engine oil for b16a

[jaapdes]

hey bro's anyone can tell me abt good engine oil for b16a, i read this article on the net. but can't seem to find the HONDA ENGINE OIL around here...can only get the LEV types..Engine Oil for VTEC Engines

 

[achor]

dude, honda oils are actually from idemitsu. as long as it's 15W 40 i think you should be ok already.

tried a few 10W 40. cepat lemau lah. up until 3000km, u'll feel not that much power anymore.

if u want other choices, try eneos la. they sponsor honda F1 team.

=p

 

[orc3368]

get the cheapest ones laaa......can change every 2 months...better still...get those expensive ones pun no use laaa....

 

[achor]

try using motul. then i believe u'll believe in fluid technology =)
Chrono racing 300V should be right for vtec.

 

[zhaf_b16]

ya laa... agree. they're from idemitsu. i'm using the semi synthetic from idemitsu. last time i bought it for rm88. the mineral type is cheaper tho.

 

[dc_vtec]

i use below 100 buck engine oil.. what brand oso hentam saja...
change every 3-4k mileage.
so far so good..

 

[hattech-v]

try motul....

 

[eddie_vtec]

eneos also good...every 3500 change to new one....

 

[SA6YEuro]

usin the rite oil determines the perfomance of the engine esp. when the vtec engages... i m tryin the vtec lev 15/40w now...... ok la..... needs a bit of run in time say around 100km then its ok.... so far i hav touched 700km....

i still find it a bit sluggish compared 2 motul 8100 5/40w..... damn good oil n double the price... full syn.... really free revvin.... try n u wont regret...... y? u never eat rice ah?...... hehehe

 

[hattech-v]

haha.... u using which one? H-tech 100 aa?

 

[SA6YEuro]

hattech, u mean the motul? its the motul 8100 synergie... got 3 types.... the 10/40w, 5/40w n 0/40w ester..... 5/40w is good n mahal enuff..... hehehe

now usin idemitsu's vtec lev semi syn 15/40w to clean up the engine..... hehehe.... spare part shop fella ask me 2 try it out 4 feed back purposes..... u caya tak? b4 i run in this oil.... vtec open 200rpm later n oredi warm up leh....

Huh? macam nie pun boleh ka??

 

[shiroitenshi]

hmm.. just wondering about these oils ah... from what I've studied..

The numbers with the 'w' at the end, like SAE-10/40W means the viscosity, or the thickness.. grease is an oil also, but the viscosity is probably very very high.

the number at the beginning is the resistance it has towards thinning out due to heat, 0 being the most resistance toward thinning due to heat, with 10 being less, and 15 being even lesser.

So, hearing you talk about the effects, I have to wonder if there's something I missed out.

I know some of the additives help the oil stick to the metal, but other than that... hmm.. I don't know as well.

Anyone tried 0-20w before? Asking, because according to some people, it gives better rpm performance, and vtec kicks in better.. but for me, I don't think of using it due to the fact that in my head, thin oils protects less better than thicker oils.

 

[Enthusiast]

i think the beginning number indicates something about the lowest working temperature.....its the back number that indicates the thinning level of the oil when heated up......

 

[achor]

i agree with enthusiast. i think 0-20 would be way too thin for vtecs. nanti koyak ur pistons and piston rings.

worst case senario, block all scratched.

 

[shiroitenshi]

i think the beginning number indicates something about the lowest working temperature.....its the back number that indicates the thinning level of the oil when heated up......

I messed up the number format lol.. SAE10w40.. ROFL!

Hmm.. the fact is that a lot of the info on the net is kind of dubious.. for example, one I randomly picked up below.

Quoted from a website

The API/ACEA ratings only refer to an oil's quality. For grade, you need to look at the SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers) ratings. These describe the oil's function and viscosity standard. Viscosity means the substance and clinging properties of the lubricant. When cold, oil can become like treacle so it is important that any lube is kept as thin as possible. It's cold performance is denoted by the letter 'W', meaning 'winter'. At the other end of the scale, a scorching hot oil can be as thin as water and about as useful too. So it needs to be as thick as possible when warm. Thin when cold but thick when warm? That's where MultiGrade oil comes in. For ages, good old 20W/50 was the oil to have. But as engines progressed and tolerances decreased, a lighter, thinner oil was required, especially when cold. Thus 15W/50, 15W/40 and even 15W/30 oils are now commonplace. Synthetics can go down as far as 5W which seemed unbeatable until Castrol came up with SLX - a 0W30 formulation! 'Free flowing' just doesn't describe it! It's predominantly a workshop oil retailing at around £10 ($15) a litre, but recommended for use in places like Canada in the winter. The latest offering to this 0W30 engineering miracle comes from AMSOIL.

Hmm.. darn if I can find an oil that actually become thicker as I heat it up..

Just out of curiousity.. I tried heating up a 10w40 engine oil.. and guess what I get? The oil actually becomes thin when I heat it up... So how did the thin to thick come in?

And SAE demands USD 10 for it's technical papers on SJ300 specifications, so unless we get a hold of that.. we have to rely on other opinions, which may or may not be biased.