Guide Line , RB20DET or SR20DET

[jinkl]

Guys ,
im good in understanding engines mostly mitsubishis
im entering the Nissan world soon
i got an old school for transplanting a new heart
I am interested in RB20DET but i find that in the websites in google people PRO the SR20DET more, why is that so ?

Is the parts for RB20 aftermarket parts i mean not available ?
Is the upgradability of the RB20 easy ? i want to create a 300hp machine with this , dont worry guys u dont have to start from the beginning by explaining about fueling , tuning and such , im well aware about it.
What do you guys advise, a inline 6 machine or 4 cyclinder machine.
What are the variation models of the engines, what the best bang of the buck.

 

[stormlcc]

both engines also easy to find cheap parts, it depends on what "old school" car u are using....

RB series are heavier of course, and it will effect the weight distribution of your car, but are more cheaper to buy, SR engines are lighter and the four cyl setup is a good balance for your car

both engines can easily reach 290whp, but to go beyond that, u will need a good piggyback ECU with a bigger AFM and bigger cc injectors, or directly go for stand alone system

and both engine also got lots of ppl who are "PRO" in its tuning and upgrading, so no worries....

 

[gti88]

check out www.skylinesaustralia.com, for more info related to RB engines.

 

[f8.]

For 6 cylinder engines, anything below 2.5L will be weak.

If it must be a 2L, go for the SR20DET. If you like the sound of 6 cyliners, at the very least, an RB25DET.

Just think, all the 6 cylinder 2L, NA or turbo, are there any trully fast ones?
Eterna TT
Perdana V6
BMW 2L inline 6
Cefiro

And the quicker 6 cyliners:
1JZ/2JZ
RB26DETT
E36/46 M3
Z33 350Z
and of course, any 911. All 2.5 and up.

 

[jinkl]

found out that rb20 halfcut is around 2XXX , sr20 is going for 4k+
lots of diffrence in price ;)

FT8:yeah notice the more powerfull engines come from 2.5 n up for 6cyclinder
RB25 is not 2.5 ?

 

[stormlcc]

yeah, RB20 is cheap to run, cheap to maintain, but the torque is rubbish, SR20 cost a bomb, but it's worth it for the easy to gain HP, and the weight is way lighter than a 6 cyl, if u have the cash, just go for it....

 

[BabyGodzillaGTi-R]

I think for F8 the only thing fast is a Forcedindution 8 cylinder
haha.

 

[cmng]

BabyGodzilla..
true..

V8 power !!!

 

[atuf]

really aa 2.0l 6cyl not good.. can't go fast meh..?hmm no wonderla..will up grade soon

 

[skyther]

Hrmmm. Personally I don't like SRs, I'd rather take a CA18 anyday if it wasn't for the lack of upgrade options.

SR20DET - builds revs quicker, aluminium alloy head + block = lighter but weaker, easier to find mods as it was available up till '99. Really depends whether you get an early red top or a black top though, black top has more options but apparently VCT makes it a little harder to work on

RB20DET - more torquey than SRs but still f**k all compared to higher displacement RBs, cast iron block = heavy but stronger (and takes more boost ^_^), was phased out a decade ago so may have difficulty finding mods even for ECCS silvertops.

Both need serious work to make big HP, you'll need bigger injectors for anything more than 200rwhp. 290rwhp "easily achievable" on an RB20DET is ridiculous, most people max out at 250-270rwhp with aftermarket management with a GT25/GT28 on a mild tune. Anything higher needs a worked bottom end and putting that sort of money into an RB20 is plain silly because an RB25 will achieve the same for less. 300rwhp on a RB20 /w a stock bottom end *might* be possible with cams + ~20psi of boost and relatively high compression but it leaves very little margin for a poor tune.

I dunno about SRs, people do stupid things with them but they don't seem to last. All depends on chassis I suppose, for a Silvia/old skool Datto I'd go FJ/CA/SR, Skyline or Ceffy I'd go RB. Stock RB20DET is an impressively smooth drive though. And um, depends what gearbox you're going to run too.

... and V8s sark balls. :_:

 

[stormlcc]

Hrmmm. Personally I don't like SRs, I'd rather take a CA18 anyday if it wasn't for the lack of upgrade options.

