Hmm .. would it not possible to custom a roll cage to be hidden within the ABC pillars?Bro. Izso, Bar in engine probably can hide. Fit Roll cage, you know who get shot first.....hhahhahaha
4g15(Wira) covert 4g18 stroker kit
- Thread starter Hadi17
- Start date
4G15 Wira not C97 chassis?
Just because of the weakness in chassis, the whole engine is wasted... Too bad... I wonder if the owner manage to source original Mitsubishi chassis like those of CA4A Mirage Cyborg or Mirage Asti, will these chassis be tougher than then C99?4G93 NA mods with some cusco bars here and there. This was when UltraRacing was still new in the market. Spot welded chassis, solid mounts and stripped. On wheel it was over 300bhp+ and even with LSD it was twitchy. I never drove it because the owner was relatively short. Had a full bucket with modded brackets to cater for his height. As for the mod list, it was extensive to put it mildly. Without the standalone the idle speed was 1k-2k-1k-2k-1kGod knows how he drove it like that for the time without the standalone.
The funniest story about this car was his bumper canards were installed at an overly aggressive angle and during sepang, the front bumper snapped off. The fella claims over "downforce" the front
Anyway in the end car was scrapped I think, or was it sold? The front cross member area had tears (don't know the actual name of the area but it was near there) and everytime the fella revved can physically see that tear flexing. If he did sell the car, I pity the new owner. It would only be a matter of time before the car becomes condemned. Hopefully the new owner was smart enough to demod and use normal mounts. Too much stress to the chassis la I think.
Referring to the attached picture of Proton Suprima. Note that some bars align to the pillars.No place to hide....
I don't mean a full fledged roll cage with tubular bars but perhaps modify a bit using flatter, slimmer tensile ones which can later be hidden with the pillars' plastic covers. Roof has ample space to add tubular ones. It's a bit like reinforcing all those pillars and connecting each to the strengthened roof. Should act similar to a light duty roll cage. Likely won't need to wear a helmet driving this.
He He .. with those bars added, car will be heavier. No more pickup :damnmate:
Edit:
LOL .. don't mind me. After re-reading this post, I feel as though my head got knocked on one of those bars. :stupid:
Attachments
Last edited:
the strongest proton chassis was the one and only version Satria GTi R3 edition...true double spotweld (i think it was more like triple spotweld on some area)If going illegal, why stop and spot weld, add iron bar and strengthen.....lol
---------- Post added at 04:56 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:55 PM ----------
The Rally one or street one......Rally sure crack loh.....hhahhahahhah
i use fender bar+4point strut bar....but didnt believe much on the undercarriage bar especially the one hooked to the already sturdy engine subframe....Thanks for sharing.
Still we shouldn't place all the blame on the engine upgrade. With more power available, the desire to speed increases
The driver behind the wheel has to share some of the blame. Chassis damage results from aggressive driving. Stuff like extreme corner Gs or high speeds over undulated surfaces. The chassis is severely flexed. Over time, this flex translates to permanent damage.
yeah, I feel the fender bars are particularly important. Mind sharing what other steps you took to stiffen the car? I recently autofoamed my side sills. Car is so much nicer to ride in now.
autofoam is good start...u can upgrade using the track package....
Referring to the attached picture of Proton Suprima. Note that some bars align to the pillars.
I don't mean a full fledged roll cage with tubular bars but perhaps modify a bit using flatter, slimmer tensile ones which can later be hidden with the pillars' plastic covers. Roof has ample space to add tubular ones. It's a bit like reinforcing all those pillars and connecting each to the strengthened roof. Should act similar to a light duty roll cage. Likely won't need to wear a helmet driving this.
He He .. with those bars added, car will be heavier. No more pickup :damnmate:
Edit:
LOL .. don't mind me. After re-reading this post, I feel as though my head got knocked on one of those bars. :stupid:
that would be just impossible.....from my experience with rollcage....my only suggestion is u custom order whole rollcage set from chrome-moly material using 1"-1.5" diameter tube pipe and as close as possible to a pillar, b pillar and across floor at b-pillar fully welded along with sturdy base plate at all 4 point to the floor as well as retaining plate placed at strategic spot and secure using bolt....and final job to mask all of that via whole interior panel wrap in fabric (means cut stock interior panel to clear the rollcage and then wrap the whole area with interior fabric.... (floor can do with similar pattern of floor carpet and wrap around those cage to hide the obvious....
thats the best we could do if u really want rollcage and remain stealth from outside....but whoever steps inside your car definately will notice that....
