Agreed. Manual override allows us to being in control while attaining our desired driving experience.
Now, I have one headaching matter about my car which does not have a “correct” or “right” answer. It is about the paint job of my car (exterior only).
Over my short span of research on paintjob, I had understood that paint jobs are separated into different elements of work namely craftmanship on metal/plastic bodywork, primer base, color base, and clear coat base. Additionally, to select a paint job according to our personal preferences and desired output would rely on the ability/craftmanship quality and material quality (budget varies accordingly). Unfortunately, I’m not exposed to any form of car detailing with relations to paint (even among my car buddies). This is where I dearly need your help or to shine the light in the right direction for me, fellow gentlemens.
Desired craftmanship/ability/output
(a) Craftmanship that ensures my car parts are not accidentally painted/damaged for whatsoever reasons i.e. wheels, tyres, adjustable, brake disc/calipers, headlamps.
(b) Proper craftmanship of removing/applying primer, base coat, color coat, and clear coat.
(c) Paint job craftmanship output that puts a smile on our face even after an extended period of time (with proper care i.e. polish/wax/coating)
Questions in mind.
1. Recommendation to undergo/avoid of any paint brands / workshop.
2. Estimated price range for medium and/or good paint job craftmanship.
3. Notes that I should take before making a decision on which paint job.
Ultimately, my budget end in mind is tentatively floating at 3k. I don’t mind to stretch a little out in order to have a peace of mind over the next few years, if necessary. Do advise!
Over my short span of research on paintjob, I had understood that paint jobs are separated into different elements of work namely craftmanship on metal/plastic bodywork, primer base, color base, and clear coat base. Additionally, to select a paint job according to our personal preferences and desired output would rely on the ability/craftmanship quality and material quality (budget varies accordingly). Unfortunately, I’m not exposed to any form of car detailing with relations to paint (even among my car buddies). This is where I dearly need your help or to shine the light in the right direction for me, fellow gentlemens.
Desired craftmanship/ability/output
(a) Craftmanship that ensures my car parts are not accidentally painted/damaged for whatsoever reasons i.e. wheels, tyres, adjustable, brake disc/calipers, headlamps.
(b) Proper craftmanship of removing/applying primer, base coat, color coat, and clear coat.
(c) Paint job craftmanship output that puts a smile on our face even after an extended period of time (with proper care i.e. polish/wax/coating)
Questions in mind.
1. Recommendation to undergo/avoid of any paint brands / workshop.
2. Estimated price range for medium and/or good paint job craftmanship.
3. Notes that I should take before making a decision on which paint job.
Ultimately, my budget end in mind is tentatively floating at 3k. I don’t mind to stretch a little out in order to have a peace of mind over the next few years, if necessary. Do advise!
Thank you for being inspired about my journey! I’m excited as hell for my car to roll out from the workshop, which is anytime soon. Once it does, I’ll definitely share it here! Until then and after, you are more than welcomed to join my journey too! Cheers to car modification lifestyle!
sanekit
1,500 RPM
my car is lightly modded saja. and slow too. when i did my swap, the previous autobox already got problems. burnt atf smell and all. i sent it for rebuild and it was driving ok until i start modding the car. the gearbox starts slipping, over revving when upshift and all. sold that gearbox and got the gsr 4wd gearbox. the gsr autobox is way better and i love how the upshift is faster than the previous gb. but this gearbox started to leak somewhere near the 2 pulse generator area. replaced the seals and all but it still leaks. considering to send it for a rebuild but it's gonna cost me around 1.7-2k. haha.
anyway, yes. the autobox response in PWR mode is way more sensitive compared to ECO. like i said, mine in ECO mode is very sluggish like driving a prius in EV mode. it upshift very early at 2.2k, it doesnt downshift even if i floor it. to overtake in ECO i just OD off or downshift to 2nd.
it's good to know another autobox modding kaki. haha. looking forward for your project completion.
i think @Izso can help recommend you a good paint shop. i have a friend but he's in nilai. his price is within your budget and does a good job too. you can search on FB for apworkskalerhaus or whatsapp/call him at 011-52598230.