SR20DET - builds revs quicker, aluminium alloy head + block = lighter but weaker, easier to find mods as it was available up till '99. Really depends whether you get an early red top or a black top though, black top has more options but apparently VCT makes it a little harder to work on

RB20DET - more torquey than SRs but still f**k all compared to higher displacement RBs, cast iron block = heavy but stronger (and takes more boost ^_^), was phased out a decade ago so may have difficulty finding mods even for ECCS silvertops.

Both need serious work to make big HP, you'll need bigger injectors for anything more than 200rwhp. 290rwhp "easily achievable" on an RB20DET is ridiculous, most people max out at 250-270rwhp with aftermarket management with a GT25/GT28 on a mild tune. Anything higher needs a worked bottom end and putting that sort of money into an RB20 is plain silly because an RB25 will achieve the same for less. 300rwhp on a RB20 /w a stock bottom end *might* be possible with cams + ~20psi of boost and relatively high compression but it leaves very little margin for a poor tune.

I dunno about SRs, people do stupid things with them but they don't seem to last. All depends on chassis I suppose, for a Silvia/old skool Datto I'd go FJ/CA/SR, Skyline or Ceffy I'd go RB. Stock RB20DET is an impressively smooth drive though. And um, depends what gearbox you're going to run too.

... and V8s sark balls. :_:

i think u googled on these info dude......

have u ever, i mean on the real side, ever tuned and mod any of those engines mentioned above.....?

with the right cash and mechanics, anything can be done with those engines, even the RB20det, although 300whp has some difficulties, but it could be done even without a stand alone system, and 290whp is FAIRLY EASY, it only needs bigger injectors (any injectors above 300cc will do) and a good piggyback, and a slightly bigger turbine (slightly bigger than the RB25 turbo for example the HKS GT2510), or with cams and a good flow of air and fuel

and about your comment on the RB20DET - more torquey than SRs, you did google that out didn't u.....:emoticon_U: ????

SR's torque is way better than the RB

 

[skyther]

ROFL. Um, FYI I *had* a silvertop RB20. Yeah ur so smart though, I copied and pasted from Google. Google is awesome, learn how to read a dyno chart then come back and tell me about who makes more torque.

 

[cmng]

RB20 more torque than SR20 ?

 

[stormlcc]

CMNG, u also find it weird about this comment is it???

 

[BabyGodzillaGTi-R]

I thought stock s13 sr20det vs stock RB20DET. Apparently there's more torque from the RB20 on paper.
But in the real world somehow the sr20 has more grunt.
Btw skyther why does v8 suck balls? What v8? Old 3.5 Buick Rover V8?
Ford Cleaveland350? 1UZFE?

Aiyah as far as i'm concern to keep the CMNG tradition going, SR20 is a pariah engine.....Just like what unker doremon says. Lousy and pariah engine. Very Powderfull... Dont play play, better pray pray.

 

[stormlcc]

I thought stock s13 sr20det vs stock RB20DET. Apparently there's more torque from the RB20 on paper.
But in the real world somehow the sr20 has more grunt.
Btw skyther why does v8 suck balls? What v8? Old 3.5 Buick Rover V8?
Ford Cleaveland350? 1UZFE?

Aiyah as far as i'm concern to keep the CMNG tradition going, SR20 is a pariah engine.....Just like what unker doremon says. Lousy and pariah engine. Very Powderfull... Dont play play, better pray pray.

whahahah!!!:X-:

same shit different day eh.........

 

[atuf]

how bout rb20 tommykaira edition..any diff??

 

[skyther]

rofl ok lah, i'll be nice. Actually I'm a noob wif cars but some of your points are pure BS.

*summons the power of Google*

although 300whp has some difficulties... and 290whp is FAIRLY EASY

I dunno what you're smoking, but if I were desperate enough to gain 10 HP at the wheels...

Assuming you already have a pod and exhaust done,
1) decat/gut cat - illegal but if you're really desperate...
2) lightened flywheel
3) CAI
4) bigger I/C - lowers inlet temps, then raise boost to compensate
5) +1~2 PSI boost
6) increase timing + use 98 RON
7) increase compression by shaving head/thinner gasket + use 98 RON
8) port + polish
9) higher diff ratio
10) lightened tailshaft/drivetrain - reduces tranny loss

Pick any 3. I just came up with 10 ways to bring 290RWHP to 300RWHP in under 2 minutes. Most of the above "mods" cost peanuts to do, so how exactly is 290RWHP "FAIRLY EASY" while 300RWHP suddenly becomes difficult?

but it could be done even without a stand alone system... it only needs bigger injectors (any injectors above 300cc will do) and a good piggyback, and a slightly bigger turbine (slightly bigger than the RB25 turbo for example the HKS GT2510), or with cams and a good flow of air and fuel

lol. :shocked:

Instead of pulling numbers from Google, let's try something different:

RB20DET silvertop injectors = 6x 270cc.
SR20DET injectors = 4x 370cc.