Probably could if you had the budget. But for such an old car, would the cost be justified?
Erkkkk.... 97? Erm. You're probably right. I just googled and there's no such thing as 91. Hehehe.. Paiseh.
And stronger than c99? C99 if not mistaken is the same as the original Evo 1 chassis. Ok what. Anyway, I dunno what happened to the car.
I think will strengthen slightly only.Referring to the attached picture of Proton Suprima. Note that some bars align to the pillars.
I don't mean a full fledged roll cage with tubular bars but perhaps modify a bit using flatter, slimmer tensile ones which can later be hidden with the pillars' plastic covers. Roof has ample space to add tubular ones. It's a bit like reinforcing all those pillars and connecting each to the strengthened roof. Should act similar to a light duty roll cage. Likely won't need to wear a helmet driving this.
He He .. with those bars added, car will be heavier. No more pickup :damnmate:
Edit:
LOL .. don't mind me. After re-reading this post, I feel as though my head got knocked on one of those bars. :stupid:
Looking at the pic you posted, that even have a center 6 point bar to take direct impact....
No lah. Don't intend to get roll cage. Merely postulating a wild theory.
Apart from skipping the beam under the front seats and those in the roof, I think all other places progressively foamed the past few months. Originally started as a soundproofing project. Midway got detoured to improving handling. So far, I am satisfied with the overall result.
On this C99, I have fender bars, 2pt alloy front strut bar & Stiff Rings installed front/rear. Planning to upgrade the rear ARB. This car doesn't go on track. So no need for 23mm unit. Indecisive whether to get 16 or 19mm units. Or should I stick with the stock ARB? Any suggestions? The taman where I reside has numerous road humps. Have to consider the comfort factor. I occasionally drive to Genting. Upgrading the ARB will help address understeer. Recently the Genting road added many new thickish lines (speedbreakers). The drive up was okay but the Wira didn't enjoy bouncing over them on the way down. Not sure if foaming the side sills will help. Will find out on my next trip.
@^pomen_GTR^, I noticed you didn't mention rear tower strut bar. Does it mean you find them 'not that useful'? I am contemplating it but still unsure if I want to sacrifice boot space. Any feedback on this will be greatly appreciated.
Yalor, this is the main reason holding me back from overdoing my car. Car is already 19 years old. Have a Proton Preve for outstation trips. Over the past 2.5 years, the Wira having a manual transmission wasn't utilised much. After getting used to the Preve, each time I drive the Wira I find the road noise/drone intolerable. Which was what led to the soundproofing project. After making the recent changes, it is now a much nicer ride. Now backside itchy already.
Come to think of it. If I had made these changes before buying the Preve, I might not have made the purchase. :hmmmm: Weighing less, the Wira traverses road humps better. Definitely zippier than the Preve. Currently also thinking of getting FTuned coilovers but that's another dilemma. After last round of autofoam, I'm happy with the current ride. Worried if the coilovers will ruin the honeymoon. Normally I would wait a few months; get used to the autofoam before deciding if I need coilovers but GST (Gomen Suka Tax) is coming. If I buy now, it will be cheaper. Any thoughts gentlemen?
---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:25 PM ----------
Agreed .. but then again even with proper roll cage if the car turns turtle, without 4pt harness seat belt, I think we'll still suffer neck injuries.I think will strengthen slightly only.
Looking at the pic you posted, that even have a center 6 point bar to take direct impact....
issuzark
500 RPM
C99 if same with Evo 1 then shouldn't have issues ripping at 300bhp? Unless because its FWD so the stress isn't distributed evenly.
That is why need to do complete mod, not half way.....hhahahhahaha
---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:26 PM ----------
Can be too. 4WD splits the power to all wheels. 2WD only front wheel gets all the power....C99 if same with Evo 1 then shouldn't have issues ripping at 300bhp? Unless because its FWD so the stress isn't distributed evenly.
issuzark
500 RPM
Just a thought. How well does those ciplak 4 point harnesses work compared to stock seatbelts?That is why need to do complete mod, not half way.....hhahahhahaha
---------- Post added at 07:27 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 07:26 PM ----------
Can be too. 4WD splits the power to all wheels. 2WD only front wheel gets all the power....
You and Chew already pointed it out. 4WD vs 2WD. AWD vs FWD. Very different physics man.C99 if same with Evo 1 then shouldn't have issues ripping at 300bhp? Unless because its FWD so the stress isn't distributed evenly.
