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Wire tucking then my Knock sensor broke off.... need clarification

Discussion in 'Honda' started by D-IV, Nov 2, 2008.

  1. D-IV

    D-IV 15 Year | Platinum

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    I was in the process to do some wire tuck last time and accidentally broke my knock sensor, coz i was removing all the wires from my engine bay.. ofcourse its throwing a CEL now. Question, when the CEL lights up for the KS, will the ignition timing get retarded automatically after the CEL comes on? or it will just not read any knock and not do anything with the ignition timing. I sold off my ultimate so i can't get any data outta this. Someone clarify this for me please....

    Oh yeah, here's a few pics...

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    Now the good part....

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    ADDED:Oh yeah, some people will actually spot something wrong in the picture. Don't bother asking me why hahhaa... i'm just too embarassed to answer it hahaha...
     
    #1 D-IV, Nov 2, 2008
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2008
  2. hattech-v

    hattech-v Senior Member
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    nice mounting bracket u have there... :biggrin:
    just get the chip with knock sensor disable or replace with new knock sensor...
    i'm not sure whats the reading for the ignition if u enable but running without it...
    hondata can read it... or crome with datalog...
     
  3. D-IV

    D-IV 15 Year | Platinum

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    I asked my friend to search one for me already. Shut up about the bracket.. I knew people were gonna notice that haha.... its not there anymore ok... it was just temporarily put there... :thefinger:

    Well, question still stands whether there will be any changes to the ignition timing. I know the quick way is to either replace the knock sensor or disable it by the ECU... I was just curious on what would happen if its at its current state. I can't find a clear cut answer on this...
     
  4. hattech-v

    hattech-v Senior Member
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    i think most proly it will retard the ignition to make it safe...
    try to drive ur car without knock sensor n cel on.. u'll feel ur car underpower... or semput...
     
  5. D-IV

    D-IV 15 Year | Platinum

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    Thats my concern, the car didn't feel sluggish at all. Power seems about right the way it should be. No hesitation at all throughout the rev range...
     
  6. shiroitenshi

    shiroitenshi Senior Member
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    the knock sensor throwing a cel shouldn't be any different than the cel thrown during a speed sensor failure.

    At least that's what I experienced as well.

    except with a speed sensor failure.. no VTEC.
     
  7. D-IV

    D-IV 15 Year | Platinum

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    Yeah, i guess so. I'm gonna order a replacement set soon anyway. The KS had to break at a wrong timing sigh~...
     
  8. shiroitenshi

    shiroitenshi Senior Member
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    You can get it from many places, some later gen of B20Bs have KS by default, though different colour, it's still a 5V sensor, so can be used, and there's many people who's using ECUs without the knock board, so you can get the sensor off them from their blocks, if they don't mind, since it's not like it's usable without the knock board anyway.

    Anyway, how did you do your wire tuck?

    Did you hide them under the fenders, or just under the two main rails?

    I'm thinking of doing the former, but other mods take precedence.

    Did you shorten them (cut and solder) or just 'creatively' route them?

    I still haven't done wire tucking on mine yet, because I'm contemplating on some other mods, so exposed wiring is better... for now.

    So div, that's your car? B16A, or with B18? (the intake suggests B16A, but block swaps are also common now)
     
    #8 shiroitenshi, Nov 14, 2008
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2008
  9. D-IV

    D-IV 15 Year | Platinum

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    On the left side of the car, the A/C and headlight wires were tucked under the fender, its the same for the right side for the headlights, fog lights and radiator fan. For the injector wire harness, i had to seperate them from the main engine harness by depinning it and grounding it elsewhere on another pin. There was a couple of wires that needs extending because according to my reference from honda-tech, they didn't have to do it because they're left hand driven but for right hand driven cars, it had to be done. Starter wire, grounding, battery cable had to be soldered and extended and some other wires that i can't remember. Main engine harness were combined together to go through the firewall hole that i made...

    Yes thats my B16a, pretty much stock apart from type R cams. I don't beat the car that much nowadays. I sold off my high comp 18C piston and now budgeting for a low comp piston hehe... you know where i'm going ....:smokin:

    The thing about wire tuck is, it gets harder to trace it if it isn't done properly. Its nice to look at a clean engine bay but troubleshooting is easier with the wires here and there...
     
  10. shiroitenshi

    shiroitenshi Senior Member
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    Nice job for yours, but for mine, after looking at chasebays, I figured it'll be nice if I used weatherpack connectors, or mil-spec connectors, but that highly depends on the cost.

    but locally for now, I can't get proper wire gauges I wanted, so it's really a hindrance to start a wire tuck. I guess you don't have such problems.

    Maybe that B20B with no aircond is a better candidate, but as with mods that take spare time, it's not really something that's an immediate concern.
     
    #10 shiroitenshi, Nov 15, 2008
    Last edited: Nov 15, 2008
  11. D-IV

    D-IV 15 Year | Platinum

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    Thanks for the compliment.

    Yeah its true, this procedure really takes time. It took me close to 3 weeks to get things done and thats only 90% of it at that time. I'm still yet to clear up some stuff. And i was actually dead bored during the puasa festive coz for the first 2 weeks my time was occupied with transplanting an engine to another car at my in-law's place and then the next 2 weeks was dead bored so i just started it to kill my time after work...
     

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