You are attempting to make 300HP at the wheels, assuming 20% drivetrain efficiency loss that would be approx 360HP at the flywheel, correct?

Nissan rates a stock RB26DETT at ~280HP at the fly, though most people say it's realistically around 300HP, which I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume it's correct.

So for a stock motor that's good for 300HP, Nissan equips it's flagship motor with...

RB26DETT injectors = 6x 440cc.

Do you honestly think (c'mon, use common sense here) that you can make 60HP more than a stock RB26DETT with injectors that are 2/3rd the size? The RB26 is arguably overengineered and has higher displacement but that's hardly the point given that you'd require at least 18 PSI to achieve 300RWHP. I wouldn't be suprised if an SR20DET couldn't make 300RWHP with 20 PSI. Counting the fact that injectors get carbon build-up over time which further reduces flow rate, you'd have to be retarded to think that "300cc" injectors would do the job.

HKS GT2510 lol, are you quoting random numbers from the HKS website? I believe most people are after the GT28RS for its incredibly quick spool, but hey I'm just a guy who pulls facts and figures off Google to sound smart, wtf would I know?

Any mechanic/tuner who has a clue as to wtf they are doing will know that to maximize the potential of having aftermarket cams requires flexible engine management, ie. aftermarket. You'd require a fuel remap to maintain A/F ratios which a "piggyback" like a SAFC would do, and remapped ignition timing which a piggyback cannot do. Solution? Aftermarket ECU. :_:

and about your comment on the RB20DET - more torquey than SRs, you did google that out didn't u..... ????

SR's torque is way better than the RB

You have an A31 right? I have a feeling you measure torque using your butt dyno.

If you're used to sitting in a RB20DET powered Skyline or a pissfarter Ceffy, then one day you get a ride in a SR20DET Silvia/180/Pulsar and go "holy shyt this thing is fast", no shyt buddy it's 200kgs+ lighter.

I like to compare things using proper dyno charts, not the dyno you call your ass, and since you despise Google references, may I suggest you kindly head down to your local tuner and ask him if a 300HP RB20 makes more torque than a 300HP SR20 with similar tune. Even in the unlikely event that an SR20DET makes that 10Nm @ like 7000 RPM (which is hardly what I'd call "wayyyyyyyyyyyyy more torque") more than the RB20DET, you'll find that the RB builds more torque earlier and has a wider usable rev range.

It's common knowledge that 6 cylinders are smoother + make more torque than 4 bangers, go ask Proton why they launched a Perdana V6 with the same displacement as the old one. :angel_smile:

SR20DETs are far from being sh*t engines, but RBs take more punishment. Didn't someone have their SR20 sitting for a while at the workshop for a rebuild, eh Mr. Cheong? ;) There's a reason why Nissan gave the small farts the SRs and the bigger boys VG/RB, but I guess maybe the Ceffy didn't deserve it. *rolleyes* I'm just biased against V8s, most of 'em can't rev for shyt, ie. GM pushrods. :x I can't say no to a V10 E60 M5 though. :P

Pls lar, don't be so quick to judge and make lame comments like "i think u googled on these info dude....." or "you did google that out didn't u..... :emoticon_U:????." The Internet is a bloody useful resource, if you think you're too smart for Google then I pity your ignorance because it's hardly restricted to a bunch of young "omg i just got my first turbo woot got booooooooosttt?" opinionated know-it-all punks on ZTH and howstuffworks. :emoticon_U: We're here to share and learn, not be some uptight b*stard who thinks he's so leet and can start putting others down. You may have been right about SR20s but even that doesn't justify your remark. Woooooot another keyboard warrior for teh win. :emoticon_U:

 

[cmng]

Woot
RB20DET for 300whp ?
Woot
i love to see a stock RB20DET with Stock turbo push 300whp
but quoting RWKW err more like you from or based from aussie
how much 300 RWKW in RWHP ?