Initially i tot its the same method used when replacing roof but when look closely i notice there are cuts instead on removing the spot weld.
The thing abt welding is on itself its very strong but welding process can damaged the surrounding metal which causes it to weaken. In your case, thats a long welding line.
Agree, any method have advantage and disadvantage. The long welding line prone to rust also...
If painting the exterior only also depends whether you sticking to original color or changing color. If stick to original color will be cheaper as internally they don't have to spray, meaning engine bay, boot, door jambs etc. If changing color without spraying these area will look funny. Spraying up these areas requires much more work.
Easier to maintain then better spray 2k type paint with clear coat
sanekit
1,500 RPM
most shops cut like that to replace the roof. then they will replace the ribs and spot weld the new roof and apply sealant. nothing wrong in the photos ts uploaded. looks right.
dang. then i can only recommend ts my friend's shop in nilai. haha
Damn, just read through this thread. Another monster being unleashed to the road soon.
Some things to add, stock internal actuator gate is a non-issue. Many people run internal gate and up boost no problem pun, with your engine and turbo, with stock manifold and internal gate, boost creep and spike is a non issue especially if you are running stock boost. Even if you were to up the boost to 1 bar or 1.2bar also should be a non-issue. On the exhaust part, the best exhaust is no exhaust, so I would suggest ditching the S flow muffler for a straight flow muffler, and upgrading the piping to 3" if possible especially the downpipe, go as large as you can on the downpipe.
Damn hardcore betul to soundproof the whole car, and sound system add la subwoofer. No woofer no kick no nice
Works gauge should be usable la, only downside is that it does not have a peak or alarm/warn feature like other digital gauges have which IMO is very important as one of the benefits to digital gauge is to have expanded functionalities like peak and alarm function as when you are going all out, you will rarely have time to check the gauges, with the warning function, once the reading had gone past a pre-determined setting, the meter will scream at you for attention. But since you already bought it, then pakai saja lorr.
Personally I don't really fancy sunroof, but as others had mentioned this is more of a personal choice thing.
On the Blow Off Valve, yes you are right that when using BOV, the BOV releases the air into the atmosphere whereas the stock recirc valve basically does the same thing but it vents the air back into the turbo inlet, post Air Flow Sensor. Meaning if were to use a BOV, the ECU will think the air went into the engine and will inject the required fuel for that amount of air, but instead it is being released to the atmosphere, not entering the engine, but the ECU is still injecting that extra fuel. When this happens, many people encounter engine stalling issue, but if not mistaken in the e-manage I think there is a function to tune this out. So if you want to use a BOV, you better decide early so that you can enable that function in the emanage when you go for a tune.
All the best in your project! Maybe I can go have a look if I drop by Penang for work hehe
Some things to add, stock internal actuator gate is a non-issue. Many people run internal gate and up boost no problem pun, with your engine and turbo, with stock manifold and internal gate, boost creep and spike is a non issue especially if you are running stock boost. Even if you were to up the boost to 1 bar or 1.2bar also should be a non-issue. On the exhaust part, the best exhaust is no exhaust, so I would suggest ditching the S flow muffler for a straight flow muffler, and upgrading the piping to 3" if possible especially the downpipe, go as large as you can on the downpipe.
Damn hardcore betul to soundproof the whole car, and sound system add la subwoofer. No woofer no kick no nice
Works gauge should be usable la, only downside is that it does not have a peak or alarm/warn feature like other digital gauges have which IMO is very important as one of the benefits to digital gauge is to have expanded functionalities like peak and alarm function as when you are going all out, you will rarely have time to check the gauges, with the warning function, once the reading had gone past a pre-determined setting, the meter will scream at you for attention. But since you already bought it, then pakai saja lorr.
Personally I don't really fancy sunroof, but as others had mentioned this is more of a personal choice thing.
