New Tires : Front or Rear

[Waiora_ProTuner]

"cost effective" la.. I didn't say cheaper. If rotating can last longer and really properly utilize the tyre then that's cost effective enough for me.

Question : Would you rotate a directional pattern tyre even if it means mounting it reverse?

there's multiple method for rotating...
front to back, cross, left right...

non directional rotate cross..
directional pattern tyre only rotate front to back..
or cross if take out tyre from rim..
staggered tyre rotate left and right only..
staggered directional need to take out tyre from rim and rotate left right only.

You did say cheaper, then you said cost effective

Front to back, back to front, will mount reverse meh? Only if you do a cross rotating that occurs right. Then got to remove tyre and re-mount.

By right should have even wear on the tyre if everything is normal, for a street car.

it will not..by saying street car i imagine front tyre front wheel drive vehicle..
front tyre doing the acceleration, most braking, turning and have more load..
it will wear off more...

unless....

 

[KenDiriwan]

Previously :

F = Kumho KU36 205/50/15
R = Neuton NT6000 195/55/15

Good corner entry, but waggy tail.

Now switched other way round. Massive understeer, tail steady.

Also, NT6000 in front noisy as hell.

 

[Supra_Fanatics]

Actually got rotate but one time only, when fit new to the rear you rotate the rear to the front mah!..haha

Cost effective or not, both have pros and cons. Most rotate because front wear shoulder and rear wear center. As I told bro. SF if front and rear wear is good why pay for rotation. Most shop charge even to rotate, then if balancing out, you need to balance and quite many I know do alignment also. Like most say last 50k km, means at least rotate 4 times. 2 tyre change you already save 4 times rotation and balancing RM.

Cost of changing tyre is not cheaper, but paying extra like rotation cost more. Change two at a time is cheaper but got to pay twice so is the same cost.

Did mention many times already the pros and cons.
It is more to the safety aspect for me.
4 tyre change you rotate until all 4 tyres bald. Period when 4 tyres bald, is danger period. If change 2 at a time, at any time you will still have two tyres with thread pattern....

---------- Post added at 04:15 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:13 PM ----------



If both sides wear inside, or both side wear outside, like bro. ixeo mention, remove tyre, re-mount them, then cross left to right, so the direction still points forward...

Check recently and in detail, realised front one thread left lesser than rear. Guess time to rotate.

 

[vr2turbo]

Previously :

F = Kumho KU36 205/50/15
R = Neuton NT6000 195/55/15

Good corner entry, but waggy tail.

Now switched other way round. Massive understeer, tail steady.

Also, NT6000 in front noisy as hell.

Bro. Ken, Where you get the Neuton NT6000, never seen before?

Anyway, should use same size for both front and rear then don't have the problem. Some more different tyre brand and model also. KU36 is extreme some more....

 

[ericmaxman]

This argument again?

Knnccbbq. Change all 4 when 1 or 2 is worn.

Enough of story.

Sorry dailou :(

 

[KenDiriwan]

Bro. Ken, Where you get the Neuton NT6000, never seen before?

Anyway, should use same size for both front and rear then don't have the problem. Some more different tyre brand and model also. KU36 is extreme some more....

Am so sorry it's NT5000. Ahah let say ima on trial & error mode.

 

[vr2turbo]

Am so sorry it's NT5000. Ahah let say ima on trial & error mode.

Fuh! I thought got new model......hhahahhahahah

If you in GRA then front KU36 and rear NT5000 then correct mah!......