boost. I would say your tuner failed miserably.

Stop bleeding money.

---------- Post added at 01:09 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 12:59 AM ----------

I think I will be just compiling and summarising the suggestion given so far, But I guess it will help

Try any one or the combination of these:
-reduce boost by 0.05-0.1 bar
-Try one step colder plug (not lower than heat range 7 for ngk, 22 for denso)
-reduce compression (try using double head gasket)
-Enrich AFR to 12.5 or 13 at high loads
-retard ignition timing
-revert to stock air box and use drop in filter or use a heat shield with open pod
-raise bonnet a little for better cooling
-use a 1.3 bar radiator cap and a sports thermostat (But please keep thermostat)
-If all else still fail, try Petron fuel.

Nowdays tuner and car mod technician are businessman, they care about income more than service. This is what I saw...
As what I did is, I was tuning with 95, and the knocking is happen even I`m using 97, and last I was told my mechanical part such as intercooler, open pod location, etc... got problems...

I`m using mechanical type boost controller, 0.6 was my lowest, but I will try to get a electronic boost cut in future.
But plug for my car is quite rare, its same plug with latio, and GTR R35, I hardly found that plug.
I`m thinking to look for another unichip tuner, maybe will go for johor viswork... to do on road tuning...
I will try raise the bonnet tmr, I had just custom a temporary heat shield, and it work well, significantly increase of fuel consume and no knocking so far.
I dun really understand what is 1.3 bar radiator cap, any example for me?
Did petron and petronas fuel really better? I heard a lot people which claiming they are best fuel.
I am currently using either caltex or shell.

 

[vr2turbo]

Nowdays tuner and car mod technician are businessman, they care about income more than service. This is what I saw...
As what I did is, I was tuning with 95, and the knocking is happen even I`m using 97, and last I was told my mechanical part such as intercooler, open pod location, etc... got problems...

I`m using mechanical type boost controller, 0.6 was my lowest, but I will try to get a electronic boost cut in future.
But plug for my car is quite rare, its same plug with latio, and GTR R35, I hardly found that plug.
I`m thinking to look for another unichip tuner, maybe will go for johor viswork... to do on road tuning...
I will try raise the bonnet tmr, I had just custom a temporary heat shield, and it work well, significantly increase of fuel consume and no knocking so far.
I dun really understand what is 1.3 bar radiator cap, any example for me?
Did petron and petronas fuel really better? I heard a lot people which claiming they are best fuel.
I am currently using either caltex or shell.

Plugs on the Almera rare? Should not be, or look for equivalent plugs of other brands but one number colder as mentioned.
1.3 bar radiator cap means the cap holds a higher pressure then the normal ones

Not sure of other fuels but I use Petron and tried Shell. You should really give up on Shell....

 

[yewly1990]

Plugs on the Almera rare? Should not be, or look for equivalent plugs of other brands but one number colder as mentioned.
1.3 bar radiator cap means the cap holds a higher pressure then the normal ones

Not sure of other fuels but I use Petron and tried Shell. You should really give up on Shell....

Almera plug is slighlty long compare to common plug, after market currently only HKS and Brisk have its plug. HKS is about Rm5xx for 4 plugs, I heard denso have it.

 

[l2s_turbo]

Bro, there's another guy in jb that can tune Unichip other than visworks.. If you interested I can give you his contact.. He is previously from visworks.. He is one of the top tuner there before.. Or if you are more keen to spend a bit more to settle your problem once and for all.. I can intro you to a Singapore tuner.. He tuned my swift and had settled once and for all that my friend unable too.. Very nice guy.. Pm me if you are really interested bro.. Since jb and sg is just a bridge across.. Although the money you need to spend is double, but at least it clears your problem like mine...