Why would you bother. Harnesses need an anchor. So you'll probably gonna need to harness yourself to something like a bar at the back (which you don't have at the moment). It's fugly and overkill seriously. Get a full bucket first then only consider a harness.
Stock is 16mm la. Even if it was thinner it's not that much of a difference with 16. 19 and above will definitely be felt. But if comfort is what you're looking for, you probably don't need anymore than stock. 19mm will affect comfort to a certain extent.
As for foaming - where'd you get it done and how much? I'm going nuts with the road noise from my tyres.
Btw, speed bumps are there to make you feel uncomfortable when going over them. Which is why people slow down when they get to them. Unless you have rally suspension you're gonna feel bumps. Don't expect side still foaming to help much. Probably will have some effect but won't be significant.
It firms up the rear and changes the characteristics of the rear grip. But if you're going to go to fTuned suspension then don't bother. If you're going to keep stock suspension then you'll feel it. Whether it's worth the boot sacrifice, depends on how hard you drive and how often you drive it hard. You don't need it for daily driving.
Expect extreme differences in comfort levels with coilovers. Regardless of what people tell you - stock is the most comfortable setting. Coilovers will stiffen any ride regardless of what spring rates you chose. But if you're like me and get used to it, soft and spongy suspension is very meh for me. I prefer firm and predictable suspension over comfort. I hate soft and uncomfortable plus unpredictable suspension.
No lah. Don't intend to get roll cage. Merely postulating a wild theory.
Apart from skipping the beam under the front seats and those in the roof, I think all other places progressively foamed the past few months. Originally started as a soundproofing project. Midway got detoured to improving handling. So far, I am satisfied with the overall result.
On this C99, I have fender bars, 2pt alloy front strut bar & Stiff Rings installed front/rear. Planning to upgrade the rear ARB. This car doesn't go on track. So no need for 23mm unit. Indecisive whether to get 16 or 19mm units. Or should I stick with the stock ARB? Any suggestions? The taman where I reside has numerous road humps. Have to consider the comfort factor. I occasionally drive to Genting. Upgrading the ARB will help address understeer. Recently the Genting road added many new thickish lines (speedbreakers). The drive up was okay but the Wira didn't enjoy bouncing over them on the way down. Not sure if foaming the side sills will help. Will find out on my next trip.
@^pomen_GTR^, I noticed you didn't mention rear tower strut bar. Does it mean you find them 'not that useful'? I am contemplating it but still unsure if I want to sacrifice boot space. Any feedback on this will be greatly appreciated.
Yalor, this is the main reason holding me back from overdoing my car. Car is already 19 years old. Have a Proton Preve for outstation trips. Over the past 2.5 years, the Wira having a manual transmission wasn't utilised much. After getting used to the Preve, each time I drive the Wira I find the road noise/drone intolerable. Which was what led to the soundproofing project. After making the recent changes, it is now a much nicer ride. Now backside itchy already.
Come to think of it. If I had made these changes before buying the Preve, I might not have made the purchase. :hmmmm: Weighing less, the Wira traverses road humps better. Definitely zippier than the Preve. Currently also thinking of getting FTuned coilovers but that's another dilemma. After last round of autofoam, I'm happy with the current ride. Worried if the coilovers will ruin the honeymoon. Normally I would wait a few months; get used to the autofoam before deciding if I need coilovers but GST (Gomen Suka Tax) is coming. If I buy now, it will be cheaper. Any thoughts gentlemen?
---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 04:25 PM ----------
Agreed .. but then again even with proper roll cage if the car turns turtle, without 4pt harness seat belt, I think we'll still suffer neck injuries.
rear strut bar does help too...but on my daily driver/family car....i cant sacrifice the boot space.... (wife cant left home without her stuff...alot of em actually
)as for your car... i would recommend do full autofoam package and full soundproofing job (vibration damping mat).....
and then we look in to suspension department...if u already have adjustable suspension...just swap your current springs with lower spring rate and adjust the damping to suits..... (thats my theory and practical setup for daily driven car without the need sacrifice good handling for family comfort)....
both my daily driven car use adjustable suspension with massive front+rear arb size and front fender bar as well as front strut bar....but with soft adjustable spring rate....
1-satria: common spring rate usually 6k front, 4k rear...mine 4k front with 3k rear (heck if got 2.5k spring available i would choose that)
2-scooby: common spring rate usually 8k~10k front, 6k~8k front...but mine just 7k front and 5k rear....
