- Jan 21, 2007
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This is a continuation of my "Detailing: How To Get Started" thread which covered the basics of detailing.
After learning the basics of detailing, most people would want to move on to what is arguably the most impressive aspect of detailing.
The 50/50 shots of paint before and after correction.
STEP 4: CORRECTION
What is correction? CORRECTION is the process where any defects in the paint are corrected with the use of machines and products. Paint defects can be classified broadly into two main categories: problems inflicted to the paint such as scratches, swirls (which are actually minor scratches), oxidization, etc OR problems with the paint itself such as orange peel etc.
What exactly is correction? It is the process which the defect is removed.
Won't this thin out your paint? Yes it will. That is why the proper cleaning and protection of your cars paint to PREVENT swirls and scratches are the most important steps in detailing! DON'T DAMAGE YOUR PAINT!
For swirls and scratches, this would necessitate using a polish/compound to 'flatten' the paint back down to the level of the scratch thereby 'removing' the scratch. You don't actually remove a scratch but instead remove all of the other paint around it so that the scratch is no longer visible. Obviously there are limits as to how much paint you can (or should) remove and deeper scratches require too much paint to be removed and hence is not practical to remove as too much of the paint may be removed during correction.
Let's get started...
Can correction be done by hand?
My answer to that is, "How strong are your hands and how much time do you have?".
Of course you can use your hands but maybe you wouldn't want to... if its a small area then it is definitely possible to carry out the work by hand but if you were to do it for the entire car then maybe you should consider buying a polishing machine. Machines are just tools that make the work more efficient, faster and easier.
The principles are the same. You need to remove the surrounding paint to the same level as the lowest point of your defect to 'remove' it.
Assuming you don't have super-human hands (fingers, actually) and all the time in the world to compound and polish your entire car by hand, what options do you have?
Most beginners I know always start at the lower end of the machine polisher scale. While this may sound logical, I will explain why this logic may be flawed.
According to price, these are the options available to a detailer looking to get started with machine polishing.
- Orbital/rotary polishers that work at low speed. The type with two big handles and typically a cloth bonnet that is used to polish. Basically has a motor which turns at a slow speed which.... doesn't really do anything...
- Random Orbital Buffer (ROB) typically also used for sanding. Available with a velcro base to attach pads. Oscillates in a random manner on a free spinning head. Very safe to used as the oscillations are random and there is no forced rotation BUT maybe too safe...
- Dual Action Polisher (DA) which are designed for polishing. Bigger 'throw' in its oscillations allowing more correcting power. Also safe due to the free spinning head. Good for finishing off paint as the oscillations do not instill holograms.
- Rotary Polisher. THE MOST powerful tool for any detailer. Ability to correct severe paint defects BUT can cause damage if used improperly. Also, needs skill to finish off paint properly with a rotary.
- DA with forced rotation. An attempt to marry the power of a rotary with the finishing ability of a DA. Fantastic piece of machinery with decent correcting power coupled with the ability to finish off paint like a DA. Downside? Cost! Quite expensive if compared with the other polishers.
You need to know what your objectives are as that would determine which is a suitable choice for your needs.
Whatever your needs and objectives may be, I would not recommend anyone to buy the cheap low speed polishing machines especially if they don't have a velcro base to attach pads to it. Honestly, a waste of time and money.
The next step up, the ROB is typically where most enthusiast start, including yours truly. If you choose to start here, make sure that the machine has a velcro base to attach pads to and that it also has variable speed control.
Would I recommend a ROB? No..... The ROB is good for spreading wax or carrying out some very light paint cleaning but you will NOT be able to carry out any significant paint correction with it and if you're hoping to do this....
You will be dissapointed!
What about a DA and a Rotary? The price points are nearly the same.
For the more serious detailing enthusiast, I would ALWAYS recommend the rotary. It is the most powerful too a detailer has and is able to correct the most severe paint defects. With the proper pads/products and training, safe to use as well. Most of the warnings you read about how dangerous a rotary can be are over exaggerated if you ask me. It takes a LOT of abuse to actually burn your paint. That said, if you do buy a rotary, do me careful as it CAN do some damage if you're careless. Also, needs skill to finish paint properly without holograms.
There are quite a number of different rotaries available on the market. I would recommend getting a more expensive rotary with a lower minimum speed (600 rpm or so for finishing) and also a constant speed drive (the cheaper rotaries tend to slow down when pressure is applied).
DA? Nice to have to carry out lighter correction work and great for finishing paint. The cheaper DA's may have durability issues while the more expensive versions cost more than a rotary. I would recommend a DA as a second tool to compliment your rotary but never as the first as it still does not have sufficient correcting power.
That leaves the DA with Forced Rotation. To my knowledge there is only one on the market so I will mention the product name here. The Flex 3401 VRG Dual Action Orbital Polisher. DA action with forced rotation! Seems to be the perfect combination allowing sufficient correcting power with the finishing ability of the DA.
Quite expensive! But does a fabulous job. Again, this would not be a first choice as a rotary would still have more correcting power. As a second backup machine? This would be my choice over a DA due to its greater correcting abilities.
Basically, if you want to do this...
get a rotary.
If you want to finish like this...
learn how to use a rotary properly with the proper tools and/or get a DA.
If you want more correcting ability with the ability to finish like a DA...
Get a FLEX...
