DIY Persona : Driver side engine mounting

punk

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punk

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Tools:
1. Socket bolt size 8,10,12,14,17
2. Ratchet and long extensionbar
3. Ring spanner size 14
4. Extra bolt to tighten back engine mounting stud

[*]Do this DIY at ur own RISK, Do ur own research before dismantle.
[*]Make sure you have all appropriate/Proper and QUALITY tools
[*]All Bolts should be hand tight first before using ratchet to avoid bolt thread strip



  • Jack abit at the oil pan to support the engine
  • Dont jack kaw kaw, later oil pan crack it's ur problem.
  • Don't use hydraulic jack like i did because ur hydraulic might spoil.:biggrin:


  • Remove All Black,Blue and Green Bolt
  • Blue Dot Bolt Size 14
  • Black Dot bolt size 12
  • Green Dot bolt size 17


  • All Bolt are out
  • When installing the engine mounting back, the Bolt on the green dot should be easily tighten back. If u feel hard to fit in, jack up the engine a lilttle bit more.


  • Let say u want to change engine timing belt upper cover
  • Remove all three bolt size 8




  • The stud came off with the bolt jus now
  • Use the 2 extra bolt, tighten the stud back
  • Reinstall back everything in reverse order.
  • The Endddddddd
 
Last edited:

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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Bro, how many mountings are there? Where is it?
This one more prone to damage? Is there any other way to remove the belt cover without removing the mounting?

Soooo many questions.
All are prone to damage but the one nearest to the timing belt will caused the most vibration when its worn out hence most of the time its the most expansive mounting.

Yes u can do it without removing the cover but will risk damaging it.
 

punk

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punk

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Bro, how many mountings are there? Where is it?
This one more prone to damage? Is there any other way to remove the belt cover without removing the mounting?

Soooo many questions.
Total 4 engine mouting.
i'm not sure which one prone to damage but mine at crossmember can see tear off 40%.
both timing belt and gearbox side mounting like 20% tear but the bump:hmmmm: on the mounting kinda soft already.
For timing belt top cover, i'm not sure if there are any other way but i remove the mounting only. Easier for me to take out and put on later.

2 at crossmember at bottom engine.


1 at Timing belt side


Last part at gearbox side. This part DIY is the hardest but i did it:smokin: ( mine was auto )
 
Last edited:

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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After replacing the mount, one will notice the engine is seating slightly higher in the engine.
In my case, its like 1 inch higher and i can clearly see the difference.

The result is amazing, new car feeling.
I would recommend to change the timing belt side every time u change the timing belt as most of the time, when its removed to do the timing belt and reinstalled back, minor vibration is felt.
However, its best to replace all of them,Why?
Because when u replace only one mounting (lets say the timing belt side), while the others remain. This will put strain on the new mounting ans the engine will tend to pull the new mounting downward as they are worn out. The mounting wont last long, remember that its just rubber.

Same goes if u replace only the 2 mount on the cross member. They will have to endure extra pressure downward as both top mounting are worn out.
 

stupidcar

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stupidcar

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Bro punk, the other 3 mountings got DIY process ah? :biggrin:
This seems damn doable. Gotta consult izso dy. :laugh:

Bro gunnerz, yea I think so too. Now steering vibration still okay.
Just suspect bushing or suspension mount kong.
U own Persona before too?

Btw, our 1.6 mountings are bigger. Saga's cam pulley cover can be removed without removing the side mounting. :bawling:
The gasket/lining for cam pulley cover is brittled.
 

Izso

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Izso

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This isn't for newbies like me. I know how to do for Wira, Persona different process. It *looks* easy but trust me when I tell you it's not easy.
 

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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Bro punk, the other 3 mountings got DIY process ah? :biggrin:
This seems damn doable. Gotta consult izso dy. :laugh:

Bro gunnerz, yea I think so too. Now steering vibration still okay.
Just suspect bushing or suspension mount kong.
U own Persona before too?
Nope, i own a BLM and a Waja.
Its the same basic principle, remove anything that is in your way.
Just make sure u arrange it properly so u know which one goes on first.
In almost all streamline car make and model, the GB part is the hardest one.

On the cross member part, do not over tighten the bolt which hold the cross member to the front end and the sub frame. If u do so, the bush on the cross member cant do its job of absorbing vibration which in the end causing vibration at certain speed.Too loose oso will cause vibration.

Whats the problem with your car?
Funny feeling on the front end can be contributed by alot of factor such as;
-worn steering rack bush(huge tramlining effect, steering fights your input on corner)
-worn out lower arm(annoying kluk klak or tok3 sound, can feel on steering)
-worn out mounting(vibration)
-worn out bush(loose feeling, tok2 sound)
-steering rack itself is worn out(this one is a long shot but can happen)
-worn out tie rod ( kluk klak sound and alignment will always be out and u can feel it on the steering)
 

stupidcar

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stupidcar

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Nope, i own a BLM and a Waja.
Its the same basic principle, remove anything that is in your way.
Just make sure u arrange it properly so u know which one goes on first.
In almost all streamline car make and model, the GB part is the hardest one.

On the cross member part, do not over tighten the bolt which hold the cross member to the front end and the sub frame. If u do so, the bush on the cross member cant do its job of absorbing vibration which in the end causing vibration at certain speed.Too loose oso will cause vibration.