Oh btw, pasting on sheets and sheets of sound dampening bitumen material is heavy. Very heavy. It'll affect the handling of the car for sure.
Having driven a kosong edition Wira that doesn't come with sound proofing from the factory itself, it's so so so so different compared to the premium model that has loads of sound proofing. I mean sure it's quieter but I prefer a better drive than a quieter drive. I can live with noise to some extent if the drive is entertaining.
Having driven a kosong edition Wira that doesn't come with sound proofing from the factory itself, it's so so so so different compared to the premium model that has loads of sound proofing. I mean sure it's quieter but I prefer a better drive than a quieter drive. I can live with noise to some extent if the drive is entertaining.
yeah dampening sheets/mat does increase weight....
but a good installer could do wonder with minimal sheets used....
those blindingly paste on every surface would only just result into massive weight addition but not much improvement
Perhaps another reason would be that the chassis is getting old... I think C99 might not be same with Evo 1 CD9A chassis... But perhaps it might be the same with the 4G93T Lancer GSR chassis since C99 also uses 4G93...C99 if same with Evo 1 then shouldn't have issues ripping at 300bhp? Unless because its FWD so the stress isn't distributed evenly.
BTW, did anyone know what are the differences between CD9A chassis in Evo 1 with CE9A chassis in Evo 2 and 3? Different chassis strength only?
issuzark
500 RPM
I do have a room bar at the back now.
Thought of it at first. But probably not willing to spend on a ciplak one now, especially because I would need to change my seats as well.
the only middle room bar i approve is the one that have atleast 3point or 4point to be hooked to the car floor/chassis.....I do have a room bar at the back now.
if just 2 point it would simplye folded into 2 on impact
btw...i forgot to comments on the fake 4point safety harness....its just the buckle quality in question since the belt fabric still strong enough to withstand accident impacts
issuzark
500 RPM
Not sure if UR makes a 3/4 point room bar for Wiras. I only got the 2 point one. So technically if the buckle is good I'm safe?the only middle room bar i approve is the one that have atleast 3point or 4point to be hooked to the car floor/chassis.....
if just 2 point it would simplye folded into 2 on impact
btw...i forgot to comments on the fake 4point safety harness....its just the buckle quality in question since the belt fabric still strong enough to withstand accident impacts
My wira is stock 12mm. Measured it a few days ago. The Preve's rear ARB was previously uprated to UR 19mm unit. Feels firmer but not too uncomfortable. Preve is a much bigger car. Hence I wonder what 19mm will do for the Wira.
This references Genting's recently added speedbreakers. I did slow down for them. Even at slow speed, the car bounces over them.
Thank you. :top: Earlier on, I was in a dilemma whether to get FTuned coilovers. Earlier today, one of the rear arbs was going 'nyek nyek'. That coupled with your above comment sealed the deal. Will decide on rear ARB's size after consulting Farouk. BTW, stock 1.8 not as spongy as other Wiras.
LOL .. I certainly can relate to that....i cant sacrifice the boot space.... (wife cant left home without her stuff...alot of em actually
Thank you. I think I will do just that. I don't know what the stock spring rates are for a Wira 1.8EXI but I suspect both front/rear are in the 3-4K region. Your recommendation for front 4, rear 3 sounds right.
Foaming on the Wira was done at Welgan's shop - GA Auto SoundWorks, located at Wangsa Melawati. Welgan used to work for KL Auto. Which car is this for? I know you have a Sylphy. I thought Nissan's have pretty good SP. By road noise, do you mean tyre noise OR the drone transmitted from the undercarriage and other hollow body beams from road vibrations?
If tyre noise, then you need SP. Have you not treated the wheelwell cover (aka banana leaf) with spray-on rubber? I believe you are acquainted with Kheng Siong. You can get some foam from him to stuff into the fender.
If drone, then you need foaming. My wira used to have a terrible drone. When on the highway, you can hear "wooong wooong" sound in the cabin. Made it hard to talk to the other occupants. Foaming just the undercarriage addressed a large part of it. Thanks to your write-up on Rigid Collars, I had Stiff Rings installed. Won't say it's totally gone but I barely notice the drone now. Then again, each person's noise tolerance can be subjective.