Hope some of you find this useful.
After learning the basics of detailing, most people would want to move on to what is arguably the most impressive aspect of detailing.
The 50/50 shots of paint before and after correction.
STEP 4: CORRECTION
What is correction? CORRECTION is the process where any defects in the paint are corrected with the use of machines and products. Paint defects can be classified broadly into two main categories: problems inflicted to the paint such as scratches, swirls (which are actually minor scratches), oxidization, etc OR problems with the paint itself such as orange peel etc.
What exactly is correction? It is the process which the defect is removed.
Won't this thin out your paint? Yes it will. That is why the proper cleaning and protection of your cars paint to PREVENT swirls and scratches are the most important steps in detailing! DON'T DAMAGE YOUR PAINT!
For swirls and scratches, this would necessitate using a polish/compound to 'flatten' the paint back down to the level of the scratch thereby 'removing' the scratch. You don't actually remove a scratch but instead remove all of the other paint around it so that the scratch is no longer visible. Obviously there are limits as to how much paint you can (or should) remove and deeper scratches require too much paint to be removed and hence is not practical to remove as too much of the paint may be removed during correction.
Let's get started...
Can correction be done by hand?
My answer to that is, "How strong are your hands and how much time do you have?".
Of course you can use your hands but maybe you wouldn't want to... if its a small area then it is definitely possible to carry out the work by hand but if you were to do it for the entire car then maybe you should consider buying a polishing machine. Machines are just tools that make the work more efficient, faster and easier.
The principles are the same. You need to remove the surrounding paint to the same level as the lowest point of your defect to 'remove' it.
Assuming you don't have super-human hands (fingers, actually) and all the time in the world to compound and polish your entire car by hand, what options do you have?
Most beginners I know always start at the lower end of the machine polisher scale. While this may sound logical, I will explain why this logic may be flawed.
According to price, these are the options available to a detailer looking to get started with machine polishing.
- Orbital/rotary polishers that work at low speed. The type with two big handles and typically a cloth bonnet that is used to polish. Basically has a motor which turns at a slow speed which.... doesn't really do anything...
- Random Orbital Buffer (ROB) typically also used for sanding. Available with a velcro base to attach pads. Oscillates in a random manner on a free spinning head. Very safe to used as the oscillations are random and there is no forced rotation BUT maybe too safe...
- Dual Action Polisher (DA) which are designed for polishing. Bigger 'throw' in its oscillations allowing more correcting power. Also safe due to the free spinning head. Good for finishing off paint as the oscillations do not instill holograms.
- Rotary Polisher. THE MOST powerful tool for any detailer. Ability to correct severe paint defects BUT can cause damage if used improperly. Also, needs skill to finish off paint properly with a rotary.
- DA with forced rotation. An attempt to marry the power of a rotary with the finishing ability of a DA. Fantastic piece of machinery with decent correcting power coupled with the ability to finish off paint like a DA. Downside? Cost! Quite expensive if compared with the other polishers.
You need to know what your objectives are as that would determine which is a suitable choice for your needs.
Whatever your needs and objectives may be, I would not recommend anyone to buy the cheap low speed polishing machines especially if they don't have a velcro base to attach pads to it. Honestly, a waste of time and money.
The next step up, the ROB is typically where most enthusiast start, including yours truly. If you choose to start here, make sure that the machine has a velcro base to attach pads to and that it also has variable speed control.
Would I recommend a ROB? No..... The ROB is good for spreading wax or carrying out some very light paint cleaning but you will NOT be able to carry out any significant paint correction with it and if you're hoping to do this....
You will be dissapointed!
What about a DA and a Rotary? The price points are nearly the same.
For the more serious detailing enthusiast, I would ALWAYS recommend the rotary. It is the most powerful too a detailer has and is able to correct the most severe paint defects. With the proper pads/products and training, safe to use as well. Most of the warnings you read about how dangerous a rotary can be are over exaggerated if you ask me. It takes a LOT of abuse to actually burn your paint. That said, if you do buy a rotary, do me careful as it CAN do some damage if you're careless. Also, needs skill to finish paint properly without holograms.
There are quite a number of different rotaries available on the market. I would recommend getting a more expensive rotary with a lower minimum speed (600 rpm or so for finishing) and also a constant speed drive (the cheaper rotaries tend to slow down when pressure is applied).
DA? Nice to have to carry out lighter correction work and great for finishing paint. The cheaper DA's may have durability issues while the more expensive versions cost more than a rotary. I would recommend a DA as a second tool to compliment your rotary but never as the first as it still does not have sufficient correcting power.
That leaves the DA with Forced Rotation. To my knowledge there is only one on the market so I will mention the product name here. The Flex 3401 VRG Dual Action Orbital Polisher. DA action with forced rotation! Seems to be the perfect combination allowing sufficient correcting power with the finishing ability of the DA.
Quite expensive! But does a fabulous job. Again, this would not be a first choice as a rotary would still have more correcting power. As a second backup machine? This would be my choice over a DA due to its greater correcting abilities.
Basically, if you want to do this...
get a rotary.
If you want to finish like this...
learn how to use a rotary properly with the proper tools and/or get a DA.
If you want more correcting ability with the ability to finish like a DA...
Get a FLEX...
Hope some of you find this useful.
even if i'm not physically there, the heart is there:wavey:
