how to test drive the 2nd Airtrek Turbo?

[biao]

Good luck on yr Atr search bro.

after test drive come back to ipoh.
1st time test drive feel like this car not that power that i imagine.
i pedal till end，the engine no jerk n gearbox ok.
but dont why i continue press pedal n release pedal，release pedal the moment why have ＇tok＇ sound on front engine？

 

[stutzedward]

Cud be engine mounting. Cud also be some bad bushes.

Original Atr turbo is not fast. Coupe with heavy body, worse. So that's why we modify it.

 

[biao]

Cud be engine mounting. Cud also be some bad bushes.

Original Atr turbo is not fast. Coupe with heavy body, worse. So that's why we modify it.

is it becos original，that why the power will abit 'chi dun'？
so lets say is mounting or bushes problem，repair cost high？n easy repair？
now i asking my fren let my drive his stock car feel the original feeling us how？
cos lasttime i sit his car feel quite power d.

 

[stutzedward]

Butt feel is very subjective. Maybe the one u tested has problem cos u said last time was powerful?

Repair cost cost for engine mounting is around 1.6K and all bushes is around 1.5K.

 

[biao]

Butt feel is very subjective. Maybe the one u tested has problem cos u said last time was powerful?

Repair cost cost for engine mounting is around 1.6K and all bushes is around 1.5K.

yesterday i test drive is from used car dealer.
lasttime i sit that car is my friend d，but i never drive b4，just passenger.

 

[stutzedward]

I see. We'll diff car diff health condition. Anyway, stock car is not that powerful like I said.

 

[4gbanger]

stock car only concern FC not power.. when its on our hand, we want both...

 

[stutzedward]

If you really have a stock Airtrek and wish to increase the power 'cheaply', you can actually. It's pretty simple and cost effective. I would recomend the following:

1) Air filter - K&N drop in (+/- RM350)
2) Decat - +/- RM250
3) Manual Boost Controller - +/- RM250

Before that, make sure your car is in healthy stage. Like good plugs, no leaky vacuum pipes and good maintained lubes (oil, ATF, LSD etc).

Stock boost is around 0.6-7 bar. I think it will produce around 160whp. Recomend cranking up the boost to 1 bar, you will be getting around 180whp. That will be really FUN to drive compared to stock. GOOD LUCK!

 

[biao]

I see. We'll diff car diff health condition. Anyway, stock car is not that powerful like I said.

ya i know. but atleast have some feel like heavy pedal then will have the back stick on the seat feeling. but this 1 do not have this feel.

---------- Post added at 08:52 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:51 AM ----------

stock car only concern FC not power.. when its on our hand, we want both...

yup correct

---------- Post added at 08:53 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:52 AM ----------

If you really have a stock Airtrek and wish to increase the power 'cheaply', you can actually. It's pretty simple and cost effective. I would recomend the following:

1) Air filter - K&N drop in (+/- RM350)
2) Decat - +/- RM250
3) Manual Boost Controller - +/- RM250

Before that, make sure your car is in healthy stage. Like good plugs, no leaky vacuum pipes and good maintained lubes (oil, ATF, LSD etc).

Stock boost is around 0.6-7 bar. I think it will produce around 160whp. Recomend cranking up the boost to 1 bar, you will be getting around 180whp. That will be really FUN to drive compared to stock. GOOD LUCK!

oic.. thank you. but what is decat? the air filter sure need K&N just good the good result?others brands can?like works, bmc....

 

[4gbanger]

crank up to 1.2 bar boost n u will feel ur back stick to the seat.. n u cant even touch the dashboard when crank up to 1.5 bar..

 

[stutzedward]

biao, sticking to seat during acceleration is more know as G-force. The more torque your car produce, the greater the g-force. :) So maybe the car you tested is not in good condition.

Decat = remove catalytic converter

 

[biao]

crank up to 1.2 bar boost n u will feel ur back stick to the seat.. n u cant even touch the dashboard when crank up to 1.5 bar..

wow..syiok...but need crank up to 1.2bar, so need mod lot parts? or only use the manual boost controler boost up?

---------- Post added at 09:04 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 09:01 AM ----------

biao, sticking to seat during acceleration is more know as G-force. The more torque your car produce, the greater the g-force. :) So maybe the car you tested is not in good condition.

Decat = remove catalytic converter

so this engine 'enough time' already?
Decat = remove catalytic converter(is the exhaust middle box?)

 

[stutzedward]

bro biao, if you want to crank up the boost above 1 bar, best is to accompany it with other supportive mods. The one I recomend just to reach 1 bar safely.

If you wish to run 1.3 bar, then you need full exhaust upgraded, fuel regulator, intercooler etc etc. WIth retuning, if your car engine is in good health, you have no problems getting 220whp.

 

[4gbanger]

haha.. one more member poisoned.. crank up to 1.2 bar needs fuel regulator, boost controller, aftermarket blow off and re-flash ecu or piggyback ecu (for better ecu mapping thus maintain good FC)

 

[stutzedward]

catalytic converter, first exhaust box after turbo.