Whats the problem with your car?
Funny feeling on the front end can be contributed by alot of factor such as;
-worn steering rack bush(huge tramlining effect, steering fights your input on corner)
-worn out lower arm(annoying kluk klak or tok3 sound, can feel on steering)
-worn out mounting(vibration)
-worn out bush(loose feeling, tok2 sound)
-steering rack itself is worn out(this one is a long shot but can happen)
-worn out tie rod ( kluk klak sound and alignment will always be out and u can feel it on the steering)
Well yeah, Waja shares almost the same thing as Persona. BLM engine bay wise should be the same as well.

These:
-worn out lower arm(annoying kluk klak or tok3 sound, can feel on steering) mine is kluk kluk from the back sigh. Must change the whole thing right? Can't just change the bush.
-worn out mounting(vibration) It comes and goes, sometimes, its just me didn't tighten the lugnuts properly...
-steering rack itself is worn out(this one is a long shot but can happen) Symptoms?
-worn out tie rod ( kluk klak sound and alignment will always be out and u can feel it on the steering)
What kind of feeling on steering?
 

Izso

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Izso

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mine is kluk kluk from the back sigh. Must change the whole thing right? Can't just change the bush.
Can. But the machine job to pump out the bush and replace with another will cost about the same money as buying a whole new arm.
 

gunnerzz

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gunnerzz

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Well yeah, Waja shares almost the same thing as Persona. BLM engine bay wise should be the same as well.

These:
-worn out lower arm(annoying kluk klak or tok3 sound, can feel on steering) mine is kluk kluk from the back sigh. Must change the whole thing right? Can't just change the bush.
-worn out mounting(vibration) It comes and goes, sometimes, its just me didn't tighten the lugnuts properly...
-steering rack itself is worn out(this one is a long shot but can happen) Symptoms?
-worn out tie rod ( kluk klak sound and alignment will always be out and u can feel it on the steering)
What kind of feeling on steering?
My Waja is the 1.8 model so the engine bay is a little short of room for my hand maneuver.

On the kluk2 sound from the back, it could be the short arm which control the toe in and out of the rear wheel. If not mistaken some call it tulang anjing or satay. One shorter than the other. The most common worn out first is the longer as it can be adjust to control the toe in/out hence putting more stress on it. Its easy to diagnose if the sound is produce consistently. Just park the car at a flat surface, u dont want the person lying under the car gets run over. Let go the hand brake and start pressing the rear end up and down.
Start gently and if the sound is not there go harder. Once u can hear the sound, ask a friend to lie down and locate the noise and also touching every single suspension component. U can feel hard knocking on your hand on the worn out part.
Another way is to jack the rear end, remove the wheel and using a long screwdriver try moving all joint which has bush and see it got too much freeplay.
Yes u can change the bush only or the whole set.

Steering rack worn out
This can happe if u drive like a madman on bad road with corners. U can feel the steering has some more freeplay than usual and keeping the car straight on highway require more input on the steering wheel. Jack up the front end and shake the wheel left to right. In my case there is an inch of freeplay accompany with tuk tak sound. Again, this is a long shot if u are driving it normally.U can use this test to test the tie rod end oso.
 

punk

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punk

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Bro punk, the other 3 mountings got DIY process ah? :biggrin:
This seems damn doable. Gotta consult izso dy. :laugh:

Bro gunnerz, yea I think so too. Now steering vibration still okay.
Just suspect bushing or suspension mount kong.
U own Persona before too?

Btw, our 1.6 mountings are bigger. Saga's cam pulley cover can be removed without removing the side mounting. :bawling:
The gasket/lining for cam pulley cover is brittled.
Got pic but dont have the process.

only gearbox mounting a bit tough cause need to drop the engine a bit. risky part cause i dont have proper jack.
 

punk

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punk

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Ah crap. When i turn my steering wheel quickly left and right, got kluk kluk sound.
But im not sure is it normal for other cars too.

Good idea. Will use a screwdriver to see if there are any freeplay.
not normal for satria wira.

no need used screwdriver.

ask someone to shake the steering wheel left right inside car.
u go engine bay there inspect got freeplay or not.

or when service time, ask the mechanic check for u.
u will have the idea how to inspect it.:idea:
 

stupidcar

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Yo Punk, how are you doing?

Thanks to your guide, I took out the mounting on driver's side to take out the timing belt cover.
I cut out the part where the mounting is obstructing it so I can remove it without removing the mounting already. Hehe.

Also mounting looks rather good still. Good news hehe. DIY changed my rear wheel bearing and rear ARB bushes to PU (feels harder a little) with the help of Izso and Vr2turbo.
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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On behalf of bro. SC,

I took out the mounting on driver's side to take out the timing belt cover.
I cut out the part where the mounting is obstructing it so I can remove it without removing the mounting already








DIY changed my rear wheel bearing







rear ARB link bushes



 

^pomen_GTR^

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^pomen_GTR^

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wahhhhh bzipties braided brake hose! :biggrin:
 

Izso

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The way we DIT is quite convenient.

1 person provides the location and some tools.
1 person provides more tools (some specialty sized ones)
1 person does all the work on his own car with those tools.

:biggrin:
 

vr2turbo

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vr2turbo

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The way we DIT is quite convenient.

1 person provides the location and some tools.
1 person provides more tools (some specialty sized ones)
1 person does all the work on his own car with those tools.

:biggrin:
That depends who is doing. Bro. SC quite season dy and the things done was not that difficult, unlike when bro. issuzark did, half way you, me and others needed to chip in to work on it......hhahahhahahah:biggrin: