Knocking after bolt on turbo

KenDiriwan

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Thicker gasket is where you get lower compression because piston wouldn't reach that high for explosion. Did tuner explain why checklight came after using thick gasket ?

About inconsistent spikes at higher rpm, i do wonder his valve spring.
 

vr2turbo

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DId tried thicker head gasket but checklight pop out.
I am searching for place to get custom piston now, some other sugguest me to look for interchange.
Still in progress
Without thicker head gasket the compression is too high for forced induction that is why knocking....:smokin:
 

yewly1990

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Thicker gasket is where you get lower compression because piston wouldn't reach that high for explosion. Did tuner explain why checklight came after using thick gasket ?

About inconsistent spikes at higher rpm, i do wonder his valve spring.
No, didn't explain

---------- Post added at 04:48 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:46 PM ----------

Without thicker head gasket the compression is too high for forced induction that is why knocking....:smokin:
Any idea where to custom lower compression piston local?
 

Jac83

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No, didn't explain

---------- Post added at 04:48 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:46 PM ----------



Any idea where to custom lower compression piston local?
Then I'll suggest either go back to your tuner and get him to better explain clearly why by using thicker gasket, the check engine light willl appear or find other reputable tuner who are able to do it for u. Obviously changing to a thicker gasket(custom gasket)to reduce compression is the most practical and economical in a bot setup. Custom the pistons will do the job too but it will burn a much bigger hole in your pocket and of course being a low boost setup, it will affect your engine response significantly especially during low to mid revs.
 

yewly1990

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Then I'll suggest either go back to your tuner and get him to better explain clearly why by using thicker gasket, the check engine light willl appear or find other reputable tuner who are able to do it for u. Obviously changing to a thicker gasket(custom gasket)to reduce compression is the most practical and economical in a bot setup. Custom the pistons will do the job too but it will burn a much bigger hole in your pocket and of course being a low boost setup, it will affect your engine response significantly especially during low to mid revs.
Because the tuner are very busy, not able to layan me x_x..
I am using unichip, as I know, there is not much tuner around who able to tune unichip....
Puchong.... Ara Damansara...Sunway... and glenmarie only
 

vr2turbo

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Because the tuner are very busy, not able to layan me x_x..
I am using unichip, as I know, there is not much tuner around who able to tune unichip....
Puchong.... Ara Damansara...Sunway... and glenmarie only
Who was the one who did the BOT? They are the ones suppose to make sure it is in order...:smokin:

---------- Post added at 07:52 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:52 PM ----------

Then I'll suggest either go back to your tuner and get him to better explain clearly why by using thicker gasket, the check engine light willl appear or find other reputable tuner who are able to do it for u. Obviously changing to a thicker gasket(custom gasket)to reduce compression is the most practical and economical in a bot setup. Custom the pistons will do the job too but it will burn a much bigger hole in your pocket and of course being a low boost setup, it will affect your engine response significantly especially during low to mid revs.
Agree with bro. Jac83 the custom job will be costly and defeats the purpose of BOT, right?:rolleyes:
 

yewly1990

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Who was the one who did the BOT? They are the ones suppose to make sure it is in order...:smokin:

---------- Post added at 07:52 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:52 PM ----------



Agree with bro. Jac83 the custom job will be costly and defeats the purpose of BOT, right?:rolleyes:
I brought a TIG and some other tools, me and my friend diy it, manifold take very long time. My friend no experience in new car, he only did those evo 3, and did once supercharger a toyota unser.
Its a diy, thats why facing some problems.
 

peterj

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The knock knock start at 4.5 k rpm
 

vr2turbo

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I brought a TIG and some other tools, me and my friend diy it, manifold take very long time. My friend no experience in new car, he only did those evo 3, and did once supercharger a toyota unser.
Its a diy, thats why facing some problems.
Then you are responsible....hahahhahha:rofl: (joking)

I still think main reason is compression too high....:smokin:
 

yewly1990

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Then you are responsible....hahahhahha:rofl: (joking)

I still think main reason is compression too high....:smokin:
:biggrin: Dun like this larh sifu, young man always full of curiosity.

I`m still trying few way see whenever it works.
Change intercooler, mount into lower grill which is direct air flow.
*Just did custom heat shield yesterday, see how it goes today.
Find another unichip tuner help me do on road tuning.

If still can`t manage to fix it, perhaps I just go and buy a electronic boost controller, and lower the boost.
Or try to thicker the gasket my self.
 

peterj

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The thicker gasket check light on because of the crank sensor,once the head become higher,timing mark lari sikit
 

ixeo

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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. The answer is to install the Haltech Sprint 500, be sure to buy the solenoid valve and let Haltech Sprint 500 do open loop boost control -- even better, get Haltech 1000 and do closed loop boost control.

The problem is NOT fuel quality, it is NOT too much boost...and not any other reasons above.

The problem is... Fuel starvation.
In simple language, your N/A car is in closed loop when boost is coming in.. this usually happens in part throttle full boost situation (1. no closed loop fuel control & 2.non-linear boost control)

The moment you let go of accelerator and mash it to full throttle, no problem, its because the car is in open loop and the stock ECU will spray fuel according to what the o2 picks up (or what Unichip tells it). In closed loop, it sprays fuel according to the table. Stupid piggybacks that claim they can solve this, cannot. The stock ECU is very clever. So you need a full standalone, or a piggyback that controls the injectors directly -- bypassing the stock ECU for fuel injection completely.

To confirm this, install a wideband o2.
 
Last edited:

^pomen_GTR^

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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. The answer is to install the Haltech Sprint 500, be sure to buy the solenoid valve and let Haltech Sprint 500 do open loop boost control -- even better, get Haltech 1000 and do closed loop boost control.

The problem is NOT fuel quality, it is NOT too much boost...and not any other reasons above.

The problem is... Fuel starvation.
In simple language, your N/A car is in closed loop when boost is coming in.. this usually happens in part throttle full boost situation (1. no closed loop fuel control & 2.non-linear boost control)

The moment you let go of accelerator and mash it to full throttle, no problem, its because the car is in open loop and the stock ECU will spray fuel according to what the o2 picks up (or what Unichip tells it). In closed loop, it sprays fuel according to the table. Stupid piggybacks that claim they can solve this, cannot. The stock ECU is very clever. So you need a full standalone, or a piggyback that controls the injectors directly -- bypassing the stock ECU for fuel injection completely.

To confirm this, install a wideband o2.

this one i totally agree....


but maybe the ecu can be flashed using opensource?? maybe....because some modern ecu can do....if almera owner is lucky....if can reflash..sure can reduce a lot of money for standalone
 

vr2turbo

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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA. The answer is to install the Haltech Sprint 500, be sure to buy the solenoid valve and let Haltech Sprint 500 do open loop boost control -- even better, get Haltech 1000 and do closed loop boost control.

The problem is NOT fuel quality, it is NOT too much boost...and not any other reasons above.

The problem is... Fuel starvation.
In simple language, your N/A car is in closed loop when boost is coming in.. this usually happens in part throttle full boost situation (1. no closed loop fuel control & 2.non-linear boost control)

The moment you let go of accelerator and mash it to full throttle, no problem, its because the car is in open loop and the stock ECU will spray fuel according to what the o2 picks up (or what Unichip tells it). In closed loop, it sprays fuel according to the table. Stupid piggybacks that claim they can solve this, cannot. The stock ECU is very clever. So you need a full standalone, or a piggyback that controls the injectors directly -- bypassing the stock ECU for fuel injection completely.

To confirm this, install a wideband o2.
Then if NA injector volume not big enough need to change injectors too.....:smokin:
 

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