err Nissan Give a big fart on RB20DET i think err since R33 rite ?
i think R34 and R33 all toward to RB25DET not RB20DET rite ?
i am not sure

SR was still under production till err 01 ? no sure
i think RB also same
now both RB and SR, nissan give a big fart on it
so it more like pure bollock engine
else why not they continue it like 4G63 ? err what is subaru engine code aa ?
i heard also the new GTR no more RB.. why aa ?

emm or nissan realise it pure bollock engine and decide to stop it and make VQ ?
i think that time when the what gwai low CEO join and restructure it rite since it nearly went to bankcrupcy
not sure..
care to help ?

i lazy to dig google..

 

[stormlcc]

rofl ok lah, i'll be nice. Actually I'm a noob wif cars but some of your points are pure BS.

*summons the power of Google*



I dunno what you're smoking, but if I were desperate enough to gain 10 HP at the wheels...

Assuming you already have a pod and exhaust done,
1) decat/gut cat - illegal but if you're really desperate...
2) lightened flywheel
3) CAI
4) bigger I/C - lowers inlet temps, then raise boost to compensate
5) +1~2 PSI boost
6) increase timing + use 98 RON
7) increase compression by shaving head/thinner gasket + use 98 RON
8) port + polish
9) higher diff ratio
10) lightened tailshaft/drivetrain - reduces tranny loss

Pick any 3. I just came up with 10 ways to bring 290RWHP to 300RWHP in under 2 minutes. Most of the above "mods" cost peanuts to do, so how exactly is 290RWHP "FAIRLY EASY" while 300RWHP suddenly becomes difficult?



lol. :shocked:

Instead of pulling numbers from Google, let's try something different:

RB20DET silvertop injectors = 6x 270cc.
SR20DET injectors = 4x 370cc.

You are attempting to make 300HP at the wheels, assuming 20% drivetrain efficiency loss that would be approx 360HP at the flywheel, correct?

Nissan rates a stock RB26DETT at ~280HP at the fly, though most people say it's realistically around 300HP, which I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume it's correct.

So for a stock motor that's good for 300HP, Nissan equips it's flagship motor with...

RB26DETT injectors = 6x 440cc.

Do you honestly think (c'mon, use common sense here) that you can make 60HP more than a stock RB26DETT with injectors that are 2/3rd the size? The RB26 is arguably overengineered and has higher displacement but that's hardly the point given that you'd require at least 18 PSI to achieve 300RWHP. I wouldn't be suprised if an SR20DET couldn't make 300RWHP with 20 PSI. Counting the fact that injectors get carbon build-up over time which further reduces flow rate, you'd have to be retarded to think that "300cc" injectors would do the job.

HKS GT2510 lol, are you quoting random numbers from the HKS website? I believe most people are after the GT28RS for its incredibly quick spool, but hey I'm just a guy who pulls facts and figures off Google to sound smart, wtf would I know?

Any mechanic/tuner who has a clue as to wtf they are doing will know that to maximize the potential of having aftermarket cams requires flexible engine management, ie. aftermarket. You'd require a fuel remap to maintain A/F ratios which a "piggyback" like a SAFC would do, and remapped ignition timing which a piggyback cannot do. Solution? Aftermarket ECU. :_:



You have an A31 right? I have a feeling you measure torque using your butt dyno.

If you're used to sitting in a RB20DET powered Skyline or a pissfarter Ceffy, then one day you get a ride in a SR20DET Silvia/180/Pulsar and go "holy shyt this thing is fast", no shyt buddy it's 200kgs+ lighter.

I like to compare things using proper dyno charts, not the dyno you call your ass, and since you despise Google references, may I suggest you kindly head down to your local tuner and ask him if a 300HP RB20 makes more torque than a 300HP SR20 with similar tune. Even in the unlikely event that an SR20DET makes that 10Nm @ like 7000 RPM (which is hardly what I'd call "wayyyyyyyyyyyyy more torque") more than the RB20DET, you'll find that the RB builds more torque earlier and has a wider usable rev range.