On the Blow Off Valve, yes you are right that when using BOV, the BOV releases the air into the atmosphere whereas the stock recirc valve basically does the same thing but it vents the air back into the turbo inlet, post Air Flow Sensor. Meaning if were to use a BOV, the ECU will think the air went into the engine and will inject the required fuel for that amount of air, but instead it is being released to the atmosphere, not entering the engine, but the ECU is still injecting that extra fuel. When this happens, many people encounter engine stalling issue, but if not mistaken in the e-manage I think there is a function to tune this out. So if you want to use a BOV, you better decide early so that you can enable that function in the emanage when you go for a tune.
All the best in your project! Maybe I can go have a look if I drop by Penang for work hehe
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In this case, how can we prevent the welding line from rust? Is there such methods to do so? Hmmmmm
Tentatively, spraying back the original red. Only the roof top would be black. Is the 2k paint material similar to factory color and durability?
Noted on the exhaust piping. Though, i am running automatic gearbox with evo 3 intercooler and piping. Would the 3 inch be a little overkill for exhaust scavenging? 2 bullets and 1 straight flow may sound like the way to go, though my reservations are on interior cabin droning noise. Exhaust fluctuations tone is okay, but droning is big no no for me personally, ultimately that’s my top priority to avoid (objectively, the car is meant for cruise and occasional spirited driving).Damn, just read through this thread. Another monster being unleashed to the road soon.
Some things to add, stock internal actuator gate is a non-issue. Many people run internal gate and up boost no problem pun, with your engine and turbo, with stock manifold and internal gate, boost creep and spike is a non issue especially if you are running stock boost. Even if you were to up the boost to 1 bar or 1.2bar also should be a non-issue. On the exhaust part, the best exhaust is no exhaust, so I would suggest ditching the S flow muffler for a straight flow muffler, and upgrading the piping to 3" if possible especially the downpipe, go as large as you can on the downpipe.
Damn hardcore betul to soundproof the whole car, and sound system add la subwoofer. No woofer no kick no nice
Works gauge should be usable la, only downside is that it does not have a peak or alarm/warn feature like other digital gauges have which IMO is very important as one of the benefits to digital gauge is to have expanded functionalities like peak and alarm function as when you are going all out, you will rarely have time to check the gauges, with the warning function, once the reading had gone past a pre-determined setting, the meter will scream at you for attention. But since you already bought it, then pakai saja lorr.
Personally I don't really fancy sunroof, but as others had mentioned this is more of a personal choice thing.
On the Blow Off Valve, yes you are right that when using BOV, the BOV releases the air into the atmosphere whereas the stock recirc valve basically does the same thing but it vents the air back into the turbo inlet, post Air Flow Sensor. Meaning if were to use a BOV, the ECU will think the air went into the engine and will inject the required fuel for that amount of air, but instead it is being released to the atmosphere, not entering the engine, but the ECU is still injecting that extra fuel. When this happens, many people encounter engine stalling issue, but if not mistaken in the e-manage I think there is a function to tune this out. So if you want to use a BOV, you better decide early so that you can enable that function in the emanage when you go for a tune.
All the best in your project! Maybe I can go have a look if I drop by Penang for work hehe
Would take note on the BOV tuning as the air is no longer recirculated back to the intake. I’ll highlight this to the piggyback tuner during tuning phase. Thanks for sharing!
I’m in Shah Alam, Kota Kemuning. Not in Penang bro. If you want to take a look at the progress and join the journey, feel free to do so bro! If really keen, I’ll share the location hahahaha
Ehh I thought I read somewhere saying you're in Penang haha. If you're passing by Subang maybe can meet once your car is running. No such thing as too big an exhaust for turbo. And you are running a turbo, all 4 cylinders merge at the turbo inlet already, what scavenging?
Can read my build at my thread
http://www.zerotohundred.com/forums...-waja-project-many-pictures-be-warned.466945/
I'm using a large Tanabe Hyper Medallion 3" straight flow muffler together with a large 3" mid box. I don't experience droning, at least I don't think I do. You want can try sit my car and decide if it is quiet enough for you or not.
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