Hey, if you are interested you can come over to look at the car. I believe you live nearby Cheras. Can check out what foaming does to the vehicle and at the same time, see if suspension is that spongy :)
I have already foamed my undercarriage, ABC pillars. The side sills were done with the harder track foam.
As for SP, I DIY most of it. Hood, trunk, doors, floor and roof. Unless you are very much into ICE, IMO the floor can be skipped. Floor has plenty of ridges/ribs. Plenty stiff enough. For a while, I drove around with the carpets stripped. With or without carpets, the noise level was about the same. At most, if your floor is transmitting some vibration to your feet, get some soft underlay for it. Did the roof not because of noise. Was because it was akin an oven in the afternoon. When I had my roof replaced years ago, I think they left out most of the older insulation. I can get into the car and drive to my destination which is 30 minutes away. By the time I get there, car was still hot. You wont want to be caught in a jam.
No need for expensive or heavy SP materials for the roof. Can use the cheaper Insuflex. Fixing the roof and doors will block out a huge portion of our Malaysian heat.
issuzark
500 RPM
Parakey, 19mm for rear arb will make you feel stable. My wila previously did not have a rear arb, added one to it.
As for the speedbreakers on genting, i was bouncing all the way even though I tried to slow down. That's probably the last time I'll go up there for touge.
Also, there's someone who does autofoam at Wangsa Melawati? That's actually quite near my place.
As for the speedbreakers on genting, i was bouncing all the way even though I tried to slow down. That's probably the last time I'll go up there for touge.
Also, there's someone who does autofoam at Wangsa Melawati? That's actually quite near my place.
Waiting to see how much difference FTuned makes to the handling. May have to adjust arb sizing.
Here's a link to their facebook page. There's a map there. >Also, there's someone who does autofoam at Wangsa Melawati? That's actually quite near my place.
https://www.facebook.com/GaAutoSoundworksAccessoriesEnt?pnref=lhc
Since your's is a wira, may I suggest looking into Stiff Rings as well .. but get just the front set.
issuzark
500 RPM
Got Hardtech chassis alignment kit. It's not bad! So you plan to change your suspension first before touching the rear arb?
That's another thing. A harness setup with stock seats looks absolutely ridiculous.I do have a room bar at the back now.
Ah.. speedbreakers. Hate those things. Even with stock suspension you'll feel it. I don't think you can do anything about these other than have ultra comfortable suspension like those in Mercs, but even that will feel speedbreakers since they are there for that specific reason.
12mm only? Oh ok. I thought stock was 14/16mm. My Wira being an auto had no ARB. Putting in stock ARB from a GTI made a very minimal difference for me. It was when i uprated to 19mm then suddenly everything stiffened up in the rear. Made a very noticeable difference. Made the rear passengers jump a lot more too. But screw them, I had those bars for handling.
In case anyone misunderstood my earlier sentence, I meant to say "forget the rear tower strut bar if you are going to go ftuned coilovers". I didn't mean to forget ftuned coilovers because I think they are bad or something. I don't think they are bad. The founders were the same people who designed the R3 suspension and those boffins know their stuff. I haven't personally used their product before so that's all I can comment about ftuned.
I didn't know Kheng Siong was selling foam. And you're right, the Sylphy has very good NVH. But that was when it was on 195/60/15 Yokohama Decimal dB tyres. Now that I'm using 215/45/17 the tyre drone is killing me. Will get in touch with KS and see what he can do about helping. The sound proofing is already done in the wheel arches of my Sylphy and it comes stock with the car. I don't want to do anymore than what's already there. I definitely don't want to add extra weight to an already heavy car with all that soundproofing material. We'll see how it goes.
Sounds like a plan. Why not? Whereabouts do you stay? Let's PM. I'm curious to know about pricing of foaming.
He already has the Racetech's Chassis Alignment Kit, which is technically what Stiff Ring copied from.
---------- Post added at 08:25 AM ---------- 6 hour anti-bump limit - Previous post was at 08:25 AM ----------
Hardtech?
The Marketplace Latest
The Marketplace Top Posts
-
Top Secret Nissan R35 GTR GTR35
- Started by aycy
- Cars for sale
Recent Posts
-
Review: 2023 Toyota Vios 1.5G
- Started by Tom
- News and Features
-
Satria GTI or Normal Satria
- Started by deveshwhat
- Car Talk
-
Honda civic fd2 with k20z2 engine...
- Started by Soroosh-ab
- Honda
Random Post Every 5 Minutes
Enjoying Zerotohundred?
Log-in for an ad-less experience