It's common knowledge that 6 cylinders are smoother + make more torque than 4 bangers, go ask Proton why they launched a Perdana V6 with the same displacement as the old one. :angel_smile:

SR20DETs are far from being sh*t engines, but RBs take more punishment. Didn't someone have their SR20 sitting for a while at the workshop for a rebuild, eh Mr. Cheong? ;) There's a reason why Nissan gave the small farts the SRs and the bigger boys VG/RB, but I guess maybe the Ceffy didn't deserve it. *rolleyes* I'm just biased against V8s, most of 'em can't rev for shyt, ie. GM pushrods. :x I can't say no to a V10 E60 M5 though. :P

Pls lar, don't be so quick to judge and make lame comments like "i think u googled on these info dude....." or "you did google that out didn't u..... :emoticon_U:????." The Internet is a bloody useful resource, if you think you're too smart for Google then I pity your ignorance because it's hardly restricted to a bunch of young "omg i just got my first turbo woot got booooooooosttt?" opinionated know-it-all punks on ZTH and howstuffworks. :emoticon_U: We're here to share and learn, not be some uptight b*stard who thinks he's so leet and can start putting others down. You may have been right about SR20s but even that doesn't justify your remark. Woooooot another keyboard warrior for teh win. :emoticon_U:

woh woh woh, hold your horses there buddy, don't make it too personal on my comment....

ok to start with your first comment on why 300whp is easy 'cause of these so called "peanut" mods of yours, it's because you are looking at it the wrong way....ehm....i mean the wrong mods. yes i know that those kinds of mods are easy and considered "cheap" (except for the port+polish mod), those kinds of mods WON'T take an RB20det more than 300whp, because of one very basic thing, the stock AFM.....it won't stand past 300whp, the max it can go i think is 290++ whp.....and you can't simply change that, u will need a good piggyback ECU to tune your AF ratios in order to get a smooth curve out of you dynochart (and also your engine as well), so if u r getting a good piggyback (SAFC is not considered as a good piggyback, it will do the work, but not in a perfect way), u will need larger injectors.....and the list goes on.....and because of that, u will need more and more cash, that's the reason why I said 290whp is achieveable in a stock RB20 engine with bigger cc injectors and a bigger turbo, with higher boost of course.....it's the AFM that's limiting the engine

and about the RB26dett, Nissan HAS to restrict it's power to 280BHP, because of the government, i assume u know that, now there's no restrictions any more and the manufacturers can go over 280bhp......and the STOCK STANDARD RB26dett with STOCK TURBOS can go 400bhp if u boost it up a little bit, and it won't have any problems with it, the stock injectors can handle it fairly easy....

but i agree with you because the weight of my car and of course "the engine" is heavier than a 4 cyl, and because it is only 2.0, there WILL be differences comparing to 2 door sports cars/sedans

and pls, don't get too personal lah....it is only a debate/comment/suggestion/assumption.........cheers!!!:_:

 

[stormlcc]

Woot
RB20DET for 300whp ?
Woot
i love to see a stock RB20DET with Stock turbo push 300whp
but quoting RWKW err more like you from or based from aussie
how much 300 RWKW in RWHP ?

err Nissan Give a big fart on RB20DET i think err since R33 rite ?
i think R34 and R33 all toward to RB25DET not RB20DET rite ?
i am not sure

SR was still under production till err 01 ? no sure
i think RB also same
now both RB and SR, nissan give a big fart on it
so it more like pure bollock engine
else why not they continue it like 4G63 ? err what is subaru engine code aa ?
i heard also the new GTR no more RB.. why aa ?

emm or nissan realise it pure bollock engine and decide to stop it and make VQ ?
i think that time when the what gwai low CEO join and restructure it rite since it nearly went to bankcrupcy
not sure..
care to help ?

i lazy to dig google..

it is IMPOSSIBLE for a RB20det with stock turbo to go 300whp, the stock turbos won't stand high boosting, and even WITH high boost, the engine won't achieve near to 250whp, and EVEN with high boost and u DID achieve 250whp, your turbine fins will pecah before u can even take a look at how many horse power you gain.......haha:confused_smile:

well, nissan stopped producing the RBs 'cause it is the past already, V6 and V8 are the future, manufacturers MUST change their technology to better ones, 'cause if they don't, they'll sure go bankrupt........

 

[BabyGodzillaGTi-R]

Mind over matter.
Trying to dose a fire b4 it becomes an apocalypse kenna backfired.
Enam throttle Rb20 ah we're talking about?

Anyway i thought 1 of the benefits of having more cylinders is because u've a bigger valve area. Just my 2cents.

 

[BabyGodzillaGTi-R]

Mind over matter.
Trying to dose a fire b4 it becomes an apocalypse kenna backfired.
Enam throttle Rb20 ah we're talking about?

Anyway i thought 1 of the benefits of having more cylinders is because u've a bigger valve area. Just my 2cents.

 

[skyther]

lol I think you misunderstood me. Those mods are what you would do to achieve the extra 10 HP needed to get from 290 to 300, not to go from stock to 300. Actually I wouldn't even consider port and polish a "mod", just as I wouldn't call reconditioning cylinder walls on a block a mod, but that's another story.

Somehow I don't think you understand how piggybacks work.

Upgrading an AFM is good for 2 things.

1) A larger AFM will allow a larger inlet size, hence increasing the volume and flow of air that the intake will be capable of.

2) An AFM that gives a higher resolution output reading, providing more accurate A/F ratio readings to the ECU increasing tuning flexibility.

It doesn't provide a physical bottleneck where the AFM says "oh noes, we're making 3xxHP so we better go into limp home mode," but what may do is place a limitation on your ability to achieve a better tune to the point where it's maxed out the efficiency of the tune. Back to my earlier post, pick *any* few of those mods and they should gain you that extra 10HP to reach the 300 mark easily.

Now the AFM of choice for an upgrade to most Nissan engines would be the Z32s or Q45s. These AFMs provide different output readings compared to what the RB20 ECU is used to, so this is where the role of the aftermarket ECU or piggyback comes in. What a piggyback does is it alters the readings provided by the AFM to fool the ECU to reach the desired tuning. Stock Nissan tuning AFAIK always run slightly rich at high RPMs to avoid detonation, so say if you tune a SAFC to run slightly leaner through the same range it would alter the AFM reading by telling the ECU that there's slightly less air than what's actually there, tricking the ECU into running lean... in a nutshell that's basically how it works. I have an AFC, not the apexi one but some pariah brand, good for a small power increase but hardly close to an aftermarket ECU. There are better piggybacks out there than just the SAFC, but none of them will compare to a standalone ECU. There is a sh*t load that you can't do with a piggyback, especially when you throw aftermarket cams into the equation.

As per my previous post, I did say that Nissan does slightly overengineer their motors. It's not about what your injectors can handle lol.

It is always during a critical moment that an engine will f*ck up. The motor is redlining it's nuts off at 8k RPM, the turbo is making peak boost, the pistons, rods, crankshaft and valvetrain are fully stressed out.

Then something happens.

The EBC lets out a boost surge (which unfortunately happens more frequently than we'd like). Boost spikes from 20 to 25psi for just a millisecond. A/F ratios are suddenly unbalanced, going overly lean. The ECU (and piggyback) struggles to maintain balance by attempting to enrich the mixture. The injectors attempt to squirt more fuel...

Uh oh. The injectors are maxed.

*Ping ping ping ping ping BANG* roflmao congratulations you just blew your gasket into pieces. :_:

But... wtf? It was running fine at max boost with ~360hp during the dyno run! Suprise suprise, conditions on a dyno are hardly the same as proper road conditions. If as according to you GT-R injectors are only capable with 400hp reliably (with some spare overhead), how do you figure that 300cc injectors are sufficient for 360hp at the fly?

Seriously dude, I think you need to ask your mechanic how it all works together before you start commenting that oh noes you need AFM blah blah while making up placebo reasons as to why you need one. The AFM is hardly a bottleneck at 290hp, although you'd are partially right in the sense that it would let you get there easier.

 

[f8.]

rofl ok lah, i'll be nice. Actually I'm a noob wif cars but some of your points are pure BS.

*summons the power of Google*

-zip-

It's common knowledge that 6 cylinders are smoother + make more torque than 4 bangers, go ask Proton why they launched a Perdana V6 with the same displacement as the old one. :angel_smile:

-zip-

I suggest we find out from Perdana modders which is faster, Perdana V6 with 4G63 VR4 swap or with the 2L V6 Eterna TT.

Take an extreme modded Perdana 4G63 vs an extreme modded Perdana Eterna TT and find out which is quicker.

Repeat for mild/stock examples of both and compare again too.

V6 is smoother than inline4 yes. More torque for same displacement I won't be so certain.